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received with the most friendly consideration by the rebel 

chief。  Belle and Fanny were obviously thought to be my two 

wives; they were served their kava together; as were Mataafa 

and myself。  Talolo utterly broke down as interpreter; long 

speeches were made to me by Mataafa and his orators; of which 

he could make nothing but they were 'very much surprised' … 

his way of pronouncing obliged … and as he could understand 

nothing that fell from me except the same form of words; the 

dialogue languished and all business had to be laid aside。  

We had kava; and then a dish of arrowroot; one end of the 

house was screened off for us with a fine tapa; and we lay 

and slept; the three of us heads and tails; upon the mats 

till dinner。  After dinner his illegitimate majesty and 

myself had a walk; and talked as well as my twopenny Samoan 

would admit。  Then there was a dance to amuse the ladies 

before the house; and we came back by moonlight; the sky 

piled full of high faint clouds that long preserved some of 

the radiance of the sunset。  The lagoon was very shallow; we 

continually struck; for the moon was young and the light 

baffling; and for a long time we were accompanied by; and 

passed and re…passed; a huge whale…boat from Savaii; pulling 

perhaps twelve oars; and containing perhaps forty people who 

sang in time as they went So to the hotel; where we slept; 

and returned the next Tuesday morning on the three same 

steeds。



Meanwhile my business was still untransacted。  And on 

Saturday morning; I sent down and arranged with Charlie 

Taylor to go down that afternoon。  I had scarce got the 

saddle bags fixed and had not yet mounted; when the rain 

began。  But it was no use delaying now; off I went in a wild 

waterspout to Apia; found Charlie (Sale) Taylor … a 

sesquipedalian young half…caste … not yet ready; had a snack 

of bread and cheese at the hotel while waiting him; and then 

off to Malie。  It rained all the way; seven miles; the road; 

which begins in triumph; dwindles down to a nasty; boggy; 

rocky footpath with weeds up to a horseman's knees; and there 

are eight pig fences to jump; nasty beastly jumps … the next 

morning we found one all messed with blood where a horse had 

come to grief … but my Jack is a clever fencer; and 

altogether we made good time; and got to Malie about dark。  

It is a village of very fine native houses; high; domed; oval 

buildings; open at the sides; or only closed with slatted 

Venetians。  To be sure; Mataafa's is not the worst。  It was 

already quite dark within; only a little fire of cocoa…shell 

blazed in the midst and showed us four servants; the chief 

was in his chapel; whence we heard the sound of chaunting。  

Presently he returned; Taylor and I had our soaking clothes 

changed; family worship was held; kava brewed; I was 

exhibited to the chiefs as a man who had ridden through all 

that rain and risked deportation to serve their master; they 

were bidden learn my face; and remember upon all occasions to 

help and serve me。  Then dinner; and politics; and fine 

speeches until twelve at night … O; and some more kava … when 

I could sit up no longer; my usual bed…time is eight; you 

must remember。  Then one end of the house was screened off 

for me alone; and a bed made … you never saw such a couch … I 

believe of nearly fifty (half at least) fine mats; by 

Mataafa's daughter; Kalala。  Here I reposed alone; and on the 

other side of the tafa; Majesty and his household。  Armed 

guards and a drummer patrolled about the house all night; 

they had no shift; poor devils; but stood to arms from sun…

down to sun…up。



About four in the morning; I was awakened by the sound of a 

whistle pipe blown outside on the dark; very softly and to a 

pleasing simple air; I really think I have hit the first 

phrase:



'Fragment of music score which cannot be reproduced'



