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Chapter¡¡XII

At¡¡the¡¡Sources¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Missouri

The¡¡explorers¡¡were¡¡now¡¡£¨in¡¡the¡¡last¡¡days¡¡of¡¡July£»¡¡1805£©¡¡at¡¡the¡¡head¡¡of¡¡the¡¡principal¡¡sources¡¡of¡¡the¡¡great¡¡Missouri¡¡River£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡fastnesses¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Rocky¡¡Mountains£»¡¡at¡¡the¡¡base¡¡of¡¡the¡¡narrow¡¡divide¡¡that¡¡separates¡¡Idaho¡¡from¡¡Montana¡¡in¡¡its¡¡southern¡¡corner¡£¡¡¡¡Just¡¡across¡¡this¡¡divide¡¡are¡¡the¡¡springs¡¡that¡¡feed¡¡streams¡¡falling¡¡into¡¡the¡¡majestic¡¡Columbia¡¡and¡¡then¡¡to¡¡the¡¡Pacific¡¡Ocean¡£¡¡¡¡As¡¡has¡¡been¡¡already¡¡set¡¡forth£»¡¡they¡¡named¡¡the¡¡Three¡¡Forks¡¡for¡¡President¡¡Jefferson¡¡and¡¡members¡¡of¡¡his¡¡cabinet¡£¡¡These¡¡names¡¡still¡¡survive£»¡¡although¡¡Jefferson¡¡River¡¡is¡¡the¡¡true¡¡Missouri¡¡and¡¡not¡¡a¡¡fork¡¡of¡¡that¡¡stream¡£¡¡¡¡Upon¡¡the¡¡forks¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Jefferson¡¡Lewis¡¡bestowed¡¡the¡¡titles¡¡of¡¡Philosophy£»¡¡Wisdom£»¡¡and¡¡Philanthropy£»¡¡each¡¡of¡¡these¡¡gifts¡¡and¡¡graces¡¡being£»¡¡in¡¡his¡¡opinion£»¡¡¡¨an¡¡attribute¡¡of¡¡that¡¡illustrious¡¡personage£»¡¡Thomas¡¡Jefferson£»¡¨¡¡then¡¡President¡¡of¡¡the¡¡United¡¡States¡£¡¡¡¡But¡¡alas¡¡for¡¡the¡¡fleeting¡¡greatness¡¡of¡¡geographical¡¡honor£¡¡¡Philosophy¡¡River¡¡is¡¡now¡¡known¡¡as¡¡Willow¡¡Creek£»¡¡and¡¡at¡¡its¡¡mouth£»¡¡a¡¡busy¡¡little¡¡railroad¡¡town£»¡¡is¡¡Willow¡¡City¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡northwest¡¡fork¡¡is¡¡no¡¡longer¡¡Wisdom£»¡¡but¡¡Big¡¡Hole¡¡River£»¡¡deep¡¡valleys¡¡among¡¡the¡¡mountains¡¡are¡¡known¡¡as¡¡holes£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡stream¡¡called¡¡by¡¡that¡¡name£»¡¡once¡¡Wisdom£»¡¡is¡¡followed¡¡along¡¡its¡¡crooked¡¡course¡¡by¡¡a¡¡railroad¡¡that¡¡connects¡¡Dillon£»¡¡Silver¡¡Bow£»¡¡and¡¡Butte¡¡City£»¡¡Montana¡£¡¡¡¡Vulgarity¡¡does¡¡its¡¡worst¡¡for¡¡Philanthropy£»¡¡its¡¡modern¡¡name¡¡on¡¡the¡¡map¡¡is¡¡Stinking¡¡Water¡£

