the complete writings-2-第21节

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est　head…gear　of　gold　and　silver　heirlooms；　students　with　little　red　or　green　embroidered　brimless　caps；　with　the　ribbon　across　the　breast；　a　folded　shawl　thrown　over　one　shoulder；　and　the　inevitable　switch…cane；　porters　in　red　caps；　with　a　coil　of　twine　about　the　waist；　young　fellows　from　Bohemia；　with　green　coats；　or　coats　trimmed　with　green；　and　green　felt　hats　with　a　stiff　feather　stuck　in　the　side；　and　soldiers　by　the　hundreds；　of　all　ranks　and　organizations；　common　fellows　in　blue；　staring　in　at　the　shop　windows；　officers　in　resplendent　uniforms；　clanking　their　swords　as　they　swagger　past。　Now　and　then；　an　elegant　equipage　dashes　by；perhaps　the　four　horses　of　the　handsome　young　king；　with　mounted　postilions　and　outriders；　or　a　liveried　carriage　of　somebody　born　with　a　von　before　his　name。　　As　the　twilight　comes　on；　the　shutters　of　the　shop　windows　are　put　up。　It　is　time　to　go　to　the　opera；　for　the　curtain　rises　at　half…past　six；　or　to　the　beer…gardens；　where　delicious　music　marks；　but　does　not　interrupt；　the　flow　of　excellent　beer。

Or　you　may　if　you　choose；　and　I　advise　you　to　do　it；　walk　at　the　same　hour　in　the　English　Garden；　which　is　but　a　step　from　the　arcades　of　the　Hof　Garden；but　a　step　to　the　entrance；　whence　you　may　wander　for　miles　and　miles　in　the　most　enchanting　scenery。　　Art　has　not　been　allowed　here　to　spoil　nature。　　The　trees；　which　are　of　magnificent　size；　are　left　to　grow　naturally；the　Isar；　which　is　turned　into　it；　flows　in　more　than　one　stream　with　its　mountain　impetuosity；　the　lake　is　gracefully　indented　and　overhung　with　trees；　and　presents　ever…　changing　aspects　of　loveliness　as　you　walk　along　its　banks；　there　are　open；　sunny　meadows；　in　which　single　giant　trees　or　splendid　groups　of　them　stand；　and　walks　without　end　winding　under　leafy　Gothic　arches。　　You　know　already　that　Munich　owes　this　fine　park　to　the　foresight　and　liberality　of　an　American　Tory；　Benjamin　Thompson　（Count　Rumford）；　born　in　Rumford；　Vt；　who　also　relieved　Munich　of　beggars。

I　have　spoken　of　the　number　of　soldiers　in　Munich。　　For　six　weeks　the　Landwehr；　or　militia；　has　been　in　camp　in　various　parts　of　Bavaria。　There　was　a　grand　review　of　them　the　other　day　on　the　Field　of　Mars；　by　the　king；　and　many　of　them　have　now　gone　home。　　They　strike　an　unmilitary　man　as　a　very　efficient　body　of　troops。　　So　far　as　I　could　see；　they　were　armed　with　breech…loading　rifles。　　There　is　a　treaty　by　which　Bavaria　agreed　to　assimilate　her　military　organization　to　that　of　Prussia。　　It　is　thus　that　Bismarck　is　continually　getting　ready。　　But　if　the　Landwehr　is　gone；　there　are　yet　remaining　troops　enough　of　the　line。　　Their　chief　use；　so　far　as　it　concerns　me；　is　to　make　pageants　in　the　streets；　and　to　send　their　bands　to　play　at　noon　in　the　public　squares。　　Every　day；　when　the　sun　shines　down　upon　the　mounted　statue　of　Ludwig　I。；　in　front　of　the　Odeon；　a　band　plays　in　an　open　Loggia；　and　there　is　always　a　crowd　of　idlers　in　the　square　to　hear　it。　　Everybody　has　leisure　for　that　sort　of　thing　here　in　Europe；　and　one　can　easily　learn　how　to　be　idle　and　let　the　world　wag。　　They　have　found　out　here　what　is　disbelieved　in　America；that　the　world　will　continue　to　turn　over　once　in　about　twenty…four　hours　（they　are　not　accurate　as　to　the　time）　without　their　aid。　　To　return　to　our　soldiers。　　The　cavalry　most　impresses　me；　the　men　are　so　finely　mounted；　and　they　ride　royally。　　In　these　sparkling　mornings；　when　the　regiments　clatter　past；　with　swelling　music　and　shining　armor；　riding　away　to　I　know　not　what　adventure　and　glory；　I　confess　that　I　long　to　follow　them。　　I　have　long　had　this　desire；　and　the　other　morning；　determining　to　satisfy　it；　I　seized　my　hat　and　went　after　the　prancing　procession。　　I　am　sorry　I　did。　　For；　after　trudging　after　it　through　street　after　street；　the　fine　horsemen　all　rode　through　an　arched　gateway；　and　disappeared　in　barracks；　to　my　great　disgust；　and　the　troopers　dismounted；　and　led　their　steeds　into　stables。

