roughing it-第95节

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weeks　there　very　pleasantly。　　I　still　remember；　with　a　sense　of　indolent
luxury；　a　picnicing　excursion　up　a　romantic　gorge　there；　called　the　Iao
Valley。　　The　trail　lay　along　the　edge　of　a　brawling　stream　in　the　bottom
of　the　gorgea　shady　route；　for　it　was　well　roofed　with　the　verdant
domes　of　forest　trees。　　Through　openings　in　the　foliage　we　glimpsed
picturesque　scenery　that　revealed　ceaseless　changes　and　new　charms　with
every　step　of　our　progress。　　Perpendicular　walls　from　one　to　three
thousand　feet　high　guarded　the　way；　and　were　sumptuously　plumed　with
varied　foliage；　in　places；　and　in　places　swathed　in　waving　ferns。
Passing　shreds　of　cloud　trailed　their　shadows　across　these　shining
fronts；　mottling　them　with　blots；　billowy　masses　of　white　vapor　hid　the
turreted　summits；　and　far　above　the　vapor　swelled　a　background　of
gleaming　green　crags　and　cones　that　came　and　went；　through　the　veiling
mists；　like　islands　drifting　in　a　fog；　sometimes　the　cloudy　curtain
descended　till　half　the　canon　wall　was　hidden；　then　shredded　gradually
away　till　only　airy　glimpses　of　the　ferny　front　appeared　through　itthen
swept　aloft　and　left　it　glorified　in　the　sun　again。　　Now　and　then；　as　our
position　changed；　rocky　bastions　swung　out　from　the　wall；　a　mimic　ruin　of
castellated　ramparts　and　crumbling　towers　clothed　with　mosses　and　hung
with　garlands　of　swaying　vines；　and　as　we　moved　on　they　swung　back　again
and　hid　themselves　once　more　in　the　foliage。　　Presently　a　verdure…clad
needle　of　stone；　a　thousand　feet　high；　stepped　out　from　behind　a　corner；
and　mounted　guard　over　the　mysteries　of　the　valley。　　It　seemed　to　me　that
if　Captain　Cook　needed　a　monument；　here　was　one　ready　madetherefore；
why　not　put　up　his　sign　here；　and　sell　out　the　venerable　cocoanut　stump？

But　the　chief　pride　of　Maui　is　her　dead　volcano　of　Haleakalawhich
means；　translated；　〃the　house　of　the　sun。〃　　We　climbed　a　thousand　feet　up
the　side　of　this　isolated　colossus　one　afternoon；　then　camped；　and　next
day　climbed　the　remaining　nine　thousand　feet；　and　anchored　on　the　summit；
where　we　built　a　fire　and　froze　and　roasted　by　turns；　all　night。　　With
the　first　pallor　of　dawn　we　got　up　and　saw　things　that　were　new　to　us。
Mounted　on　a　commanding　pinnacle；　we　watched　Nature　work　her　silent
wonders。　　The　sea　was　spread　abroad　on　every　hand；　its　tumbled　surface
seeming　only　wrinkled　and　dimpled　in　the　distance。　　A　broad　valley　below
appeared　like　an　ample　checker…board；　its　velvety　green　sugar　plantations
alternating　with　dun　squares　of　barrenness　and　groves　of　trees　diminished
to　mossy　tufts。　　Beyond　the　valley　were　mountains　picturesquely　grouped
together；　but　bear　in　mind；　we　fancied　that　we　were　looking　up　at　these
thingsnot　down。　　We　seemed　to　sit　in　the　bottom　of　a　symmetrical　bowl
ten　thousand　feet　deep；　with　the　valley　and　the　skirting　sea　lifted　away
into　the　sky　above　us！　　It　was　curious；　and　not　only　curious；　but
aggravating；　for　it　was　having　our　trouble　all　for　nothing；　to　climb　ten
thousand　feet　toward　heaven　and　then　have　to　look　up　at　our　scenery。
However；　we　had　to　be　content　with　it　and　make　the　best　of　it；　for；　all
we　could　do　we　could　not　coax　our　landscape　down　out　of　the　clouds。
Formerly；　when　I　had　read　an　article　in　which　Poe　treated　of　this
singular　fraud　perpetrated　upon　the　eye　by　isolated　great　altitudes；
I　had　looked　upon　the　matter　as　an　invention　of　his　own　fancy。

