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itinerary of archibishop-第22节

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es and Ireland; has a lay abbot; for a bad custom has prevailed amongst the clergy; of appointing the most powerful people of a parish stewards; or; rather; patrons; of their churches; who; in process of time; from a desire of gain; have usurped the whole right; appropriating to their own use the possession of all the lands; leaving only to the clergy the altars; with their tenths and oblations; and assigning even these to their sons and relations in the church。  Such defenders; or rather destroyers; of the church; have caused themselves to be called abbots; and presumed to attribute to themselves a title; as well as estates; to which they have no just claim。  In this state we found the church of Lhanpadarn; without a head。  A certain old man; waxen old in iniquity (whose name was Eden Oen; son of Gwaithwoed); being abbot; and his sons officiating at the altar。  But in the reign of king Henry I。; when the authority of the English prevailed in Wales; the monastery of St。 Peter at Gloucester held quiet possession of this church; but after his death; the English being driven out; the monks were expelled from their cloisters; and their places supplied by the same violent intrusion of clergy and laity; which had formerly been practised。  It happened that in the reign of king Stephen; who succeeded Henry I。; a knight; born in Armorican Britain; having travelled through many parts of the world; from a desire of seeing different cities; and the manners of their inhabitants; came by chance to Lhanpadarn。  On a certain feast…day; whilst both the clergy and people were waiting for the arrival of the abbot to celebrate mass; he perceived a body of young men; armed; according to the custom of their country; approaching towards the church; and on enquiring which of them was the abbot; they pointed out to him a man walking foremost; with a long spear in his hand。  Gazing on him with amazement; he asked; 〃If the abbot had not another habit; or a different staff; from that which he now carried before him?〃  On their answering; 〃No!〃 he replied; 〃I have seen indeed and heard this day a wonderful novelty!〃 and from that hour he returned home; and finished his labours and researches。  This wicked people boasts; that a certain bishop {144} of their church (for it formerly was a cathedral) was murdered by their predecessors; and on this account; chiefly; they ground their claims of right and possession。  No public complaint having been made against their conduct; we have thought it more prudent to pass over; for the present; the enormities of this wicked race with dissimulation; than exasperate them by a further relation。



CHAPTER V



Of the river Devi; and the land of the sons of Conan


Approaching to the river Devi; {145} which divides North and South Wales; the bishop of St。 David's; and Rhys the son of Gruffydd; who with a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a prince; had accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi; throughout all Cardiganshire; to this place; returned home。  Having crossed the river in a boat; and quitted the diocese of St。 David's; we entered the land of the sons of Conan; or Merionyth; the first province of Venedotia on that side of the country; and belonging to the bishopric of Bangor。 {146}  We slept that night at Towyn。  Early next morning; Gruffydd son of Conan {147} came to meet us; humbly and devoutly asking pardon for having so long delayed his attention to the archbishop。  On the same day; we ferried over the bifurcate river Maw; {148} where Malgo; son of Rhys; who had attached himself to the archbishop; as a companion to the king's court; discovered a ford near the sea。  That night we lay at Llanvair; {149} that is the church of St。 Mary; in the province of Ardudwy。 {150}  This territory of Conan; and particularly Merionyth; is the rudest and roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are very high and narrow; terminating in sharp peaks; and so irregularly jumbled together; that if the shepherds conversing or disputing with each other from their summits; should agree to meet; they could scarcely effect their purpose in the course of the whole day。  The lances of this country are very long; for as South Wales excels in the use of the bow; so North Wales is distinguished for its skill in the lance; insomuch that an iron coat of mail will not resist the stroke of a lance thrown at a small distance。  The next morning; the youngest son of Conan; named Meredyth; met us at the passage of a bridge; attended by his people; where many persons were signed with the cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of his suite; and one of his intimate friends; and Meredyth; observing that the cloak; on which the cross was to be sewed; appeared of too thin and of too common a texture; with a flood of tears; threw him down his own。



CHAPTER VI



Passage of Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan; and of Nevyn; Carnarvon; and Bangor


We continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr; {151} and Traeth Bachan; {152} that is; the greater and the smaller arm of the sea; where two stone castles have newly been erected; one called Deudraeth; belonging to the sons of Conan; situated in Evionyth; towards the northern mountains; the other named Carn Madryn; the property of the sons of Owen; built on the other side of the river towards the sea; on the head…land Lleyn。 {153}  Traeth; in the Welsh language; signifies a tract of sand flooded by the tides; and left bare when the sea ebbs。  We had before passed over the noted rivers; the Dissenith; {154} between the Maw and Traeth Mawr; and the Arthro; between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan。  We slept that night at Nevyn; on the eve of Palm Sunday; where the archdeacon; after long inquiry and research; is said to have found Merlin Sylvestris。 {155}

Beyond Lleyn; there is a small island inhabited by very religious monks; called Caelibes; or Colidei。  This island; either from the wholesomeness of its climate; owing to its vicinity to Ireland; or rather from some miracle obtained by the merits of the saints; has this wonderful peculiarity; that the oldest people die first; because diseases are uncommon; and scarcely any die except from extreme old age。  Its name is Enlli in the Welsh; and Berdesey {156} in the Saxon language; and very many bodies of saints are said to be buried there; and amongst them that of Daniel; bishop of Bangor。

The archbishop having; by his sermon the next day; induced many persons to take the cross; we proceeded towards Banchor; passing through Caernarvon; {157} that is; the castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon; the province opposite to Mon; because it is so situated with respect to the island of Mona。  Our road leading us to a steep valley; {158} with many broken ascents and descents; we dismounted from our horses; and proceeded on foot; rehearsing; as it were; by agreement; some experiments of our intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem。 Having traversed the valley; and reached the opposite side with considerable fatigue; the archbishop; to rest himself and recover his breath; sat down on an oak which had been torn up by the violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry highly laudable in a person of his approved gravity; thus addressed his attendants:  〃Who amongst you; in this company; can now delight our wearied ears by whistling?〃 which is not easily done by people out of breath。  He affirming that he could; if he thought fit; the sweet notes are heard; in an adjoining wood; of a bird; which some said was a woodpecker; and others; more correctly; an aureolus。  The woodpecker is called in French; spec; and with its strong bill; perforates oak trees; the other bird in called aureolus; from the golden tints of its feathers; and at certain seasons utters a sweet whistling note instead of a song。  Some persons having remarked; that the nightingale was never heard in this country; the archbishop; with a significant smile; replied; 〃The nightingale followed wise counsel; and never came into Wales; but we; unwise counsel; who have penetrated and gone through it。〃  We remained that night at Banchor; {159} the metropolitan see of North Wales; and were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese。 {160}  On the next day; mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high altar; the bishop of that see; at the instance of the archbishop and other persons; more importunate than persuasive; was compelled to take the cross; to the general concern of all his people of both sexes; who expressed their grief on this occasion by loud and lamentable vociferations。



CHAPTER VII



The island of Mona


From hence; we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of Mona; {161} distant from thence about two miles; where Roderic; the younger son of Owen; attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the island; and many others from the adjacent countries; came in a devout manner to meet us。  Confession having been made in a place near the shore; where the surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural theatre; {162} many persons were induced to take the cross; by the persuasive discourses of the archbishop; and Alexander; our interpreter; archdeacon of that place; and of Sisillus; abbot of Stratflur。  Many chosen youths of the family of Rode

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