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jolly Jew girls were full of the sentiment of Sunday outings; 

breathed geniality and vagueness; and suffered a little vile 

boy from the hotel to lead them here and there about the 

woods。  For three people all so old; so bulky in body; and 

belonging to a race so venerable; they could not but surprise 

us by their extreme and almost imbecile youthfulness of 

spirit。  They were only going to stay ten minutes at the Toll 

House; had they not twenty long miles of road before them on 

the other side?  Stay to dinner?  Not they!  Put up the 

horses? Never。  Let us attach them to the verandah by a wisp 

of straw rope; such as would not have held a person's hat on 

that blustering day。  And with all these protestations of 

hurry; they proved irresponsible like children。  Kelmar 

himself; shrewd old Russian Jew; with a smirk that seemed 

just to have concluded a bargain to its satisfaction; 

intrusted himself and us devoutly to that boy。  Yet the boy 

was patently fallacious; and for that matter a most 

unsympathetic urchin; raised apparently on gingerbread。  He 

was bent on his own pleasure; nothing else; and Kelmar 

followed him to his ruin; with the same shrewd smirk。  If the 

boy said there was 〃a hole there in the hill〃 … a hole; pure 

and simple; neither more nor less … Kelmar and his Jew girls 

would follow him a hundred yards to look complacently down 

that hole。  For two hours we looked for houses; and for two 

hours they followed us; smelling trees; picking flowers; 

foisting false botany on the unwary。  Had we taken five; with 

that vile lad to head them off on idle divagations; for five 

they would have smiled and stumbled through the woods。



However; we came forth at length; and as by accident; upon a 

lawn; sparse planted like an orchard; but with forest instead 

of fruit trees。  That was the site of Silverado mining town。  

A piece of ground was levelled up; where Kelmar's store had 

been; and facing that we saw Rufe Hanson's house; still 

bearing on its front the legend SILVERADO HOTEL。  Not another 

sign of habitation。  Silverado town had all been carted from 

the scene; one of the houses was now the school…house far 

down the road; one was gone here; one there; but all were 

gone away。



It was now a sylvan solitude; and the silence was unbroken 

but by the great; vague voice of the wind。  Some days before 

our visit; a grizzly bear had been sporting round the 

Hansons' chicken…house。



Mrs。 Hanson was at home alone; we found。  Rufe had been out 

after a 〃bar;〃 had risen late; and was now gone; it did not 

clearly appear whither。  Perhaps he had had wind of Kelmar's 

coming; and was now ensconced among the underwood; or 

watching us from the shoulder of the mountain。  We; hearing 

there were no houses to be had; were for immediately giving 

up all hopes of Silverado。  But this; somehow; was not to 

Kelmar's fancy。  He first proposed that we should 〃camp 

someveres around; ain't it?〃 waving his hand cheerily as 

though to weave a spell; and when that was firmly rejected; 

he decided that we must take up house with the Hansons。  Mrs。 

Hanson had been; from the first; flustered; subdued; and a 

little pale; but from this proposition she recoiled with 

haggard indignation。  So did we; who would have preferred; in 

a manner of speaking; death。  But Kelmar was not to be put 

by。  He edged Mrs。 Hanson into a corner; where for a long 

time he threatened her with his forefinger; like a character 

in Dickens; and the poor woman; driven to her entrenchments; 

at last remembered with a shriek that there were still some 

houses at the tunnel。



Thither we went; the Jews; who should already have been miles 

into Lake County; still cheerily accompanying us。  For about 

a furlong we followed a good road alone; the hillside through 

the forest; until suddenly that road widened out and came 

abruptly to an end。  A canyon; woody below; red; rocky; and 

naked overhead; was here walled across by a dump of rolling 

stones; dangerously steep; and from twenty to thirty feet in 

height。  A rusty iron chute on wooden legs came flying; like 

a monstrous gargoyle; across the parapet。  It was down this 

that they poured the precious ore; and below here the carts 

stood to wait their lading; and carry it mill…ward down the 

mountain。



The whole canyon was so entirely blocked; as if by some rude 

guerilla fortification; that we could only mount by lengths 

of wooden ladder; fixed in the hillside。  These led us round 

the farther corner of the dump; and when they were at an end; 

