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ty　old　carvings；　that　gives　one　at　all　the　sort　of　feeling　that　it　is　supposed　a　church　should　give。　　The　court　chapel　interior　is　boastingly　said　to　resemble　St。　Mark's；　in　Venice。

You　see　how　far　imitation　of　the　classic　and　Italian　is　carried　here　in　Munich；　so；　as　I　said；　the　buildings　need　the　southern　sunlight。　Fortunately；　they　get　the　right　quality　much　of　the　time。　　The　Glyptothek；　a　Grecian　structure　of　one　story；　erected　to　hold　the　treasures　of　classic　sculpture　that　King　Ludwig　collected；　has　a　beautiful　Ionic　porch　and　pediment。　　On　the　outside　are　niches　filled　with　statues。　　In　the　pure　sunshine　and　under　a　deep　blue　sky；　its　white　marble　glows　with　an　almost　ethereal　beauty。　　Opposite　stands　another　successful　imitation　of　the　Grecian　style　of　architecture；a　building　with　a　Corinthian　porch；　also　of　white　marble。　　These；　with　the　Propylaeum；　before　mentioned；　come　out　wonderfully　against　a　blue　sky。　　A　few　squares　distant　is　the　Pinakothek；　with　its　treasures　of　old　pictures；　and　beyond　it　the　New　Pinakothek；　containing　works　of　modern　artists。　　Its　exterior　is　decorated　with　frescoes；　from　designs　by　Kaulbach：　these　certainly　appear　best　in　a　sparkling　light；　though　I　am　bound　to　say　that　no　light　can　make　very　much　of　them。

Yet　Munich　is　not　all　imitation。　　Its　finest　street；　the　Maximilian；　built　by　the　late　king　of　that　name；　is　of　a　novel　and　wholly　modern　style　of　architecture；　not　an　imitation；　though　it　may　remind　some　of　the　new　portions　of　Paris。　　It　runs　for　three　quarters　of　a　mile；　beginning　with　the　postoffice　and　its　colonnades；　with　frescoes　on　one　side；　and　the　Hof　Theater；　with　its　pediment　frescoes；　the　largest　opera…house　in　Germany；　I　believe；　with　stately　buildings　adorned　with　statues；　and　elegant　shops；　down　to　the　swift…flowing　Isar；　which　is　spanned　by　a　handsome　bridge；　or　rather　by　two　bridges；　for　the　Isar　is　partly　turned　from　its　bed　above；　and　made　to　turn　wheels；　and　drive　machinery。　　At　the　lower　end　the　street　expands　into　a　handsome　platz；　with　young　shade　trees；　plats　of　grass；　and　gay　beds　of　flowers。　　I　look　out　on　it　as　I　write；　and　I　see　across　the　Isar　the　college　building　begun　by　Maximilian　for　the　education　of　government　officers；　and　I　see　that　it　is　still　unfinished；　indeed；　a　staring　mass　of　brick；　with　unsightly　scaffolding　and　gaping　windows。　　Money　was　left　to　complete　it；　but　the　young　king；　who　does　not　care　for　architecture；　keeps　only　a　mason　or　two　on　the　brick…work；　and　an　artist　on　the　exterior　frescoes。　　At　this　rate；　the　Cologne　Cathedral　will　be　finished　and　decay　before　this　is　built。　　On　either　side　of　it；　on　the　elevated　bank　of　the　river；　stretch　beautiful　grounds；　with　green　lawns；　fine　trees；　and　well…kept　walks。