I　have　spoken　of　the　outside　viewbut　we　had　an　inside　one；　too。　　That
was　the　yawning　dead　crater；　into　which　we　now　and　then　tumbled　rocks；
half　as　large　as　a　barrel；　from　our　perch；　and　saw　them　go　careering　down
the　almost　perpendicular　sides；　bounding　three　hundred　feet　at　a　jump；
kicking　up　cast…clouds　wherever　they　struck；　diminishing　to　our　view　as
they　sped　farther　into　distance；　growing　invisible；　finally；　and　only
betraying　their　course　by　faint　little　puffs　of　dust；　and　coming　to　a
halt　at　last　in　the　bottom　of　the　abyss；　two　thousand　five　hundred　feet
down　from　where　they　started！　　It　was　magnificent　sport。　　We　wore
ourselves　out　at　it。

The　crater　of　Vesuvius；　as　I　have　before　remarked；　is　a　modest　pit　about
a　thousand　feet　deep　and　three　thousand　in　circumference；　that　of　Kilauea
is　somewhat　deeper；　and　ten　miles　in　circumference。　　But　what　are　either
of　them　compared　to　the　vacant　stomach　of　Haleakala？　　I　will　not　offer
any　figures　of　my　own；　but　give　official　onesthose　of　Commander　Wilkes；
U。S。N。；　who　surveyed　it　and　testifies　that　it　is　twenty…seven　miles　in
circumference！　　If　it　had　a　level　bottom　it　would　make　a　fine　site　for　a
city　like　London。　　It　must　have　afforded　a　spectacle　worth　contemplating
in　the　old　days　when　its　furnaces　gave　full　rein　to　their　anger。

Presently　vagrant　white　clouds　came　drifting　along；　high　over　the　sea　and
the　valley；　then　they　came　in　couples　and　groups；　then　in　imposing
squadrons；　gradually　joining　their　forces；　they　banked　themselves　solidly
together；　a　thousand　feet　under　us；　and　totally　shut　out　land　and　ocean
not　a　vestige　of　anything　was　left　in　view　but　just　a　little　of　the　rim
of　the　crater；　circling　away　from　the　pinnacle　whereon　we　sat　（for　a
ghostly　procession　of　wanderers　from　the　filmy　hosts　without　had　drifted
through　a　chasm　in　the　crater　wall　and　filed　round　and　round；　and
gathered　and　sunk　and　blended　together　till　the　abyss　was　stored　to　the
brim　with　a　fleecy　fog）。　　Thus　banked；　motion　ceased；　and　silence
reigned。　　Clear　to　the　horizon；　league　on　league；　the　snowy　floor
stretched　without　a　breaknot　level；　but　in　rounded　folds；　with　shallow
creases　between；　and　with　here　and　there　stately　piles　of　vapory
architecture　lifting　themselves　aloft　out　of　the　common　plainsome　near
at　hand；　some　in　the　middle　distances；　and　others　relieving　the　monotony
of　the　remote　solitudes。　　There　was　little　conversation；　for　the
impressive　scene　overawed　speech。　　I　felt　like　the　Last　Man；　neglected　of
the　judgment；　and　left　pinnacled　in　mid…heaven；　a　forgotten　relic　of　a
vanished　world。

