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buried among good Scots clods。  I will say it fairly; it 

grows on me with every year:  there are no stars so lovely as 

Edinburgh street…lamps。  When I forget thee; auld Reekie; may 

my right hand forget its cunning!



The happiest lot on earth is to be born a Scotchman。  You 

must pay for it in many ways; as for all other advantages on 

earth。  You have to learn the paraphrases and the shorter 

catechism; you generally take to drink; your youth; as far as 

I can find out; is a time of louder war against society; of 

more outcry and tears and turmoil; than if you had been born; 

for instance; in England。  But somehow life is warmer and 

closer; the hearth burns more redly; the lights of home shine 

softer on the rainy street; the very names; endeared in verse 

and music; cling nearer round our hearts。  An Englishman may 

meet an Englishman to…morrow; upon Chimborazo; and neither of 

them care; but when the Scotch wine…grower told me of Mons 

Meg; it was like magic。





〃From the dim shieling on the misty island

Mountains divide us; and a world of seas;

Yet still our hearts are true; our hearts are Highland;

And we; in dreams; behold the Hebrides。〃





And; Highland and Lowland; all our hearts are Scotch。



Only a few days after I had seen M'Eckron; a message reached 

me in my cottage。  It was a Scotchman who had come down a 

long way from the hills to market。  He had heard there was a 

countryman in Calistoga; and came round to the hotel to see 

him。  We said a few words to each other; we had not much to 

say … should never have seen each other had we stayed at 

home; separated alike in space and in society; and then we 

shook hands; and he went his way again to his ranche among 

the hills; and that was all。



Another Scotchman there was; a resident; who for the more 

love of the common country; douce; serious; religious man; 

drove me all about the valley; and took as much interest in 

me as if I had been his son:  more; perhaps; for the son has 

faults too keenly felt; while the abstract countryman is 

perfect … like a whiff of peats。



And there was yet another。  Upon him I came suddenly; as he 

was calmly entering my cottage; his mind quite evidently bent 

on plunder:  a man of about fifty; filthy; ragged; roguish; 

with a chimney…pot hat and a tail coat; and a pursing of his 

mouth that might have been envied by an elder of the kirk。  

He had just such a face as I have seen a dozen times behind 

the plate。



〃Hullo; sir!〃 I cried。  〃Where are you going?〃



He turned round without a quiver。



〃You're a Scotchman; sir?〃 he said gravely。  〃So am I; I come 

from Aberdeen。  This is my card;〃 presenting me with a piece 

of pasteboard which he had raked out of some gutter in the 

period of the rains。  〃I was just examining this palm;〃 he 

continued; indicating the misbegotten plant before our door; 

〃which is the largest spAcimen I have yet observed in 

Califoarnia。〃



There were four or five larger within sight。  But where was 

the use of argument?  He produced a tape…line; made me help 

him to measure the tree at the level of the ground; and 

entered the figures in a large and filthy pocket…book; all 

with the gravity of Solomon。  He then thanked me profusely; 

remarking that such little services were due between 

countrymen; shook hands with me; 〃for add lang syne;〃 as he 

said; and took himself solemnly away; radiating dirt and 

humbug as he went。



A month or two after this encounter of mine; there came a 

Scot to Sacramento … perhaps from Aberdeen。  Anyway; there 

never was any one more Scotch in this wide world。  He could 

sing and dance; and drink; I presume; and he played the pipes 

with vigour and success。  All the Scotch in Sacramento became 

infatuated with him; and spent their spare time and money; 

driving him about in an open cab; between drinks; while he 

blew himself scarlet at the pipes。  This is a very sad story。  

After he had borrowed money from every one; he and his pipes 

suddenly disappeared from Sacramento; and when I last heard; 

