part02-第3节
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Finding we listened to him apparently with easy faith; he added;
that there was often heard at night; in the Court of Lions; a low
confused sound; resembling the murmuring of a multitude; and now and
then a faint tinkling; like the distant clank of chains。 These
sounds were made by the spirits of the murdered Abencerrages; who
nightly haunt the scene of their suffering and invoke the vengeance of
Heaven on their destroyer。
The sounds in question had no doubt been produced; as I had
afterwards an opportunity of ascertaining; by the bubbling currents
and tinkling falls of water conducted under the pavement through pipes
and channels to supply the fountains; but I was too considerate to
intimate such an idea to the humble chronicler of the Alhambra。
Encouraged by my easy credulity; Mateo gave me the following as an
undoubted fact; which he had from his grandfather:
There was once an invalid soldier; who had charge of the Alhambra to
show it to strangers: as he was one evening; about twilight; passing
through the Court of Lions; he heard footsteps on the Hall of the
Abencerrages; supposing some strangers to be lingering there; he
advanced to attend upon them; when to his astonishment he beheld
four Moors richly dressed; with gilded cuirasses and cimeters; and
poniards glittering with precious stones。 They were walking to and
fro; with solemn pace; but paused and beckoned to him。 The old
soldier; however; took to flight; and could never afterwards be
prevailed upon to enter the Alhambra。 Thus it is that men sometimes
turn their backs upon fortune; for it is the firm opinion of Mateo;
that the Moors intended to reveal the place where their treasures
lay buried。 A successor to the invalid soldier was more knowing; he
came to the Alhambra poor; but at the end of a year went off to
Malaga; bought houses; set up a carriage; and still lives there one of
the richest as well as oldest men of the place; all which; Mateo
sagely surmised; was in consequence of his finding out the golden
secret of these phantom Moors。
I now perceived I had made an invaluable acquaintance in this son of
the Alhambra; one who knew all the apocryphal history of the place;
and firmly believed in it; and whose memory was stuffed with a kind of
knowledge for which I have a lurking fancy; but which is too apt to be
considered rubbish by less indulgent philosophers。 I determined to
cultivate the acquaintance of this learned Theban。
Immediately opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages a portal; richly
adorned; leads into a hall of less tragical associations。 It is
light and lofty; exquisitely graceful in its architecture; paved
with white marble; and bears the suggestive name of the Hall of the
Two Sisters。 Some destroy the romance of the name by attributing it to
two enormous slabs of alabaster which lie side by side; and form a
great part of the pavement; an opinion strongly supported by Mateo
Ximenes。 Others are disposed to give the name a more poetical
significance; as the vague memorial of Moorish beauties who once
graced this hall; which was evidently a part of the royal harem。
This opinion I was happy to find entertained by our little bright…eyed
guide; Dolores; who pointed to a balcony over an inner porch; which
gallery; she had been told; belonged to the women's apartment。 〃You
see; senor;〃 said she; 〃it is all grated and latticed; like the
gallery in a convent chapel where the nuns hear mass; for the
Moorish kings;〃 added she; indignantly; 〃shut up their wives just like
nuns。〃
The latticed 〃jalousies;〃 in fact; still remain; whence the
dark…eyed beauties of the harem might gaze unseen upon the zambras and
other dances and entertainments of the hall below。
On each side of this hall are recesses or alcoves for ottomans and
couches; on which the voluptuous lords of the Alhambra indulged in
that dreamy repose so dear to the Orientalists。 A cupola or lantern
admits a tempered light from above and a free circulation of air;
while on one side is heard the refreshing sound of waters from the
fountain of the lions; and on the other side the soft plash from the
basin in the garden of Lindaraxa。
It is impossible to contemplate this scene so perfectly Oriental
without feeling the early associations of Arabian romance; and
almost expecting to see the white arm of some mysterious princess
beckoning from the gallery; or some dark eye sparkling through the
lattice。 The abode of beauty is here; as if it had been inhabited
but yesterday; but where are the two sisters; where the Zoraydas and
Lindaraxas!
