the complete writings-2-第24节
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for straw…cutting； for apple…paring； and generally such a display of implements as would give one a favorable idea of Bavarian agriculture。 There was an interesting exhibition of live fish； great and small； of nearly every sort； I should think； in Bavarian waters。 The show in the fire…department was so antiquated； that I was convinced that the people of Munich never intend to have any fires。
The great day of the fete was Sunday； October 5 for on that day the king went out to the fair…ground； and distributed the prizes to the owners of the best horses； and； as they appeared to me； of the most ugly…colored bulls。 The city was literally crowded with peasants and country people； the churches were full all the morning with devout masses； which poured into the waiting beer…houses afterward with equal zeal。 By twelve o'clock； the city began to empty itself upon the Theresien meadow； and long before the time for the king to arrive two o'clockthere were acres of people waiting for the performance to begin。 The terraced bank； of which I have spoken； was taken possession of early； and held by a solid mass of people； while the fair…ground proper was packed with a swaying concourse； densest near the royal pavilion； which was erected immediately on the race…course； and opposite the bank。
At one o'clock the grand stand opposite to the royal one is taken possession of by a regiment band and by invited guests。 All the space； except the race…course； is； by this time； packed with people； who watch the red and white gate at the head of the course with growing impatience。 It opens to let in a regiment of infantry； which marches in and takes position。 It swings； every now and then； for a solitary horseman； who gallops down the line in all the pride of mounted civic dignity； to the disgust of the crowd； or to let in a carriage； with some overdressed officer or splendid minister； who is entitled to a place in the royal pavilion。 It is a people' fete； and the civic officers enjoy one day of conspicuous glory。 Now a majestic person in gold lace is set down； and now one in a scarlet coat； as beautiful as a flamingo。 These driblets of splendor only feed the popular impatience。 Music is heard in the distance； and a procession with colored banners is seen approaching from the city。 That； like everything else that is to come； stops beyond the closed gate； and there it halts； ready to stream down before our eyes in a variegated pageant。 The time goes on； the crowd gets denser； for there have been steady rivers of people pouring into the grounds for more than an hour。
The military bands play in the long interval； the peasants jabber in unintelligible dialects； the high functionaries on the royal stand are good enough to move around； and let us see how brave and majestic they are。
At last the firing of cannon announces the coming of royalty。 There is a commotion in the vast crowd yonder； the eagerly watched gates swing wide； and a well…mounted company of cavalry dashes down the turf； in uniforms of light blue and gold。 It is a citizens' company of butchers and bakers and candlestick…makers； which would do no discredit to the regular army。 Driving close after is a four…horse carriage with two of the king's ministers； and then； at a rapid pace； six coal…black horses in silver harness； with mounted postilions； drawing a long； slender； open carriage with one seat； in which ride the king and his brother； Prince Otto； come down the way； and are pulled up in front of the pavilion； while the cannon roars； the big bells ring； all the flags of Bavaria； Prussia； and Austria； on innumerable poles； are blowing straight out； the band plays 〃God save the King；〃 the people break into enthusiastic shouting； and the young king； throwing off his cloak； rises and stands in his carriage for a moment； bowing right and left before he descends。 He wears to…day the simple uniform of the citizens' company which has escorted him； and is consequently more plainly and neatly dressed than any one else on the platform；a tall （say six feet）； slender； gallant…looking young fellow of three and twenty； with an open face and a graceful manner。
But； when he has arrived； things again come to a stand； and we wait for an hour； and watch the thickening of the clouds； while the king goes from this to that delighted dignitary on the stand and converses。 At the end of this time； there is a movement。 A white dog has got into the course； and runs up and down between the walls of people in terror； headed off by soldiers at either side of the grand stand； and finally； becoming desperate； he makes a dive for the royal pavilion。 The consternation is extreme。 The people cheer the dog and laugh： a white…handed official； in gold lace； and without his hat； rushes out to 〃shoo〃 the dog away； but is unsuccessful； for the animal dashes between his legs； and approaches the royal and carpeted steps。 More men of rank run at him； and he is finally captured and borne away； and we all breathe freer that the danger to royalty is averted。 At one o'clock six youths in white jackets； with clubs and coils of rope； had stationed themselves by the pavilion； but they did not go into action at this juncture； and I thought they rather enjoyed the activity of the great men who kept off the dog。
At length there was another stir； and the king descended from the rear of his pavilion； attended by his ministers； and moved about among the people； who made way for him； and uncovered at his approach。 He spoke with one and another； and strolled about as his fancy took him。 I suppose this is called mingling with the common people。 After he had mingled about fifteen minutes； he returned； and took his place on the steps in front of the pavilion； and the distribution of prizes began。 First the horses were led out； and their owners； approaching the king； received from his hands the diplomas； and a flag from an attendant。 Most of them were peasants； and they exhibited no servility in receiving their marks of distinction； but bowed to the king as they would to any other man； and his majesty touched his cocked hat in return。 Then came the prize…cattle； many of them led by women； who are as interested as their husbands in all farm matters。 Everything goes off smoothly； except there is a momentary panic over a fractious bull； who plunges into the crowd； but the six white jackets are about him in an instant； and entangle him with their ropes。
This over； the gates again open； and the gay cavalcade that has been so long in sight approaches。 First a band of musicians in costumes of the Middle Ages； and then a band of pages in the gayest apparel； bearing pictured banners and flags of all colors； whose silken luster would have been gorgeous in sunshine； these were followed by mounted heralds with trumpets； and after them were led the running horses entered for the race。 The banners go up on the royal stand； and group themselves picturesquely； the heralds disappear at the other end of the list； and almost immediately the horses； ridden by young jockeys in stunning colors； come flying past in a general scramble。 There are a dozen or more horses； but； after the first round； the race lies between two。 The course is considerably over an English mile； and they make four circuits； so that the race is fully six… miles；a very hard one。 It was a run in a rain； however； which began when it did； and soon forced up the umbrellas。 The vast crowd disappeared under a shed of umbrellas； of all colors；black； green； red； blue； and the effect was very singular； especially when it moved from the field： there was then a Niagara of umbrellas。 The race was soon over： it is only a peasants' race； after all； the aristocratic races of the best horses take place in May。 It was over。 The king's carriage was brought round； the people again shouted； the cannon roared； the six black horses reared and plunged； and away he went。
After all； says the artist； 〃the King of Bavaria has not much power。〃
〃You can see；〃 returns a gentleman who speaks English； 〃just how much he has： it is a six…horse power。〃
On other days there was horse…trotting； music production； and for several days prize…shooting。 The latter was admirably conducted： the targets were placed at the foot of the bank； and opposite； I should think not more than two hundred yards off； were shooting…houses； each with a room for the register of the shots； and on each side of him closets where the shooters stand。 Signal…wires run from these houses to the targets； where there are attendants who telegraph the effect of every shot。 Each competitor has a little book； and he shoots at any booth he pleases； or at all； and has his shots registered。 There was a continual fusillade for a couple of days； but what it all came to； I cannot tell。 I can only say； that； if they shoot as steadily as they drink beer； there is no other corps of shooters that can stand before them。
INDIAN SUMMER
We are all quiet along the Isar since the October Fest； since the young king has come back from his summer castle on the Starnberg See to live in his dingy palace； since the opera has got into good working order； and the regular indoor concerts at the cafes have begun。 There is no lack of amu