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The¡¡easy¡¡indifference¡¡to¡¡discomfort¡¡with¡¡which¡¡these¡¡well¡­seasoned¡¡pioneers¡¡took¡¡their¡¡hardships¡¡must¡¡needs¡¡impress¡¡the¡¡reader¡£¡¡It¡¡was¡¡a¡¡common¡¡thing¡¡for¡¡men£»¡¡or¡¡for¡¡a¡¡solitary¡¡man£»¡¡to¡¡be¡¡caught¡¡out¡¡of¡¡camp¡¡by¡¡nightfall¡¡and¡¡compelled¡¡to¡¡bivouac£»¡¡like¡¡Captain¡¡Lewis£»¡¡in¡¡the¡¡underbrush£»¡¡or¡¡the¡¡prairie¡­grass¡£¡¡As¡¡they¡¡pressed¡¡on£»¡¡game¡¡began¡¡to¡¡fail¡¡them¡£¡¡¡¡Under¡¡date¡¡of¡¡July¡¡31£»¡¡they¡¡remark¡¡that¡¡the¡¡only¡¡game¡¡seen¡¡that¡¡day¡¡was¡¡one¡¡bighorn£»¡¡a¡¡few¡¡antelopes£»¡¡deer£»¡¡and¡¡a¡¡brown¡¡bear£»¡¡all¡¡of¡¡which¡¡escaped¡¡them¡£¡¡¡¨Nothing¡¡was¡¡killed¡¡to¡­day£»¡¨¡¡it¡¡is¡¡recorded£»¡¡¡¨nor¡¡have¡¡we¡¡had¡¡any¡¡fresh¡¡meat¡¡except¡¡one¡¡beaver¡¡for¡¡the¡¡last¡¡two¡¡days£»¡¡so¡¡that¡¡we¡¡are¡¡now¡¡reduced¡¡to¡¡an¡¡unusual¡¡situation£»¡¡for¡¡we¡¡have¡¡hitherto¡¡always¡¡had¡¡a¡¡great¡¡abundance¡¡of¡¡flesh¡£¡¨¡¡Indeed£»¡¡one¡¡reason¡¡for¡¡this¡¡is¡¡found¡¡in¡¡Captain¡¡Lewis's¡¡remark£º¡¡¡¨When¡¡we¡¡have¡¡plenty¡¡of¡¡fresh¡¡meat£»¡¡I¡¡find¡¡it¡¡impossible¡¡to¡¡make¡¡the¡¡men¡¡take¡¡any¡¡care¡¡of¡¡it£»¡¡or¡¡use¡¡it¡¡with¡¡the¡¡least¡¡frugality£»¡¡though¡¡I¡¡expect¡¡that¡¡necessity¡¡will¡¡shortly¡¡teach¡¡them¡¡this¡¡art¡£¡¨¡¡We¡¡shall¡¡see£»¡¡later¡¡on£»¡¡that¡¡the¡¡men£»¡¡who¡¡were¡¡really¡¡as¡¡improvident¡¡of¡¡food¡¡as¡¡the¡¡Indians£»¡¡had¡¡hard¡¡lessons¡¡from¡¡necessity¡£

Anxious¡¡to¡¡reach¡¡the¡¡Indians£»¡¡who¡¡were¡¡believed¡¡to¡¡be¡¡somewhere¡¡ahead¡¡of¡¡them£»¡¡Captain¡¡Lewis¡¡and¡¡three¡¡men¡¡went¡¡on¡¡up¡¡the¡¡Jefferson£»¡¡Captain¡¡Clark¡¡and¡¡his¡¡party¡¡following¡¡with¡¡the¡¡canoes¡¡and¡¡luggage¡¡in¡¡a¡¡more¡¡leisurely¡¡manner¡£¡¡The¡¡advance¡¡party¡¡were¡¡so¡¡fortunate¡¡as¡¡to¡¡overtake¡¡a¡¡herd¡¡of¡¡elk£»¡¡two¡¡of¡¡which¡¡they¡¡killed£»¡¡what¡¡they¡¡did¡¡not¡¡eat¡¡they¡¡left¡¡secured¡¡for¡¡the¡¡other¡¡party¡¡with¡¡the¡¡canoes¡£¡¡¡¡Clark's¡¡men¡¡also¡¡had¡¡good¡¡luck¡¡in¡¡hunting£»¡¡for¡¡they¡¡killed¡¡five¡¡deer¡¡and¡¡one¡¡bighorn¡£¡¡¡¡Neither¡¡party¡¡found¡¡fresh¡¡tracks¡¡of¡¡Indians£»¡¡and¡¡they¡¡were¡¡greatly¡¡discouraged¡¡thereat¡£¡¡The¡¡journal¡¡speaks¡¡of¡¡a¡¡beautiful¡¡valley£»¡¡from¡¡six¡¡to¡¡eight¡¡miles¡¡wide£»¡¡where¡¡they¡¡saw¡¡ancient¡¡traces¡¡of¡¡buffalo¡¡occupation£»¡¡but¡¡no¡¡buffalo¡£¡¡These¡¡animals¡¡had¡¡now¡¡completely¡¡disappeared£»¡¡they¡¡were¡¡seldom¡¡seen¡¡in¡¡those¡¡mountains¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡journal¡¡says¡¡of¡¡Lewis£º

