an old town by the sea-第4节
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The churches of Portsmouth are more remarkable for their number than their architecture。 With the exception of the Stone Church they are constructed of wood or plain brick in the simplest style。 St。 John's Church is the only one likely to attract the eye of a stranger。 It is finely situated on the crest of Church Hill； overlooking the ever…beautiful river。 The present edifice was built in 1808 on the site of what was known as Queen's Chapel； erected in 1732； and destroyed by fire December 24； 1806。 The chapel was named in honor of Queen Caroline； who furnished the books for the altar and pulpit； the plate； and two solid mahogany chairs； which are still in use in St。 John's。 Within the chancel rail is a curious font of porphyry； taken by Colonel John Tufton Mason at the capture of Senegal from the French in 1758； and presented to the Episcopal Society on 1761。 The peculiarly sweet…toned bell which calls the parishioners of St。 John's together every Sabbath is； I believe； the same that formerly hung in the belfry of the old Queen's Chapel。 If so； the bell has a history of its own。 It was brought from Louisburg at the time of the reduction of that place in 1745； and given to the church by the officers of the New Hampshire troops。
The Old South Meeting…House is not to be passed without mention。 It is among the most aged survivals of pre…revolutionary days。 Neither its architecture not its age； however； is its chief warrant for our notice。 The absurd number of windows in this battered old structure is what strikes the passer…by。 The church was erected by subscription； and these closely set large windows are due to Henry Sherburne； one of the wealthiest citizens of the period； who agreed to pay for whatever glass was used。 If the building could have been composed entirely of glass it would have been done by the thrifty parishioners。
Portsmouth is rich in graveyardsthey seem to be a New England specialtyancient and modern。 Among the old burial…places the one attached to St。 John's Church is perhaps the most interesting。 It has not been permitted to fall into ruin； like the old cemetery at the Point of Graves。 When a headstone here topples over it is kindly lifted up and set on its pins again； and encouraged to do its duty。 If it utterly refuses； and is not shamming decrepitude； it has its face sponged； and is allowed to rest and sun itself against the wall of the church with a row of other exempts。 The trees are kept pruned； the grass trimmed； and here and there is a rosebush drooping with a weight of pensive pale roses； as becomes a rosebush in a churchyard。
The place has about it an indescribable soothing atmosphere of respectability and comfort。 Here rest the remains of the principal and loftiest in rank in their generation of the citizens of Portsmouth prior to the Revolutionstanch； royalty…loving governors； counselors； and secretaries of the Providence of New Hampshire； all snugly gathered under the motherly wing of the Church of England。 It is almost impossible to walk anywhere without stepping on a governor。 You grow haughty in spirit after a while； and scorn to tread on anything less than one of His Majesty's colonels or secretary under the Crown。 Here are the tombs of the Atkinsons； the Jaffreys； the Sherburnes； the Sheafes； the Marshes； the Mannings； the Gardners； and others of the quality。 All around you underfoot are tumbled…in coffins； with here and there a rusty sword atop； and faded escutcheons； and crumbling armorial devices。 You are moving in the very best society。
This； however； is not the earliest cemetery in Portsmouth。 An hour's walk from the Episcopal yard will bring you to the spot； already mentioned； where the first house was built and the first grave made； at Odiorne's Point。 The exact site of the Manor is not known； but it is supposed to be a few rods north of an old well of still…flowing water； at which the Tomsons and the Hiltons and their comrades slaked their thirst more than two hundred and sixty years ago。 Oriorne's Point is owned by Mr。 Eben L。 Odiorne； a lineal descendant of the worthy who held the property in 1657。 Not far from the old spring is the resting…place of the earliest pioneers。
