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the fifth chapter of my History; fifty…nine pages in one 

month; which (you will allow me to say) is a devil of a large 

order; it means at least 177 pages of writing; 89;000 words! 

and hours going to and fro among my notes。  However; this is 

the way it has to be done; the job must be done fast; or it 

is of no use。  And it is a curious yarn。  Honestly; I think 

people should be amused and convinced; if they could be at 

the pains to look at such a damned outlandish piece of 

machinery; which of course they won't。  And much I care。



When I was filling baskets all Saturday; in my dull mulish 

way; perhaps the slowest worker there; surely the most 

particular; and the only one that never looked up or knocked 

off; I could not but think I should have been sent on 

exhibition as an example to young literary men。  Here is how 

to learn to write; might be the motto。  You should have seen 

us; the verandah was like an Irish bog; our hands and faces 

were bedaubed with soil; and Faauma was supposed to have 

struck the right note when she remarked (A PROPOS of 

nothing); 'Too much ELEELE (soil) for me!'  The cacao (you 

must understand) has to be planted at first in baskets of 

plaited cocoa…leaf。  From four to ten natives were plaiting 

these in the wood…shed。  Four boys were digging up soil and 

bringing it by the boxful to the verandah。  Lloyd and I and 

Belle; and sometimes S。 (who came to bear a hand); were 

filling the baskets; removing stones and lumps of clay; 

Austin and Faauma carried them when full to Fanny; who 

planted a seed in each; and then set them; packed close; in 

the corners of the verandah。  From twelve on Friday till five 

P。M。 on Saturday we planted the first 1500; and more than 700 

of a second lot。  You cannot dream how filthy we were; and we 

were all properly tired。  They are all at it again to…day; 

bar Belle and me; not required; and glad to be out of it。  

The Chief Justice has not yet replied; and I have news that 

he received my letter。  What a man!



I have gone crazy over Bourget's SENSATIONS D'ITALIE; hence 

the enclosed dedications; a mere cry of gratitude for the 

best fun I've had over a new book this ever so!







CHAPTER XIV







TUESDAY; DEC。 1891。





SIR; … I have the honour to report further explorations of 

the course of the river Vaea; with accompanying sketch plan。  

The party under my command consisted of one horse; and was 

extremely insubordinate and mutinous; owing to not being used 

to go into the bush; and being half…broken anyway … and that 

the wrong half。  The route indicated for my party was up the 

bed of the so…called river Vaea; which I accordingly followed 

to a distance of perhaps two or three furlongs eastward from 

the house of Vailima; where the stream being quite dry; the 

bush thick; and the ground very difficult; I decided to leave 

the main body of the force under my command tied to a tree; 

and push on myself with the point of the advance guard; 

consisting of one man。  The valley had become very narrow and 

airless; foliage close shut above; dry bed of the stream much 

excavated; so that I passed under fallen trees without 

stooping。  Suddenly it turned sharply to the north; at right 

angles to its former direction; I heard living water; and 

came in view of a tall face of rock and the stream spraying 

down it; it might have been climbed; but it would have been 

dangerous; and I had to make my way up the steep earth banks; 

where there is nowhere any footing for man; only fallen 

trees; which made the rounds of my ladder。  I was near the 

top of this climb; which was very hot and steep; and the 

pulses were buzzing all over my body; when I made sure there 

was one external sound in my ears; and paused to listen。  No 

mistake; a sound of a mill…wheel thundering; I thought; close 

by; yet below me; a huge mill…wheel; yet not going steadily; 

