an autobiography-第22节
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The volcanic origin of the beautiful scenery round Edinburgh was often the subject of their conversation。 Probably few visitors are aware that all those remarkable eminences； which give to the city and its surroundings so peculiar and romantic an aspect； are the results of the operation； during inconceivably remote ages； of volcanic force penetrating the earth's crust by disruptive power； and pouring forth streams of molten lava； now shrunk and cooled into volcanic rock。 The observant eye； opened by the light of Science； can see unmistakable evidences of a condition of things which were in action at periods so remote as； in comparison； to shrink up the oldest of human records into events of yesterday。
I had often the privilege of standing by and hearing the philosophic Leslie； Brewster； and Hall； discussing these volcanic remains in their actual presence； sometimes at Arthur's Seat or on the Calton Hill； or at the rock on which Edinburgh Castle stands； Their observations sank indelibly into my memory； and gave me the key to the origin of this grand class of terrestrial phenomena。 When standing at the 〃Giant's Ribs；〃 on the south side of Arthur's Seat； I felt as if one of the grandest pages of the earth's history lay open before me。 The evidences of similar volcanic action abound in many other places near Edinburgh； and they may be traced right across Scotland from the Bass Rock to Fingal's Cave； the Giant's Causeway in Antrim； and Slievh League on the south…west coast of Donegal in Ireland。
Volcanic action； in some inconceivably remote period of the earth's crust history； has been the Plough； and after denudation by water； has been the Harrow； by which the originally deep…seated mineral treasures of the globe have been brought within the reach of man's industrial efforts。 It has thus yielded him inexhaustible mineral harvests； and helped him to some of the most important material elements in his progress towards civilisation。 It is from this consideration that； while enjoying the results of these grand fundamental actions of the Creator's mighty agencies in their picturesque aspect； the knowledge of their useful results to man adds vastly to the grandeur of the contemplation of their aspect and nature。 This great subject caused me； even at this early period of my life； to behold with special interest the first peep at the structure of the moon's surface； as revealed to me by an excellent Ramsden 〃spy…glass；〃 which my father possessed； and thus planted the seed of that earnest desire to scrutinise more minutely the moon's wonderful surface； which in after years I pursued by means of the powerful reflecting telescopes constructed by myself。
To turn to another subject。 In 1822 the loyalty of Scotland was greatly excited when George the Fourth paid his well…known visit to Edinburgh。 It was then the second greatest city in the kingdom； and had not been visited by royalty for about 170 years。 The civic authorities； and the inhabitants generally； exerted themselves to the utmost to give the king a cordial welcome； in spite of a certain feeling of dissatisfaction as to his personal character。 The recent trial and death of Queen Caroline had not been forgotten； yet all such recollections were suppressed in the earnest desire to show every respect to the royal visitor。 Edinburgh was crowded with people from all parts of the country； heather was arrayed on every bonnet and hat； and the reception was on the whole magnificent。 Perhaps the most impressive spectacle was the orderliness of the multitude； all arrayed in their Sunday clothes。 The streets； windows； and house…tops were crowded； and the Calton Hill； Salisbury Crags； and even Arthur's Seat it self； were covered with people。 On the night before the arrival a gigantic bonfire on Arthur's Seat lit up with a tremendous blaze the whole city； as well as the surrounding country。 It formed a magnificent and picturesque sight； illuminating the adjacent mountains as well as the prominent features of the city。 It made one imagine that the grand old volcanic mountain had once more； after a rest of some hundreds of thousands of years； burst out again in its former vehemence of eruptive activity。
There were； of course； many very distinguished men who took part in the pageant of the king's entry into Edinburgh； but none of them had their presence more cordially acknowledged than Sir Walter Scott； who never felt more proud of 〃his own romantic town〃 than he did upon this occasion。 It is unnecessary to mention the many interesting features of the royal reception。 The king's visit lasted for seven or eight days； and everything passed off loyally； orderly； happily； and successfully。
Shortly after this time there was a great deal of distress among the labouring classes。 All the manufacturing towns were short of employment； and the weavers and factory workers were thrown upon the public。 Many of the workmen thought that politics were the causes of their suffering。 Radical clubs were formed； and the Glasgow weavers began to drill at nights in the hopes of setting things to rights by means of physical force。 A large number of the starving weavers came to Edinburgh。 A committee was formed； and contributions were collected； for the purpose of giving them temporary employment。 They were set to work to make roads and walks round the Calton Hill and Crags。 The fine walk immediately under the precipitous crags； which opens out such perfect panoramic views of Edinburgh； was made by these poor fellows。 It was hard work for their delicate hands and fingers； which before had been accustomed only to deal with threads and soft fabrics。 They were very badly suited for handling the mattock； shovel； and hand…barrow。 The result of their labours； however； proved of great advantage to Edinburgh in opening up the beauties of its scenery。 The road round the crags is still called 〃The Radical Road。〃
Let me here mention one of the most memorable incidents of the year 1824。 I refer to the destructive fire which took place in the old town of Edinburgh。 It broke out in an apartment situated in one of the highest piles of houses in the High Street。 In spite of every effort of the firemen the entire pile was gutted and destroyed。 The fire was thought to be effectually arrested； but towards the afternoon of the next day smoke was observed issuing from the upper part of the steeple of the Tron Church。 The steeple was built of timber； covered with lead。 There is never smoke but there is fire； and at last the flames burst forth。 The height of the spire was so lofty that all attempts to extinguish the fire were hopeless。 The lead was soon melted； and rushed in streams into the street below。 At length the whole steeple fell down with a frightful crash。
I happened to see the first outbreak of this extraordinary fire； and I watched its progress to its close。 Burning embers were carried by the wind and communicated the fire to neighbouring houses。 The last outburst took place one night about ten。 All the fire…engines of Edinburgh and the neighbourhood were collected round the buildings； and played water upon the flames； but without effect。 Whole ranges of lofty old houses were roaring with fire。 In the course of two or three hours； several acres； covered by the loftiest and most densely crowded houses in the High Street； were in a blaze。 Some of them were of thirteen stories。 Floor after floor came crashing down； throwing out a blaze of embers。 The walls of each house acted as an enormous chimney the windows acting as draught…holes。 The walls； under the intense heat； were fluxed and melted into a sort of glass。 The only method of stopping the progress of the fire was to pull down the neighbouring houses； so as to isolate the remaining parts of the High Street。
As the parapet of the grand old tower of the High Church； St。 Giles； was near the site of the fire；so near as to enable one to look down into it；my father obtained permission to ascend； and I with him。 When we emerged from the long dark spiral stairs on to the platform on the top of the tower； we found a select party of the most distinguished inhabitants looking down into the vast area of fire； and prominent among them was Sir Walter Scott。 At last； after three days of tremendous efforts； the fire was subdued； but not till after a terrible destruction of property。 The great height of the ruined remains of the piles of houses rendered it impossible to have them removed by the ordinary means。 After several fruitless attempts with chains and ropes； worked by capstans； to pull them down； gunpowder was at last resorted to。 Mines were dug under each vast pile； one or two barrels of gunpowder were placed into them and fired； and then the before solid masses came tumbling down amidst clouds of dust。 The management of this hazardous but eventually safe process was conducted by Captain Basil Ball。 He ordered a crew of sailors to be brought up from the man…of…war guardship in the Firth of Forth； and by their united efforts the destruction of the ruined walls was at last successfully accomplished。
In the autumn of 1823； when I was fifteen years old； I had a most delightful journey with my father。 It was the first occasion on wh