〃This first cemetery of the white man in New Hampshire；〃 writes Mr。 Brewster； （1。 Mr。 Charles W。 Brewster； for nearly fifty years the editor of the Portsmouth Journal； and the author of two volumes of local sketches to which the writer of these pages here acknowledges his indebtedness。） 〃occupies a space of perhaps one hundred feet by ninety； and is well walled in。 The western side is now used as a burial…place for the family； but two thirds of it is filled with perhaps forty graves； indicated by rough head and foot stones。 Who there rest no one now living knows。 But the same care is taken of their quiet beds as if they were of the proprietor's own family。 In 1631 Mason sent over about eighty emigrants many of whom died in a few years； and here they were probably buried。 Here too； doubtless； rest the remains of several of those whose names stand conspicuous in our early state records。〃
IV。 A STROLL ABOUT TOWN （continued）
WHEN Washington visited Portsmouth in 1789 he was not much impressed by the architecture of the little town that had stood by him so stoutly in the struggle for independence。 〃There are some good houses；〃 he writes； in a diary kept that year during a tour through Connecticut； Massachusetts； and New Hampshire； 〃 among which Colonel Langdon's may be esteemed the first； but in general they are indifferent； and almost entirely of wood。 On wondering at this； as the country is full of stone and good clay for bricks； I was told that on account of the fogs and damp they deemed them wholesomer； and for that reason preferred wood buildings。〃
The house of Colonel Langdon； on Pleasant Street； is an excellent sample of the solid and dignified abodes which our great…grandsires had the sense to build。 The art of their construction seems to have been a lost art these fifty years。 Here Governor John Langdon resided from 1782 until the time of his death in 1819a period during which many an illustrious man passed between those two white pillars that support the little balcony over the front door； among the rest Louis Philippe and his brothers； the Ducs de Montpensier and Beaujolais； and the Marquis de Chastellus； a major…general in the French army； serving under the Count de Rochambeau； whom he accompanied from France to the States in 1780。 The journal of the marquis contains this reference to his host： 〃After dinner we went to drink tea with Mr。 Langdon。 He is a handsome man； and of noble carriage； he has been a member of Congress； and is now one of the first people of the country； his house is elegant and well furnished； and the apartments admirably well wainscoted〃 （this reads like Mr。 Samuel Pepys）； 〃and he has a good manuscript chart of the harbor of Portsmouth。 Mrs。 Langdon； his wife； is young； fair； and tolerably handsome； but I conversed less with her than her husband； in whose favor I was prejudiced from knowing that he had displayed great courage and patriotism at the time of Burgoynes's expedition。〃
It was at the height of the French Revolution that the three sons of the Due d'Orleans were entertained at the Langdon mansion。 Years afterward； when Louis Philippe was on the throne of France； he inquired of a Portsmouth lady presented at his court if the mansion of ce brave Gouverneur Langdon was still in existence。
The house stands back a decorous distance from the street； under the shadows of some gigantic oaks or elms； and presents an imposing appearance as you approach it over the tessellated marble walk。 A hundred or two feet on either side of the gate； and abutting on the street； is a small square building of brick； one story in heightprobably the porter's lodge and tool…house of former days。 There is a large fruit garden attached to the house； which is in excellent condition； taking life comfortably； and having the complacent air of a well…preserved beau of the ancien regime。 The Langdon mansion was owned and long occupied by the late Rev。 Dr。 Burroughs； for a period of forty…seven years the esteemed rector or St。 John's Church。
At the other end of Pleasant Street is another notable house； to which we shall come by and by。 Though President Washington found Portsmouth but moderately attractive from an architectural point of view； the visitor of to…day； if he have an antiquarian taste； will find himself embarrassed by the number of localities and buildings that appeal to his interest。 Many of these buildings were new and undoubtedly commonplace enough at the date of Washington's visit； time and association have given them a quaintness and a significance which now make their architecture a question of secondary importance。
One might spend a fortnight in Portsmouth exploring the nooks and corners over which history has thrown a charm； and by no means exhaust the list。 I cannot do more than attempt to describeand that very brieflya few of the typical old houses。 On this same Pleasant Street there are several which we must leave unnoted； with their spacious halls and carven staircases； their antiquated furniture and old silver tankards and choice Copleys。 Numerous examp
