an autobiography-第54节
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I returned to the harbour two hours before the steamer was to leave。 To commemorate my visit； I mounted the top of the paddle…box； took out my sketch book； and made a panoramic view of Genoa as seen from the harbour。 I did it in pencil at the time； and afterwards filled it up with ink。 When the pages of the sketch book had been joined together the panoramic view extended to about eight feet long。 The accuracy of the detail； as well as the speed with which the drawing was done； were perhaps rather creditable to the draughtsmanat least so my artistic friends were pleased to tell me。 Indeed； many years after； a friend at court desired to submit it to the highest Lady in the land； and； being herself an artist； she expressed herself as highly gratified with the performance。
＇Image＇ A monk on board
The next station the steamer touched at was Leghorn。 As the vessel was not to start until next day； there was sufficient time for me to run up to Pisa。 There I spent a delightful day principally in wandering about that glorious group of buildings situated so near to each other the Cathedral； the Baptistery； the Campo Santo； and the Campanile or Leaning Tower。 What interested me most at the Cathedral was the two bronze lamps suspended at the end of the nave； which suggested to the mind of Galileo the invention of the pendulum。 Thousands had seen the lamps swinging before them； but he alone would know 〃the reason why。〃 The one swung at a different rate as compared with the other； being the result of the chains being hung of different lengths。 Hence Galileo's discovery of the principle or Law of the Pendulum。 This paved the way for Newton's law of gravitationone of the grandest laws of the universe。
Some of the finest works of Andrea del Sarto； son of the Tailor； are found here。 Indeed； the works of that great painter are little known out of Pisa and Florence。 I was reluctant to tear myself away from Pisa； but the Ercolano could not wait； and I was back in good time； and soon under weigh。
The next port we touched at was Civita Vecchia； one of the most dreary places that can be imagined； though at one time an Etruscan city； and afterwards the port of Trajan。 I did not land； as there were some difficulties in the way of passports。 We steamed on； and next morning when I awoke we were passing the coast of Ischia。 We could scarcely see the island for a thick mist had over…spread the sea。 Naples was still hidden from our sight； but over the mist I could observe the summit of Vesuvius vomiting forth dense clouds of white smoke。 The black summit of the crater appeared floating in the clear blue sky。 But the heat of the sun shortly warmed the mist； and it floated away like a curtain。
＇Image＇ Distant view of Vesuvius
A grand panorama then lay before us。 Naples looked bright and magnificent under the sunlight。 The sea was so smooth that the buildings and towers and convents and spires were reflected in the water。 On our left lay the Bay of Baiae； with its castles and temples and baths； dating from the days of the Roman Republic。 To the right lay Castellamare； Sorrento； and the island of Capri。 But the most prominent object was Vesuvius in front； with its expanding cloud of white smoke over the landscape。 On landing； I took up my quarters at the Hotel Victoria。 I sallied forth to take my first hasty view of the Chiaia； the streets； and the principal buildings。 But； in accordance with my motto of 〃Duty first； pleasure second；〃 I proceeded to attend to the business respecting which I had visited Naples。 That； however； was soon disposed of。 In a few days I was able to attend to pleasure。 I made my way to the Museo Borbonico； now called the National Museum。 I found it a rich mine of precious treasures； consisting of Greek； Etruscan； and Roman antiquities of every description。 Not the least interesting part of the Museum is the collection of marbles； pictures； and articles of daily use； dug from the ruins of the buried city of Pompeii。 Every spare hour that I could command was occupied in visiting and revisiting this wonderful Museum。
Herculaneum and Pompeii were also visited； but； more than all； the crater of Vesuvius。 During my visit the mountain was in its normal state。 I mounted the volcanic ashes with which it is strewn； and got to the top。 There I could look down into the pit from which the clouds of steam are vomited forth。 I went down to the very edge of the crater； stood close to its mouth； and watched the intermittent up…rushing of the blasts of vapour and sulphureous gases。 To keep clear of these I stood to the windward side； and was thus out of harm's way。
