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possible。





MONDAY 25TH。





We have had a devil of a morning of upset and bustle; the 

bronze candlestick Faauma has returned to the family; in time 

to take her position of stepmamma; and it is pretty to see 

how the child is at once at home; and all her terrors ended。





27TH。  MAIL DAY。





And I don't know that I have much to report。  I may have to 

leave for Malie as soon as these mail packets are made up。  

'Tis a necessity (if it be one) I rather deplore。  I think I 

should have liked to lazy; but I daresay all it means is the 

delay of a day or so in harking back to David Balfour; that 

respectable youth chides at being left (where he is now) in 

Glasgow with the Lord Advocate; and after five years in the 

British Linen; who shall blame him?  I was all forenoon 

yesterday down in Apia;' dictating; and Lloyd type…writing; 

the conclusion of SAMOA; and then at home correcting till the 

dinner bell; and in the evening again till eleven of the 

clock。  This morning I have made up most of my packets; and I 

think my mail is all ready but two more; and the tag of this。  

I would never deny (as D。 B might say) that I was rather 

tired of it。  But I have a damned good dose of the devil in 

my pipe…stem atomy; I have had my little holiday outing in my 

kick at THE YOUNG CHEVALIER; and I guess I can settle to 

DAVID BALFOUR to…morrow or Friday like a little man。  I 

wonder if any one had ever more energy upon so little 

strength? … I know there is a frost; the Samoa book can only 

increase that … I can't help it; that book is not written for 

me but for Miss Manners; but I mean to break that frost 

inside two years; and pull off a big success; and Vanity 

whispers in my ear that I have the strength。  If I haven't; 

whistle ower the lave o't!  I can do without glory and 

perhaps the time is not far off when I can do without corn。  

It is a time coming soon enough; anyway; and I have endured 

some two and forty years without public shame; and had a good 

time as I did it。  If only I could secure a violent death; 

what a fine success!  I wish to die in my boots; no more Land 

of Counterpane for me。  To be drowned; to be shot; to be 

thrown from a horse … ay; to be hanged; rather than pass 

again through that slow dissolution。



I fancy this gloomy ramble is caused by a twinge of age; I 

put on an under…shirt yesterday (it was the only one I could 

find) that barely came under my trousers; and just below it; 

a fine healthy rheumatism has now settled like a fire in my 

hip。  From such small causes do these valuable considerations 

flow!



I shall now say adieu; dear Sir; having ten rugged miles 

before me and the horrors of a native feast and parliament 

without an interpreter; for to…day I go alone。



Yours ever;

R。 L S。







CHAPTER XIX







SUNDAY; 29TH MAY。





HOW am I to overtake events?  On Wednesday; as soon as my 

mail was finished; I had a wild whirl to look forward to。  

Immediately after dinner; Belle; Lloyd and I; set out on 

horseback; they to the club; I to Haggard's; thence to the 

hotel where I had supper ready for them。  All next day we 

hung round Apia with our whole house…crowd in Sunday array; 

hoping for the mail steamer with a menagerie on board。  No 

such luck; the ship delayed; and at last; about three; I had 

to send them home again; a failure of a day's pleasuring that 

does not bear to be discussed。  Lloyd was so sickened that he 

returned the same night to Vailima; Belle and I held on; sat 

most of the evening on the hotel verandah stricken silly with 

fatigue and disappointment; and genuine sorrow for our poor 

boys and girls; and got to bed with rather dismal 

appreciations of the morrow。



These were more than justified; and yet I never had a jollier 

day than Friday 27th。  By 7。30 Belle and I had breakfast; we 

had scarce done before my mother was at the door on 

horseback; and a boy at her heels to take her not very 

dashing charger home again。  By 8。10 we were all on the 

landing pier; and it was 9。20 before we had got away in a 

boat with two inches of green wood on the keel of her; no 

rudder; no mast; no sail; no boat flag; two defective 

rowlocks; two wretched apologies for oars; and two boys … one 

a Tongan half…caste; one a white lad; son of the Tonga 

schoolmaster; and a sailor lad … to pull us。  All this was 

our first taste of the tender mercies of Taylor (the 

sesquipidalian half…caste introduced two letters back; I 

believe)。  We had scarce got round Mulinuu when Sale Taylor's 

heart misgave him; he thought we had missed the tide; called 

a halt; and set off ashore to find canoes。  Two were found; 

in one my mother and I were embarked with the two biscuit 

tins (my present to the feast); and the bag with our dry 

clothes; on which my mother was perched … and her cap was on 

the top of it … feminine hearts please sympathise; all under 

the guidance of Sale。  In the other Belle and our guest; 