An abundant supply of water; brought from the mountains by old
Moorish aqueducts; circulates throughout the palace; supplying its
baths and fishpools; sparkling in jets within its halls; or
murmuring in channels along the marble pavements。 When it has paid its
tribute to the royal pile; and visited its gardens and parterres; it
flows down the long avenue leading to the city; tinkling in rills;
gushing in fountains; and maintaining a perpetual verdure in those
groves that embower and beautify the whole hill of the Alhambra。
Those only who have sojourned in the ardent climates of the South;
can appreciate the delights of an abode; combining the breezy coolness
of the mountain with the freshness and verdure of the valley。 While
the city below pants with the noontide heat; and the parched Vega
trembles to the eye; the delicate airs from the Sierra Nevada play
through these lofty halls; bringing with them the sweetness of the
surrounding gardens。 Every thing invites to that indolent repose;
the bliss of southern climes; and while the half…shut eye looks out
from shaded balconies upon the glittering landscape; the ear is lulled
by the rustling of groves; and the murmur of running streams。
I forbear for the present; however; to describe the other delightful
apartments of the palace。 My object is merely to give the reader a
general introduction into an abode where; if so disposed; he may
linger and loiter with me day by day until we gradually become
familiar with all its localities。
Note on Morisco Architecture
To an unpractised eye the light relievos and fanciful arabesques
which cover the walls of the Alhambra appear to have been sculptured
by the hand; with a minute and patient labor; an inexhaustible variety
of detail; yet a general uniformity and harmony of design truly
astonishing; and this may especially be said of the vaults and
cupolas; which are wrought like honey…combs; or frostwork; with
stalactites and pendants which confound the beholder with the
seeming intricacy of their patterns。 The astonishment ceases; however;
when it is discovered that this is all stucco…work: plates of
plaster of Paris; cast in moulds and skilfully joined so as to form
patterns of every size and form。 This mode of diapering walls with
arabesques and stuccoing the vaults with grotto…work; was invented
in Damascus; but highly improved by the Moors in Morocco; to whom
Saracenic architecture owes its most graceful and fanciful details。
The process by which all this fairy tracery was produced was
ingeniously simple: The wall in its naked state was divided off by
lines crossing at right angles; such as artists use in copying a
picture; over these were drawn a succession of intersecting segments
of circles。 By the aid of these the artists could work with celerity
and certainty; and from the mere intersection of the plain and
curved lines arose the interminable variety of patterns and the
general uniformity of their character。
Much gilding was used in the stucco…work; especially of the cupolas:
and the interstices were delicately pencilled with brilliant colors;
such as vermilion and lapis lazuli; laid on with the whites of eggs。
The primitive colors alone were used; says Ford; by the Egyptians;
Greeks; and Arabs; in the early period of art; and they prevail in the
Alhambra whenever the artist has been Arabic or Moorish。 It is
remarkable how much of their original brilliancy remains after the
lapse of several centuries。
The lower part of the walls in the saloons; to the height of several
feet; is incrusted with glazed tiles; joined like the plates of
stucco…work; so as to form various patterns。 On some of them are
emblazoned the escutcheons of the Moslem kings; traversed with a
band and motto。 These glazed tiles (azulejos in Spanish; az…zulaj in
Arabic) are of Oriental origin; their coolness; cleanliness; and
freedom from vermin; render them admirably fitted in sultry climates
for paving halls and fountains; incrusting bathing rooms; and lining
the walls of chambers。 Ford is inclined to give them great
antiquity。 From their prevailing colors; sapphire and blue; he deduces
that they may have formed the kind of pavements alluded to in the
sacred Scriptures… 〃There was under his feet as it were a paved work
of a sapphire stone〃 (Exod。 xxiv。 10); and again; 〃Behold