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 for straw…cutting; for apple…paring; and generally such a display of implements as would give one a favorable idea of Bavarian agriculture。  There was an interesting exhibition of live fish; great and small; of nearly every sort; I should think; in Bavarian waters。 The show in the fire…department was so antiquated; that I was convinced that the people of Munich never intend to have any fires。

The great day of the fete was Sunday; October 5 for on that day the king went out to the fair…ground; and distributed the prizes to the owners of the best horses; and; as they appeared to me; of the most ugly…colored bulls。  The city was literally crowded with peasants and country people; the churches were full all the morning with devout masses; which poured into the waiting beer…houses afterward with equal zeal。  By twelve o'clock; the city began to empty itself upon the Theresien meadow; and long before the time for the king to arrive two o'clockthere were acres of people waiting for the performance to begin。  The terraced bank; of which I have spoken; was taken possession of early; and held by a solid mass of people; while the fair…ground proper was packed with a swaying concourse; densest near the royal pavilion; which was erected immediately on the race…course; and opposite the bank。

At one o'clock the grand stand opposite to the royal one is taken possession of by a regiment band and by invited guests。  All the space; except the race…course; is; by this time; packed with people; who watch the red and white gate at the head of the course with growing impatience。  It opens to let in a regiment of infantry; which marches in and takes position。  It swings; every now and then; for a solitary horseman; who gallops down the line in all the pride of mounted civic dignity; to the disgust of the crowd; or to let in a carriage; with some overdressed officer or splendid minister; who is entitled to a place in the royal pavilion。  It is a people' fete; and the civic officers enjoy one day of conspicuous glory。  Now a majestic person in gold lace is set down; and now one in a scarlet coat; as beautiful as a flamingo。  These driblets of splendor only feed the popular impatience。  Music is heard in the distance; and a procession with colored banners is seen approaching from the city。 That; like everything else that is to come; stops beyond the closed gate; and there it halts; ready to stream down before our eyes in a variegated pageant。  The time goes on; the crowd gets denser; for there have been steady rivers of people pouring into the grounds for more than an hour。

The military bands play in the long interval; the peasants jabber in unintelligible dialects; the high functionaries on the royal stand are good enough to move around; and let us see how brave and majestic they are。

At last the firing of cannon announces the coming of royalty。  There is a commotion in the vast crowd yonder; the eagerly watched gates swing wide; and a well…mounted company of cavalry dashes down the turf; in uniforms of light blue and gold。  It is a citizens' company of butchers and bakers and candlestick…makers; which would do no discredit to the regular army。  Driving close after is a four…horse carriage with two of the king's ministers; and then; at a rapid pace; six coal…black horses in silver harness; with mounted postilions; drawing a long; slender; open carriage with one seat; in which ride the king and his brother; Prince Otto; come down the way; and are pulled up in front of the pavilion; while the cannon roars; the big bells ring; all the flags of Bavaria; Prussia; and Austria; on innumerable poles; are blowing straight out; the band plays 〃God save the King;〃 the people break into enthusiastic shouting; and the young king; throwing off his cloak; rises and stands in his carriage for a moment; bowing right and left before he descends。  He wears to…day the simple uniform of the citizens' company which has escorted him; and is consequently more plainly and neatly dressed than any one else on the platform;a tall (say six feet); slender; gallant…looking young fellow of three and twenty; with an open face and a graceful manner。

But; when he has arrived; things again come to a stand; and we wait for an hour; and watch the thickening of the clouds; while the king goes from this to that delighted dignitary on the stand and converses。  At the end of this time; there is a movement。  A white dog has got into the course; and runs up and down between the walls of people in terror; headed off by soldiers at either side of the grand stand; and finally; becoming desperate; he makes a dive for the royal pavilion。  The consternation is extreme。  The people cheer the dog and laugh: a white…handed official; in gold lace; and without his hat; rushes out to 〃shoo〃 the dog away; but is unsuccessful; for the animal dashes between his legs; and approaches the royal and carpeted steps。  More men of rank run at him; and he is finally captured and borne away; and we all breathe freer that the danger to royalty is averted。  At one o'clock six youths in white jackets; with clubs and coils of rope; had stationed themselves by the pavilion; but they did not go into action at this juncture; and I thought they rather enjoyed the activity of the great men who kept off the dog。

At length there was another stir; and the king descended from the rear of his pavilion; attended by his ministers; and moved about among the people; who made way for him; and uncovered at his approach。  He spoke with one and another; and strolled about as his fancy took him。  I suppose this is called mingling with the common people。  After he had mingled about fifteen minutes; he returned; and took his place on the steps in front of the pavilion; and the distribution of prizes began。  First the horses were led out; and their owners; approaching the king; received from his hands the diplomas; and a flag from an attendant。  Most of them were peasants; and they exhibited no servility in receiving their marks of distinction; but bowed to the king as they would to any other man; and his majesty touched his cocked hat in return。  Then came the prize…cattle; many of them led by women; who are as interested as their husbands in all farm matters。  Everything goes off smoothly; except there is a momentary panic over a fractious bull; who plunges into the crowd; but the six white jackets are about him in an instant; and entangle him with their ropes。

This over; the gates again open; and the gay cavalcade that has been so long in sight approaches。  First a band of musicians in costumes of the Middle Ages; and then a band of pages in the gayest apparel; bearing pictured banners and flags of all colors; whose silken luster would have been gorgeous in sunshine; these were followed by mounted heralds with trumpets; and after them were led the running horses entered for the race。  The banners go up on the royal stand; and group themselves picturesquely; the heralds disappear at the other end of the list; and almost immediately the horses; ridden by young jockeys in stunning colors; come flying past in a general scramble。 There are a dozen or more horses; but; after the first round; the race lies between two。  The course is considerably over an English mile; and they make four circuits; so that the race is fully six… miles;a very hard one。  It was a run in a rain; however; which began when it did; and soon forced up the umbrellas。  The vast crowd disappeared under a shed of umbrellas; of all colors;black; green; red; blue; and the effect was very singular; especially when it moved from the field: there was then a Niagara of umbrellas。  The race was soon over: it is only a peasants' race; after all; the aristocratic races of the best horses take place in May。  It was over。  The king's carriage was brought round; the people again shouted; the cannon roared; the six black horses reared and plunged; and away he went。

After all; says the artist; 〃the King of Bavaria has not much power。〃

〃You can see;〃 returns a gentleman who speaks English; 〃just how much he has: it is a six…horse power。〃

On other days there was horse…trotting; music production; and for several days prize…shooting。  The latter was admirably conducted: the targets were placed at the foot of the bank; and opposite; I should think not more than two hundred yards off; were shooting…houses; each with a room for the register of the shots; and on each side of him closets where the shooters stand。  Signal…wires run from these houses to the targets; where there are attendants who telegraph the effect of every shot。  Each competitor has a little book; and he shoots at any booth he pleases; or at all; and has his shots registered。  There was a continual fusillade for a couple of days; but what it all came to; I cannot tell。  I can only say; that; if they shoot as steadily as they drink beer; there is no other corps of shooters that can stand before them。




INDIAN SUMMER

We are all quiet along the Isar since the October Fest; since the young king has come back from his summer castle on the Starnberg See to live in his dingy palace; since the opera has got into good working order; and the regular indoor concerts at the cafes have begun。  There is no lack of amu

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