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employing all his time in making excursions bout the neighbourhood on
horseback or on foot; in visits; in observations of every kind。  The
churches; the stations; the processions even; the sermons; then the
palaces; the vineyards; the gardens; the public amusements; as the
Carnival; &c。nothing was overlooked。  He saw a Jewish child
circumcised; and wrote down a most minute account of the operation。  He
met at San Sisto a Muscovite ambassador; the second who had come to Rome
since the pontificate of Paul III。  This minister had despatches from his
court for Venice; addressed to the 'Grand Governor of the Signory'。  The
court of Muscovy had at that time such limited relations with the other
powers of Europe; and it was so imperfect in its information; that it
thought Venice to be a dependency of the Holy See。〃

Of all the particulars with which he has furnished us during his stay at
Rome; the following passage in reference to the Essays is not the least
singular: 〃The Master of the Sacred Palace returned him his Essays;
castigated in accordance with the views of the learned monks。  'He had
only been able to form a judgment of them;' said he; 'through a certain
French monk; not understanding French himself'〃we leave Montaigne
himself to tell the story〃and he received so complacently my excuses
and explanations on each of the passages which had been animadverted upon
by the French monk; that he concluded by leaving me at liberty to revise
the text agreeably to the dictates of my own conscience。  I begged him;
on the contrary; to abide by the opinion of the person who had criticised
me; confessing; among other matters; as; for example; in my use of the
word fortune; in quoting historical poets; in my apology for Julian; in
my animadversion on the theory that he who prayed ought to be exempt from
vicious inclinations for the time being; item; in my estimate of cruelty;
as something beyond simple death; item; in my view that a child ought to
be brought up to do everything; and so on; that these were my opinions;
which I did not think wrong; as to other things; I said that the
corrector understood not my meaning。  The Master; who is a clever man;
made many excuses for me; and gave me to suppose that he did not concur
in the suggested improvements; and pleaded very ingeniously for me in my
presence against another (also an Italian) who opposed my sentiments。〃

Such is what passed between Montaigne and these two personages at that
time; but when the Essayist was leaving; and went to bid them farewell;
they used very different language to him。  〃They prayed me;〃 says he;
〃to pay no attention to the censure passed on my book; in which other
French persons had apprised them that there were many foolish things;
adding; that they honoured my affectionate intention towards the Church;
and my capacity; and had so high an opinion of my candour and
conscientiousness that they should leave it to me to make such
alterations as were proper in the book; when I reprinted it; among other
things; the word fortune。  To excuse themselves for what they had said
against my book; they instanced works of our time by cardinals and other
divines of excellent repute which had been blamed for similar faults;
which in no way affected reputation of the author; or of the publication
as a whole; they requested me to lend the Church the support of my
eloquence (this was their fair speech); and to make longer stay in the
place; where I should be free from all further intrusion on their part。
It seemed to me that we parted very good friends。〃

Before quitting Rome; Montaigne received his diploma of citizenship; by
which he was greatly flattered; and after a visit to Tivoli he set out
for Loretto; stopping at Ancona; Fano; and Urbino。  He arrived at the
beginning of May 1581; at Bagno della Villa; where he established
himself; order to try the waters。  There; we find in the Journal; of his
own accord the Essayist lived in the strictest conformity with the
regime; and henceforth we only hear of diet; the effect which the waters
had by degrees upon system; of the manner in which he took them; in a
word; he does not omit an item of the circumstances connected with his
daily routine; his habit of body; his baths; and the rest。  It was no
longer the journal of a traveller which he kept; but the diary of an
invalid;'〃I am reading Montaigne's Travels; which have lately been
found; there is little in them but the baths and medicines he took; and
what he had everywhere for dinner。〃H。  Walpole to Sir Horace Mann; June
8; 1774。' attentive to the minutest details of the cure which he was
endeavouring to accomplish: a sort of memorandum book; in which he was
noting down everything that he felt and did; for the benefit of his
medical man at home; who would have the care of his health on his return;
and the attendance on his subsequent infirmities。  Montaigne gives it as
his reason and justification for enlarging to this extent here; that he
had omitted; to his regret; to do so in his visits to other baths; which
might have saved him the trouble of writing at such great length now; but
it is perhaps a better reason in our eyes; that what he wrote he wrote
for his own use。