And　yet　one　never　loses　a　walk　here　in　Munich。　　I　found　myself　that　morning　by　the　Isar　Thor；　a　restored　medieval　city　gate。　　The　gate　is　double；　with　flanking　octagonal　towers；　inclosing　a　quadrangle。　　Upon　the　inner　wall　is　a　fresco　of　〃The　Crucifixion。〃　Over　the　outer　front　is　a　representation；　in　fresco　painting；　of　the　triumphal　entry　into　the　city　of　the　Emperor　Louis　of　Bavaria　after　the　battle　of　Ampfing。　On　one　side　of　the　gate　is　a　portrait　of　the　Virgin；　on　gold　ground；　and　on　the　other　a　very　passable　one　of　the　late　Dr。　Hawes　of　Hartford；　with　a　Pope's　hat　on。　　Walking　on；　I　came　to　another　arched　gateway　and　clock…tower；　near　it　an　old　church；　with　a　high　wall　adjoining；　whereon　is　a　fresco　of　cattle　led　to　slaughter；　showing　that　I　am　in　the　vicinity　of　the　Victual　Market；　and　I　enter　it　through　a　narrow；　crooked　alley。　　There　is　nothing　there　but　an　assemblage　of　shabby　booths　and　fruit…stands；　and　an　ancient　stone　tower　in　ruins　and　overgrown　with　ivy。

Leaving　this；　I　came　out　to　the　Marian　Platz；　where　stands　the　column；　with　the　statue　of　the　Virgin　and　Child；　set　up　by　Maximilian　I。　in　1638　to　celebrate　the　victory　in　the　battle　which　established　the　Catholic　supremacy　in　Bavaria。　　It　is　a　favorite　praying…place　for　the　lower　classes。　　Yesterday　was　a　fete　day；　and　the　base　of　the　column　and　half　its　height　are　lost　in　a　mass　of　flowers　and　evergreens。　　In　front　is　erected　an　altar　with　a　broad；　carpeted　platform；　and　a　strip　of　the　platz　before　it　is　inclosed　with　a　railing；　within　which　are　praying…benches。　　The　sun　shines　down　hot；　but　there　are　several　poor　women　kneeling　there；　with　their　baskets　beside　them。　　I　happen　along　there　at　sundown；　and　there　are　a　score　of　women　kneeling　on　the　hard　stones；　outside　the　railing　saying　their　prayers　in　loud　voices。　　The　mass　of　flowers　is　still　sweet　and　gay　and　fresh；　a　fountain　with　fantastic　figures　is　flashing　near　by；　the　crowd；　going　home　to　supper　and　beer；　gives　no　heed　to　the　praying；　the　stolid　droschke…drivers　stand　listlessly　by。　　At　the　head　of　the　square　is　an　artillery　station；　and　a　row　of　cannon　frowns　on　it。　　On　one　side　is　a　house　with　a　tablet　in　the　wall；　recording　the　fact　that　Gustavus　Adolphus　of　Sweden　once　lived　in　it。