Tauilo; a chief…woman; the mother of my cook; were to have 

followed。  And the boys were to have been left with the boat。  

But Tauilo refused。  And the four; Belle; Tauilo; Frank the 

sailor…boy; and Jimmie the Tongan half…caste; set off in the 

boat across that rapidly shoaling bay of the lagoon。



How long the next scene lasted; I could never tell。  Sale was 

always trying to steal away with our canoe and leave the 

other four; probably for six hours; in an empty; leaky boat; 

without so much as an orange or a cocoanut on board; and 

under the direct rays of the sun。  I had at last to stop him 

by taking the spare paddle off the out…rigger and sticking it 

in the ground … depth; perhaps two feet … width of the bay; 

say three miles。  At last I bid him land me and my mother and 

go back for the other ladies。  'The coast is so rugged;' said 

Sale。 … 'What?' I said; 'all these villages and no landing 

place?' … 'Such is the nature of Samoans;' said he。  Well; 

I'll find a landing…place; I thought; and presently I said; 

'Now we are going to land there。' … 'We can but try;' said 

the bland Sale; with resignation。  Never saw a better 

landing…place in my life。  Here the boat joined us。  My 

mother and Sale continued in the canoe alone; and Belle and I 

and Tauilo set off on foot for Malie。  Tauilo was about the 

size of both of us put together and a piece over; she used us 

like a mouse with children。  I had started barefoot; Belle 

had soon to pull off her gala shoes and stockings; the mud 

was as deep as to our knees; and so slippery that (moving; as 

we did; in Indian file; between dense scratching tufts of 

sensitive) Belle and I had to take hands to support each 

other; and Tauilo was steadying Belle from the rear。  You can 

conceive we were got up to kill; Belle in an embroidered 

white dress and white hat; I in a suit of Bedford cords hot 

from the Sydney tailors; and conceive us; below; ink…black to 

the knees with adhesive clay; and above; streaming with heat。  

I suppose it was better than three miles; but at last we made 

the end of Malie。  I asked if we could find no water to wash 

our feet; and our nursemaid guided us to a pool。  We sat down 

on the pool side; and our nursemaid washed our feet and legs 

for us … ladies first; I suppose out of a sudden respect to 

the insane European fancies: such a luxury as you can scarce 

imagine。  I felt a new man after it。  But before we got to 

the King's house we were sadly muddied once more。  It was 1 

P。M。 when we arrived; the canoe having beaten us by about 

five minutes; so we made fair time over our bog…holes。



But the war dances were over; and we came in time to see only 

the tail end (some two hours) of the food presentation。  In 

Mataafa's house three chairs were set for us covered with 

fine mats。  Of course; a native house without the blinds down 

is like a verandah。  All the green in front was surrounded 

with sheds; some of flapping canvas; some of green palm 

boughs; where (in three sides of a huge oblong) the natives 

sat by villages in a fine glow of many…hued array。  There 

were folks in tapa; and folks in patchwork; there was every 

colour of the rainbow in a spot or a cluster; there were men 

with their heads gilded with powdered sandal…wood; others 

with heads all purple; stuck full of the petals of a flower。  

In the midst there was a growing field of outspread food; 

gradually covering acres; the gifts were brought in; now by 

chanting deputations; now by carriers in a file; they were 

brandished aloft and declaimed over; with polite sacramental 

exaggerations; by the official receiver。  He; a stalwart; 

well…oiled quadragenarian; shone with sweat from his 

exertions; brandishing cooked pigs。  At intervals; from one 

of the squatted villages; an orator would arise。  The field 

was almost beyond the reach of any human speaking voice; the 

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