the land of footprints-第30节
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is no more wonderful than to defy them by striking a light。 Since the white man can provedly do one； what earthly reason exists why he should not do anything else that hits his fancy？ There is nothing to get astonished at。
This does not necessarily mean that the native looks on the white man as a god。 On the contrary； your African is very shrewd in the reading of character。 But indubitably white men possess great magic； uncertain in its extent。
That is as far as I should care to go； without much deeper acquaintance； into the attitude of the native mind toward the whites。 A superficial study of it； beyond the general principals I have enunciated； discloses many strange contradictions。 The native respects the white man's warlike skill； he respects his physical prowess； he certainly acknowledges tacitly his moral superiority in the right to command。 In case of dispute he likes the white man's adjudication； in case of illness the man's medicine； in case of trouble the white man's sustaining hand。 Yet he almost never attempts to copy the white man's appearance or ways of doing things。 His own savage customs and habits he fulfils with as much pride as ever in their eternal fitness。 Once I was badgering Memba Sasa； asking him whether he thought the white skin or the black skin the more ornamental。 〃You are not white；〃 he retorted at last。 〃That；〃 pointing to a leaf of my notebook； 〃is white。 You are red。 I do not like the looks of red people。〃
They call our speech the 〃snake language；〃 because of its hissing sound。 Once this is brought to your attention； indeed； you cannot help noticing the superabundance of the sibilants。
A queer melange the pigeonholes of an African's brain must contain…fear and respect； strongly mingled with clear estimate of intrinsic character of individuals and a satisfaction with his own standards。
Nor； I think； do we realize sufficiently the actual fundamental differences between the African and our peoples。 Physically they must be in many ways as different from our selves as though they actually belonged to a different species。 The Masai are a fine big race； enduring； well developed and efficient。 They live exclusively on cow's milk mixed with blood； no meat； no fruit； no vegetables； no grain； just that and nothing more。 Obviously they must differ from us most radically； or else all our dietetic theories are wrong。 It is a well…known fact that any native requires a triple dose of white man's medicine。 Furthermore a native's sensitiveness to pain is very much less than the white man's。 This is indubitable。 For example； the Wakamba file…or； rather； chip； by means of a small chisel…all their front teeth down to needle points； When these happen to fall out； the warrior substitutes an artificial tooth which he drives down into the socket。 If the savage got the same effects from such a performance that a white man's dental system would arouse； even 〃savage stoicism〃 would hardly do him much good。 There is nothing to be gained by multiplying examples。 Every African traveller can recall a thousand。
Incidentally； and by the way； I want to add to the milk…and…blood joke on dietetics another on the physical culturists。 We are all familiar with the wails over the loss of our toe nails。 You know what I mean； they run somewhat like this： shoes are the curse of civilization； if we wear them much longer we shall not only lose the intended use of our feet； but we shall lose our toe nails as well； the savage man； etc。 ； etc。 ； etc。 Now I saw a great many of said savage men in Africa； and I got much interested in their toe nails； because I soon found that our own civilized 〃imprisoned〃 toe nails were very much better developed。 In fact； a large number of the free and untramelled savages have hardly any toe nails at all！ Whether this upsets a theory； nullifies a sentimental protest； or merely stands as an exception； I should not dare guess。 But the fact is indubitable。
XVIII。 IN THE JUNGLE （a） THE MARCH TO MERU
Now； one day we left the Isiola River and cut across on a long upward slant to the left。 In a very short time we had left the plains； and were adrift in an ocean of brown grass that concealed all but the bobbing loads atop the safari； and over which we could only see when mounted。 It was glorious feed； apparently； but it contained very few animals for all that。 An animal could without doubt wax fat and sleek therein： but only to furnish light and salutary meals to beasts of prey。 Long grass makes easy stalking。 We saw a few ostriches； some giraffe； and three or four singly adventurous oryx。 The ripening grasses were softer than a rippling field grain； and even more beautiful in their umber and browns。 Although apparently we travelled a level； nevertheless in the extreme distance the plains of our hunting were dropping below； and the far off mountains were slowly rising above the horizon。 On the other side were two very green hills； looking nearly straight up and down； and through a cleft the splintered snow…clad summit of Mt。 Kenia。
At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country。 Then； in the pass； we came upon many parallel beaten paths； wider and straighter than the game trails…native tracks。 That night we camped in a small； round valley under some glorious trees； with green grass around us； a refreshing contrast after the desert brown。 In the distance ahead stood a big hill； and at its base we could make out amid the tree…green； the straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads。
We began our next morning's march early； and we dropped over the hill into a wide； cultivated valley。 Fields of grain； mostly rape； were planted irregularly among big scattered trees。 The morning air； warming under the sun； was as yet still； and carried sound well。 The cooing； chattering and calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the clapping together of pieces of wood。 As we came closer we saw that every so often scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain； and on these scaffolds naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the birds from the crops。 They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the job； whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I could not say。 Certainly they must have worked in watches； however； no human being could keep up that row continuously for a single day； let alone the whole season of ripening grain。 As we passed they fell silent and stared their fill。
On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we came on a gentleman and lady travelling。 They were a tall； well formed pair； mahogany in colour； with the open； pleasant expression of most of these jungle peoples。 The man wore a string around his waist into which was thrust a small leafy branch； the woman had on a beautiful skirt made by halving a banana leaf； using the stem as belt； and letting the leaf part hang down as a skirt。 Shortly after meeting these people we turned sharp to the right on a well beaten road。
For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road； so it may be as well to get an idea of it。 Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the circle of Kenia's foothills。 With Kenia itself as a centre； this road swung among the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain。 Its course was mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from the main peak； and over the ridges between them。 No sooner were we down； than we had to climb up； and no sooner were we up； than once more down we had to plunge。 At times； however； we crossed considerable plateaus。 Most of this country was dense jungle； so dense that we could not see on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet。 Occasionally； atop the ridges； however； we would come upon small open parks。 In these jungles live millions of human beings。
At once； as soon as we had turned into the main road； we began to meet people。 In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys； and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts。 We came across some of these little houses all completed； with conical roofs。 They were evidently used for granaries。 As we mounted the slope on the other side； however； the trees closed in； and we found ourselves marching down the narrow aisle of the jungle itself。
It was a dense and beautiful jungle； with very tall trees and the deepest shade； and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track。 Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms； the fling of leafy vines。 Over the track these leaned； so that we rode through splashing and mottling shade。 Nothing could have seemed wilder than this apparently impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance before we realized that we were in fact passing through cultivated land。 It was； again； only a difference in terms。 Native cultivation in this district rarely consists of clearing land and planting crops in due order； but in leaving the forest proper as it is； and in planting foodstuffs haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three hills of corn or a single banana。 Thus they add to rather than subtract from the typical density of the jungle。 At first； we found； it took some practice to tell a farm when we saw it。
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