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¡¨The¡¡river¡¡is¡¡still¡¡rapid£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡water£»¡¡though¡¡clear£»¡¡is¡¡very¡¡much¡¡obstructed¡¡by¡¡shoals¡¡or¡¡ripples¡¡at¡¡every¡¡two¡¡hundred¡¡or¡¡three¡¡hundred¡¡yards¡£¡¡At¡¡all¡¡these¡¡places¡¡we¡¡are¡¡obliged¡¡to¡¡drag¡¡the¡¡canoes¡¡over¡¡the¡¡stones£»¡¡as¡¡there¡¡is¡¡not¡¡a¡¡sufficient¡¡depth¡¡of¡¡water¡¡to¡¡float¡¡them£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡the¡¡other¡¡parts¡¡the¡¡current¡¡obliges¡¡us¡¡to¡¡have¡¡recourse¡¡to¡¡the¡¡cord¡£¡¡But¡¡as¡¡the¡¡brushwood¡¡on¡¡the¡¡banks¡¡will¡¡not¡¡permit¡¡us¡¡to¡¡walk¡¡on¡¡shore£»¡¡we¡¡are¡¡under¡¡the¡¡necessity¡¡of¡¡wading¡¡through¡¡the¡¡river¡¡as¡¡we¡¡drag¡¡the¡¡boats¡£¡¡This¡¡soon¡¡makes¡¡our¡¡feet¡¡tender£»¡¡and¡¡sometimes¡¡occasions¡¡severe¡¡falls¡¡over¡¡the¡¡slippery¡¡stones£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡men£»¡¡by¡¡being¡¡constantly¡¡wet£»¡¡are¡¡becoming¡¡more¡¡feeble¡£¡¡¡¡In¡¡the¡¡course¡¡of¡¡the¡¡day¡¡the¡¡hunters¡¡killed¡¡two¡¡deer£»¡¡some¡¡geese¡¡and¡¡ducks£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡party¡¡saw¡¡some¡¡antelopes£»¡¡cranes£»¡¡beaver£»¡¡and¡¡otter¡£¡¨

Captain¡¡Lewis¡¡had¡¡left¡¡a¡¡note¡¡for¡¡Captain¡¡Clark¡¡at¡¡the¡¡forks¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Jefferson¡¡and¡¡Wisdom¡¡rivers¡£¡¡¡¡Clark's¡¡journal¡¡says£º

¡¨We¡¡arrived¡¡at¡¡the¡¡forks¡¡about¡¡four¡¡o'clock£»¡¡but£»¡¡unluckily£»¡¡Captain¡¡Lewis's¡¡note¡¡had¡¡been¡¡attached¡¡to¡¡a¡¡green¡¡pole£»¡¡which¡¡the¡¡beaver¡¡had¡¡cut¡¡down£»¡¡and¡¡carried¡¡off¡¡with¡¡the¡¡note¡¡on¡¡it£º¡¡¡¡an¡¡accident¡¡which¡¡deprived¡¡us¡¡of¡¡all¡¡information¡¡as¡¡to¡¡the¡¡character¡¡of¡¡the¡¡two¡¡branches¡¡of¡¡the¡¡river¡£¡¡Observing£»¡¡therefore£»¡¡that¡¡the¡¡northwest¡¡fork¡¡was¡¡most¡¡in¡¡our¡¡direction£»¡¡we¡¡ascended¡¡it¡£¡¡¡¡We¡¡found¡¡it¡¡extremely¡¡rapid£»¡¡and¡¡its¡¡waters¡¡were¡¡scattered¡¡in¡¡such¡¡a¡¡manner¡¡that¡¡for¡¡a¡¡quarter¡¡of¡¡a¡¡mile¡¡we¡¡were¡¡forced¡¡to¡¡cut¡¡a¡¡passage¡¡through¡¡the¡¡willow¡­brush¡¡that¡¡leaned¡¡over¡¡the¡¡little¡¡channels¡¡and¡¡united¡¡at¡¡the¡¡top¡£¡¡¡¡After¡¡going¡¡up¡¡it¡¡for¡¡a¡¡mile£»¡¡we¡¡encamped¡¡on¡¡an¡¡island¡¡which¡¡had¡¡been¡¡overflowed£»¡¡and¡¡was¡¡still¡¡so¡¡wet¡¡that¡¡we¡¡were¡¡compelled¡¡to¡¡make¡¡beds¡¡of¡¡brush¡¡to¡¡keep¡¡ourselves¡¡out¡¡of¡¡the¡¡mud¡£¡¡Our¡¡provision¡¡consisted¡¡of¡¡two¡¡deer¡¡which¡¡had¡¡been¡¡killed¡¡in¡¡the¡¡morning¡£¡¨

It¡¡should¡¡be¡¡borne¡¡in¡¡mind¡¡that¡¡this¡¡river£»¡¡up¡¡which¡¡the¡¡party¡¡were¡¡making¡¡their¡¡way£»¡¡was¡¡the¡¡Wisdom¡¡£¨now¡¡Big¡¡Hole£©£»¡¡and¡¡was¡¡the¡¡northwest¡¡fork¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Jefferson£»¡¡flowing¡¡from¡¡southeas

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