While　the　hush　yet　brooded；　the　messengers　of　the　coming　resurrection
appeared　in　the　East。　　A　growing　warmth　suffused　the　horizon；　and　soon
the　sun　emerged　and　looked　out　over　the　cloud…waste；　flinging　bars　of
ruddy　light　across　it；　staining　its　folds　and　billow…caps　with　blushes；
purpling　the　shaded　troughs　between；　and　glorifying　the　massy　vapor…
palaces　and　cathedrals　with　a　wasteful　splendor　of　all　blendings　and
combinations　of　rich　coloring。

It　was　the　sublimest　spectacle　I　ever　witnessed；　and　I　think　the　memory
of　it　will　remain　with　me　always。




CHAPTER　LXXVII。

I　stumbled　upon　one　curious　character　in　the　Island　of　Mani。　　He　became　a
sore　annoyance　to　me　in　the　course　of　time。　　My　first　glimpse　of　him　was
in　a　sort　of　public　room　in　the　town　of　Lahaina。　　He　occupied　a　chair　at
the　opposite　side　of　the　apartment；　and　sat　eyeing　our　party　with
interest　for　some　minutes；　and　listening　as　critically　to　what　we　were
saying　as　if　he　fancied　we　were　talking　to　him　and　expecting　him　to
reply。　　I　thought　it　very　sociable　in　a　stranger。　　Presently；　in　the
course　of　conversation；　I　made　a　statement　bearing　upon　the　subject　under
discussionand　I　made　it　with　due　modesty；　for　there　was　nothing
extraordinary　about　it；　and　it　was　only　put　forth　in　illustration　of　a
point　at　issue。　　I　had　barely　finished　when　this　person　spoke　out　with
rapid　utterance　and　feverish　anxiety：

〃Oh；　that　was　certainly　remarkable；　after　a　fashion；　but　you　ought　to
have　seen　my　chimneyyou　ought　to　have　seen　my　chimney；　sir！　　Smoke！
I　wish　I　may　hang　ifMr。　Jones；　you　remember　that　chimneyyou　must
remember　that　chimney！　　No；　noI　recollect；　now；　you　warn't　living　on
this　side　of　the　island　then。　　But　I　am　telling　you　nothing　but　the
truth；　and　I　wish　I　may　never　draw　another　breath　if　that　chimney　didn't
smoke　so　that　the　smoke　actually　got　caked　in　it　and　I　had　to　dig　it　out
with　a　pickaxe！　　You　may　smile；　gentlemen；　but　the　High　Sheriff's　got　a
hunk　of　it　which　I　dug　out　before　his　eyes；　and　so　it's　perfectly　easy
for　you　to　go　and　examine　for　yourselves。〃

The　interruption　broke　up　the　conversation；　which　had　already　begun　to
lag；　and　we　presently　hired　some　natives　and　an　out…rigger　canoe　or　two；
and　went　out　to　overlook　a　grand　surf…bathing　contest。

Two　weeks　after　this；　while　talking　in　a　company；　I　looked　up　and
detected　this　same　man　boring　through　and　through　me　with　his　intense
eye；　and　noted　again　his　twitching　muscles　and　his　feverish　anxiety　to
speak。　　The　moment　I　paused；　he　said：

〃Beg　your　pardon；　sir；　beg　your　pardon；　but　it　can　only　be　considered
remarkable　when　brought　into　strong　outline　by　isolation。　　Sir；
contrasted　with　a　circumstance　which　occurred　in　my　own　experience；　it
instantly　becomes　commonplace。　　No；　not　thatfor　I　will　not　speak　so
discourteously　of　any　experience　in　the　career　of　a　stranger　and　a
gentlemanbut　I　am　obliged　to　say　that　you　could　not；　and　you　would　not
ever　again　refer　to　this　tree　as　a　large　one；　if　you　could　behold；　as　I
have；　the　great　Yakmatack　tree；　in　the　island　of　Ounaska；　sea　of
Kamtchatkaa　tree；　sir；　not　one　inch　less　than　four　hundred　and　fifteen
feet　in　solid　diameter！and　I　wish　I　may　die　in　a　minute　if　it　isn