the complete writings-2-第9节

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ge　of　Assmannshausen；　on　the　hills　back　of　which　is　grown　the　famous　red　wine　of　that　name。　　On　the　bank　walked　in　line　a　dozen　peasants；　men　and　women；　in　picturesque　dress；　towing；　by　a　line　passed　from　shoulder　to　shoulder；　a　boat　filled　with　marketing　for　Rudesheim。　　We　were　bound　up　the　Niederwald；　the　mountain　opposite　Bingen；　whose　noble　crown　of　forest　attracted　us。　　At　the　landing；　donkeys　awaited　us；　and　we　began　the　ascent；　a　stout；　good…natured　German　girl　acting　as　guide　and　driver。　　Behind　us；　on　the　opposite　shore；　set　round　about　with　a　wealth　of　foliage；　was　the　Castle　of　Rheinstein；　a　fortress　more　pleasing　in　its　proportions　and　situation　than　any　other。　　Our　way　was　through　the　little　town　which　is　jammed　into　the　gorge；　and　as　we　clattered　up　the　pavement；　past　the　church；　its　heavy　bell　began　to　ring　loudly　for　matins；　the　sound　reverberating　in　the　narrow　way；　and　following　us　with　its　benediction　when　we　were　far　up　the　hill；　breathing　the　fresh；　inspiring　morning　air。　　The　top　of　the　Niederwald　is　a　splendid　forest　of　trees；　which　no　impious　Frenchman　has　been　allowed　to　trim；　and　cut　into　allees　of　arches；　taking　one　in　thought　across　the　water　to　the　free　Adirondacks。　　We　walked　for　a　long　time　under　the　welcome　shade；　approaching　the　brow　of　the　hill　now　and　then；　where　some　tower　or　hermitage　is　erected；　for　a　view　of　the　Rhine　and　the　Nahe；　the　villages　below；　and　the　hills　around；　and　then　crossed　the　mountain；　down　through　cherry　orchards；　and　vine　yards；　walled　up；　with　images　of　Christ　on　the　cross　on　the　angles　of　the　walls；　down　through　a　hot　road　where　wild　flowers　grew　in　great　variety；　to　the　quaint　village　of　Rudesheim；　with　its　queer　streets　and　ancient　ruins。　　Is　it　possible　that　we　can　have　too　many　ruins？　　〃Oh　dear！〃　exclaimed　the　jung…frau　as　we　sailed　along　the　last　day；　〃if　there　is　n't　another　castle！〃




HEIDELBERG

If　you　come　to　Heidelberg；　you　will　never　want　to　go　away。　　To　arrive　here　is　to　come　into　a　peaceful　state　of　rest　and　content。　　The　great　hills　out　of　which　the　Neckar　flows；　infold　the　town　in　a　sweet　security；　and　yet　there　is　no　sense　of　imprisonment；　for　the　view　is　always　wide　open　to　the　great　plains　where　the　Neckar　goes　to　join　the　Rhine；　and　where　the　Rhine　runs　for　many　a　league　through　a　rich　and　smiling　land。　　One　could　settle　down　here　to　study；　without　a　desire　to　go　farther；　nor　any　wish　to　change　the　dingy；　shabby　old　buildings　of　the　university　for　anything　newer　and　smarter。　　What　the　students　can　find　to　fight　their　little　duels　about　I　cannot　see；　but　fight　they　do；　as　many　a　scarred　cheek　attests。　　The　students　give　life　to　the　town。　　They　go　about　in　little　caps　of　red；　green；　and　blue；　many　of　them　embroidered　in　gold；　and　stuck　so　far　on　the　forehead　that　they　require　an　elastic；　like　that　worn　by　ladies；　under　the　back　hair；　to　keep　them　on；　and　they　are　also　distinguished　by　colored　ribbons　across　the　breast。　The　majority　of　them　are　well…behaved　young　gentlemen；　who　carry　switch…canes；　and　try　to　keep　near　the　fashions；　like　students　at　home。　　Some　like　to　swagger　about　in　their　little　skull…caps；　and　now　and　then　one　is　attended　by　a　bull…dog。

