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第19节

the silverado squatters-第19节

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day。  Thenceforth my wife laboured single…handed in the 

palace; and I lay or wandered on the platform at my own sweet 

will。  The little corner near the forge; where we found a 

refuge under the madronas from the unsparing early sun; is 

indeed connected in my mind with some nightmare encounters 

over Euclid; and the Latin Grammar。  These were known as 

Sam's lessons。  He was supposed to be the victim and the 

sufferer; but here there must have been some misconception; 

for whereas I generally retired to bed after one of these 

engagements; he was no sooner set free than he dashed up to 

the Chinaman's house; where he had installed a printing 

press; that great element of civilization; and the sound of 

his labours would be faintly audible about the canyon half 

the day。



To walk at all was a laborious business; the foot sank and 

slid; the boots were cut to pieces; among sharp; uneven; 

rolling stones。  When we crossed the platform in any 

direction; it was usual to lay a course; following as much as 

possible the line of waggon rails。  Thus; if water were to be 

drawn; the water…carrier left the house along some tilting 

planks that we had laid down; and not laid down very well。  

These carried him to that great highroad; the railway; and 

the railway served him as far as to the head of the shaft。  

But from thence to the spring and back again he made the best 

of his unaided way; staggering among the stones; and wading 

in low growth of the calcanthus; where the rattlesnakes lay 

hissing at his passage。  Yet I liked to draw water。  It was 

pleasant to dip the gray metal pail into the clean; 

colourless; cool water; pleasant to carry it back; with the 

water ripping at the edge; and a broken sunbeam quivering in 

the midst。



But the extreme roughness of the walking confined us in 

common practice to the platform; and indeed to those parts of 

it that were most easily accessible along the line of rails。  

The rails came straight forward from the shaft; here and 

there overgrown with little green bushes; but still entire; 

and still carrying a truck; which it was Sam's delight to 

trundle to and fro by the hour with various ladings。  About 

midway down the platform; the railroad trended to the right; 

leaving our house and coasting along the far side within a 

few yards of the madronas and the forge; and not far of the 

latter; ended in a sort of platform on the edge of the dump。  

There; in old days; the trucks were tipped; and their load 

sent thundering down the chute。  There; besides; was the only 

spot where we could approach the margin of the dump。  

Anywhere else; you took your life in your right hand when you 

came within a yard and a half to peer over。  For at any 

moment the dump might begin to slide and carry you down and 

bury you below its ruins。  Indeed; the neighbourhood of an 

old mine is a place beset with dangers。  For as still as 

Silverado was; at any moment the report of rotten wood might 

tell us that the platform had fallen into the shaft; the dump 

might begin to pour into the road below; or a wedge slip in 

the great upright seam; and hundreds of tons of mountain bury 

the scene of our encampment。



I have already compared the dump to a rampart; built 

certainly by some rude people; and for prehistoric wars。  It 

was likewise a frontier。  All below was green and woodland; 

the tall pines soaring one above another; each with a firm 

outline and full spread of bough。  All above was arid; rocky; 

and bald。  The great spout of broken mineral; that had dammed 

the canyon up; was a creature of man's handiwork; its 

material dug out with a pick and powder; and spread by the 

service of the tracks。  But nature herself; in that upper 

district; seemed to have had an eye to nothing besides 

mining; and even the natural hill…side was all sliding gravel 

and precarious boulder。  Close at the margin of the well 

leaves would decay to skeletons and mummies; which at length 

some stronger gust would carry clear of the canyon and 

scatter in the subjacent woods。  Even moisture and decaying 

vegetable matter could not; with all nature's alchemy; 

concoct enough soil to nourish a few poor grasses。  It is the 

same; they say; in the neighbourhood of all silver mines; the 

nature of that precious rock being stubborn with quartz and 

poisonous with cinnabar。  Both were plenty in our Silverado。  

The stones sparkled white in the sunshine with quartz; they 

were all stained red with cinnabar。  Here; doubtless; came 

the Indians of yore to paint their faces for the war…path; 

and cinnabar; if I remember rightly; was one of the few 

articles of Indian commerce。  Now; Sam had it in his 

undisturbed possession; to pound down and slake; and paint 

his rude designs with。  But to me it had always a fine 

flavour of poetry; compounded out of Indian story and 

Hawthornden's allusion:





