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an honest man stepped forth from the crowd and proposed his unlet

floor of two rooms; with supper of eggs and bacon; ale and punch。

We joyfully accompanied him home to the strangest of clean houses;

where we were well entertained to the satisfaction of all parties。

But the novel feature of the entertainment was; that our host was a

chair…maker; and that the chairs assigned to us were mere frames;

altogether without bottoms of any sort; so that we passed the

evening on perches。  Nor was this the absurdest consequence; for

when we unbent at supper; and any one of us gave way to laughter; he

forgot the peculiarity of his position; and instantly disappeared。

I myself; doubled up into an attitude from which self…extrication

was impossible; was taken out of my frame; like a clown in a comic

pantomime who has tumbled into a tub; five times by the taper's

light during the eggs and bacon。



The Holly…Tree was fast reviving within me a sense of loneliness。  I

began to feel conscious that my subject would never carry on until I

was dug out。  I might be a week here;weeks!



There was a story with a singular idea in it; connected with an Inn

I once passed a night at in a picturesque old town on the Welsh

border。  In a large double…bedded room of this Inn there had been a

suicide committed by poison; in one bed; while a tired traveller

slept unconscious in the other。  After that time; the suicide bed

was never used; but the other constantly was; the disused bedstead

remaining in the room empty; though as to all other respects in its

old state。  The story ran; that whosoever slept in this room; though

never so entire a stranger; from never so far off; was invariably

observed to come down in the morning with an impression that he

smelt Laudanum; and that his mind always turned upon the subject of

suicide; to which; whatever kind of man he might be; he was certain

to make some reference if he conversed with any one。  This went on

for years; until it at length induced the landlord to take the

disused bedstead down; and bodily burn it;bed; hangings; and all。

The strange influence (this was the story) now changed to a fainter

one; but never changed afterwards。  The occupant of that room; with

occasional but very rare exceptions; would come down in the morning;

trying to recall a forgotten dream he had had in the night。  The

landlord; on his mentioning his perplexity; would suggest various

commonplace subjects; not one of which; as he very well knew; was

the true subject。  But the moment the landlord suggested 〃Poison;〃

the traveller started; and cried; 〃Yes!〃  He never failed to accept

that suggestion; and he never recalled any more of the dream。



This reminiscence brought the Welsh Inns in general before me; with

the women in their round hats; and the harpers with their white

beards (venerable; but humbugs; I am afraid); playing outside the

door while I took my dinner。  The transition was natural to the

Highland Inns; with the oatmeal bannocks; the honey; the venison

steaks; the trout from the loch; the whisky; and perhaps (having the

materials so temptingly at hand) the Athol brose。  Once was I coming

south from the Scottish Highlands in hot haste; hoping to change

quickly at the station at the bottom of a certain wild historical

glen; when these eyes did with mortification see the landlord come

out with a telescope and sweep the whole prospect for the horses;

which horses were away picking up their own living; and did not

heave in sight under four hours。  Having thought of the loch…trout;

I was taken by quick association to the Anglers' Inns of England (I

have assisted at innumerable feats of angling by lying in the bottom

of the boat; whole summer days; doing nothing with the greatest

perseverance; which I have generally found to be as effectual

towards the taking of fish as the finest tackle and the utmost

science); and to the pleasant white; clean; flower…pot…decorated

bedrooms of those inns; overlooking the river; and the ferry; and

the green ait; and the church…spire; and the country bridge; and to

the pearless Emma with the bright eyes and the pretty smile; who

waited; bless her! with a natural grace that would have converted

Blue…Beard。  Casting my eyes upon my Holly…Tree fire; I next

discerned among the glowing coals the pictures of a score or more of

those wonderful English posting…inns which we are all so sorry to

have lost; which were so large and so comfortable; and which were

such monuments of British submission to rapacity and extortion。  He

who would see these houses pining away; let him walk from

Basingstoke; or even Windsor; to London; by way of Hounslow; and

moralise on their perishing remains; the stables crumbling to dust;

unsettled labourers and wanderers bivouacking in the outhouses;

grass growing in the yards; the rooms; where erst so many hundred

beds of down were made up; let off to Irish lodgers at eighteenpence

a week; a little ill…looking beer…shop shrinking in the tap of

former days; burning coach…house gates for firewood; having one of

its two windows bunged up; as if it had received punishment in a

fight with the Railroad; a low; bandy…legged; brick…making bulldog

standing in the doorway。  What could I next see in my fire so

naturally as the new railway…house of these times near the dismal

country station; with nothing particular on draught but cold air and

damp; nothing worth mentioning in the larder but new mortar; and no

business doing beyond a conceited affectation of luggage in the

hall?  Then I came to the Inns of Paris; with the pretty apartment

of four pieces up one hundred and seventy…five waxed stairs; the

privilege of ringing the bell all day long without influencing

anybody's mind or body but your own; and the not…too…much…for…

dinner; considering the price。  Next to the provincial Inns of

France; with the great church…tower rising above the courtyard; the

horse…bells jingling merrily up and down the street beyond; and the

clocks of all descriptions in all the rooms; which are never right;

unless taken at the precise minute when; by getting exactly twelve

hours too fast or too slow; they unintentionally become so。  Away I

went; next; to the lesser roadside Inns of Italy; where all the

dirty clothes in the house (not in wear) are always lying in your

anteroom; where the mosquitoes make a raisin pudding of your face in

summer; and the cold bites it blue in winter; where you get what you

can; and forget what you can't:  where I should again like to be

boiling my tea in a pocket…handkerchief dumpling; for want of a

teapot。  So to the old palace Inns and old monastery Inns; in towns

and cities of the same bright country; with their massive

quadrangular staircases; whence you may look from among clustering

pillars high into the blue vault of heaven; with their stately

banqueting…rooms; and vast refectories; with their labyrinths of

ghostly bedchambers; and their glimpses into gorgeous streets that

have no appearance of reality or possibility。  So to the close

little Inns of the Malaria districts; with their pale attendants;

and their peculiar smell of never letting in the air。  So to the

immense fantastic Inns of Venice; with the cry of the gondolier

below; as he skims the corner; the grip of the watery odours on one

particular little bit of the bridge of your nose (which is never

released while you stay there); and the great bell of St。 Mark's

Cathedral tolling midnight。  Next I put up for a minute at the

restless Inns upon the Rhine; where your going to bed; no matter at

what hour; appears to be the tocsin for everybody else's getting up;

and where; in the table…d'hote room at the end of the long table

(with several Towers of Babel on it at the other end; all made of

white plates); one knot of stoutish men; entirely dressed in jewels

and dirt; and having nothing else upon them; will remain all night;

clinking glasses; and singing about the river that flows; and the

grape that grows; and Rhine wine that beguiles; and Rhine woman that

smiles and hi drink drink my friend and ho drink drink my brother;

and all the rest of it。  I departed thence; as a matter of course;

to other German Inns; where all the eatables are soddened down to

the same flavour; and where the mind is disturbed by the apparition

of hot puddings; and boiled cherries; sweet and slab; at awfully

unexpected periods of the repast。  After a draught of sparkling beer

from a foaming glass jug; and a glance of recognition through the

windows of the student beer…houses at Heidelberg and elsewhere; I

put out to sea for the Inns of America; with their four hundred beds

apiece; and their eight or nine hundred ladies and gentlemen at

dinner every day。  Again I stood in the bar…rooms thereof; taking my

evening cobbler; julep; sling; or cocktail。  Again I listened to my

friend the General;whom I had known for five minutes; in the

course of which period he had 

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