Not　to　mention　the　English　Garden；　in　speaking　of　the　outside　aspects　of　the　city；　would　be　a　great　oversight。　　It　was　laid　out　originally　by　the　munificent　American；　Count　Rumford；　and　is　called　English；　I　suppose；　because　it　is　not　in　the　artificial　Continental　style。　Paris　has　nothing　to　compare　with　it　for　natural　beauty；Paris；　which　cannot　let　a　tree　grow；　but　must　clip　it　down　to　suit　French　taste。　　It　is　a　noble　park　four　miles　in　length；　and　perhaps　a　quarter　of　that　in　width；a　park　of　splendid　old　trees；　grand；　sweeping　avenues；　open　glades　of　free…growing　grass；　with　delicious；　shady　walks；　charming　drives　and　rivers　of　water。　　For　the　Isar　is　trained　to　flow　through　it　in　two　rapid　streams；　under　bridges　and　over　rapids；　and　by　willow…hung　banks。　　There　is　not　wanting　even　a　lake；　and　there　is；　I　am　sorry　to　say；　a　temple　on　a　mound；　quite　in　the　classic　style；　from　which　one　can　see　the　sun　set　behind　the　many　spires　of　Munich。　　At　the　Chinese　Tower　two　military　bands　play　every　Saturday　evening　in　the　summer；　and　thither　the　carriages　drive；　and　the　promenaders　assemble　there；　between　five　and　six　o'clock；　and　while　the　bands　play；　the　Germans　drink　beer；　and　smoke　cigars；　and　the　fashionably　attired　young　men　walk　round　and　round　the；　circle；　and　the　smart　young　soldiers　exhibit　their　handsome　uniforms；　and　stride　about　with　clanking　swords。

We　felicitated　ourselves　that　we　should　have　no　lack　of　music　when　we　came　to　Munich。　　I　think　we　have　not；　though　the　opera　has　only　just　begun；　and　it　is　the　vacation　of　the　Conservatoire。　　There　are　first　the　military　bands：　there　is　continually　a　parade　somewhere；　and　the　streets　are　full　of　military　music；　and　finely　executed　too。　　Then　of　beer…gardens　there　is　literally　no　end；　and　there　are　nightly　concerts　in　them。　　There　are　two　brothers　Hunn；　each　with　his　band；　who；　like　the　ancient　Huns；　have　taken　the　city；　and　its　gardens　are　given　over　to　their　unending　waltzes；　polkas；　and　opera　medleys。　Then　there　is　the　church　music　on　Sundays　and　holidays；　which　is　largely　of　a　military　character；　at　least；　has　the　aid　of　drums　and　trumpets；　and　the　whole　band　of　brass。　　For　the　first　few　days　of　our　stay　here　we　had　rooms　near　the　Maximilian　Platz　and　the　Karl's　Thor。　I　think　there　was　some　sort　of　a　yearly　fair　in　progress；　for　the　great　platz　was　filled　with　temporary　booths：　a　circus　had　set　itself　up　there；　and　there　were　innumerable　side…shows　and　lottery…stands；　and　I　believe　that　each　little　shanty　and　puppet…show　had　its　band　or　fraction　of　a　band；　for　there　was　never　heard　such　a　tooting　and　blowing　and　scraping；　such　a　pounding　and　dinning　and　slang…whanging；　since　the　day　of　stopping　work　on　the　Tower　of　Babel。　　The　circus　band　confined　itself　mostly　to　one　tune；　and　as　it　went　all　day　long；　and　late　into　the　night；　we　got　to　know　it　quite　well；　at　least；　the　bass　notes　of　it；　for　the　lighter　tones　came　to　us　indistinctly。　　You　know　that　blurt；　blurt；　thump；　thump；　dissolute　sort　of　caravan　tune。　That　was　it。