〃Desire; alas! I desire a Zeuxis new;

From Indies borrowing gold; from Eastern skies

Most bright cinoper 。 。 。〃





Yet this is but half the picture; our Silverado platform has 

another side to it。  Though there was no soil; and scarce a 

blade of grass; yet out of these tumbled gravel…heaps and 

broken boulders; a flower garden bloomed as at home in a 

conservatory。  Calcanthus crept; like a hardy weed; all over 

our rough parlour; choking the railway; and pushing forth its 

rusty; aromatic cones from between two blocks of shattered 

mineral。  Azaleas made a big snow…bed just above the well。  

The shoulder of the hill waved white with Mediterranean 

heath。  In the crannies of the ledge and about the spurs of 

the tall pine; a red flowering stone…plant hung in clusters。  

Even the low; thorny chaparral was thick with pea…like 

blossom。  Close at the foot of our path nutmegs prospered; 

delightful to the sight and smell。  At sunrise; and again 

late at night; the scent of the sweet bay trees filled the 

canyon; and the down…blowing night wind must have borne it 

hundreds of feet into the outer air。



All this vegetation; to be sure; was stunted。  The madrona 

was here no bigger than the manzanita; the bay was but a 

stripling shrub; the very pines; with four or five exceptions 

in all our upper canyon; were not so tall as myself; or but a 

little taller; and the most of them came lower than my waist。  

For a prosperous forest tree; we must look below; where the 

glen was crowded with green spires。  But for flowers and 

ravishing perfume; we had none to envy:  our heap of road…

metal was thick with bloom; like a hawthorn in the front of 

June; our red; baking angle in the mountain; a laboratory of 

poignant scents。  It was an endless wonder to my mind; as I 

dreamed about the platform; following the progress of the 

shadows; where the madrona with its leaves; the azalea and 

calcanthus with their blossoms; could find moisture to 

support such thick; wet; waxy growths; or the bay tree 

collect the ingredients of its perfume。  But there they all 

grew together; healthy; happy; and happy…making; as though 

rooted in a fathom of black soil。



Nor was it only vegetable life that prospered。  We had; 

indeed; few birds; and none that had much of a voice or 

anything worthy to be called a song。  My morning comrade had 

a thin chirp; unmusical and monotonous; but friendly and 

pleasant to hear。  He had but one rival:  a fellow with an 

ostentatious cry of near an octave descending; not one note 

of which properly followed another。  This is the only bird I 

ever knew with a wrong ear; but there was something 

enthralling about his performance。  You listened and 

listened; thinking each time he must surely get it right; but 

no; it was always wrong; and always wrong the same way。  Yet 

he seemed proud of his song; delivered it with execution and 

a manner of his own; and was charming to his mate。  A very 

incorrect; incessant human whistler had thus a chance of 

knowing how his own music pleased the world。  Two great birds 

… eagles; we thought … dwelt at the top of the canyon; among 

the crags that were printed on the sky。  Now and again; but 

very rarely; they wheeled high over our heads in silence; or 

with a distant; dying scream; and then; with a fresh impulse; 

winged fleetly forward; dipped over a hilltop; and were gone。  

They seemed solemn and ancient things; sailing the blue air:  

perhaps co…oeval with the mountain where they haunted; 

perhaps emigrants from Rome; where the glad legions may have 

shouted to behold them on the morn of battle。



But if birds were rare; the place abounded with rattlesnakes 

… the rattlesnake's nest; it might have been named。  Wherever 

we brushed among the bushes; our passage woke their angry 

buzz。  One dwelt habitually in the wood…pile; and sometimes; 

when we came for firewood; thrust up his small head between 

two logs; and hissed at the intrusion。  The rattle 

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