worldly ways and byways(世俗之路)-第24节
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〃Is that any reason？〃 asked the French…woman； 〃I thought all
Americans kept hotels。〃
For the GRAND PRIX； every woman not absolutely bankrupt has a
new costume； her one idea being a CREATION that will attract attention
and eclipse her rivals。 The dressmakers have had a busy time of it for
weeks before。
Every horse that can stand up is pressed into service for the day。 For
twenty…four hours before； the whole city is EN FETE； and Paris EN FETE
is always a sight worth seeing。 The natural gayety of the Parisians； a
characteristic noticed （if we are to believe the historians） as far back as the
conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar； breaks out in all its amusing
spontaneity。 If the day is fine； the entire population gives itself up to
amusement。 From early morning the current sets towards the charming
corner of the Bois where the Longchamps race…course lies； picturesquely
encircled by the Seine （alive with a thousand boats）； and backed by the
woody slopes of Suresnes and St。 Cloud。 By noon every corner and
vantage point of the landscape is seized upon； when； with a blare of
trumpets and the rattle of cavalry； the President arrives in his turnout A LA
DAUMONT； two postilions in blue and gold； and a PIQUEUR； preceded
by a detachment of the showy GARDES REPUBLICAINS on horseback；
and takes his place in the little pavilion where for so many years Eugenie
used to sit in state； and which has sheltered so many crowned heads under
its simple roof。 Faure's arrival is the signal for the racing to begin； from
that moment the interest goes on increasing until the great 〃event。〃 Then in
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an instant the vast throng of human beings breaks up and flows homeward
across the Bois； filling the big Place around the Arc de Triomphe； rolling
down the Champs Elysees； in twenty parallel lines of carriages。 The
sidewalks are filled with a laughing； singing； uproarious crowd that
quickly invades every restaurant； CAFE； or chop…house until their little
tables overflow on to the grass and side…walks； and even into the middle of
the streets。 Later in the evening the open…air concerts and theatres are
packed； and every little square organizes its impromptu ball； the musicians
mounted on tables； and the crowd dancing gayly on the wooden pavement
until daybreak。
The next day； Paris becomes from a fashionable point of view；
〃impossible。〃 If you walk through the richer quarters； you will see only
long lines of closed windows。 The approaches to the railway stations are
blocked with cabs piled with trunks and bicycles。 The 〃great world〃 is
fleeing to the seashore or its CHATEAUX； and Paris will know it no more
until January； for the French are a country…loving race； and since there has
been no court； the aristocracy pass longer and longer periods on their own
estates each year； partly from choice and largely to show their disdain for
the republic and its entertainments。
The shady drives in the park； which only a day or two ago were so
brilliant with smart traps and spring toilets； are become a cool wilderness；
where will meet； perhaps； a few maiden ladies exercising fat dogs；
uninterrupted except by the watering…cart or by a few stray tourists in cabs。
Now comes a delightful time for the real amateur of Paris and the country
around； which is full of charming corners where one can dine at quiet little
restaurants； overhanging the water or buried among trees。 You are sure of
getting the best of attention from the waiters； and the dishes you order
receive all the cook's attention。 Of an evening the Bois is alive with a
myriad of bicycles； their lights twinkling among the trees like many…
colored fire…flies。 To any one who knows how to live there； Paris is at its
best in the last half of June and July。 Nevertheless； in a couple of days
there will not be an American in Paris； London being the objective point；
for we love to be 〃in at the death；〃 and a coronation； a musical festival； or
a big race is sure to attract all our floating population。
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The Americans who have the hardest time in Paris are those who try to
〃run with the deer and hunt with the hounds；〃 as the French proverb has it；
who would fain serve God and Mammon。 As anything especially amusing
is sure to take place on Sunday in this wicked capital； our friends go
through agonies of indecision； their consciences pulling one way； their
desire to amuse themselves the other。 Some find a middle course； it seems；
for yesterday this conversation was overheard on the steps of the
American Church：
FIRST AMERICAN LADY： 〃Are you going to stop for the sermon？〃
SECOND AMERICAN LADY： 〃I am so sorry I can't； but the races
begin at one！〃
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CHAPTER 20 … 〃The Treadmill。〃
A HALF…HUMOROUS； half…pathetic epistle has been sent to me by a
woman； who explains in it her particular perplexity。 Such letters are the
windfalls of our profession！ For what is more attractive than to have a
woman take you for her lay confessor； to whom she comes for advice in
trouble？ opening her innocent heart for your inspection！
My correspondent complains that her days are not sufficiently long；
nor is her strength great enough； for the thousand and one duties and
obligations imposed upon her。 〃If；〃 she says； 〃a woman has friends and a
small place in the world … and who has not in these days？ … she must golf
or 'bike' or skate a bit； of a morning； then she is apt to lunch out； or have a
friend or two in； to that meal。 After luncheon there is sure to be a 'class' of
some kind that she has foolishly joined； or a charity meeting； matinee； or
reception； but above all； there are her 'duty' calls。 She must be home at
five to make tea； that she has promised her men friends； and they will not
leave until it is time for her to dress for dinner； 'out' or at home； with often
the opera； a supper； or a ball to follow。 It is quite impossible；〃 she adds；
〃under these circumstances to apply one's self to anything serious； to read
a book or even open a periodical。 The most one can accomplish is a glance
at a paper。〃
Indeed； it would require an exceptional constitution to carry out the
above programme； not to mention the attention that a woman must
（however reluctantly） give to her house and her family。 Where are the
quiet hours to be found for self…culture； the perusal of a favorite author； or；
perhaps； a little timid 〃writing〃 on her own account？ Nor does this
treadmill round fill a few months only of her life。 With slight variations of
scene and costume； it continues through the year。
A painter； I know； was fortunate enough to receive； a year or two ago；
the commission to paint a well…known beauty。 He was delighted with the
idea and convinced that he could make her portrait the best work of his life；
one that would be the stepping…stone to fame and fortune。 This was in the
spring。 He was naturally burning to begin at once； but found to his dismay
that the lady was just about starting for Europe。 So he waited； and at her
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suggestion installed himself a couple of months later at the seaside city
where she had a cottage。 No one could be more charming than she was；
inviting him to dine and drive daily； but when he broached the subject of
〃sitting；〃 was 〃too busy just that day。〃 Later in the autumn she would be
quite at his disposal。 In the autumn； however； she was visiting； never ten
days in the same place。 Early winter found her 〃getting her house in
order；〃 a mysterious r
