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y means of the needle

With fingers weary and worn察  With eyelids heavy and red察A woman sat in unwomanly rags察  Plying her needle and thread。

Meanwhile察as Hood wrote and as the whole English people learned by heart his vivid lines察as great ladies wept over them and street singers sang them in the darkest slums of London察a man察hungry and ill´clad察in an attic in faraway Cambridge察Massachusetts察was struggling to put into metal an idea to lighten the toil of those who lived by the needle。 His name was Elias Howe and he hailed from Eli Whitney's old home察Worcester County察Massachusetts。 There Howe was born in 1819。 His father was an unsuccessful farmer察who also had some small mills察but seems to have succeeded in nothing he undertook。

Young Howe led the ordinary life of a New England country boy察going to school in winter and working about the farm until the age of sixteen察handling tools every day察like any farmer's boy of the time。 Hearing of high wages and interesting work in Lowell察that growing town on the Merrimac察he went there in 1835 and found employment察but two years later察when the panic of 1837 came on察he left Lowell and went to work in a machine shop in Cambridge。 It is said that察for a time察he occupied a room with his cousin察Nathaniel P。 Banks察who rose from bobbin boy in a cotton mill to Speaker of the United States House of Representatives and Major´General in the Civil War。

Next we hear of Howe in Boston察working in the shop of Ari Davis察an eccentric maker and repairer of fine machinery。 Here the young mechanic heard of the desirability of a sewing machine and began to puzzle over the problem。 Many an inventor before him had attempted to make sewing machines and some had just fallen short of success。 Thomas Saint察an Englishman察had patented one fifty years earlier察and about this very time a Frenchman named Thimmonier was working eighty sewing machines making army uniforms察when needle workers of Paris察fearing that the bread was to be taken from them察broke into his workroom and destroyed the machines。 Thimmonier tried again察but his machine never came into general use。 Several patents had been issued on sewing machines in the United States察but without any practical result。 An inventor named Walter Hunt had discovered the principle of the lock´stitch and had built a machine but had wearied of his work and abandoned his invention察just as success was in sight。 But Howe knew nothing of any of these inventors。 There is no evidence that he had ever seen the work of another。

The idea obsessed him to such an extent that he could do no other work察and yet he must live。 By this time he was married and had children察and his wages were only nine dollars a week。 Just then an old schoolmate察George Fisher察agreed to support his family and furnish him with five hundred dollars for materials and tools。 The attic in Fisher's house in Cambridge was Howe's workroom。 His first efforts were failures察but all at once the idea of the lock´stitch came to him。 Previously all machines except Hunt's察which was unknown察not having even been patented had used the chainstitch察wasteful of thread and easily unraveled。 The two threads of the lockstitch cross in the materials joined together察and the lines of stitches

show the same on both sides。 In short察the chainstitch is a crochet or knitting stitch察while the lockstitch is a weaving stitch。 Howe had been working at night and was on his way home察gloomy and despondent察when this idea dawned on his mind察probably rising out of his experience in the cotton mill。 The shuttle would be driven back and forth as in a loom察as he had seen it thousands of times察and passed through a loop of thread which the curved needle would throw out on the other side of the cloth察and the cloth would be fastened to the machine vertically by pins。 A curved arm would ply the needle with the motion of a pick´axe。 A handle attached to the fly´wheel would furnish the power。

On that design Howe made a machine which察crude as it was察sewed more rapidly than five of the swiftest needle workers。 But apparently to no purpose。 His machine was too expensive察it could sew only a straight seam察and it might easily get out of order。 The needle workers were opposed察as they have generally been察to any sort of laborsaving machinery察and there was no manufacturer willing to buy even one machine at the price Howe asked察three hundred dollars。

Howe's second model was an improvement on the first。 It was more compact and it ran more smoothly。 He had no money even to pay the fees necessary to get it patented。 Again Fisher came to the rescue and took Howe and his machine to Washington察paying all the expenses察and the patent was issued in September察1846。 But察as the machine still failed to find buyers察Fisher gave up hope。 He had invested about two thousand dollars which seemed gone forever察and he could not察or would not察invest more。 Howe returned temporarily to his father's farm察hoping for better times。

Meanwhile Howe had sent one of his brothers to London with a machine to see if a foothold could be found there察and in due time an encouraging report came to the destitute inventor。 A corsetmaker named Thomas had paid two hundred and fifty pounds for the English rights and had promised to pay a royalty of three pounds on each machine sold。 Moreover察Thomas invited the inventor to London to construct a machine especially for making corsets。 Howe went to London and later sent for his family。 But after working eight months on small wages察he was as badly off as ever察for察though he had produced the desired machine察he quarrelled with Thomas and their relations came to an end。

An acquaintance察Charles Inglis察advanced Howe a little money while he worked on another model。 This enabled Howe to send his family home to America察and then察by selling his last model and pawning his patent rights察he raised enough money to take passage himself in the steerage in 1848察accompanied by Inglis察who came to try his fortune in the United States。

Howe landed in New York with a few cents in his pocket and immediately found work。 But his wife was dying from the hardships she had suffered察due to stark poverty。 At her funeral察Howe wore borrowed clothes察for his only suit was the one he wore in the shop。

Then察soon after his wife had died察Howe's invention came into its own。 It transpired presently that sewing machines were being made and sold and that these machines were using the principles covered by Howe's patent。 Howe found an ally in George W。 Bliss察a man of means察who had faith in the machine and who bought out Fisher's interest and proceeded to prosecute infringers。 Meanwhile Howe went on making machineshe produced fourteen in New York during 1850and never lost an opportunity to show the merits of the invention which was being advertised and brought to notice by the activities of some of the infringers察particularly by Isaac M。 Singer察the best business man of them all。 Singer had joined hands with Walter Hunt and Hunt had tried to patent the machine which he had abandoned nearly twenty years before。

The suits dragged on until 1854察when the case was decisively settled in Howe's favor。 His patent was declared basic察and all the makers of sewing machines must pay him a royalty of twenty´five dollars on every machine。 So Howe woke one morning to find himself enjoying a large income察which in time rose as high as four thousand dollars a week察and he died in 1867 a rich man。

Though the basic nature of Howe's patent was recognized察his machine was only a rough beginning。 Improvements followed察one after another察until the sewing machine bore little resemblance to Howe's original。 John Bachelder introduced the horizontal table upon which to lay the work。 Through an opening in the table察tiny spikes in an endless belt projected and pushed the work for ward continuously。 Allan B。 Wilson devised a rotary hook carrying a bobbin to do the work of the shuttle察and also the small serrated bar which pops up through the table near the needle察moves forward a tiny space察carrying the cloth with it察drops down just below the upper surface of the table察and returns to its starting point察to repeat over and over again this series of motions。 This simple device brought its owner a fortune。 Isaac M。 Singer察destined to be the dominant figure of the industry察patented in 1851 a machine stronger than any of the others and with several valuable features察notably the vertical presser foot held down by a spring察and Singer was the first to adopt the treadle察leaving both hands of the operator free to manage the work。 His machine was good察but察rather than its surpassing merits察it was his wonderful business ability that made the name of Singer a household word。

By 1856 there were several manufacturers in the field察threatening war on each other。 All men were paying tribute to Howe察for his patent was basic察and all could join in fighting him察but there were several other devices almost equally fundamental察and even if Howe's patents had been declared void it is probable that his competitors would have fought quite as fiercely among themselves。 At the suggestion of George Gifford察a New York attorney察the leading inve

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