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and back to Tahiti。  I own we are deserters; but we have excuses。  

You cannot conceive how these climates agree with the wretched 

house…plant of Skerryvore:  he wonders to find himself sea…bathing; 

and cutting about the world loose; like a grown…up person。  They 

agree with Fanny too; who does not suffer from her rheumatism; and 

with Lloyd also。  And the interest of the islands is endless; and 

the sea; though I own it is a fearsome place; is very delightful。  

We had applied for places in the American missionary ship; the 

MORNING STAR; but this trading schooner is a far preferable idea; 

giving us more time and a thousandfold more liberty; so we 

determined to cut off the missionaries with a shilling。



The Sandwich Islands do not interest us very much; we live here; 

oppressed with civilisation; and look for good things in the 

future。  But it would surprise you if you came out to…night from 

Honolulu (all shining with electric lights; and all in a bustle 

from the arrival of the mail; which is to carry you these lines) 

and crossed the long wooden causeway along the beach; and came out 

on the road through Kapiolani park; and seeing a gate in the 

palings; with a tub of gold…fish by the wayside; entered casually 

in。  The buildings stand in three groups by the edge of the beach; 

where an angry little spitfire sea continually spirts and thrashes 

with impotent irascibility; the big seas breaking further out upon 

the reef。  The first is a small house; with a very large summer 

parlour; or LANAI; as they call it here; roofed; but practically 

open。  There you will find the lamps burning and the family sitting 

about the table; dinner just done:  my mother; my wife; Lloyd; 

Belle; my wife's daughter; Austin her child; and to…night (by way 

of rarity) a guest。  All about the walls our South Sea curiosities; 

war clubs; idols; pearl shells; stone axes; etc。; and the walls are 

only a small part of a lanai; the rest being glazed or latticed 

windows; or mere open space。  You will see there no sign of the 

Squire; however; and being a person of a humane disposition; you 

will only glance in over the balcony railing at the merry…makers in 

the summer parlour; and proceed further afield after the Exile。  

You look round; there is beautiful green turf; many trees of an 

outlandish sort that drop thorns … look out if your feet are bare; 

but I beg your pardon; you have not been long enough in the South 

Seas … and many oleanders in full flower。  The next group of 

buildings is ramshackle; and quite dark; you make out a coach…house 

door; and look in … only some cocoanuts; you try round to the left 

and come to the sea front; where Venus and the moon are making 

luminous tracks on the water; and a great swell rolls and shines on 

the outer reef; and here is another door … all these places open 

from the outside … and you go in; and find photography; tubs of 

water; negatives steeping; a tap; and a chair and an inkbottle; 

where my wife is supposed to write; round a little further; a third 

door; entering which you find a picture upon the easel and a table 

sticky with paints; a fourth door admits you to a sort of court; 

where there is a hen sitting … I believe on a fallacious egg。  No 

sign of the Squire in all this。  But right opposite the studio door 

you have observed a third little house; from whose open door 

lamplight streams and makes hay of the strong moonlight shadows。  

You had supposed it made no part of the grounds; for a fence runs 

round it lined with oleander; but as the Squire is nowhere else; is 

it not just possible he may be here?  It is a grim little wooden 

shanty; cobwebs bedeck it; friendly mice inhabit its recesses; the 

mailed cockroach walks upon the wall; so also; I regret to say; the 

scorpion。  Herein are two pallet beds; two mosquito curtains; 

strung to the pitch…boards of the roof; two tables laden with books 

and manuscripts; three chairs; and; in one of the beds; the Squire 

busy writing to yourself; as it chances; and just at this moment 

somewhat bitten by mosquitoes。  He has just set fire to the insect 

powder; and will be all right in no time; but just now he 

contemplates large white blisters; and would like to scratch them; 

but knows better。  The house is not bare; it has been inhabited by 

Kanakas; and … you know what children are! … the bare wood walls 

are pasted over with pages from the GRAPHIC; HARPER'S WEEKLY; etc。  

The floor is matted; and I am bound to say the matting is filthy。  

There are two windows and two doors; one of which is condemned; on 

the panels of that last a sheet of paper is pinned up; and covered 

with writing。  I cull a few plums:…





'A duck…hammock for each person。

A patent organ like the commandant's at Taiohae。

Cheap and bad cigars for presents。

Revolvers。

Permanganate of potass。

Liniment for the head and sulphur。

Fine tooth…comb。'