the police were looking for him。



I cannot say how this story amused me; when I felt myself so 

thoroughly ripe on both sides to be duped in the same way。



It is at least a curious thing; to conclude; that the races 

which wander widest; Jews and Scotch; should be the most 

clannish in the world。  But perhaps these two are cause and 

effect:  〃For ye were strangers in the land of Egypt。〃









PART II … WITH THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL









CHAPTER I。 … TO INTRODUCE MR。 KELMAR







ONE thing in this new country very particularly strikes a 

stranger; and that is the number of antiquities。  Already 

there have been many cycles of population succeeding each 

other; and passing away and leaving behind them relics。  

These; standing on into changed times; strike the imagination 

as forcibly as any pyramid or feudal tower。  The towns; like 

the vineyards; are experimentally founded:  they grow great 

and prosper by passing occasions; and when the lode comes to 

an end; and the miners move elsewhere; the town remains 

behind them; like Palmyra in the desert。  I suppose there 

are; in no country in the world; so many deserted towns as 

here in California。



The whole neighbourhood of Mount Saint Helena; now so quiet 

and sylvan; was once alive with mining camps and villages。  

Here there would be two thousand souls under canvas; there 

one thousand or fifteen hundred ensconced; as if for ever; in 

a town of comfortable houses。  But the luck had failed; the 

mines petered out; and the army of miners had departed; and 

left this quarter of the world to the rattlesnakes and deer 

and grizzlies; and to the slower but steadier advance of 

husbandry。



It was with an eye on one of these deserted places; Pine 

Flat; on the Geysers road; that we had come first to 

Calistoga。  There is something singularly enticing in the 

idea of going; rent…free; into a ready…made house。  And to 

the British merchant; sitting at home at ease; it may appear 

that; with such a roof over your head and a spring of clear 

water hard by; the whole problem of the squatter's existence 

would be solved。  Food; however; has yet to be considered; I 

will go as far as most people on tinned meats; some of the 

brightest moments of my life were passed over tinned mulli…

gatawney in the cabin of a sixteen…ton schooner; storm…stayed 

in Portree Bay; but after suitable experiments; I pronounce 

authoritatively that man cannot live by tins alone。  Fresh 

meat must be had on an occasion。  It is true that the great 

Foss; driving by along the Geysers road; wooden…faced; but 

glorified with legend; might have been induced to bring us 

meat; but the great Foss could hardly bring us milk。  To take 

a cow would have involved taking a field of grass and a 

milkmaid; after which it would have been hardly worth while 

to pause; and we might have added to our colony a flock of 

sheep and an experienced butcher。



It is really very disheartening how we depend on other people 

in this life。  〃Mihi est propositum;〃 as you may see by the 

motto; 〃id quod regibus;〃 and behold it cannot be carried 

out; unless I find a neighbour rolling in cattle。



Now; my principal adviser in this matter was one whom I will 

call Kelmar。  That was not what he called himself; but as 

soon as I set eyes on him; I knew it was or ought to be his 

name; I am sure it will be his name among the angels。  Kelmar 

was the store…keeper; a Russian Jew; good…natured; in a very 

thriving way of business; and; on equal terms; one of the 

most serviceable of men。  He also had something of the 

expression of a Scotch country elder; who; by some 

peculiarity; should chance to be a Hebrew。  He had a 

projecting under lip; with which he continually smiled; or 

rather smirked。  Mrs。 Kelmar was a singularly kind woman; and 

the oldest son had quite a dark and romantic bearing; and 

might be heard on summer evenings playing sentimental airs on 

the violin。



I had no idea; at the time I made his acquaintance; what an 

important person Kelmar was。  But the Jew store…keepers of 

California; profiting at once by the needs and habits of the 

people; have made themselves in too many cases the tyrants of 

the rural population。  Credit is offered; is pressed on the 

new customer; and when once he is beyond his depth; the tune 

changes; and he is from thenceforth a white slave。  I 

believe; even from the little I saw; that Kelmar; if he 

choose to put on the screw; could send half the settlers 

packing in a radius of seven or eight miles round Calistoga。  

These are continually paying him; but are never suffered to 

get out of debt。  He palms dull goods upon them; for they 

dare not refuse to buy; he goes and dines with them when he 

is on an outing; and no man is loudlier welcom

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