I　write　in　a　room　which　opens　out　upon　a　balcony。　　Below　it　is　a　garden；　below　that　foliage；　and　farther　down　the　town　with　its　old　speckled　roofs；　spires；　and　queer　little　squares。　　Beyond　is　the　Neckar；　with　the　bridge；　and　white　statues　on　it；　and　an　old　city　gate　at　this　end；　with　pointed　towers。　　Beyond　that　is　a　white　road　with　a　wall　on　one　side；　along　which　I　see　peasant　women　walking　with　large　baskets　balanced　on　their　heads。　　The　road　runs　down　the　river　to　Neuenheim。　　Above　it　on　the　steep　hillside　are　vineyards；　and　a　winding　path　goes　up　to　the　Philosopher's　Walk；　which　runs　along　for　a　mile　or　more；　giving　delightful　views　of　the　castle　and　the　glorious　woods　and　hills　back　of　it。　　Above　it　is　the　mountain　of　Heiligenberg；　from　the　other　side　of　which　one　looks　off　toward　Darmstadt　and　the　famous　road；　the　Bergstrasse。　　If　I　look　down　the　stream；　I　see　the　narrow　town；　and　the　Neckar　flowing　out　of　it　into　the　vast　level　plain；　rich　with　grain　and　trees　and　grass；　with　many　spires　and　villages；　Mannheim　to　the　northward；　shining　when　the　sun　is　low；　the　Rhine　gleaming　here　and　there　near　the　horizon；　and　the　Vosges　Mountains；　purple　in　the　last　distance：　on　my　right；　and　so　near　that　I　could　throw　a　stone　into　them；　the　ruined　tower　and　battlements　of　the　northwest　corner　of　the　castle；　half　hidden　in　foliage；　with　statues　framed　in　ivy；　and　the　garden　terrace；　built　for　Elizabeth　Stuart　when　she　came　here　the　bride　of　the　Elector　Frederick；　where　giant　trees　grow。　　Under　the　walls　a　steep　path　goes　down　into　the　town；　along　which　little　houses　cling　to　the　hillside。　High　above　the　castle　rises　the　noble　Konigstuhl；　whence　the　whole　of　this　part　of　Germany　is　visible；　and；　in　a　clear　day；　Strasburg　Minster；　ninety　miles　away。

I　have　only　to　go　a　few　steps　up　a　narrow；　steep　street；　lined　with　the　queerest　houses；　where　is　an　ever…running　pipe　of　good　water；　to　which　all　the　neighborhood　resorts；　and　I　am　within　the　grounds　of　the　castle。　　I　scarcely　know　where　to　take　you；　for　I　never　know　where　to　go　myself；　and　seldom　do　go　where　I　intend　when　I　set　forth。　We　have　been　here　several　days；　and　I　have　not　yet　seen　the　Great　Tun；　nor　the　inside　of　the　show…rooms；　nor　scarcely　anything　that　is　set　down　as　a　〃sight。〃　I　do　not　know　whether　to　wander　on　through　the　extensive　grounds；　with　splendid　trees；　bits　of　old　ruin；　overgrown；　cozy　nooks；　and　seats　where；　through　the　foliage；　distant　prospects　open　into　quiet　retreats　that　lead　to　winding　walks　up　the　terraced　hill；　round　to　the　open　terrace　overlooking　the　Neckar；　and　giving　the　best　general　view　of　the　great　mass　of　ruins。　　If　we　do；　we　shall　be　likely　to　sit　in　some　delicious　place；　listening　to　the　band　playing　in　the　〃Restauration；〃　and　to　the　nightingales；　till　the　moon　comes　up。　　Or　shall　we　turn　into　the　garden　through　the　lovely　Arch　of　the　Princess　Elizabeth；　with　its　stone　columns　cut　to　resemble　tree…trunks　twined　with　ivy？　　Or　go　rather　through　the　great　archway；　and　under　the　teeth　of　the　portcullis；　into　the　irregular　quadrangle；　whose　buildings　mark　the　changing　style　and　fortune　of　successive　centuries；　from　1300　down　to　the　seventeenth　century？　　There　is　probably　no　richer　quadrangle　in　Europe：　there　is　certainly　no　other　ruin　so　vast；　so　impressive；　so　ornamented　with　carving；　except　the　Alhambra。　　And　from　here　we　pass　out　upon　the　broad　terrace　of　masonry；　with　a　splendid　flanking　octagon　tower；　its　base　hidden　in　trees；　a　rich　facade　for　a　background；　and　below　the　town　the　river；　and　beyond；the　plain　and　floods　of　golden　sunlight。　　What　shall　we　do？　　Sit　and　dream　in　the　Rent　Tower　under　the　lindens　that　grow　in　its　top？　　The　day　passes　while　one　is　deciding　how　to　spend　it；　and　the　sun　over　Heiligenberg　goes　down　on　his　purpose。