The　English　Caf？　was　not　far　off；　and　there　the　Hunns　and　others　also　made　night　melodious。　　The　whole　air　was　one　throb　and　thrump。　　The　only　refuge　from　it　was　to　go　into　one　of　the　gardens；　and　give　yourself　over　to　one　band。　　And　so　it　was　possible　to　have　delightful　music；　and　see　the　honest　Germans　drink　beer；　and　gossip　in　friendly　fellowship　and　with　occasional　hilarity。　　But　music　we　had；　early　and　late。　　We　expected　quiet　in　our　present　quarters。　　The　first　morning；　at　six　o'clock；　we　were　startled　by　the　resonant　notes　of　a　military　band；　that　set　the　echoes　flying　between　the　houses；　and　a　regiment　of　cavalry　went　clanking　down　the　street。　　But　that　is　a　not　unwelcome　morning　serenade　and　reveille。　　Not　so　agreeable　is　the　young　man　next　door；　who　gives　hilarious　concerts　to　his　friends；　and　sings　and　bangs　his　piano　all　day　Sunday；　nor　the　screaming　young　woman　opposite。　　Yet　it　is　something　to　be　in　an　atmosphere　of　music。




THE　MILITARY　LIFE　OF　MUNICH

This　morning　I　was　awakened　early　by　the　strains　of　a　military　band。　It　was　a　clear；　sparkling　morning；　the　air　full　of　life；　and　yet　the　sun　showing　its　warm；　southern　side。　　As　the　mounted　musicians　went　by；　the　square　was　quite　filled　with　the　clang　of　drum　and　trumpet；　which　became　fainter　and　fainter；　and　at　length　was　lost　on　the　ear　beyond　the　Isar；　but　preserved　the　perfection　of　time　and　the　precision　of　execution　for　which　the　military　bands　of　the　city　are　remarkable。　　After　the　band　came　a　brave　array　of　officers　in　bright　uniform；　upon　horses　that　pranced　and　curveted　in　the　sunshine；　and　the　regiment　of　cavalry　followed；　rank　on　rank　of　splendidly　mounted　men；　who　ride　as　if　born　to　the　saddle。　　The　clatter　of　hoofs　on　the　pavement；　the　jangle　of　bit　and　saber；　the　occasional　word　of　command；　the　onward　sweep　of　the　well…trained　cavalcade；　continued　for　a　long　time；　as　if　the　lovely　morning　had　brought　all　the　cavalry　in　the　city　out　of　barracks。　　But　this　is　an　almost　daily　sight　in　Munich。　　One　regiment　after　another　goes　over　the　river　to　the　drill…ground。　　In　the　hot　mornings　I　used　quite　to　pity　the　troopers　who　rode　away　in　the　glare　in　scorching　brazen　helmets　and　breastplates。　　But　only　a　portion　of　the　regiments　dress　in　that　absurd　manner。　　The　most　wear　a　simple　uniform；　and　look　very　soldierly。　　The　horses　are　almost　invariably　fine　animals；　and　I　have　not　seen　such　riders　in　Europe。　　Indeed；　everybody　in　Munich　who　rides　at　all　rides　well。　　Either　most　of　the　horsemen　have　served　in　the　cavalry；　or　horsemanship；　that　noble　art　〃to　witch　the　world；〃　is　in　high　repute　here。

Speaking　of　soldiers；　Munich　is　full　of　them。　　There　are　huge　caserns　in　every　part　of　the　city；　crowded　with　troops。　　This　little　kingdom　of　Bavaria　has　a　hundred　and　twenty　thousand　troops　of　the　line。　Every　man　is　obliged　to　serve　in　the　army　continuously　three　years；　and　every　man　between　the　ages　of　twenty…one　and　forty…five　must　go　with　his　regiment　into　camp　or　barrack　several　weeks　in　each　year；　no　matter　if　the　harvest　rots　in　the　field；　or　the　customers　desert　the　uncared…for　shop。　　The　service　takes　three　of　the　best　years　of　a　young　man's　life。　　Most　of　the　soldiers　in　Munich　are　young　one　meets　hundreds　of　mere　boys　in　the　uniform　of　officers。　　I　think　every　seventh　man　you　meet　is　a　soldier。　　There　must　be　between　fifteen　and　twenty　thousand　troops　quartered　in　the　city　now。　　The　young　officers　are　everywhere；　lounging　in　the　cafes；　smoking　and　sipping　coffee；　on　all　the　public　pr