When　we　came　to　Munich；　the　great　annual　fair　was　in　progress；　and　the　large　Maximilian　Platz　（not　to　be　confounded　with　the　street　of　that　name）　was　filled　with　booths　of　cheap　merchandise；　puppet…shows；　lottery　shanties；　and　all　sorts　of　popular　amusements。　　It　was　a　fine　time　to　study　peasant　costumes。　　The　city　was　crowded　with　them　on　Sunday；　and　let　us　not　forget　that　the　first　visit　of　the　peasants　was　to　the　churches；　they　invariably　attended　early　mass　before　they　set　out　upon　the　day's　pleasure。　　Most　of　the　churches　have　services　at　all　hours　till　noon；　some　of　them　with　fine　classical　and　military　music。　　One　could　not　but　be　struck　with　the　devotional　manner　of　the　simple　women；　in　their　queer　costumes；　who　walked　into　the　gaudy　edifices；　were　absorbed　in　their　prayers　for　an　hour；　and　then　went　away。　　I　suppose　they　did　not　know　how　odd　they　looked　in　their　high；　round　fur　hats；　or　their　fantastic　old　ornaments；　nor　that　there　was　anything　amiss　in　bringing　their　big　baskets　into　church　with　them。　At　least；　their　simple；　unconscious　manner　was　better　than　that　of　many　of　the　city　people；　some　of　whom　stare　about　a　good　deal；　while　going　through　the　service；　and　stop　in　the　midst　of　crossings　and　genuflections　to　take　snuff　and　pass　it　to　their　neighbors。　　But　there　are　always　present　simple　and　homelike　sort　of　people；　who　neither　follow　the　fashions　nor　look　round　on　them；　respectable；　neat　old　ladies；　in　the　faded　and　carefully　preserved　silk　gowns；　such　as　the　New　England　women　wear　to　〃meeting。〃

No　one　can　help　admiring　the　simplicity；　kindliness；　and　honesty　of　the　Germans。　　The　universal　courtesy　and　friendliness　of　manner　have　a　very　different　seeming　from　the　politeness　of　the　French。　　At　the　hotels　in　the　country；　the　landlord　and　his　wife　and　the　servant　join　in　hoping　you　will　sleep　well　when　you　go　to　bed。　　The　little　maid　at　Heidelberg　who　served　our　meals　always　went　to　the　extent　of　wishing　us　a　good　appetite　when　she　had　brought　in　the　dinner。　　Here　in　Munich　the　people　we　have　occasion　to　address　in　the　street　are　uniformly　courteous。　　The　shop…keepers　are　obliging；　and　rarely　servile；　like　the　English。　　You　are　thanked；　and　punctiliously　wished　the　good…day；　whether　you　purchase　anything　or　not。　　In　shops　tended　by　women；　gentlemen　invariably　remove　their　hats。　　If　you　buy　only　a　kreuzer's　worth　of　fruit　of　an　old　woman；　she　says　words　that　would　be；　literally　translated；　〃I　thank　you　beautifully。〃　　With　all　this；　one　looks　kindly　on　the　childish　love　the　Germans　have　for　titles。　It　is；　I　believe；　difficult　for　the　German　mind　to　comprehend　that　we　can　be　in　good　standing　at　home；　unless　we　have　some　title　prefixed　to　our　names；　or　some　descriptive　phrase　added。　　Our　good　landlord；　who　waits　at　the　table　and　answers　our　bell；　one　of　whose　tenants　is　a　living　baron；　having　no　title　to　put　on　his　doorplate　under　that　of　the　baron；　must　needs　dub　himself　〃privatier；〃　and　he　insists　upon　prefixing　the　name　of　this　unambitious　writer　with　the　ennobling　von；　and　at　the　least　he　insists；　in