but with a SCHOTTISCHE movement; and at each fresh impetus 

shaking the mountain。  There; where I was; I just put down 

the sound to the mystery of the bush; where no sound now 

surprises me … and any sound alarms; I only thought it would 

give Jack a fine fright; down where he stood tied to a tree 

by himself; and he was badly enough scared when I left him。  

The good folks at home identified it; it was a sharp 

earthquake。



At the top of the climb I made my way again to the water…

course; it is here running steady and pretty full; strange 

these intermittencies … and just a little below the main 

stream is quite dry; and all the original brook has gone down 

some lava gallery of the mountain … and just a little further 

below; it begins picking up from the left hand in little 

boggy tributaries; and in the inside of a hundred yards has 

grown a brook again。  The general course of the brook was; I 

guess; S。E。; the valley still very deep and whelmed in wood。  

It seemed a swindle to have made so sheer a climb and still 

find yourself at the bottom of a well。  But gradually the 

thing seemed to shallow; the trees to seem poorer and 

smaller; I could see more and more of the silver sprinkles of 

sky among the foliage; instead of the sombre piling up of 

tree behind tree。  And here I had two scares … first; away up 

on my right hand I heard a bull low; I think it was a bull 

from the quality of the low; which was singularly songful and 

beautiful; the bulls belong to me; but how did I know that 

the bull was aware of that? and my advance guard not being at 

all properly armed; we advanced with great precaution until I 

was satisfied that I was passing eastward of the enemy。  It 

was during this period that a pool of the river suddenly 

boiled up in my face in a little fountain。  It was in a very 

dreary; marshy part among dilapidated trees that you see 

through holes in the trunks of; and if any kind of beast or 

elf or devil had come out of that sudden silver ebullition; I 

declare I do not think I should have been surprised。  It was 

perhaps a thing as curious … a fish; with which these head 

waters of the stream are alive。  They are some of them as 

long as my finger; should be easily caught in these shallows; 

and some day I'll have a dish of them。



Very soon after I came to where the stream collects in 

another banana swamp; with the bananas bearing well。  Beyond; 

the course is again quite dry; it mounts with a sharp turn a 

very steep face of the mountain; and then stops abruptly at 

the lip of a plateau; I suppose the top of Vaea mountain: 

plainly no more springs here … there was no smallest furrow 

of a watercourse beyond … and my task might be said to be 

accomplished。  But such is the animated spirit in the service 

that the whole advance guard expressed a sentiment of 

disappointment that an exploration; so far successfully 

conducted; should come to a stop in the most promising view 

of fresh successes。  And though unprovided either with 

compass or cutlass; it was determined to push some way along 

the plateau; marking our direction by the laborious process 

of bending down; sitting upon; and thus breaking the wild 

cocoanut trees。  This was the less regretted by all from a 

delightful discovery made of a huge banyan growing here in 

the bush; with flying…buttressed flying buttresses; and huge 

arcs of trunk hanging high overhead and trailing down new 

complications of root。  I climbed some way up what seemed the 

original beginning; it was easier to climb than a ship's 

rigging; even rattled; everywhere there was foot…hold and 

hand…hold。  It was judged wise to return and rally the main 

body; who had now been left alone for perhaps forty minutes 

in the bush。



The return was effected in good order; but unhappily I only 

arrived (like so many other explorers) to find my main body 

or rear…guard in a condition of mutiny; the work; it is to be 

supposed; of terror。  It is right I should tell you the Vaea 

has a bad name; an AITU FAFINE … female devil of the woods … 

succubus … haunting it; and doubtless Jack had heard of her; 

perhaps; during my absence; saw her; lucky Jack!  Anyway; he 

was neither to hold nor to bind; and finally; after nearly 

smashing me by accident; and from mere scare and 

insubordination several times; deliberately set in to kill 

me; but poor Jack! the tree he selected for that purpose was 

a banana!  I jumped off and gave him the heavy end of my whip 

over the buttocks!  Then I took and talked in his ear in 

various voices; you should have heard my alto … it was a 

dreadful; devilish note … I KNEW Jack KNEW it was an AITU。  

Then I mounted him again; and he carried me fairly steadily。  

He'll learn yet。  He has to learn to trust absolutely to his 

rider; till he does; the risk is always great in thick bush; 

where a fellow must try different passages; and put back and 

forward; and pick his way by hair's…breadths。



The expedit

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