the holly-tree-第5节
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an honest man stepped forth from the crowd and proposed his unlet
floor of two rooms; with supper of eggs and bacon; ale and punch。
We joyfully accompanied him home to the strangest of clean houses;
where we were well entertained to the satisfaction of all parties。
But the novel feature of the entertainment was; that our host was a
chair…maker; and that the chairs assigned to us were mere frames;
altogether without bottoms of any sort; so that we passed the
evening on perches。 Nor was this the absurdest consequence; for
when we unbent at supper; and any one of us gave way to laughter; he
forgot the peculiarity of his position; and instantly disappeared。
I myself; doubled up into an attitude from which self…extrication
was impossible; was taken out of my frame; like a clown in a comic
pantomime who has tumbled into a tub; five times by the taper's
light during the eggs and bacon。
The Holly…Tree was fast reviving within me a sense of loneliness。 I
began to feel conscious that my subject would never carry on until I
was dug out。 I might be a week here;weeks!
There was a story with a singular idea in it; connected with an Inn
I once passed a night at in a picturesque old town on the Welsh
border。 In a large double…bedded room of this Inn there had been a
suicide committed by poison; in one bed; while a tired traveller
slept unconscious in the other。 After that time; the suicide bed
was never used; but the other constantly was; the disused bedstead
remaining in the room empty; though as to all other respects in its
old state。 The story ran; that whosoever slept in this room; though
never so entire a stranger; from never so far off; was invariably
observed to come down in the morning with an impression that he
smelt Laudanum; and that his mind always turned upon the subject of
suicide; to which; whatever kind of man he might be; he was certain
to make some reference if he conversed with any one。 This went on
for years; until it at length induced the landlord to take the
disused bedstead down; and bodily burn it;bed; hangings; and all。
The strange influence (this was the story) now changed to a fainter
one; but never changed afterwards。 The occupant of that room; with
occasional but very rare exceptions; would come down in the morning;
trying to recall a forgotten dream he had had in the night。 The
landlord; on his mentioning his perplexity; would suggest various
commonplace subjects; not one of which; as he very well knew; was
the true subject。 But the moment the landlord suggested 〃Poison;〃
the traveller started; and cried; 〃Yes!〃 He never failed to accept
that suggestion; and he never recalled any more of the dream。
This reminiscence brought the Welsh Inns in general before me; with
the women in their round hats; and the harpers with their white
beards (venerable; but humbugs; I am afraid); playing outside the
door while I took my dinner。 The transition was natural to the
Highland Inns; with the oatmeal bannocks; the honey; the venison
steaks; the trout from the loch; the whisky; and perhaps (having the
materials so temptingly at hand) the Athol brose。 Once was I coming
south from the Scottish Highlands in hot haste; hoping to change
quickly at the station at the bottom of a certain wild historical
glen; when these eyes did with mortification see the landlord come
out with a telescope and sweep the whole prospect for the horses;
which horses were away picking up their own living; and did not
heave in sight under four hours。 Having thought of the loch…trout;
I was taken by quick association to the Anglers' Inns of England (I
have assisted at innumerable feats of angling by lying in the bottom
of the boat; whole summer days; doing nothing with the greatest
perseverance; which I have generally found to be as effectual
towards the taking of fish as the finest tackle and the utmost
science); and to the pleasant white; clean; flower…pot…decorated
bedrooms of those inns; overlooking the river; and the ferry; and
the green ait; and the church…spire; and the country bridge; and to
the pearless Emma with the bright eyes and the pretty smile; who
waited; bless her! with a natural grace that would have converted
Blue…Beard。 Casting my eyes upon my Holly…Tree fire; I next
discerned among the glowing coals the pictures of a score or more of
those wonderful English posting…inns which we are all so sorry to
have lost; which were so large and so comfortable; and which were
such monuments of British submission to rapacity and extortion。 He
who would see these houses pining away; let him walk from
Basingstoke; or even Windsor; to London; by way of Hounslow; and
moralise on their perishing remains; the stables crumbling to dust;
unsettled labourers and wanderers bivouacking in the outhouses;
grass growing in the yards; the rooms; where erst so many hundred
beds of down were made up; let off to Irish lodgers at eighteenpence
a week; a little ill…looking beer…shop shrinking in the tap of
former days; burning coach…house gates for firewood; having one of
its two windows bunged up; as if it had received punishment in a
fight with the Railroad; a low; bandy…legged; brick…making bulldog
standing in the doorway。 What could I next see in my fire so
naturally as the new railway…house of these times near the dismal
country station; with nothing particular on draught but cold air and
damp; nothing worth mentioning in the larder but new mortar; and no
business doing beyond a conceited affectation of luggage in the
hall? Then I came to the Inns of Paris; with the pretty apartment
of four pieces up one hundred and seventy…five waxed stairs; the
privilege of ringing the bell all day long without influencing
anybody's mind or body but your own; and the not…too…much…for…
dinner; considering the price。 Next to the provincial Inns of
France; with the great church…tower rising above the courtyard; the
horse…bells jingling merrily up and down the street beyond; and the
clocks of all descriptions in all the rooms; which are never right;
unless taken at the precise minute when; by getting exactly twelve
hours too fast or too slow; they unintentionally become so。 Away I
went; next; to the lesser roadside Inns of Italy; where all the
dirty clothes in the house (not in wear) are always lying in your
anteroom; where the mosquitoes make a raisin pudding of your face in
summer; and the cold bites it blue in winter; where you get what you
can; and forget what you can't: where I should again like to be
boiling my tea in a pocket…handkerchief dumpling; for want of a
teapot。 So to the old palace Inns and old monastery Inns; in towns
and cities of the same bright country; with their massive
quadrangular staircases; whence you may look from among clustering
pillars high into the blue vault of heaven; with their stately
banqueting…rooms; and vast refectories; with their labyrinths of
ghostly bedchambers; and their glimpses into gorgeous streets that
have no appearance of reality or possibility。 So to the close
little Inns of the Malaria districts; with their pale attendants;
and their peculiar smell of never letting in the air。 So to the
immense fantastic Inns of Venice; with the cry of the gondolier
below; as he skims the corner; the grip of the watery odours on one
particular little bit of the bridge of your nose (which is never
released while you stay there); and the great bell of St。 Mark's
Cathedral tolling midnight。 Next I put up for a minute at the
restless Inns upon the Rhine; where your going to bed; no matter at
what hour; appears to be the tocsin for everybody else's getting up;
and where; in the table…d'hote room at the end of the long table
(with several Towers of Babel on it at the other end; all made of
white plates); one knot of stoutish men; entirely dressed in jewels
and dirt; and having nothing else upon them; will remain all night;
clinking glasses; and singing about the river that flows; and the
grape that grows; and Rhine wine that beguiles; and Rhine woman that
smiles and hi drink drink my friend and ho drink drink my brother;
and all the rest of it。 I departed thence; as a matter of course;
to other German Inns; where all the eatables are soddened down to
the same flavour; and where the mind is disturbed by the apparition
of hot puddings; and boiled cherries; sweet and slab; at awfully
unexpected periods of the repast。 After a draught of sparkling beer
from a foaming glass jug; and a glance of recognition through the
windows of the student beer…houses at Heidelberg and elsewhere; I
put out to sea for the Inns of America; with their four hundred beds
apiece; and their eight or nine hundred ladies and gentlemen at
dinner every day。 Again I stood in the bar…rooms thereof; taking my
evening cobbler; julep; sling; or cocktail。 Again I listened to my
friend the General;whom I had known for five minutes; in the
course of which period he had