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was made to me which he must translate; and I made a speech 

in answer which he had to orate; full…breathed; to that big 

circle; he blushed through his dark skin; but looked and 

acted like a gentleman and a young fellow of sense; then the 

kava came to the King; he poured one drop in libation; drank 

another; and flung the remainder outside the house behind 

him。  Next came the turn of the old shapeless stone marked T。  

It stands for one of the King's titles; Tamasoalii; Mataafa 

is Tamasoalii this day; but cannot drink for it; and the 

stone must first be washed with water; and then have the bowl 

emptied on it。  Then … the order I cannot recall … came the 

turn of y and z; two orators of the name of Malietoa; the 

first took his kava down plain; like an ordinary man; the 

second must be packed to bed under a big sheet of tapa; and 

be massaged by anxious assistants and rise on his elbow 

groaning to drink his cup。  W。; a great hereditary war man; 

came next; five times the cup…bearers marched up and down the 

house and passed the cup on; five times it was filled and the 

General's name and titles heralded at the bowl; and five 

times he refused it (after examination) as too small。  It is 

said this commemorates a time when Malietoa at the head of 

his army suffered much for want of supplies。  Then this same 

military gentleman must DRINK five cups; one from each of the 

great names: all which took a precious long time。  He acted 

very well; haughtily and in a society tone OUTLINING THE 

part。  The difference was marked when he subsequently made a 

speech in his own character as a plain God…fearing chief。  A 

few more high chiefs; then Tusitala; one more; and then Lady 

Jersey; one more; and then Captain Leigh; and so on with the 

rest of our party … Henry of course excepted。  You see in 

public; Lady Jersey followed me … just so far was the secret 

kept。



Then we came home; Belle; Graham and Lloyd to the Chinaman's; 

I with Lady Jersey; to lunch; so severally home。  Thursday I 

have forgotten: Saturday; I began again on Davie; on Sunday; 

the Jersey party came up to call and carried me to dinner。  

As I came out; to ride home; the search…lights of the CURACOA 

were lightening on the horizon from many miles away; and next 

morning she came in。  Tuesday was huge fun: a reception at 

Haggard's。  All our party dined there; Lloyd and I; in the 

absence of Haggard and Leigh; had to play aide…de…camp and 

host for about twenty minutes; and I presented the population 

of Apia at random but (luck helping) without one mistake。  

Wednesday we had two middies to lunch。  Thursday we had Eeles 

and Hoskyn (lieutenant and doctor … very; very nice fellows … 

simple; good and not the least dull) to dinner。  Saturday; 

Graham and I lunched on board; Graham; Belle; Lloyd dined at 

the G。's; and Austin and the WHOLE of our servants went with 

them to an evening entertainment; the more bold returning by 

lantern…light。  Yesterday; Sunday; Belle and I were off by 

about half past eight; left our horses at a public house; and 

went on board the CURACOA in the wardroom skiff; were 

entertained in the wardroom; thence on deck to the service; 

which was a great treat; three fiddles and a harmonium and 

excellent choir; and the great ship's company joining: on 

shore in Haggard's big boat to lunch with the party。  Thence 

all together to Vailima; where we read aloud a Ouida Romance 

we have been secretly writing; in which Haggard was the hero; 

and each one of the authors had to draw a portrait of him or 

herself in a Ouida light。  Leigh; Lady J。; Fanny; R。L。S。; 

Belle and Graham were the authors。



In the midst of this gay life; I have finally recopied two 

chapters; and drafted for the first time three of Davie 

Balfour。  But it is not a life that would continue to suit 

me; and if I have not continued to write to you; you will 

scarce wonder。  And to…day we all go down again to dinner; 

and to…morrow they all come up to lunch!  The world is too 

much with us。  But it now nears an end; to…day already the 

CURACOA has sailed; and on Saturday or Sunday Lady Jersey 

will follow them in the mail steamer。  I am sending you a 

wire by her hands as far as Sydney; that is to say either you 

or Cassell; about FALESA: I will not allow it to be called 

UMA in book form; that is not the logical name of the story。  

Nor can I have the marriage contract omitted; and the thing 

is full of misprints abominable。  In the picture; Uma is rot; 

