a journey to-第13节
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Our reception exceeded our expectations。 We found nothing but
civility； elegance； and plenty。 After the usual refreshments； and
the usual conversation； the evening came upon us。 The carpet was
then rolled off the floor； the musician was called； and the whole
company was invited to dance； nor did ever fairies trip with
greater alacrity。 The general air of festivity； which predominated
in this place； so far remote from all those regions which the mind
has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure； struck
the imagination with a delightful surprise； analogous to that which
is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light。
When it was time to sup； the dance ceased； and six and thirty
persons sat down to two tables in the same room。 After supper the
ladies sung Erse songs； to which I listened as an English audience
to an Italian opera； delighted with the sound of words which I did
not understand。
I inquired the subjects of the songs； and was told of one； that it
was a love song； and of another； that it was a farewell composed by
one of the Islanders that was going； in this epidemical fury of
emigration； to seek his fortune in America。 What sentiments would
arise； on such an occasion； in the heart of one who had not been
taught to lament by precedent； I should gladly have known； but the
lady； by whom I sat； thought herself not equal to the work of
translating。
Mr。 Macleod is the proprietor of the islands of Raasay； Rona； and
Fladda； and possesses an extensive district in Sky。 The estate has
not； during four hundred years； gained or lost a single acre。 He
acknowledges Macleod of Dunvegan as his chief； though his ancestors
have formerly disputed the pre…eminence。
One of the old Highland alliances has continued for two hundred
years； and is still subsisting between Macleod of Raasay and
Macdonald of Sky； in consequence of which； the survivor always
inherits the arms of the deceased； a natural memorial of military
friendship。 At the death of the late Sir James Macdonald； his
sword was delivered to the present laird of Raasay。
The family of Raasay consists of the laird； the lady； three sons
and ten daughters。 For the sons there is a tutor in the house； and
the lady is said to be very skilful and diligent in the education
of her girls。 More gentleness of manners； or a more pleasing
appearance of domestick society； is not found in the most polished
countries。
Raasay is the only inhabited island in Mr。 Macleod's possession。
Rona and Fladda afford only pasture for cattle； of which one
hundred and sixty winter in Rona； under the superintendence of a
solitary herdsman。
The length of Raasay is； by computation； fifteen miles； and the
breadth two。 These countries have never been measured； and the
computation by miles is negligent and arbitrary。 We observed in
travelling； that the nominal and real distance of places had very
little relation to each other。 Raasay probably contains near a
hundred square miles。 It affords not much ground； notwithstanding
its extent； either for tillage； or pasture； for it is rough； rocky；
and barren。 The cattle often perish by falling from the
precipices。 It is like the other islands； I think； generally naked
of shade； but it is naked by neglect； for the laird has an orchard；
and very large forest trees grow about his house。 Like other hilly
countries it has many rivulets。 One of the brooks turns a corn…
mill； and at least one produces trouts。
In the streams or fresh lakes of the Islands； I have never heard of
any other fish than trouts and eels。 The trouts； which I have
seen； are not large； the colour of their flesh is tinged as in
England。 Of their eels I can give no account； having never tasted
them； for I believe they are not considered as wholesome food。
It is not very easy to fix the principles upon which mankind have
agreed to eat some animals； and reject others； and as the principle
is not evident； it is not uniform。 That which is selected as
delicate in one country； is by its neighbours abhorred as
loathsome。 The Neapolitans lately refused to eat potatoes in a
famine。 An Englishman is not easily persuaded to dine on snails
with an Italian； on frogs with a Frenchman； or on horseflesh with a
Tartar。 The vulgar inhabitants of Sky； I know not whether of the
other islands； have not only eels； but pork and bacon in
abhorrence； and accordingly I never saw a hog in the Hebrides；
except one at Dunvegan。
Raasay has wild fowl in abundance； but neither deer； hares； nor
rabbits。 Why it has them not； might be asked； but that of such
questions there is no end。 Why does any nation want what it might
have？ Why are not spices transplanted to America？ Why does tea
continue to be brought from China？ Life improves but by slow
degrees； and much in every place is yet to do。 Attempts have been
made to raise roebucks in Raasay； but without effect。 The young
ones it is extremely difficult to rear； and the old can very seldom
be taken alive。
Hares and rabbits might be more easily obtained。 That they have
few or none of either in Sky； they impute to the ravage of the
foxes； and have therefore set； for some years past； a price upon
their heads； which； as the number was diminished； has been
gradually raised； from three shillings and sixpence to a guinea； a
sum so great in this part of the world； that； in a short time； Sky
may be as free from foxes； as England from wolves。 The fund for
these rewards is a tax of sixpence in the pound； imposed by the
farmers on themselves； and said to be paid with great willingness。
The beasts of prey in the Islands are foxes； otters； and weasels。
The foxes are bigger than those of England； but the otters exceed
ours in a far greater proportion。 I saw one at Armidel； of a size
much beyond that which I supposed them ever to attain； and Mr。
Maclean； the heir of Col； a man of middle stature； informed me that
he once shot an otter； of which the tail reached the ground； when
he held up the head to a level with his own。 I expected the otter
to have a foot particularly formed for the art of swimming； but
upon examination； I did not find it differing much from that of a
spaniel。 As he preys in the sea； he does little visible mischief；
and is killed only for his fur。 White otters are sometimes seen。
In Raasay they might have hares and rabbits； for they have no
foxes。 Some depredations； such as were never made before； have
caused a suspicion that a fox has been lately landed in the Island
by spite or wantonness。 This imaginary stranger has never yet been
seen； and therefore； perhaps； the mischief was done by some other
animal。 It is not likely that a creature so ungentle； whose head
could have been sold in Sky for a guinea； should be kept alive only
to gratify the malice of sending him to prey upon a neighbour： and
the passage from Sky is wider than a fox would venture to swim；
unless he were chased by dogs into the sea； and perhaps than his
strength would enable him to cross。 How beasts of prey came into
any islands is not easy to guess。 In cold countries they take
advantage of hard winters； and travel over the ice： but this is a
very scanty solution； for they are found where they have no
discoverable means of coming。
The corn of this island is but little。 I saw the harvest of a
small field。 The women reaped the Corn； and the men bound up the
sheaves。 The strokes of the sickle were timed by the modulation of
the harvest song； in which all their voices were united。 They
accompany in the Highlands every action； which can be done in equal
time； with an appropriated strain； which has； they say； not much
meaning； but its effects are regularity and cheerfulness。 The
ancient proceleusmatick song； by which the rowers of gallies were
animated； may be supposed to have been of this kind。 There is now
an oar…song used by the Hebridians。
The ground of Raasay seems fitter for cattle than for corn； and of
black cattle I suppose the number is very great。 The Laird himself
keeps a herd of four hundred； one hundred of which are annually
sold。 Of an extensive domain； which he holds in his own hands； he
considers the sale of cattle as repaying him the rent； and supports
the plenty of a very liberal table with the remaining product。
Raasay is supposed to have been very long inhabited。 On one side
of it they show caves； into which the rude nations of the first
ages retreated from the weather。 These dreary vaults might have
had other uses。 There is still a cavity near the house called the
oar…cave； in which the seamen； after one of those piratical
expeditions； which in rougher times were very frequent； used； as
tradition tells； to hide their oars。 This hollow was near the sea；
that nothing so necessary might be far to be fetched； and it was
secret； that enemies； if they landed； could find nothing。 Yet it
is not very evident of what use it was to hide their oars from
those； who； if they were masters of the coast； could take away
their boats。
A proof much stronger of the distance at which the first possessors
of this island lived from the present time； is afforded by the
stone heads of arrows whic