What do you think this is?  Simply life in the South Seas 

foreshortened。  These are a few of our desiderata for the next 

trip; which we jot down as they occur。



There; I have really done my best and tried to send something like 

a letter … one letter in return for all your dozens。  Pray remember 

us all to yourself; Mrs。 Boodle; and the rest of your house。  I do 

hope your mother will be better when this comes。  I shall write and 

give you a new address when I have made up my mind as to the most 

probable; and I do beg you will continue to write from time to time 

and give us airs from home。  To…morrow … think of it … I must be 

off by a quarter to eight to drive in to the palace and breakfast 

with his Hawaiian Majesty at 8。30:  I shall be dead indeed。  Please 

give my news to Scott; I trust he is better; give him my warm 

regards。  To you we all send all kinds of things; and I am the 

absentee Squire;



ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。







Letter:  TO CHARLES BAXTER







HONOLULU; APRIL 1889。



MY DEAR CHARLES; … As usual; your letter is as good as a cordial; 

and I thank you for it; and all your care; kindness; and generous 

and thoughtful friendship; from my heart。  I was truly glad to hear 

a word of Colvin; whose long silence has terrified me; and glad to 

hear that you condoned the notion of my staying longer in the South 

Seas; for I have decided in that sense。  The first idea was to go 

in the MORNING STAR; missionary ship; but now I have found a 

trading schooner; the EQUATOR; which is to call for me here early 

in June and carry us through the Gilberts。  What will happen then; 

the Lord knows。  My mother does not accompany us:  she leaves here 

for home early in May; and you will hear of us from her; but not; I 

imagine; anything more definite。  We shall get dumped on 

Butaritari; and whether we manage to go on to the Marshalls and 

Carolines; or whether we fall back on Samoa; Heaven must decide; 

but I mean to fetch back into the course of the RICHMOND … (to 

think you don't know what the RICHMOND is! … the steamer of the 

Eastern South Seas; joining New Zealand; Tongatabu; the Samoas; 

Taheite; and Rarotonga; and carrying by last advices sheep in the 

saloon!) … into the course of the RICHMOND and make Taheite again 

on the home track。  Would I like to see the SCOTS OBSERVER?  

Wouldn't I not?  But whaur?  I'm direckit at space。  They have nae 

post offishes at the Gilberts; and as for the Car'lines!  Ye see; 

Mr。 Baxter; we're no just in the punkshewal CENTRE o' civ'lisation。  

But pile them up for me; and when I've decided on an address; I'll 

let you ken; and ye'll can send them stavin' after me。 … Ever your 

affectionate;



R。 L。 S。







Letter:  TO CHARLES BAXTER







HONOLULU; 10TH MAY 1889。



MY DEAR CHARLES; … I am appalled to gather from your last just to 

hand that you have felt so much concern about the letter。  Pray 

dismiss it from your mind。  But I think you scarce appreciate how 

disagreeable it is to have your private affairs and private 

unguarded expressions getting into print。  It would soon sicken any 

one of writing letters。  I have no doubt that letter was very 

wisely selected; but it just shows how things crop up。  There was a 

raging jealousy between the two yachts; our captain was nearly in a 

fight over it。  However; no more; and whatever you think; my dear 

fellow; do not suppose me angry with you or …; although I was 

ANNOYED AT THE CIRCUMSTANCE … a very different thing。  But it is 

difficult to conduct life by letter; and I continually feel I may 

be drifting into some matter of offence; in which my heart takes no 

part。



I must now turn to a point of business。  This new cruise of ours is 

somewhat venturesome; and I think it needful to warn you not to be 

in a hurry to suppose us dead。  In these ill…charted seas; it is 

quite on the cards we might be cast on some unvisited; or very 

rarely visited; island; that there we might 

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