It sounded very peaceful; sweet and strange in the dark; and 

I found this was a part of the routine of my rebel's night; 

and it was done (he said) to give good dreams。  By a little 

before six; Taylor and I were in the saddle again fasting。  

My riding boots were so wet I could not get them on; so I 

must ride barefoot。  The morning was fair but the roads very 

muddy; the weeds soaked us nearly to the waist; Sale was 

twice spilt at the fences; and we got to Apia a bedraggled 

enough pair。  All the way along the coast; the pate (small 

wooden drum) was beating in the villages and the people 

crowding to the churches in their fine clothes。  Thence 

through the mangrove swamp; among the black mud and the green 

mangroves; and the black and scarlet crabs; to Mulinuu; to 

the doctor's; where I had an errand; and so to the inn to 

breakfast about nine。  After breakfast I rode home。  Conceive 

such an outing; remember the pallid brute that lived in 

Skerryvore like a weevil in a biscuit; and receive the 

intelligence that I was rather the better for my journey。  

Twenty miles ride; sixteen fences taken; ten of the miles in 

a drenching rain; seven of them fasting and in the morning 

chill; and six stricken hours' political discussions by an 

interpreter; to say nothing of sleeping in a native house; at 

which many of our excellent literati would look askance of 

itself。



You are to understand: if I take all this bother; it is not 

only from a sense of duty; or a love of meddling … damn the 

phrase; take your choice … but from a great affection for 

Mataafa。  He is a beautiful; sweet old fellow; and he and I 

grew quite fulsome on Saturday night about our sentiments。  I 

had a messenger from him to…day with a flannel undershirt 

which I had left behind like a gibbering idiot; and 

perpetrated in reply another baboo letter。  It rains again 

to…day without mercy; blessed; welcome rains; making up for 

the paucity of the late wet season; and when the showers 

slacken; I can hear my stream roaring in the hollow; and tell 

myself that the cacaos are drinking deep。  I am desperately 

hunted to finish my Samoa book before the mail goes; this 

last chapter is equally delicate and necessary。  The prayers 

of the congregation are requested。  Eheu! and it will be 

ended before this letter leaves and printed in the States ere 

you can read this scribble。  The first dinner gong has 

sounded; JE VOUS SALUE; MONSIEUR ET CHER CONFRERE。  TOFA; 

SOIFUA!  Sleep! long life! as our Samoan salutation of 

farewell runs。





FRIDAY; MAY 13TH。





Well; the last chapter; by far the most difficult and 

ungrateful; is well under way; I have been from six to seven 

hours upon it daily since I last wrote; and that is all I 

have done forbye working at Samoan rather hard; and going 

down on Wednesday evening to the club。  I make some progress 

now at the language; I am teaching Belle; which clears and 

exercises myself。  I am particularly taken with the FINESSE 

of the pronouns。  The pronouns are all dual and plural and 

the first person; both in the dual and plural; has a special 

exclusive and inclusive form。  You can conceive what fine 

effects of precision and distinction can be reached in 

certain cases。  Take Ruth; i。 VV。 8 to 13; and imagine how 

those pronouns come in; it is exquisitely elegant; and makes 

the mouth of the LITTERATEUR to water。  I am going to 

exercitate my pupil over those verses to…day for pronoun 

practice。





TUESDAY。





Yesterday came yours。  Well; well; if the dears prefer a 

week; why; I'll give them ten days; but the real document; 

from which I have scarcely varied; ran for one night。  I 

think you seem scarcely fair to Wiltshire; who had surely; 

under his beast…ignorant ways; right noble qualities。  And I 

think perhaps you scarce do justice to the fact that this is 

a place of realism A OUTRANCE; nothing extenuated or 

coloured。  Looked at so; is it not; with all its tragic 

features; wonderfully idyllic; with great beauty of scene and 

circumstance?  And will you please to observe that almost all 

that is ugly is in the whites?  I'll apologise for Papa 

Randal if you like; but if I told you the whole truth … for I 

did extenuate there! … and he seemed to me essential as a 

figure; and essential as a pawn in the game; Wiltshire's 

disgust for him being one of the small; efficient motives in 

the story。  Now it would have taken a fairish dose to disgust 

Wiltshire。 … Again; the idea of publishing the Beach 

substantively is dropped … at once; both on account of 

expostulation; and because it measured shorter than I had 

expected。  And it was only taken up; when the proposed 

volume; BEACH DE MAR; petered out。  It petered out thus: the 

chief of the short stories got sucked into SOPHIA SCARLET … 

and Sophia is a book I am much taken with; and mean to get 

to; as soon as … but not before … I have done DAVID BALFOUR 

and THE YOUNG CHEVALIER。  So you see you are li

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