we still persevered over loose rubble and wading deep in 

poison oak; till we struck a triangular platform; filling up 

the whole glen; and shut in on either hand by bold 

projections of the mountain。  Only in front the place was 

open like the proscenium of a theatre; and we looked forth 

into a great realm of air; and down upon treetops and 

hilltops; and far and near on wild and varied country。  The 

place still stood as on the day it was deserted:  a line of 

iron rails with a bifurcation; a truck in working order; a 

world of lumber; old wood; old iron; a blacksmith's forge on 

one side; half buried in the leaves of dwarf madronas; and on 

the other; an old brown wooden house。



Fanny and I dashed at the house。  It consisted of three 

rooms; and was so plastered against the hill; that one room 

was right atop of another; that the upper floor was more than 

twice as large as the lower; and that all three apartments 

must be entered from a different side and level。  Not a 

window…sash remained。



The door of the lower room was smashed; and one panel hung in 

splinters。  We entered that; and found a fair amount of 

rubbish:  sand and gravel that had been sifted in there by 

the mountain winds; straw; sticks; and stones; a table; a 

barrel; a plate…rack on the wall; two home…made bootjacks; 

signs of miners and their boots; and a pair of papers pinned 

on the boarding; headed respectively 〃Funnel No。 1;〃 and 

〃Funnel No。 2;〃 but with the tails torn away。  The window; 

sashless of course; was choked with the green and sweetly 

smelling foliage of a bay; and through a chink in the floor; 

a spray of poison oak had shot up and was handsomely 

prospering in the interior。  It was my first care to cut away 

that poison oak; Fanny standing by at a respectful distance。  

That was our first improvement by which we took possession。



The room immediately above could only be entered by a plank 

propped against the threshold; along which the intruder must 

foot it gingerly; clutching for support to sprays of poison 

oak; the proper product of the country。  Herein was; on 

either hand; a triple tier of beds; where miners had once 

lain; and the other gable was pierced by a sashless window 

and a doorless doorway opening on the air of heaven; five 

feet above the ground。  As for the third room; which entered 

squarely from the ground level; but higher up the hill and 

farther up the canyon; it contained only rubbish and the 

uprights for another triple tier of beds。



The whole building was overhung by a bold; lion…like; red 

rock。 Poison oak; sweet bay trees; calcanthus; brush; and 

chaparral; grew freely but sparsely all about it。 In front; 

in the strong sunshine; the platform lay overstrewn with busy 

litter; as though the labours of the mine might begin again 

to…morrow in the morning。



Following back into the canyon; among the mass of rotting 

plant and through the flowering bushes; we came to a great 

crazy staging; with a wry windless on the top; and clambering 

up; we could look into an open shaft; leading edgeways down 

into the bowels of the mountain; trickling with water; and 

lit by some stray sun…gleams; whence I know not。  In that 

quiet place the still; far…away tinkle of the water…drops was 

loudly audible。  Close by; another shaft led edgeways up into 

the superincumbent shoulder of the hill。  It lay partly open; 

and sixty or a hundred feet above our head; we could see the 

strata propped apart by solid wooden wedges; and a pine; half 

undermined; precariously nodding on the verge。  Here also a 

rugged; horizontal tunnel ran straight into the unsunned 

bowels of the rock。  This secure angle in the mountain's 

flank was; even on this wild day; as still as my lady's 

chamber。  But in the tunnel a cold; wet draught tempestuously 

blew。  Nor have I ever known that place otherwise than cold 

and windy。



Such was our fist prospect of Juan Silverado。  I own I had 

looked for something different:  a clique of neighbourly 

houses on a village green; we shall say; all empty to be 

sure; but swept and varnished; a trout stream brawling by; 

great elms or chestnuts; humming with bees and nested in by 

song…birds; and the mountains standing round about; as at 

Jerusalem。  Here; mountain and house and the old tools of 

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