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prevent any suggestion of unseemliness; the waitresses at
restaurants frequented by students are always carefully selected
from among a staid and elderly classy of women; by reason of which
the German student can enjoy the delights of flirtation without
fear and without reproach to anyone。

They are a law…abiding people; the Germans。



CHAPTER X



Baden from the visitor's point of viewBeauty of the early
morning; as viewed from the preceding afternoonDistance; as
measured by the compassDitto; as measured by the legGeorge in
account with his conscienceA lazy machineBicycling; according
to the poster:  its restfulnessThe poster cyclist:  its costume;
its methodThe griffin as a household petA dog with proper self…
respectThe horse that was abused。

From Baden; about which it need only be said that it is a pleasure
resort singularly like other pleasure resorts of the same
description; we started bicycling in earnest。  We planned a ten
days' tour; which; while completing the Black Forest; should
include a spin down the Donau…Thal; which for the twenty miles from
Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen is; perhaps; the finest valley in
Germany; the Danube stream here winding its narrow way past old…
world unspoilt villages; past ancient monasteries; nestling in
green pastures; where still the bare…footed and bare…headed friar;
his rope girdle tight about his loins; shepherds; with crook in
hand; his sheep upon the hill sides; through rocky woods; between
sheer walls of cliff; whose every towering crag stands crowned with
ruined fortress; church; or castle; together with a blick at the
Vosges mountains; where half the population is bitterly pained if
you speak to them in French; the other half being insulted when you
address them in German; and the whole indignantly contemptuous at
the first sound of English; a state of things that renders
conversation with the stranger somewhat nervous work。

We did not succeed in carrying out our programme in its entirety;
for the reason that human performance lags ever behind human
intention。  It is easy to say and believe at three o'clock in the
afternoon that:  〃We will rise at five; breakfast lightly at half…
past; and start away at six。〃

〃Then we shall be well on our way before the heat of the day sets
in;〃 remarks one。

〃This time of the year; the early morning is really the best part
of the day。  Don't you think so?〃 adds another。

〃Oh; undoubtedly。〃

〃So cool and fresh。〃

〃And the half…lights are so exquisite。〃

The first morning one maintains one's vows。  The party assembles at
half…past five。  It is very silent; individually; somewhat snappy;
inclined to grumble with its food; also with most other things; the
atmosphere charged with compressed irritability seeking its vent。
In the evening the Tempter's voice is heard:

〃I think if we got off by half…past six; sharp; that would be time
enough?〃

The voice of Virtue protests; faintly:  〃It will be breaking our
resolution。〃

The Tempter replies:  〃Resolutions were made for man; not man for
resolutions。〃  The devil can paraphrase Scripture for his own
purpose。  〃Besides; it is disturbing the whole hotel; think of the
poor servants。〃

The voice of Virtue continues; but even feebler:  〃But everybody
gets up early in these parts。〃

〃They would not if they were not obliged to; poor things!  Say
breakfast at half…past six; punctual; that will be disturbing
nobody。〃

Thus Sin masquerades under the guise of Good; and one sleeps till
six; explaining to one's conscience; who; however; doesn't believe
it; that one does this because of unselfish consideration for
others。  I have known such consideration extend until seven of the
clock。

Likewise; distance measured with a pair of compasses is not
precisely the same as when measured by the leg。

〃Ten miles an hour for seven hours; seventy miles。  A nice easy
day's work。〃

〃There are some stiff hills to climb?〃

〃The other side to come down。  Say; eight miles an hour; and call
it sixty miles。  Gott in Himmel! if we can't average eight miles an
hour; we had better go in bath…chairs。〃  It does seem somewhat
impossible to do less; on paper。

But at four o'clock in the afternoon the voice of Duty rings less
trumpet…toned:

〃Well; I suppose we ought to be getting on。〃

〃Oh; there's no hurry! don't fuss。  Lovely view from here; isn't
it?〃

〃Very。  Don't forget we are twenty…five miles from St。 Blasien。〃

〃How far?〃

〃Twenty…five miles; a little over if anything。〃

〃Do you mean to say we have only come thirty…five miles?〃

〃That's all。〃

〃Nonsense。  I don't believe that map of yours。〃

〃It is impossible; you know。  We have been riding steadily ever
since the first thing this morning。〃