We find in these accounts; however; many touches which are valuable as
illustrating the manners of the place。  The greater part of the entries
in the Journal; giving the account of these waters; and of the travels;
down to Montaigne's arrival at the first French town on his homeward
route; are in Italian; because he wished to exercise himself in that
language。

The minute and constant watchfulness of Montaigne over his health and
over himself might lead one to suspect that excessive fear of death which
degenerates into cowardice。  But was it not rather the fear of the
operation for the stone; at that time really formidable?  Or perhaps he
was of the same way of thinking with the Greek poet; of whom Cicero
reports this saying: 〃I do not desire to die; but the thought of being
dead is indifferent to me。〃  Let us hear; however; what he says himself
on this point very frankly: 〃It would be too weak and unmanly on my part
if; certain as I am of always finding myself in the position of having to
succumb in that way;'To the stone or gravel。' and death coming nearer
and nearer to me; I did not make some effort; before the time came; to
bear the trial with fortitude。  For reason prescribes that we should
joyfully accept what it may please God to send us。  Therefore the only
remedy; the only rule; and the sole doctrine for avoiding the evils by
which mankind is surrounded; whatever they are; is to resolve to bear
them so far as our nature permits; or to put an end to them courageously
and promptly。〃

He was still at the waters of La Villa; when; on the 7th September 1581;
he learned by letter that he had been elected Mayor of Bordeaux on the
1st August preceding。  This intelligence made him hasten his departure;
and from Lucca he proceeded to Rome。  He again made some stay in that
city; and he there received the letter of the jurats of Bordeaux;
notifying to him officially his election to the Mayoralty; and inviting
him to return as speedily as possible。  He left for France; accompanied
by young D'Estissac and several other gentlemen; who escorted him a
considerable distance; but none went back to France with him; not even
his travelling companion。  He passed by Padua; Milan; Mont Cenis; and
Chambery; thence he went on to Lyons; and lost no time in repairing to
his chateau; after an absence of seventeen months and eight days。

We have just seen that; during his absence in Italy; the author of the
Essays was elected mayor of Bordeaux。  〃The gentlemen of Bordeaux;〃 says
he; 〃elected me Mayor of their town while I was at a distance from
France; and far from the thought of such a thing。  I excused myself; but
they gave to understand that I was wrong in so doing; it being also the
command of the king that I should stand。〃  This the letter which Henry
III。 wrote to him on the occasion:

MONSIEUR; DE MONTAIGNE;Inasmuch as I hold in great esteem your fidelity
and zealous devotion to my service; it has been a pleasure to me to learn
that you have been chosen mayor of my town of Bordeaux。  I have had the
agreeable duty of confirming the selection; and I did so the more
willingly; seeing that it was made during your distant absence; wherefore
it is my desire; and I require and command you expressly that you proceed
without delay to enter on the duties to which you have received so
legitimate a call。  And so you will act in a manner very agreeable to me;
while the contrary will displease me greatly。  Praying God; M。 de
Montaigne; to have you in his holy keeping。

〃Written at Paris; the 25th day of November 1581。

〃HENRI。

〃A Monsieur de MONTAIGNE;
Knight of my Order; Gentleman in Ordinary of my
Chamber; being at present in Rome。〃

Montaigne; in his new employment; the most important in the province;
obeyed the axiom; that a man may not refuse a duty; though it absorb his
time and attention; and even involve the sacrifice of his blood。  Placed
between two extreme parties; ever on the point of getting to bl

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