the land of footprints-第24节
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rney before him； he eats his rations all up when he happens to get hungry； two days before next distribution time； he straggles outrageously at times and has to be rounded up； he works three months and； on a whim； deserts two days before the end of his journey； thus forfeiting all his wages。 Once two porters came to us for money。
〃What for？〃 asked C。
〃To buy a sheep；〃 said they。
For two months we had been shooting them all the game meat they could eat； but on this occasion two days had intervened since the last kill。 If they had been on trading safari they would have had no meat at all。 A sheep cost six rupees in that country； and they were getting but ten rupees a month as wages。 In view of the circumstances； and for their own good； we refused。 Another man once insisted on purchasing a cake of violet…scented soap for a rupee。 Their chief idea of a wild time in Nairobi； after return from a long safari； is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink tea。 For this they pay exorbitantly at the Somali so…called 〃hotels。〃 It is a strange sight。 But then； I have seen cowboys off the range or lumberjacks from the river do equally extravagant and foolish things。
On the other hand they carry their loads well； they march tremendously； they know their camp duties and they do them。 Under adverse circumstances they are good…natured。 I remember C。 and I； being belated and lost in a driving rain。 We wandered until nearly midnight。 The four or five men with us were loaded heavily with the meat and trophy of a roan。 Certainly they must have been very tired； for only occasionally could we permit them to lay down their loads。 Most of the time we were actually groping； over boulders； volcanic rocks； fallen trees and all sorts of tribulation。 The men took it as a huge joke； and at every pause laughed consumedly。
In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes。 This prevents concerted action in case of trouble； for no one tribe will help another。 They vary both in tribal and individual characteristics； of course。 For example； the Kikuyus are docile but mediocre porters； the Kavirondos strong carriers but turbulent and difficult to handle。 You are very lucky if you happen on a camp jester； one of the sort that sings； shouts； or jokes while on the march。 He is probably not much as a porter； but he is worth his wages nevertheless。 He may or may not aspire to his giddy eminence。 We had one droll…faced little Kavirondo whose very expression made one laugh； and whose rueful remarks on the harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny。 His name got to be a catchword in camp。
〃Mualo！ Mualo！〃 the men would cry； as they heaved their burdens to their heads； and all day long their war cry would ring out； 〃Mualo！〃 followed by shrieks of laughter。
Of the other type was Sulimani； a big； one…eyed Monumwezi； who had a really keen wit coupled with an earnest； solemn manner。 This man was no buffoon； however； and he was a good porter； always at or near the head of the procession。 In the great jungle south of Kenia we came upon Cuninghame。 When the head of our safari reached the spot Sulimani left the ranks and； his load still aloft danced solemnly in front of Cuninghame； chanting something in a loud tone of voice。 Then with a final deep 〃Jambo！〃 to his old master he rejoined the safari。 When the day had stretched to weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen plodding； Sulimani's vigorous song could always set the safari sticks tapping the sides of the chop boxes。
He carried part of the tent； and the next best men were entrusted with the cook outfit and our personal effects。 It was a point of honour with these men to be the first in camp。 The rear； the very extreme and straggling rear； was brought up by worthless porters with loads of cornmeal…and the weary askaris whose duty it was to keep astern and herd the lot in。
XIV。 A DAY ON THE ISIOLA
Early one morning…we were still on the Isiola…we set forth on our horses to ride across the rolling； brush…grown plain。 Our intention was to proceed at right angles to our own little stream until we had reached the forest growth of another； which we could dimly make out eight or ten miles distant。 Billy went with us； so there were four a…horseback。 Behind us trudged the gunbearers； and the syces； and after them straggled a dozen or fifteen porters。
