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noto, an unexplored corner of japan-第28节

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which; left sitting all alone on the sands; mutely reproached us till

they could be seen no more。  At the first bend the gorge closed round

about us as rugged as ever。  The rapids were not so dangerous as

those above; but the stream was still fast if less furious。  When we

looked at the water we did not appear to be moving at all; and when

we looked up again at the bank we almost lost our balance for the

sudden start。 



Then gradually a change crept over the face of things。  The stream

grew a thought more steady; the canon a shade less wild。  We passed

through some more rapids;our last; the boatmen said。  The river

began to widen; the mountains standing more respectfully apart。

They let us see nothing new; but they showed us more of themselves;

and grand buttresses they made。  Then the reaches grew longer; and other

hills less high became visible ahead。  By all signs we were come to

the beginning of the end。  Another turn; and we were confronted with

a real view;a very hilly view; to be sure; but one that belonged to

the world of man。 



It was like coming out of a tunnel into the light。 



The current hurried us on。  At each bend the hills in front rose less

wild than at the bend before。  Villages began to dot the shores;

and the river spread out and took its ease。  Another curve; and we no

longer saw hills and rocks ahead。  A great plain stretched before us;

over which our eyes wandered at will。  Looking back; we marked the

mountains already closing up in line。  I tried to place the river's gap;

but the barrier had grown continuous to the eye。  Like adventurers in

a fairy tale; the opening through which we had come had closed

unrecognizably behind us。 



In front all was plain; every…day plain; with people tilling it;

and hamlets; and in the immediate foreground; right athwart our course;

a ferryboat full of folk。  As we bore down between it and the landing

place two men gesticulated at us from the bank。  We swerved in toward

them。  They shouted something to the boatmen; and Yejiro turned to

me。  The wayfarers asked if we would let them go with us to the sea。 

There was no regular conveyance; and they much desired to reach the

Tokaido that night。  What would I do?



〃Oh! Very well;〃 said I; reluctantly; 〃take them on board。〃



So it had come to this; after our romantic solitary voyage!  We were

to end as a common carrier; after all。  One is born a demigod; the

French say; to die a grocer。 



Our passengers were honest and businesslike。  Soon after coming

aboard they offered to pay for their passage; an offer I politely

declined。  Then they fell to chatting with Yejiro; and I doubt not in

five minutes had possessed themselves of all our immediate history。 



Meanwhile; the river was lazily dropping us down to the sea。  On the

left; at a respectful distance; a long; low rise; like a bit of

fortification; ran down indefinitely in the same direction; by way of

encouraging the stream。  Pitiable supposition!  Was this

meadow…meandering bit of water indeed our wild Tenriugawa!  It seemed

impossible。  Once we had a bathetic bit of excitement over a near

case of grounding; where the water had spread itself out to ripple

down to a lower level。  This was all to recall the past。  The stream

had grown steady and profitable。  More than once we passed craft

jarringly mercantile; and even some highly respectable automations;

water…wheel boats anchored in the current; nose to tail; in a long

line; apparently paddling up stream; but never advancing an inch。 

And all these sights had a work…a…day; machine look like middle age。 



The afternoon aged to match。  The sun began to dip behind the distant

hills; and then toward the east; in front of us; came out the long

outline of the Tokaido bridge; three quarters of a mile in length;

like a huge caterpillar crawling methodically across the river…bed。 

Gradually we drew toward it; till its myriad legs glinted in the

sunset glow; and then; as we swept under; it wheeled round to become

instantly a gaunt stalking silhouette against the sky。  From below by

the river's mouth the roar of the surf came forebodingly up out of

the ashen east。  But in the west was still a glory; and as I turned

to it I seemed to look down the long vista of the journey to western

Noto by the sea。  I thought how I had pictured it to myself before

starting; and then how little the facts had fitted the fancy。  It had

lost and gained; if no longer maiden; it was mine; and the glamour

that fringes the future had but changed to the glamour that gilds the

past。  Distance had brought it all back again。  Delays; discomforts;

difficulties; disappeared; and its memory rose as lovely as the sky

past which I looked。  For the better part of place or person is the

thought it leaves behind。 











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