〃No; we haven't。  We didn't get away till eight; to begin with。〃

〃Quarter to eight。〃

〃Well; quarter to eight; and every half…dozen miles we have
stopped。〃

〃We have only stopped to look at the view。  It's no good coming to
see a country; and then not seeing it。〃

〃And we have had to pull up some stiff hills。〃

〃Besides; it has been an exceptionally hot day to…day。〃

〃Well; don't forget St。 Blasien is twenty…five miles off; that's
all。〃

〃Any more hills?〃

〃Yes; two; up and down。〃

〃I thought you said it was downhill into St。 Blasien?〃

〃So it is for the last ten miles。  We are twenty…five miles from
St。 Blasien here。〃

〃Isn't there anywhere between here and St。 Blasien?  What's that
little place there on the lake?〃

〃It isn't St。 Blasien; or anywhere near it。  There's a danger in
beginning that sort of thing。〃

〃There's a danger in overworking oneself。  One should study
moderation in all things。  Pretty little place; that Titisee;
according to the map; looks as if there would be good air there。〃

〃All right; I'm agreeable。  It was you fellows who suggested our
making for St。 Blasien。〃

〃Oh; I'm not so keen on St。 Blasien! poky little place; down in a
valley。  This Titisee; I should say; was ever so much nicer。〃

〃Quite near; isn't it?〃

〃Five miles。〃

General chorus:  〃We'll stop at Titisee。〃

George made discovery of this difference between theory and
practice on the very first day of our ride。

〃I thought;〃 said Georgehe was riding the single; Harris and I
being a little ahead on the tandem〃that the idea was to train up
the hills and ride down them。〃

〃So it is;〃 answered Harris; 〃as a general rule。  But the trains
don't go up EVERY hill in the Black Forest。〃

〃Somehow; I felt a suspicion that they wouldn't;〃 growled George;
and for awhile silence reigned。

〃Besides;〃 remarked Harris; who had evidently been ruminating the
subject; 〃you would not wish to have nothing but downhill; surely。
It would not be playing the game。  One must take a little rough
with one's smooth。〃

Again there returned silence; broken after awhile by George; this
time。

〃Don't you two fellows over…exert yourselves merely on my account;〃
said George。

〃How do you mean?〃 asked Harris。

〃I mean;〃 answered George; 〃that where a train does happen to be
going up these hills; don't you put aside the idea of taking it for
fear of outraging my finer feelings。  Personally; I am prepared to
go up all these hills in a railway train; even if it's not playing
the game。  I'll square the thing with my conscience; I've been up
at seven every day for a week now; and I calculate it owes me a
bit。  Don't you consider me in the matter at all。〃

We promised to bear this in mind; and again the ride continued in
dogged dumbness; until it was again broken by George。

〃What bicycle did you say this was of yours?〃 asked George。

Harris told him。  I forget of what particular manufacture it
happened to be; it is immaterial。

〃Are you sure?〃 persisted George。

〃Of course I am sure;〃 answered Harris。  〃Why; what's the matter
with it?〃

〃Well; it doesn't come up to the poster;〃 said George; 〃that's
all。〃

〃What poster?〃 asked Harris。

〃The poster advertising this particular brand of cycle;〃 explained
George。  〃I was looking at one on a hoarding in Sloane Street only
a day or two before we started。  A man was riding this make of
machine; a man with a banner in his hand:  he wasn't doing any
work; that was clear as daylight; he was just sitting on the thing
and drinking in the air。  The cycle was going of its own accord;
and going well。  This thing of yours leaves all the work to me。  It
is a lazy brute of a machine; if you don't shove; it simply does
nothing:  I should complain about it; if I were you。〃

When one comes to think of it; few bicycles do realise the poster。
On only one poster that I can recollect have I seen the rider
represented as doing any work。  But then this man was being pursued
by a bull。  In ordinary cases the object of the artist is to
convince the hesitating neophyte that the sport of bicycling
consists in sitting on a luxurious saddle; and being moved rapidly
in the direction you wish to go by unseen heavenly powers。

Generally speaking; the rider is a lady; and then one feels that;
for perfect bodily rest combined with entire freedom from mental
anxiety; slumber upon a water…bed cannot compare with bicycle…
riding upon a hilly road。  No fairy t

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