the twins of table mountain-第27节
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and in the midst of the masqueraders。
I remember to have been told that this was a characteristic annual
celebration of the lower classes； anticipated with eagerness； and
achieved with difficulty； indeed； often only through the
alternative of pawning clothing and furniture to provide the means
for this ephemeral transformation。 I remember being warned； also；
that the buffoonery was coarse； and some of the slang hardly fit
for 〃ears polite。〃 But I am afraid that I was not shocked at the
prodigality of these poor people； who purchased a holiday on such
hard conditions； and； as to the coarseness of the performance； I
felt that I certainly might go where these children could。
At first the masquerading figures appeared to be mainly composed of
young girls of ages varying from nine to eighteen。 Their costumes
if what was often only the addition of a broad； bright…colored
stripe to the hem of a short dress could be called a COSTUMEwere
plain； and seemed to indicate no particular historical epoch or
character。 A general suggestion of the peasant's holiday attire
was dominant in all the costumes。 Everybody was closely masked。
All carried a short； gayly…striped baton of split wood； called a
Pritsche； which； when struck sharply on the back or shoulders of
some spectator or sister…masker； emitted a clattering； rasping
sound。 To wander hand in hand down this broad allee； to strike
almost mechanically； and often monotonously； at each other with
their batons； seemed to be the extent of that wild dissipation。
The crowd thickened。 Young men with false noses； hideous masks；
cheap black or red cotton dominoes； soldiers in uniform； crowded
past each other； up and down the promenade； all carrying a
Pritsche； and exchanging blows with each other； but always with the
same slow seriousness of demeanor； which； with their silence； gave
the performance the effect of a religious rite。 Occasionally some
one shouted： perhaps a dozen young fellows broke out in song； but
the shout was provocative of nothing； the song faltered as if the
singers were frightened at their own voices。 One blithe fellow；
with a bear's head on his fur…capped shoulders； began to dance；
but； on the crowd stopping to observe him seriously； he apparently
thought better of it； and slipped away。 Nevertheless； the solemn
beating of Pritschen over each other's backs went on。 I remember
that I was followed the whole length of the allee by a little girl
scarcely twelve years old； in a bright striped skirt and black
mask； who from time to time struck me over the shoulders with a
regularity and sad persistency that was peculiarly irresistible to
me； the more so； as I could not help thinking that it was not half
as amusing to herself。 Once only did the ordinary brusque
gallantry of the Carnival spirit show itself。 A man with an
enormous pair of horns； like a half…civilized satyr； suddenly
seized a young girl and endeavored to kiss her。 A slight struggle
ensued； in which I fancied I detected in the girl's face and manner
the confusion and embarrassment of one who was obliged to overlook；
or seem to accept； a familiarity that was distasteful； rather than
be laughed at for prudishness or ignorance。 But the incident was
exceptional。 Indeed； it was particularly notable to my American
eyes to find such decorum where there might easily have been the
greatest license。 I am afraid that an American mob of this class
would have scarcely been as orderly and civil under the
circumstances。 They might have shown more humor； but there would
have probably been more effrontery： they might have been more
exuberant； they would certainly have been drunker。 I did not
notice a single masquerader unduly excited by liquor： there was not
a word or motion from the lighter sex that could have been
construed into an impropriety。 There was something almost pathetic
to me in this attempt to wrest gayety and excitement out of these
dull materials； to fight against the blackness of that wintry sky；
and the stubborn hardness of the frozen soil； with these painted
sticks of wood； to mock the dreariness of their poverty with these
flaunting raiments。 It did not seem like them； or rather；
consistent with my idea of them。 There was incongruity deeper than
their bizarre externals； a half…melancholy； half…crazy absurdity in
their action； the substitution of a grim spasmodic frenzy for
levity； that rightly or wrongly impressed me。 When the increasing
gloom of the evening made their figures undistinguishable； I turned
into the first cross…street。 As I lifted my hat to my persistent
young friend with the Pritsche； I fancied she looked as relieved as
myself。 If； however； I was mistaken； if that child's pathway
through life be strewn with rosy recollections of the unresisting
back of the stranger American； if any burden； O Gretchen！ laid upon
thy young shoulders； be lighter for the trifling one thou didst lay
upon mine；know； then； that I； too； am content。
And so； day by day； has my Spion reflected the various changing
forms of life before it。 It has seen the first flush of spring in
the broad allee； when the shadows of tiny leaflets overhead were
beginning to checker the cool； square flagstones。 It has seen the
glare and fulness of summer sunshine and shadow； the flying of
November gold through the air； the gaunt limbs； and stark； rigid；
death…like whiteness of winter。 It has seen children in their
queer； wicker baby…carriages； old men and women； and occasionally
that grim usher of death； in sable cloak and cocked hat；a baleful
figure for the wandering invalid tourist to meet；who acts as
undertaker for this ducal city； and marshals the last melancholy
procession。 I well remember my first meeting with this ominous
functionary。 It was an early autumnal morning； so early； that the
long formal perspective of the allee； and the decorous； smooth
vanishing…lines of cream…and…gray fronted houses； were unrelieved
by a single human figure。 Suddenly a tall black spectre； as
theatrical and as unreal as the painted scenic distance； turned the
corner from a cross…street； and moved slowly towards me。 A long
black cloak； falling from its shoulders to its feet； floated out on
either side like sable wings； a cocked hat trimmed with crape； and
surmounted by a hearse…like feather； covered a passionless face；
and its eyes； looking neither left nor right； were fixed fatefully
upon some distant goal。 Stranger as I was to this Continental
ceremonial figure； there was no mistaking his functions as the grim
messenger； knocking 〃with equal foot〃 on every door； and； indeed；
so perfectly did he act and look his role； that there was nothing
ludicrous in the extraordinary spectacle。 Facial expression and
dignity of bearing were perfect； the whole man seemed saturated
with the accepted sentiment of his office。 Recalling the half…
confused and half…conscious ostentatious hypocrisy of the American
sexton； the shameless absurdities of the English mutes and
mourners； I could not help feeling； that； if it were demanded that
Grief and Fate should be personified； it were better that it should
be well done。 And it is one observation of my Spion； that this
sincerity and belief is the characteristic of all Continental
functionaries。
It is possible that my Spion has shown me little that is really
characteristic of the people； and the few observations I have made
I offer only as an illustration of the impressions made upon two…
thirds of American strangers in the larger towns of Germany。
Assimilation goes on more rapidly than we are led to imagine。 As I
have seen my friend Karl； fresh and awkward in his first uniform；
lounging later down the allee with the blase listlessness of a
full…blown militaire； so I have seen American and English residents
gradually lose their peculiarities； and melt and merge into the
general mass。 Returning to my Spion after a flying trip through
Belgium and France； as I look down the long perspective of the
Strasse； I am conscious of recalling the same style of architecture
and humanity at Aachen； Brussels； Lille； and Paris； and am inclined
to believe that； even as I would have met； in a journey of the same
distance through a parallel of the same latitude in America； a
greater diversity of type and character； and a more distinct flavor
of locality； even so would I have met a more heterogeneous and
picturesque display from a club window on Fifth Avenue； New York；
or Montgomery Street； San Francisco。
End