so is the old man and the negro; but Wiltshire is splendid; 

and Case will do。  It seems badly illuminated; but this may 

be printing。  How have I seen this first number?  Not through 

your attention; guilty one!  Lady Jersey had it; and only 

mentioned it yesterday。



I ought to say how much we all like the Jersey party。  My boy 

Henry was enraptured with the manners of the TAWAITAI SILI 

(chief lady)。  Among our other occupations; I did a bit of a 

supposed epic describing our tryst at the ford of the 

Gasegase; and Belle and I made a little book of caricatures 

and verses about incidents on the visit。





TUESDAY。





The wild round of gaiety continues。  After I had written to 

you yesterday; the brain being wholly extinct; I played 

piquet all morning with Graham。  After lunch down to call on 

the U。S。 Consul; hurt in a steeple…chase; thence back to the 

new girls' school which Lady J。 was to open; and where my 

ladies met me。  Lady J。 is really an orator; with a voice of 

gold; the rest of us played our unremarked parts; 

missionaries; Haggard; myself; a Samoan chief; holding forth 

in turn; myself with (at least) a golden brevity。  Thence; 

Fanny; Belle; and I to town; to our billiard room in 

Haggard's back garden; where we found Lloyd and where Graham 

joined us。  The three men first dressed; with the ladies in a 

corner; and then; to leave them a free field; we went off to 

Haggard and Leigh's quarters; where … after all to dinner; 

where our two parties; a brother of Colonel Kitchener's; a 

passing globe…trotter; and Clarke the missionary。  A very gay 

evening; with all sorts of chaff and mirth; and a moonlit 

ride home; and to bed before 12。30。  And now to…day; we have 

the Jersey…Haggard troupe to lunch; and I must pass the 

morning dressing ship。





THURSDAY; SEPT。 1ST。





I sit to write to you now; 7。15; all the world in bed except 

myself; accounted for; and Belle and Graham; down at 

Haggard's at dinner。  Not a leaf is stirring here; but the 

moon overhead (now of a good bigness) is obscured and partly 

revealed in a whirling covey of thin storm…clouds。  By Jove; 

it blows above。



From 8 till 11。15 on Tuesday; I dressed ship; and in 

particular cleaned crystal; my specially。  About 11。30 the 

guests began to arrive before I was dressed; and between 

while I had written a parody for Lloyd to sing。  Yesterday; 

Wednesday; I had to start out about 3 for town; had a long 

interview with the head of the German Firm about some work in 

my new house; got over to Lloyd's billiard…room about six; on 

the way whither I met Fanny and Belle coming down with one 

Kitchener; a brother of the Colonel's。  Dined in the 

billiard…room; discovered we had forgot to order oatmeal; 

whereupon; in the moonlit evening; I set forth in my tropical 

array; mess jacket and such; to get the oatmeal; and meet a 

young fellow C。 … and not a bad young fellow either; only an 

idiot … as drunk as Croesus。  He wept with me; he wept for 

me; he talked like a bad character in an impudently bad 

farce; I could have laughed aloud to hear; and could make you 

laugh by repeating; but laughter was not uppermost。



This morning at about seven; I set off after the lost sheep。  

I could have no horse; all that could be mounted … we have 

one girth…sore and one dead…lame in the establishment … were 

due at a picnic about 10。30。  The morning was very wet; and I 

set off barefoot; with my trousers over my knees; and a 

macintosh。  Presently I had to take a side path in the bush; 

missed it; came forth in a great oblong patch of taro 

solemnly surrounded by forest … no soul; no sign; no sound … 

and as I stood there at a loss; suddenly between the showers 

out broke the note of a harmonium and a woman's voice singing 

an air that I know very well; but have (as usual) forgot the 

name of。  'Twas from a great way off; but seemed to fill the 

world。  It was strongly romantic; and gave me a point which 

brought me; by all sorts of forest wading; to an open space 

of palms。  These were of all ages; but mostly at that age 

when the branches arch from the ground level; range 

themselves; with leaves exquisitely green。  The whole 

interspace was overgrown with convolvulus; purple; yellow and 

white; often as deep as to my waist; in which I floundered 

aimlessly。  The very mountain was invisible from here。

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