an autobiography-第59节
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gravit 8 idus Aprilis 1528。〃 〃Emigravit〃 only； for the true artist never dies。 Hans Sachs's grave is there toothe great Reformation poet of Luther's time。
Adam Krafft must have been a great sculptor； though his name is little known out of Nuremberg。 Perhaps his finest work is in St。 Lawrence Cathedralthe Sacramentshauslein； or the repository for the sacred wafera graceful tapering stone spire of florid Gothic open work； more than sixty feet high； which stands at the opening of the right transept。 Its construction and decoration occupied the sculptor and his two apprentices no less than five years； and all that he received for his hard labour and skilful work was 770 gulden； or about #80 sterling。 No wonder that he died in the deepest distress。 St。 Sebald's and the Frauenkirche also contain numerous specimens of his admirable work。
In the course of the following year （1843） it was necessary for me to make a journey to St。 Petersburg。 My object was to endeavour to obtain an order for a portion of the locomotives required for working the line between that city and Moscow。 The railway had been constructed under the engineership of Major Whistler； father of the well…known artist； and it was shortly about to be opened。 It appeared that the Emperor Nicholas was desirous of securing a home supply of locomotives； and that； like a wise monarch； he wished to employ his own subjects rather than foreigners in producing them。 No one could object to this。
The English locomotive manufacturers were not aware of the Emperor's intention。 When I arrived in the city I expected an order for locomotives。 The representatives of the principal English firms were there like myself； they； too； expected a share of the order。 It so happened that at the table d'hote dinner I sat near a very intelligent American； with whom I soon became intimate。 He told me that he was very well acquainted with Major Whistler； and offered to introduce me to him。 By all means！ There is no thing like friendly feelings in matters of business。
The Major gave me a frank and cordial reception； and informed me of the position of affairs。 The Emperor； he said； was desirous of training a class of Russian mechanics to supply not only the locomotives but to keep them constantly in repair。 He could not solely depend upon foreign artisans for the latter purpose。 The locomotives must be made in Russia。 The Emperor had given up the extensive premises of the Imperial China Manufactory； which were to be devoted to the manufacture of engines。
The Major appointed Messrs。 Eastwick； Harrison； and Wynants； to supply the entire mechanical plant of the railway。 I saw that it would be of no use to apply for any order for locomotives； but I offered to do all that I could to supply the necessary details。 In the course of a few days I was introduced to Joseph Harrison； the chief mechanic of the firm； and I then entered into a friendship which proved long and lasting。 He gave me a large order for boilers； and for detail parts of the Moscow enginesall of which helped him forward in the completion of the locomotives。 We also supplied many of our special machine tools； without which engines could not then be very satisfactorily made or kept in repair。 In this way I was in all respects highly remunerated for my journey。
The enjoyment of my visit to St。 Petersburg was much enhanced by frequent visits to my much valued friend General Alexander Wilson。 He was a native of Edinburgh； and delighted to enjoy cracks with me upon subjects of mutual interest。 His sister； who kept house for him； joined in our conversation。 She had been married to the Emperor Paul's physician； who was also a Scotsman； and was able to narrate many terrible events in relation to Russian Court affairs。 The General had worked his way upwards； like the rest of us。 During the principal part of his life he had superintended the great mechanical establishments at Alexandrosky and Colpenha； where about 3000 operatives were employed。 These establishments were originally founded by the Empress Catherine for the purpose of creating a native manufacturing population capable of carrying on textile and mechanical works of all kinds。 The sail…cloth for the Russian navy was manufactured at Alexandrosky by excellent machinery。 Cotton fabrics were also manufactured； as well as playing cards； which were a Crown monopoly。 The great establishment at Colpenha consisted of a foundry； a machine manufactory； and a mint where the copper money of the empire was coined。 General Wilson was the directing chief officer of all these establishments。
Through him I had the happiness of being introduced to General Greg； son of the great admiral who shed such honour on the Russian flag during the reign of the Empress Catherine。 He was then well advanced in years； but full of keen intelligence and devoted to astronomical pursuits。 He was in a great measure the founder of the Imperial Observatory at Pulkowa； situated on an appropriate eminence about eight miles from St。 Petersburg。 The observatory was furnished under his directions with the most magnificent astronomical instruments。 I had the honour to be introduced by him to the elder Struve； whose astronomical labours procured him a well…earned reputation throughout Europe。 I had the rare happiness of spending some nights with Struve； when he showed me the wonderful capabilities of his fine instruments。 The observatory is quite imperial in its arrangement and management； and was supported in the most liberal manner by the Emperor Nicholas。 Indeed； it is a perfect example of what so noble an establishment should be。
Struve most kindly invited me to come whenever the state of the weather permitted him to show forth the wonderful perfection of his instruments；a rare chance； which I seized every opportunity of enjoying。 It was quite a picture to see the keen interest and intense enjoyment with which the profound astronomer would seat himself at his instrument and pick out some exquisite test objects； such as the double stars in Virgo； Cygnus； or Ursa Major。 The beautiful order and neatness with which the instruments were kept in their magnificent appropriate apartments； each having its appropriate observer proceeding quietly with his allotted special work； with nothing to break the silence but the 〃tick； tack！〃 of the sidereal clockthis was indeed a most impressive sight！ And the kindly companionable manner of the great master of the establishment was in all respects in harmony with the astronomical work which he conducted in this great Temple of the Universe！
Through my friendship with General Wilson I was enabled to extend my acquaintance with many of my countrymen who had been long settled at St。 Petersburg in connection with commercial affairs。 I enjoyed their kind hospitality； and soon found myself quite at home amongst them。 I remained in the city for about two months。 During that time I was constantly about。 The shops； the streets； the houses； the museums； were objects of great interest。 The view of the magnificent buildings along the sides of the quay is very imposing。 Looking from the front of the statue of Peter the Great you observe the long facade of the Admiralty； the column of Alexander； the Winter Palace； and other public buildings。 The Neva flows in front of them in a massive volume of pure water。 On an island opposite stands the citadel。 The whole presents a coup d'oeil of unexampled architectural magnificence。
I was much interested by the shops and their signboards。 The latter were fixed all over the fronts of the shops； and contained a delineation of the goods sold within。 There was no necessity for reading。 The pictorial portraits told their own tale。 They were admirable specimens of what is called still…life pictures； not only as regards the drawing and colouring of each object； but with respect to the grouping； which was in most cases artistic and natural。 Two reasons were given me for this style of artistic sign…painting： one was that many of the people could not read the written words defining the articles sold within； and the other was that the severe and long…continued frosts of the St。 Petersburg winter rendered large shop windows impossible for the proper display of the goods。 Hence the small shop…windows to keep out the cold； and the large painted signboards to display the articles sold inside。
I was also greatly pleased with the manner in which the Russians employ ivy in screening their windows during summer。 Ivy is a beautiful plant； and is capable of forming a most elegant window…screen。 Nothing can be more beautiful than to look through green leaves。 Nearly every window of the ground flat of the houses in St。 Petersburg is thus screened。 The neat manner in which the ivy plants are trained over ornamental forms of cane is quite a study in its way。 And though the ivy is very common； yet a common thing； being a thing of beauty； may be a 〃joy for ever。〃 In the finer and most important mansions； the sides of the flight of wide steps that lead up to the reception rooms were beautifully decorated by oleander plants； growing in great vigour； with their fine flowers as fresh as if in a carefully…kept conservatory。 Other plants of a
