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declared; or to blow finally off; living in the meanwhile in 

a kind of children's hour of firelight and shadow and 

preposterous tales; the king seen at night galloping up our 

road upon unknown errands and covering his face as he passes 

our cook; Mataafa daily surrounded (when he awakes) with 

fresh 'white man's boxes' (query; ammunition?) and professing 

to be quite ignorant of where they come from; marches of 

bodies of men across the island; concealment of ditto in the 

bush; the coming on and off of different chiefs; and such a 

mass of ravelment and rag…tag as the devil himself could not 

unwind。





WEDNESDAY; 28TH JUNE。





Yesterday it rained with but little intermission; but I was 

jealous of news。  Graham and I got into the saddle about 1 

o'clock and off down to town。  In town; there was nothing but 

rumours going; in the night drums had been beat; the men had 

run to arms on Mulinuu from as far as Vaiala; and the alarm 

proved false。  There were no signs of any gathering in Apia 

proper; and the Secretary of State had no news to give。  I 

believed him; too; for we are brither Scots。  Then the 

temptation came upon me strong to go on to the ford and see 

the Mataafa villages; where we heard there was more afoot。  

Off we rode。  When we came to Vaimusu; the houses were very 

full of men; but all seemingly unarmed。  Immediately beyond 

is that river over which we passed in our scamper with Lady 

Jersey; it was all solitary。  Three hundred yards beyond is a 

second ford; and there … I came face to face with war。  Under 

the trees on the further bank sat a picket of seven men with 

Winchesters; their faces bright; their eyes ardent。  As we 

came up; they did not speak or move; only their eyes followed 

us。  The horses drank; and we passed the ford。  'Talofa!' I 

said; and the commandant of the picket said 'Talofa'; and 

then; when we were almost by; remembered himself and asked 

where we were going。  'To Faamuina;' I said; and we rode on。  

Every house by the wayside was crowded with armed men。  There 

was the European house of a Chinaman on the right…hand side: 

