worldly ways and byways(世俗之路)-第46节
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recovered。 The city sank into oblivion； and for over thirty years not a
house was built there。
It was not until near 1840 that the Middletons and Izzards and other
wealthy and aristocratic Southern families were tempted to Newport by
the climate and the facilities it offered for bathing； shooting and boating。 A
boarding…house or two sufficed for the modest wants of the new…comers；
first among which stood the Aquidneck； presided over by kind Mrs。
Murray。 It was not until some years later； when New York and Boston
families began to appreciate the place； that the first hotels were built； … the
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Atlantic on the square facing the old mill； the Bellevue and Fillmore on
Catherine Street； and finally the original Ocean House； destroyed by fire in
1845 and rebuilt as we see it to…day。 The croakers of the epoch considered
it much too far out of town to be successful； for at its door the open fields
began； a gate there separating the town from the country across which a
straggling； half…made road； closed by innumerable gates； led along the
cliffs and out across what is now the Ocean Drive。 The principal roads at
that time led inland； any one wishing to drive seaward had to descend
every two or three minutes to open a gate。 The youth of the day discovered
a source of income in opening and closing these for pennies。
Fashion had decreed that the correct hour for dancing was 11 A。M。；
and MATINEES DANSANTES were regularly given at the hotels； our
grandmothers appearing in DECOLLETE muslin frocks adorned with
broad sashes； and disporting themselves gayly until the dinner hour。 Low…
neck dresses were the rule； not only for these informal entertainments； but
as every…day wear for young girls； … an old lady only the other day telling
me she had never worn a 〃high…body〃 until after her marriage。 Two o'clock
found all the beauties and beaux dining。 How incredulously they would
have laughed if any one had prophesied that their grandchildren would
prefer eight forty… five as a dinner hour！
The opening of Bellevue Avenue marked another epoch in the history
of Newport。 About that time Governor Lawrence bought the whole of
Ochre Point farm for fourteen thousand dollars； and Mr。 de Rham built on
the newly opened road the first 〃cottage；〃 which stands to…day modestly
back from the avenue opposite Perry Street。 If houses have souls； as
Hawthorne averred； and can remember and compare； what curious
thoughts must pass through the oaken brain of this simple construction as
it sees its marble neighbors rearing their vast facades among trees。 The
trees； too； are an innovation； for when the de Rham cottage was built and
Mrs。 Cleveland opened her new house at the extreme end of Rough Point
（the second summer residence in the place） it is doubtful if a single tree
broke the rocky monotony of the landscape from the Ocean House to
Bateman's Point。
Governor Lawrence； having sold one acre of his Ochre Point farm to
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Mr。 Pendleton for the price he himself had paid for the whole； proceeded
to build a stone wall between the two properties down to the water's edge。
The population of Newport had been accustomed to take their Sunday
airings and moonlight rambles along 〃the cliffs；〃 and viewed this
obstruction of their favorite walk with dismay。 So strong was their feeling
that when the wall was completed the young men of the town repaired
there in the night and tore it down。 It was rebuilt； the mortar being mixed
with broken glass。 This infuriated the people to such an extent that the
whole populace； in broad daylight； accompanied by the summer visitors；
destroyed the wall and threw the materials into the sea。 Lawrence； bent on
maintaining what he considered his rights； called the law to his aid。 It was
then discovered that an immemorial riverain right gave the fishermen and
the public generally； access to the shore for fishing； and also to collect
seaweed； … a right of way that no one could obstruct。
This was the beginning of the long struggle between the cliff… dwellers
and the townspeople； each new property…owner； disgusted at the idea that
all the world can stroll at will across his well…kept lawns； has in turn tried
his hand at suppressing the now famous 〃walk。〃 Not only do the public
claim the liberty to walk there； but also the right to cross any property to
get to the shore。 At this moment the city fathers and the committee of the
new buildings at Bailey's Beach are wrangling as gayly as in Governor
Lawrence's day over a bit of wall lately constructed across the end of
Bellevue Avenue。 A new expedient has been hit upon by some of the
would…be exclusive owners of the cliffs； they have lowered the 〃walk〃 out
of sight； thus insuring their own privacy and in no way interfering with the
rights of the public。
Among the gentlemen who settled in Newport about Governor
Lawrence's time was Lord Baltimore （Mr。 Calvert； he preferred to call
himself）； who remained there until his death。 He was shy of referring to
his English peerage； but would willingly talk of his descent through his
mother from Peter Paul Rubens； from whom had come down to him a
chateau in Holland and several splendid paintings。 The latter hung in the
parlor of the modest little dwelling； where I was taken to see them and
their owner many years ago。 My introducer on this occasion was herself a
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lady of no ordinary birth； being the daughter of Stuart； our greatest portrait
painter。 I have passed many quiet hours in the quaint studio （the same her
father had used）； hearing her prattle … as she loved to do if she found a
sympathetic listener … of her father； of Washington and his pompous ways；
and the many celebrities who had in turn posed before Stuart's easel。 She
had been her father's companion and aid； present at the sittings； preparing
his brushes and colors； and painting in backgrounds and accessories； and
would willingly show his palette and explain his methods and theories of
color； his predilection for scrumbling shadows thinly in black and then
painting boldly in with body color。 Her lessons had not profited much to
the gentle； kindly old lady； for the productions of her own brush were far
from resembling her great parent's work。 She； however； painted cheerfully
on to life's close； surrounded by her many friends； foremost among whom
was Charlotte Cushman； who also passed the last years of her life in
Newport。 Miss Stuart was over eighty when I last saw her； still full of
spirit and vigor； beginning the portrait of a famous beauty of that day；
since the wife and mother of dukes。
Miss Stuart's death seems to close one of the chapters in the history of
this city； and to break the last connecting link with its past。 The world
moves so quickly that the simple days and modest amusements of our
fathers and grandfathers have already receded into misty remoteness。 We
look at their portraits and wonder vaguely at their graceless costumes。 We
know they trod these same streets； and laughed and flirted and married as
we are doing to…day； but they seem to us strangely far away； like
inhabitants of another sphere！
It is humiliating to think how soon we； too； shall have become the
ancestors of a new and careless generation； fresh faces will replace our
faded ones； young voices will laugh as they look at our portraits hanging
in dark corners； wondering who we were； and （criticising the apparel we
think so artistic and appropriate） how we could ever have made such guys
of ourselves。
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