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trade is encouraged。  Each neighbouring town and village 〃dumps〃 its
load of picturesque merry…makers。

It is in these smaller towns that the spirit of King Carnival finds
happiest expression。  Almost every third inhabitant takes part in the
fun。  In Brussels and the larger towns the thing appears ridiculous。
A few hundred maskers force their way with difficulty through
thousands of dull…clad spectators; looking like a Spanish river in
the summer time; a feeble stream; dribbling through acres of muddy
bank。  At Charleroi; the centre of the Belgian Black Country; the
chief feature of the Carnival is the dancing of the children。  A
space is specially roped off for them。

If by chance the sun is kind enough to shine; the sight is a pretty
one。  How they love the dressing up and the acting; these small
mites!  One young hussyshe could hardly have been more than ten
was gotten up as a haughty young lady。  Maybe some elder sister had
served as a model。  She wore a tremendous wig of flaxen hair; a hat
that I guarantee would have made its mark even at Ascot on the Cup
Day; a skirt that trailed two yards behind her; a pair of what had
once been white kid gloves; and a blue silk parasol。  Dignity!  I
have seen the offended barmaid; I have met the chorus girlnot by
appointment; please don't misunderstand me; merely as a spectatorup
the river on Sunday。  But never have I witnessed in any human being
so much hauteur to the pound avoir…dupois as was carried through the
streets of Charleroi by that small brat。  Companions of other days;
mere vulgar boys and girls; claimed acquaintance with her。  She
passed them with a stare of such utter disdain that it sent them
tumbling over one another backwards。  By the time they had recovered
themselves sufficiently to think of an old tin kettle lying handy in
the gutter she had turned the corner。

Two miserably clad urchins; unable to scrape together the few sous
necessary for the hire of a rag or two; had nevertheless determined
not to be altogether out of it。  They had managed to borrow a couple
of white blousesnot what you would understand by a white blouse;
dear Madame; a dainty thing of frills and laces; but the coarse white
sack the street sweeper wears over his clothes。  They had also
borrowed a couple of brooms。  Ridiculous little objects they looked;
the tiny head of each showing above the great white shroud as gravely
they walked; the one behind the other; sweeping the mud into the
gutter。  They also were of the Carnival; playing at being scavengers。

Another quaint sight I witnessed。  The 〃serpentin〃 is a feature of
the Belgian Carnival。  It is a strip of coloured paper; some dozen
yards long; perhaps。  You fling it as you would a lassoo; entangling
the head of some passer…by。  Naturally; the object most aimed at by
the Belgian youth is the Belgian maiden。  And; naturally also; the
maiden who finds herself most entangled is the maiden whoto use
again the language of the matrimonial advertiser〃is considered
good…looking。〃  The serpentin about her head is the 〃feather in her
cap〃 of the Belgian maiden on Carnival Day。  Coming suddenly round
the corner I almost ran into a girl。  Her back was towards me。  It
was a quiet street。  She had half a dozen of these serpentins。
Hurriedly; with trembling hands; she was twisting them round and
round her own head。  I looked at her as I passed。  She flushed
scarlet。  Poor little snub…nosed pasty…faced woman!  I wish she had
not seen me。  I could have bought sixpenny…worth; followed her; and
tormented her with them; while she would have pretended indignation
sought; discreetly; to escape from me。

Down South; where the blood flows quicker; King Carnival is; indeed;
a jolly old soul。  In Munich he reigns for six weeks; the end coming
with a mad two days revel in the streets。  During the whole of the
period; folks in ordinary; every…day costume are regarded as
curiosities; people wonder what they are up to。  From the Grafin to
the Dienstmadchen; from the Herr Professor to the 〃Piccolo;〃 as they
term the small artist that answers to our page boy; the business of
Munich is dancing; somewhere; somehow; in a fancy costume。  Every
theatre clears away the stage; every cafe crowds its chairs and
tables into corners; the very streets are cleared for dancing。
Munich goes mad。