a flag of truce flying over the gate … indeed we saw three of 

these in what little way we penetrated into Mataafa's lines … 

all the foreigners trying to protect their goods; and the 

Chinaman's verandah overflowed with men and girls and 

Winchesters。  By the way we met a party of about ten or a 

dozen marching with their guns and cartridge…belts; and the 

cheerful alacrity and brightness of their looks set my head 

turning with envy and sympathy。  Arrived at Vaiusu; the 

houses about the MALAE (village green) were thronged with 

men; all armed。  On the outside of the council…house (which 

was all full within) there stood an orator; he had his back 

turned to his audience; and seemed to address the world at 

large; all the time we were there his strong voice continued 

unabated; and I heard snatches of political wisdom rising and 

falling。



The house of Faamuina stands on a knoll in the MALAE。  

Thither we mounted; a boy ran out and took our horses; and we 

went in。  Faamuina was there himself; his wife Pelepa; three 

other chiefs; and some attendants; and here again was this 

exulting spectacle as of people on their marriage day。  

Faamuina (when I last saw him) was an elderly; limping 

gentleman; with much of the debility of age; it was a bright…

eyed boy that greeted me; the lady was no less excited; all 

had cartridge…belts。  We stayed but a little while to smoke a 

sului; I would not have kava made; as I thought my escapade 

was already dangerous (perhaps even blameworthy) enough。  On 

the way back; we were much greeted; and on coming to the 

ford; the commandant came and asked me if there were many on 

the other side。  'Very many;' said I; not that I knew; but I 

would not lead them on the ice。  'That is well!' said he; and 

the little picket laughed aloud as we splashed into the 

river。  We returned to Apia; through Apia; and out to 

windward as far as Vaiala; where the word went that the men 

of the Vaimauga had assembled。  We met two boys carrying 

pigs; and saw six young men busy cooking in a cook…house; but 

no sign of an assembly; no arms; no blackened faces。  I 

forgot!  As we turned to leave Faamuina's; there ran forward 

a man with his face blackened; and the back of his lava…lava 

girded up so as to show his tattooed hips naked; he leaped 

before us; cut a wonderful caper; and flung his knife high in 

the air; and caught it。  It was strangely savage and 

fantastic and high…spirited。  I have seen a child doing the 

same antics long before in a dance; so that it is plainly an 

ACCEPTED SOLEMNITY。  I should say that for weeks the children 

have been playing with spears。  Up by the plantation I took a 

short cut; which shall never be repeated; through grass and 

weeds over the horses' heads and among rolling stones; I 

thought we should have left a horse there; but fortune 

favoured us。  So home; a little before six; in a dashing 

squall of rain; to a bowl of kava and dinner。  But the 

impression on our minds was extraordinary; the sight of that 

picket at the ford; and those ardent; happy faces whirls in 

my head; the old aboriginal awoke in both of us and knickered 

like a stallion。



It is dreadful to think that I must sit apart here and do 

nothing; I do not know if I can stand it out。  But you see; I 

may be of use to these poor people; if I keep quiet; and if I 

threw myself in; I should have a bad job of it to save 

myself。  There; I have written this to you; and it is still 

but 7。30 in the day; and the sun only about one hour up; can 

I go back to my old grandpapa; and men sitting with 

Winchesters in my mind's eye?  No; war is a huge 

ENTRAINEMENT; there is no other temptation to be compared to 

it; not one。  We were all wet; we had been about five hours 

in the saddle; mostly riding hard; and we came home like 

schoolboys; with such a lightness of spirits; and I am sure 

such a brightness of eye; as you could have lit a candle at!





THURSDAY 29TH。





I had two priests to luncheon yesterday: the Bishop and Pere 

Remy。  They were very pleasant; and quite clean too; which 

has been known sometimes not to be … even with bishops。  

Monseigneur is not unimposing; with his white beard and his 

violet girdle he looks splendidly episcopal; and when our 

three waiting lads came up one after another and kneeled 

before him in the big hall; and kissed his ring; it did me 

good for a piece of pageantry。  Remy is very engaging; he is 

a little; nervous; eager man; like a governess; and brimful 

of laughter and small jokes。  So is the bishop indeed; and 

our luncheon party went off merrily … far more merrily than 

many a German spread; though with so much less liquor。  One 

trait was delicious。  With a complete ignorance of the 

Protestant that I would scarce have imagined; he related to 

us (as news) little stories from the gospels; and got the 

names all wrong!  His comments were delicious; and to our 

ears a thought irreverent。  'AH! IL CONNAISSAIT SON MONDE; 

ALLEZ!'  'IL ETAIT FIN; NOTRE SEIGNEUR!' etc。





FRIDAY。





Down with Fanny and Belle; to lunch at the International。  

Heard there about the huge folly of the hour; all the Mulinuu 

ammunition having been yesterday marched openly to vaults in 

Matafele; and this morning; on a cry of protest from the 

whites; openly and humiliatingly disinterred and marched back 

again。  People spoke of it with a kind of shrill note that 

did not quite satisfy me。  They seemed not quite well at 

ease。  Luncheon over; we rode out on the Malie road。  All was 

quiet in Vaiusu; and when we got to the second ford; alas! 

there was no picket … which was just what Belle had come to 

sketch。  On through quite empty roads; the houses deserted; 

never a gun to be seen; and at last a drum and a penny 

whistle playing in Vaiusu; and a cricket match on the MALAE!  

Went up to Faamuina's; he is a trifle uneasy; though he gives 

us kava。  I cannot see what ails him; then it appears that he 

has an engagement with the Chief Justice at half…past two to 

sell a piece of land。  Is this the reason why war has 

disappeared?  We ride back; stopping to sketch here and there 

the fords; a flag of truce; etc。  I ride on to Public Hall 

Committee and pass an hour with my committees very heavily。  

To the hotel to dinner; then to the ball; and home by eleven; 

very tired。  At the ball I heard some news; of how the chief 

of Letonu said that I was the source of all this trouble; and 

should be punished; and my family as well。  This; and the 

rudeness of the man at the ford of the Gase…gase; looks but 

ill; I should have said that Faamuina; as he approached the 

first ford; was spoken to by a girl; and immediately said 

goodbye and plunged into the bush; the girl had tol

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