What struck me most was the wonderfully brilliant colours of the rugged lava rocks forming the precipitous cliffs of the interior walls of the crater。 These brilliant colours were the result of the sublimation and condensation on their surfaces of the combinations of sulphur and chloride of iron； quite as bright as if they had been painted with bright red； chrome； and all the most brilliant tints。 Columns of all manner of chemical vapours ascended from the clefts and deep cracks； at the bottom of which I clearly saw the bright hot lava。
I rolled as big a mass of cool lava as I could to the edge of the crater and heaved it down； but I heard no sound。 Doubtless the depth was vast； or it might probably have fallen into the molten lava； and thus made no noise。 On leaving this horrible pit edge； I tied the card of the Bridgewater Foundry to a bit of lava and threw it in； as token of respectful civility to Vulcan； the head of our craft。
I had considerably more difficulty in clambering up to the top edge of the crater than I had in coming down。 Once or twice； indeed； I was half choked by the swirls of sulphureous and muriatic acid vapour that environed me before I could reach the upper edge。 I sat down in a nook； though it was a very hot one； and made a sketch or two of the appearance of the crater。 But I feel that it is quite beyond my power either by pen or pencil； to convey an idea of the weird unearthly aspect which the funnel…shaped crater of Vesuvius presented at that time。 An eruption of unusual violence had occurred shortly before I saw it。 Great rounded blocks of lava had been thrown high into the air again and again； and had fallen back into the terrible focus of volcanic violence。 Vast portions of the rugged and precipitous sides of the crater had fallen in； and were left in a state of the wildest confusion。 When I visited the place the eruption had comparatively subsided。 The throat of the crater was a rugged opening of more than forty feet diameter； leading down toWhere？ Echo answers； 〃Where？〃 And yet there is no doubt but that the great mass of materials which lay around me as I made my sketches； had been shot up from inconceivable depths beneath the solid crust of the earth。 There still remains an enormous mass of molten materials that has been shut up beneath that crust since the surface of the globe assumed its present condition。 The mineral matter that formed the globe had converged towards its centre of gravity； and the arrestment of the momentum of the coalescing particles resulted in intense heat。 Hence the molten condition of the globe in its primitive state。 The molten lava of volcanoes is the survival of that original cosmical heat。
This heat has played a great part in the physical history of the globe。 Volcanic action has been； as it were； the universal plough！ It has given us mountains； hills； and valleys。 It has given us picturesque scenery； gorges； precipices； waterfalls。 The up heaving agent has displayed the mineral treasures of the earth； and enabled man； by intelligent industry； to use them as mines of material blessings。 This is indeed a great and sublime subject。
I had remained near the mouth of the crater for about five hours。 Evening was approaching。 My drawings were finished； and I prepared to leave。 My descent from the summit of the crater edge was comparatively rapid； though every footstep went down some fifteen inches through the volcanic ashes。 I descended by the eastern side； and was soon at the base of the great cone。 I made my way by tortuous walking round the erupted masses of lava； and also by portions of the lava streams； which； on losing their original fluidity； had become piled up and contorted into gigantic masses。
At the extreme edges of the flow； where the lava had become viscid； these folds and contortions were very remarkable。 They were piled fold over fold；the result of the mighty pressure from behind。 It was sad to see so many olive gardens burnt and destroyed； the trees were as black as charcoal。 It is singular to see the numbers of orange and olive growers who choose to live so near to the 〃fiery element。〃 But the heat presses forward the growth of vegetation。 To be there is like living in a hothouse； and the soil is extraordinarily fertile。 Hence the number of vineyards quite close to the base of Vesuvius。 The cultivators endeavour to enclose their gardens with hard masses of lava； so as to turn off the flow of the molten streams in other directions； but the lava bursts through the walls again and again； and the gardens are often utterly burnt up and ruined。 A