Munich is always a little mad。  The maddest ball I ever danced at was
in Munich。  I went there with a Harvard University professor。  He had
been told what these balls were like。  Ever seeking knowledge of all
things; he determined to take the matter up for himself and examine
it。  The writer also must ever be learning。  I agreed to accompany
him。  We had not intended to dance。  Our idea was that we could be
indulgent spectators; regarding from some coign of vantage the antics
of the foolish crowd。  The professor was clad as became a professor。
Myself; I wore a simply…cut frock…coat; with trousering in French
grey。  The doorkeeper explained to us that this was a costume ball;
he was sorry; but gentlemen could only be admitted in evening dress
or in masquerade。

It was half past one in the morning。  We had sat up late on purpose;
we had gone without our dinner; we had walked two miles。  The
professor suggested pinning up the tails of his clerically…cut coat
and turning in his waistcoat。  The doorkeeper feared it would not be
quite the same thing。  Besides; my French grey trousers refused to
adapt themselves。  The doorkeeper proposed our hiring a costumea
little speculation of his own; gentlemen found it simpler sometimes;
especially married gentlemen; to hire a costume in this manner;
changing back into sober garments before returning home。  It reduced
the volume of necessary explanation。

〃Have you anything; my good man;〃 said the professor; 〃anything that
would effect a complete disguise?〃

The doorkeeper had the very thinga Chinese arrangement; with
combined mask and wig。  It fitted neatly over the head; and was
provided with a simple but ingenious piece of mechanism by means of
which much could be done with the pigtail。  Myself the doorkeeper hid
from view under the cowl of a Carmelite monk。

〃I do hope nobody recognises us;〃 whispered my friend the professor
as we entered。

I can only hope sincerely that they did not。  I do not wish to talk
about myself。  That would be egotism。  But the mystery of the
professor troubles me to this day。  A grave; earnest gentleman; the
father of a family; I saw him with my own eyes put that ridiculous
pasteboard mask over his head。  Later ona good deal later onI
found myself walking again with him through silent star…lit streets。
Where he had been in the interval; and who then was the strange
creature under the Chinaman's mask; will always remain to me an
unsolved problem。



DO WE LIE A…BED TOO LATE?



It was in Paris; many years ago; that I fell by chance into this
habit of early rising。  My nightby reasons that I need not enter
intohad been a troubled one。  Tired of the hot bed that gave no
sleep; I rose and dressed myself; crept down the creaking stairs;
experiencing the sensations of a burglar new to his profession;
unbolted the great door of the hotel; and passed out into an unknown;
silent city; bathed in a mysterious soft light。  Since then; this
strange sweet city of the dawn has never ceased to call to me。  It
may be in London; in Paris again; in Brussels; Berlin; Vienna; that I
have gone to sleep; but if perchance I wake before the returning tide
of human life has dimmed its glories with the mists and vapours of
the noisy day; I know that beyond my window blind the fairy city; as
I saw it first so many years agothis city that knows no tears; no
sorrow; through which there creeps no evil thing; this city of quiet
vistas; fading into hope; this city of far…off voices whispering
peace; this city of the dawn that still is younginvites me to talk
with it awhile before the waking hours drive it before them; and with
a sigh it passes whence it came。

It is the great city's one hour of purity; of dignity。  The very rag…
picker; groping with her filthy hands among the ashes; instead of an
object of contempt; moves from door to door an accusing Figure; her
thin soiled garments; her bent body; her scarred face; hideous with
the wounds of poverty; an eloquent indictment of smug Injustice;
sleeping behind its deaf shutters。  Yet even into her dim brain has
sunk the peace that fills for this brief hour the city。  This; too;
shall have its end; my sister!  Men and women were not born to live
on the husks that fill the pails outside the rich man's door。
Courage a little while longer; you and yours。  Your rheumy eyes once
were bright; your thin locks once soft and wavy; your poor bent back
once straight; and maybe; as they tell you in their gilded churches;
this bulging sack shall be lifted from your weary shoulders; your
misshapen limbs be straight again。  You pass not altogether unheeded
through these empty streets。  Not all the eyes of the universe are
sleeping。

The little seamstress; hurrying to her early work!  A little later
she will be one of the foolish crowd; joining in the foolish
laughter; in the coarse je

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