the silverado squatters-第5节
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buried among good Scots clods。 I will say it fairly; it
grows on me with every year: there are no stars so lovely as
Edinburgh street…lamps。 When I forget thee; auld Reekie; may
my right hand forget its cunning!
The happiest lot on earth is to be born a Scotchman。 You
must pay for it in many ways; as for all other advantages on
earth。 You have to learn the paraphrases and the shorter
catechism; you generally take to drink; your youth; as far as
I can find out; is a time of louder war against society; of
more outcry and tears and turmoil; than if you had been born;
for instance; in England。 But somehow life is warmer and
closer; the hearth burns more redly; the lights of home shine
softer on the rainy street; the very names; endeared in verse
and music; cling nearer round our hearts。 An Englishman may
meet an Englishman to…morrow; upon Chimborazo; and neither of
them care; but when the Scotch wine…grower told me of Mons
Meg; it was like magic。
〃From the dim shieling on the misty island
Mountains divide us; and a world of seas;
Yet still our hearts are true; our hearts are Highland;
And we; in dreams; behold the Hebrides。〃
And; Highland and Lowland; all our hearts are Scotch。
Only a few days after I had seen M'Eckron; a message reached
me in my cottage。 It was a Scotchman who had come down a
long way from the hills to market。 He had heard there was a
countryman in Calistoga; and came round to the hotel to see
him。 We said a few words to each other; we had not much to
say … should never have seen each other had we stayed at
home; separated alike in space and in society; and then we
shook hands; and he went his way again to his ranche among
the hills; and that was all。
Another Scotchman there was; a resident; who for the more
love of the common country; douce; serious; religious man;
drove me all about the valley; and took as much interest in
me as if I had been his son: more; perhaps; for the son has
faults too keenly felt; while the abstract countryman is
perfect … like a whiff of peats。
And there was yet another。 Upon him I came suddenly; as he
was calmly entering my cottage; his mind quite evidently bent
on plunder: a man of about fifty; filthy; ragged; roguish;
with a chimney…pot hat and a tail coat; and a pursing of his
mouth that might have been envied by an elder of the kirk。
He had just such a face as I have seen a dozen times behind
the plate。
〃Hullo; sir!〃 I cried。 〃Where are you going?〃
He turned round without a quiver。
〃You're a Scotchman; sir?〃 he said gravely。 〃So am I; I come
from Aberdeen。 This is my card;〃 presenting me with a piece
of pasteboard which he had raked out of some gutter in the
period of the rains。 〃I was just examining this palm;〃 he
continued; indicating the misbegotten plant before our door;
〃which is the largest spAcimen I have yet observed in
Califoarnia。〃
There were four or five larger within sight。 But where was
the use of argument? He produced a tape…line; made me help
him to measure the tree at the level of the ground; and
entered the figures in a large and filthy pocket…book; all
with the gravity of Solomon。 He then thanked me profusely;
remarking that such little services were due between
countrymen; shook hands with me; 〃for add lang syne;〃 as he
said; and took himself solemnly away; radiating dirt and
humbug as he went。
A month or two after this encounter of mine; there came a
Scot to Sacramento … perhaps from Aberdeen。 Anyway; there
never was any one more Scotch in this wide world。 He could
sing and dance; and drink; I presume; and he played the pipes
with vigour and success。 All the Scotch in Sacramento became
infatuated with him; and spent their spare time and money;
driving him about in an open cab; between drinks; while he
blew himself scarlet at the pipes。 This is a very sad story。
After he had borrowed money from every one; he and his pipes
suddenly disappeared from Sacramento; and when I last heard;
the police were looking for him。
I cannot say how this story amused me; when I felt myself so
thoroughly ripe on both sides to be duped in the same way。
It is at least a curious thing; to conclude; that the races
which wander widest; Jews and Scotch; should be the most
clannish in the world。 But perhaps these two are cause and
effect: 〃For ye were strangers in the land of Egypt。〃
PART II … WITH THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL
CHAPTER I。 … TO INTRODUCE MR。 KELMAR
ONE thing in this new country very particularly strikes a
stranger; and that is the number of antiquities。 Already
there have been many cycles of population succeeding each
other; and passing away and leaving behind them relics。
These; standing on into changed times; strike the imagination
as forcibly as any pyramid or feudal tower。 The towns; like
the vineyards; are experimentally founded: they grow great
and prosper by passing occasions; and when the lode comes to
an end; and the miners move elsewhere; the town remains
behind them; like Palmyra in the desert。 I suppose there
are; in no country in the world; so many deserted towns as
here in California。
The whole neighbourhood of Mount Saint Helena; now so quiet
and sylvan; was once alive with mining camps and villages。
Here there would be two thousand souls under canvas; there
one thousand or fifteen hundred ensconced; as if for ever; in
a town of comfortable houses。 But the luck had failed; the
mines petered out; and the army of miners had departed; and
left this quarter of the world to the rattlesnakes and deer
and grizzlies; and to the slower but steadier advance of
husbandry。
It was with an eye on one of these deserted places; Pine
Flat; on the Geysers road; that we had come first to
Calistoga。 There is something singularly enticing in the
idea of going; rent…free; into a ready…made house。 And to
the British merchant; sitting at home at ease; it may appear
that; with such a roof over your head and a spring of clear
water hard by; the whole problem of the squatter's existence
would be solved。 Food; however; has yet to be considered; I
will go as far as most people on tinned meats; some of the
brightest moments of my life were passed over tinned mulli…
gatawney in the cabin of a sixteen…ton schooner; storm…stayed
in Portree Bay; but after suitable experiments; I pronounce
authoritatively that man cannot live by tins alone。 Fresh
meat must be had on an occasion。 It is true that the great
Foss; driving by along the Geysers road; wooden…faced; but
glorified with legend; might have been induced to bring us
meat; but the great Foss could hardly bring us milk。 To take
a cow would have involved taking a field of grass and a
milkmaid; after which it would have been hardly worth while
to pause; and we might have added to our colony a flock of
sheep and an experienced butcher。
It is really very disheartening how we depend on other people
in this life。 〃Mihi est propositum;〃 as you may see by the
motto; 〃id quod regibus;〃 and behold it cannot be carried
out; unless I find a neighbour rolling in cattle。
Now; my principal adviser in this matter was one whom I will
call Kelmar。 That was not what he called himself; but as
soon as I set eyes on him; I knew it was or ought to be his
name; I am sure it will be his name among the angels。 Kelmar
was the store…keeper; a Russian Jew; good…natured; in a very
thriving way of business; and; on equal terms; one of the
most serviceable of men。 He also had something of the
expression of a Scotch country elder; who; by some
peculiarity; should chance to be a Hebrew。 He had a
projecting under lip; with which he continually smiled; or
rather smirked。 Mrs。 Kelmar was a singularly kind woman; and
the oldest son had quite a dark and romantic bearing; and
might be heard on summer evenings playing sentimental airs on
the violin。
I had no idea; at the time I made his acquaintance; what an
important person Kelmar was。 But the Jew store…keepers of
California; profiting at once by the needs and habits of the
people; have made themselves in too many cases the tyrants of
the rural population。 Credit is offered; is pressed on the
new customer; and when once he is beyond his depth; the tune
changes; and he is from thenceforth a white slave。 I
believe; even from the little I saw; that Kelmar; if he
choose to put on the screw; could send half the settlers
packing in a radius of seven or eight miles round Calistoga。
These are continually paying him; but are never suffered to
get out of debt。 He palms dull goods upon them; for they
dare not refuse to buy; he goes and dines with them when he
is on an outing; and no man is loudlier welcom