voyage of the paper canoe-第29节
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s； shipwrecks； and terrible struggles for life that this lonely coast had witnessed； which sent thrills of horror to my heart。
While traversing the beach during the afternoon； as wreck after wreck； the gravestones of departed ships； projected their timbers from the sands； I had made a calculation of the number of vessels which had left their hulls to rot on Hatteras beach since the ships of Sir Walter Raleigh had anchored above the cape； and it resulted in making one continuous line of vessels； wreck touching wreck； along the coast for many； many miles。 Hundreds of miles of the Atlantic coast beaches would have been walled in by the wrecks could they have come on to the strand at one time； and all the dwellers along the coast； outside of the towns； would have been placed in independent circumstances by wrecking their cargoes。
During this wild night； while the paper canoe was safely stowed in the rushes of the marsh at the cape； and its owner was enjoying the warmth of the young astronomer's fire at the inlet； less than twenty miles from us； on the dangerous edge of Ocracoke shoals； the searching party of the yacht Julia were in momentary expectation of going to the bottom of the sound。 For hours the gallant craft hung to her anchors； which were heavily backed by all the iron ballast that could be attached to the cables。 Wave after wave swept over her； and not a man could put his head above the hatches。 Then； as she rolled in the sea； her cabin…windows went under； and streams of water were forced through the ports into the confined space which was occupied by the little party。 For a time they were in imminent danger； for the vessel dragged anchor to the edge of the shoal； and with a heavy thud the yacht struck on the bottom。 All hopes of ever returning to Newbern were lost； when the changing tide swung the boat off into deeper water； where she rode out the storm in safety。
Before morning the wind shifted； and by nine o'clock I retraced my steps to the cape； and on Tuesday rowed down to Hatteras Inlet； which was reached a little past noon。 Before attempting to cross this dangerous tidal gate…way of the ocean I hugged the shore close to its edge； and paused to make myself familiar with the sandhills of the opposite side； a mile away； which were to serve as the guiding…beacons in the passage。 How often had I； lying awake at night； thought of and dreaded the crossing of this ill…omened inlet！ It had given me much mental suffering。 Now it was before me。 Here on my right was the great sound； on my left the narrow beach island； and out through the portal of the open inlet surged and moaned under a leaden sky that old ocean which now seemed to frown at me； and to say： 〃Wait； my boy； until the inlet's waves deliver you to me； and I will put you among my other victims for your temerity。〃
As I gazed across the current I remarked that it did not seem very rough； though a strong ebb was running out to the sea； and if crossed immediately； before the wind arose； there could be no unreasonable risk。 My canvas deck…cover was carefully pulled close about my waist； and a rigid inspection of oars and row…locks was made； then； with a desire to reserve my strength for any great demand that might be made upon it a little later； I rowed with a steady stroke out into Hatteras Inlet。 There was no help nearer than Styron's； two miles away on the upper shore； while the beach I was approaching on the other side was uninhabited for nearly sixteen miles； to the village at its southern end； near Ocracoke Inlet。 Upon entering the swash I thought of the sharks which the Hatteras fishermen had told me frequently seized their oars； snapping the thin blades in pieces； assuring me； at the same time； that mine would prove very attractive； being so white and glimmering in the water； and offering the same glittering fascination as a silver…spoon bait does to a blue…fish。 These cheerful suggestions caused a peculiar creeping sensation to come over me； but I tried to quiet myself with the belief that the sharks had followed the blue…fish into deeper water； to escape cold weather。
The canoe crossed the upper ebb； and entered an area where the ebb from the opposite side of the inlet struck the first one。 While crossing the union of the two currents； a wind came in at the opening through the beach； and though not a strong one； it created a great agitation of the water。 The dangerous experience at Watchapreague Inlet had taught me that when in such a sea one must pull with all his strength； and that the increased momentum would give greater buoyancy to the shell； for while under this treatment she bounced from one irregular wave to another with a climbing action which greatly relieved my anxiety。 The danger seemed to be decreasing； and I stole a furtive glance over my shoulder at the low dunes of the beach shore which I was approaching； to see how far into the inlet the tide had dragged me。 The white water to leeward warned me of a shoal； and forced me to pull hard for the sound to escape being drawn into the breakers。 This danger was hardly passed； when suddenly the waters around me seethed and foamed； and the short waves parted and closed； as great creatures rose from the deep into the air several feet； and then fell heavily into the sea。 My tiny shell rocked and pitched about wildly as these animals appeared and disappeared； leaping from the waves all around me； diving under the boat and reappearing on the opposite side。 They lashed the current with their strong tails； and snorted or blowed most dismally。 For an instant surprise and alarm took such possession of me that not a muscle of my arms obeyed my will； and the canoe commenced to drift in the driving stream towards the open sea。 This confusion was only momentary； for as soon as I discovered that my companions were porpoises and only old acquaintances； I determined to avoid them as soon as possible。
With a quick glance at my stern range； a sandhill on the shore of the inlet； and another look over my shoulder for the sand dunes of the other side； I exerted every muscle to reach the beach； but my frisky friends were in no mood to leave me； but continued their fun with increased energy as reinforcements came up from all directions。 The faster I rowed the more they multiplied； ploughing the sea in erratic courses。 They were from five to seven feet in length； and must have weighed from two hundred to four hundred pounds each。 Though their attentions were kindly meant； their brusqueness on such an unsteady footing was unpardonable。 I most feared the strong； shooting movements of their tails in the sudden dives under my canoe； for one sportive touch of such a caudality would have rolled me over； and furnished material for a tale the very anticipation of which was unpleasant。
Crossing Hatteras Inlet （112K）
The aquatic gambols of the porpoises lasted but a few minutes after they had called in all their neighbors； and had chased me into three feet depth of water。 They then spouted a nasal farewell； which sounded more catarrhal than guitaral； and left me for the more profitable occupation of fishing in the tide…way of the inlet； while I rowed into a shallow cove； out of the ebb； to rest； and to recover from the effects of my fright。
As I pulled along the beach the tide receded so rapidly that the canoe was constantly grounding； and wading became necessary； for I could not get within several feet of the shore。 When five miles from Hatteras Inlet I espied an empty grass cabin； which the fishermen used in February while catching shad； and； as a southerly wind was now blowing from the sea； and rain was falling； it offered a night's shelter for the traveller。 This Robinson Crusoe looking structure was located upon the low land near the sound； while bleak； sharp…pointed； treeless and grassless sandhills； blown into shape by the winds； arose in the background； and cut off a view of the ocean； which； judging from the low； melancholy moaning coming over the dunes； was in a sad mood。
The canoe was hauled into the bushes and tied securely for fear a deceptive tide might bear it away。 The provisions； blankets； &c。； were moved into the grass hut； which needed repairing。 The holes in the south wall were soon thatched； and a bed easily prepared from the rushes of the marsh。 It mattered not that they were wet； for a piece of painted canvas was spread over them； and the inviting couch finished。
As fresh water can usually be obtained on all these low beaches by digging two or three feet into the sand； I looked for a large clam…shell； and my search being rewarded； I was soon engaged in digging a well near the cabin。
Upon looking up from my work a curious sight met my gaze。 In some mysterious way every sharp…pointed sand…hill had been covered by a black object； which swayed about and nodded up and down in a strange manner。 As I watched the development of this startling phenomenon； the nodding； black objects grew in size until the head； body； and four legs of a horse were clearly cut against the sky。 A little later every crest was surmounted by the comical figure of a marsh…tacky。 Then a few sheep came out of the hollows among the hills and browsed on the coarse gr