The sun was just up； and the air was only tepid as yet。 From patches of high grass whirred and rocketed grouse of two sorts。 They were so much like our own ruffed grouse and prairie chicken that I could with no effort imagine myself once more a boy in the coverts of the Middle West。 Only before us we could see the stripes of trotting zebra disappearing； and catch the glint of light on the bayonets of the oryx。 Two giraffes galumphed away to the right。 Little grass antelope darted from clump to clump of grass。 Once we saw gerenuk…oh； far away in an impossible distance。 Of course we tried to stalk them； and as usual we failed。 The gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser Hoodoo。
The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black…tailed deer。 His peculiarity is his excessively long neck； a good deal on the giraffe order。 With it he crops browse above high tide mark of other animals； especially when as often happens he balances cleverly on his hind legs。 By means of it also he can； with his body completely concealed； look over the top of ordinary cover and see you long before you have made out his inconspicuous little head。 Then he departs。 He seems to have a lamentable lack of healthy curiosity about you。 In that respect he should take lessons from the kongoni。 After that you can follow him as far as you please； you will get only glimpses at three or four hundred yards。
We remounted sadly and rode on。 The surface of the ground was rather soft； scattered with round rocks the size of a man's head； and full of pig holes。
〃Cheerful country to ride over at speed；〃 remarked Billy。 Later in the day we had occasion to remember that statement。
The plains led us ever on。 First would be a band of scattered brush growing singly and in small clumps： then a little open prairie； then a narrow； long grass swale； then perhaps a low； long hill with small single trees and rough； volcanic footing。 Ten thousand things kept us interested。 Game was everywhere； feeding singly； in groups； in herds； game of all sizes and descriptions。 The rounded ears of jackals pointed at us from the grass。 Hundreds of birds balanced or fluttered about us； birds of all sizes from the big ground hornbill to the littlest hummers and sun birds。 Overhead； across the wonderful variegated sky of Africa the broad…winged carrion hunters and birds of prey wheeled。 In all our stay on the Isiola we had not seen a single rhino track； so we rode quite care free and happy。
Finally； across a glade； not over a hundred and fifty yards away； we saw a solitary bull oryx standing under a bush。 B。 wanted an oryx。 We discussed this one idly。 He looked to be a decent oryx； but nothing especial。 However； he offered a very good shot； so B。； after some hesitation； decided to take it。 It proved to be by far the best specimen we shot； the horns measuring thirty…six and three fourths inches！ Almost immediately after； two of the rather rare striped hyenas leaped from the grass and departed rapidly over the top of a hill。 We opened fire； and F。 dropped one of them。 By the time these trophies were prepared； the sun had mounted high in the heavens； and it was getting hot。
Accordingly we abandoned that still distant river and swung away in a wide circle to return to camp。
Several minor adventures brought us to high noon and the heat of the day。 B。 had succeeded in drawing a prize； one of the Grevy's or mountain zebra。 He and the gunbearers engaged themselves with that； while we sat under the rather scanty shade of a small thorn tree and had lunch。 Here we had a favourable chance to observe that very common； but always wonderful phenomenon； the gathering of the carrion birds。 Within five minutes after the stoop of the first vulture above the carcass； the sky immediately over that one spot was fairly darkened with them。 They were as thick as midges…or as ducks used to be in California。 All sizes were there from the little carrion crows to the great dignified vultures and marabouts and eagles。 The small fry flopped and scolded； and rose and fell in a dense mass； the marabouts walked with dignified pace to and fro through the grass all about。 As far as the eye could penetrate the blue； it could make out more and yet more of the great soarers stooping with half bent wings。 Below we could see uncertainly through the shimmer of the mirage the bent forms of the men。
We ate and waited； and after a little we dozed。 I was awakened suddenly by a tremendous rushing roar； like the sound of a not too distant waterfall。 The group of men were plodding toward us carrying burdens。 And like plummets the birds were dropping straight down from the heavens； spreading wide their wings at the last moment to check their speed。 This made the roaring sound that had awakened me。
A wide spot in the shimmer showed black and struggling against the ground。 I arose and walked over； meeting halfway B。 and the men carrying the meat。 It took m
