the mountains(山脉)-第35节
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We decided to go to it straight； and so stepped off on an impossibly steep
slope covered； not with the great boulders and granite blocks； but with a
fine loose shale。 At every stride we stepped ten feet and slid five。 It
was gloriously near to flying。 Leaning far back； our arms spread wide to
keep our balance； spying alertly far ahead as to where we were going to
land； utterly unable to check until we encountered a half…buried ledge of
some sort； and shouting wildly at every plunge； we fairly shot downhill。
The floor of our valley rose to us as the earth to a descending balloon。 In
three quarters of an hour we had reached the first flat。
There we halted to puzzle over the trail of a mountain lion clearly
printed on the soft ground。 What had the great cat been doing away up
there above the hunting country； above cover； above everything that would
appeal to a well…regulated cat of any size whatsoever？ We theorized at
length； but gave it up finally； and went on。 Then a familiar perfume rose
to our nostrils。 We plucked curiously at a bed of catnip and wondered
whether the animal had journeyed so far to enjoy what is always such a
treat to her domestic sisters。
It was nearly dark when we reached camp。 We found Wes
contentedly scraping away at the bearskins。
〃Hello；〃 said he； looking up with a grin。 〃Hello； you dam fools！
I'VE been having a good time。 I've been fishing。〃
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THE MOUNTAINS
XVIII
THE GIANT FOREST
Every one is familiar； at least by reputation and photograph； with the
Big Trees of California。 All have seen pictures of stage…coaches driving
in passageways cut through the bodies of the trunks； of troops of cavalry
ridden on the prostrate trees。 No one but has heard of the dancing…floor
or the dinner… table cut from a single cross…section； and probably few but
have seen some of the fibrous bark of unbelievable thickness。 The
Mariposa； Calaveras； and Santa Cruz groves have become household
names。
The public at large； I imagine； meaning by that you and me and our
neighbors； harbor an idea that the Big Tree occurs only as a remnant； in
scattered little groves carefully fenced and piously visited by the tourist。
What would we have said to the information that in the very heart of the
Sierras there grows a thriving forest of these great trees； that it takes over a
day to ride throughout that forest； and that it comprises probably over five
thousand specimens？
Yet such is the case。 On the ridges and high plateaus north of the
Kaweah River is the forest I describe； and of that forest the trees grow
from fifteen to twenty…six feet in diameter。 Do you know what that
means？ Get up from your chair and pace off the room you are in。 If it
is a very big room； its longest dimension would just about contain one of
the bigger trunks。 Try to imagine a tree like that。
It must be a columnar tree straight and true as the supports of a Greek
facade。 The least deviation from the perpendicular of such a mass would
cause it to fall。 The limbs are sturdy like the arms of Hercules； and grow
out from the main trunk direct instead of dividing and leading that main
trunk to themselves； as is the case with other trees。 The column rises
with a true taper to its full height； then is finished with the conical effect
of the top of a monument。 Strangely enough the frond is exceedingly
fine； and the cones small。
When first you catch sight of a Sequoia； it does not impress you
particularly except as a very fine tree。 Its proportions are so perfect that
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THE MOUNTAINS
its effect is rather to belittle its neighbors than to show in its true
magnitude。 Then； gradually； as your experience takes cognizance of
surroundings；the size of a sugar…pine； of a boulder； of a stream flowing
near； the giant swells and swells before your very vision until he seems
at the last even greater than the mere statistics of his inches had led you to
believe。 And after that first surprise over finding the Sequoia something
not monstrous but beautiful in proportion has given place to the full
realization of what you are beholding； you will always wonder why no one
who has seen has ever given any one who has not seen an adequate idea of
these magnificent old trees。
Perhaps the most insistent note； besides that of mere size and dignity；
is of absolute stillness。 These trees do not sway to the wind； their trunks
are constructed to stand solid。 Their branches do not bend and murmur；
for they too are rigid in fiber。 Their fine thread…like needles may catch
the breeze's whisper； may draw together and apart for the exchange of
confidences as do the leaves of other trees； but if so； you and I are too far
below to distinguish it。 All about； the other forest growths may be
rustling and bowing and singing with the voices of the air； the Sequoia
stands in the hush of an absolute calm。 It is as though he dreamed； too
wrapt in still great thoughts of his youth； when the earth itself was young；
to share the worldlier joys of his neighbor； to be aware of them； even
himself to breathe deeply。 You feel in the presence of these trees as you
would feel in the presence of a kindly and benignant sage； too occupied
with larger things to enter fully into your little affairs； but well disposed in
the wisdom of clear spiritual insight。
This combination of dignity； immobility； and a certain serene
detachment has on me very much the same effect as does a mountain
against the sky。 It is quite unlike the impression made by any other tree；
however large； and is lovable。
We entered the Giant Forest by a trail that climbed。 Always we
entered desirable places by trails that climbed or dropped。 Our access to
paradise was never easy。 About halfway up we met five pack…mules and
two men coming down。 For some reason； unknown； I suspect； even to
the god of chance； our animals behaved themselves and walked straight
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ahead in a beautiful dignity； while those weak…minded mules scattered and
bucked and scraped under trees and dragged back on their halters when
caught。 The two men cast on us malevolent glances as often as they were
able； but spent most of their time swearing and running about。 We
helped them once or twice by heading off； but were too thankfully
engaged in treading lightly over our own phenomenal peace to pay much
attention。 Long after we had gone on； we caught bursts of rumpus
ascending from below。 Shortly we came to a comparatively level country；
and a little meadow； and a rough sign which read
〃Feed 20C a night。〃
Just beyond this extortion was the Giant Forest。
We entered it toward the close of the afternoon； and rode on after our
wonted time looking for feed at less than twenty cents a night。 The great
trunks； fluted like marble columns； blackened against the western sky。
As they grew huger； we seemed to shrink； until we moved fearful as
prehistoric man must have moved among the forces over which he had no
control。 We discovered our feed in a narrow 〃stringer〃 a few miles on。
That night； we； pigmies； slept in the setting before which should have
stridden the colossi of another age。 Perhaps eventually； in spite of its
magnificence and wonder； we were a little glad to leave the Giant Forest。
It held us too rigidly to a spiritual standard of which our normal lives were
incapable； it insisted on a loftiness of soul； a dignity； an aloofness from the
ordinary affairs of life