ALPINE　NOTES

ENTERING　SWITZERLAND　BERNE　ITS　BEAUTIES　AND　BEARS

If　you　come　to　Bale；　you　should　take　rooms　on　the　river；　or　stand　on　the　bridge　at　evening；　and　have　a　sunset　of　gold　and　crimson　streaming　down　upon　the　wide　and　strong　Rhine；　where　it　rushes　between　the　houses　built　plumb　up　to　it；　or　you　will　not　care　much　for　the　city。　　And　yet　it　is　pleasant　on　the　high　ground；　where　are　some　stately　buildings；　and　where　new　gardens　are　laid　out；　and　where　the　American　consul　on　the　Fourth　of　July　flies　our　flag　over　the　balcony　of　a　little　cottage　smothered　in　vines　and　gay　with　flowers。　I　had　the　honor　of　saluting　it　that　day；　though　I　did　not　know　at　the　time　that　gold　had　risen　two　or　three　per　cent。　under　its　blessed　folds　at　home。　　Not　being　a　shipwrecked　sailor；　or　a　versatile　and　accomplished　but　impoverished　naturalized　citizen；　desirous　of　quick　transit　to　the　land　of　the　free；　I　did　not　call　upon　the　consul；　but　left　him　under　the　no　doubt　correct　impression　that　he　was　doing　a　good　thing　by　unfolding　the　flag　on　the　Fourth。

You　have　not　journeyed　far　from　Bale　before　you　are　aware　that　you　are　in　Switzerland。　　It　was　showery　the　day　we　went　down；　but　the　ride　filled　us　with　the　most　exciting　expectations。　　The　country　recalled　New　England；　or　what　New　England　might　be；　if　it　were　cultivated　and　adorned；　and　had　good　roads　and　no　fences。　　Here　at　last；　after　the　dusty　German　valleys；　we　entered　among　real　hills；　round　which　and　through　which；　by　enormous　tunnels；　our　train　slowly　went：　rocks　looking　out　of　foliage；　sweet　little　valleys；　green　as　in　early　spring；　the　dark　evergreens　in　contrast；　snug　cottages　nestled　in　the　hillsides；　showing　little　else　than　enormous　brown　roofs　that　come　nearly　to　the　ground；　giving　the　cottages　the　appearance　of　huge　toadstools；　fine　harvests　of　grain；　thrifty　apple…trees；　and　cherry…　trees　purple　with　luscious　fruit。　　And　this　shifting　panorama　continues　until；　towards　evening；　behold；　on　a　hill；　Berne；　shining　through　showers；　the　old　feudal　round　tower　and　buildings　overhanging　the　Aar；　and　the　tower　of　the　cathedral　over　all。　　From　the　balcony　of　our　rooms　at　the　Bellevue；　the　long　range　of　the　Bernese　Oberland　shows　its　white　summits　for　a　moment　in　the　slant　sunshine；　and　then　the　clouds　shut　down；　not　to　lift　aga