voyage of the paper canoe-第20节
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o the south of its original location。 The tendency of inlets on this coast is to shift to the southward； as do the inlets on the coast of New Jersey。
Oystermen； fishermen； and farmers live along the upland； and in some cases on the island beaches。 From these bays； timber； firewood； grain； and oysters are shipped to northern ports。 The people are everywhere kind and hospitable to strangers。 A mild climate； cheap and easily worked soils； wild…fowl shooting； fine oysters and fishing privileges； offer inducements to Northerners and Europeans to settle in this country； the mild form of ague which exists in most of its localities being the only objection。 While debating this point with a native； he attacked my argument by saying：
〃Law sakes！ don't folks die of something； any way？ If you don't have fever 'n' ague round Massachusetts； you've got an awful lot of things we hain't got here a tarnashun sight wuss ones； too； sich as cumsempsun； brown…critters； mental spinageetis； lung…disease； and all sorts of brownkill disorders。 Besides； you have such awful cold winters that a farmer has to stay holed four months out of the year； while we folks in the south can work most of the time out of doors。 I'll be dog…goned if I hadn't ruther live here in poverty than die up north a…rolling in riches。 Now； stranger； as to what you said about sickness； why we aren't no circumstance to you fellows up north。 Why； your hull country is chuckfull of pizenous remedies。 When I was a…coasting along Yankeedom and went ashore； I found all the rocks along the road were jist kivered with quack…medicine notices； and all the farmers hired out the outsides of their barns to advertise doctor's stuff on。〃
In no portion of America do the people seem to feel the burden of earning a livelihood more lightly。 They get a great deal of social enjoyment out of life at very little cost； and place much less value on the 〃mighty dollar〃 than do their brother farmers of the northern section of the states。 The interesting inquiry of 〃Who was his father？〃 commences at Philadelphia； and its importance intensifies as you travel southward。 Old family associations have great weight among all classes。
It was six miles from the mouth of Love Creek across the little sound to Burton's marshy island at the entrance of Indian River Sound。 Indian River supplies its bay with much of its fresh water； and the small inlet in the beach of the same name with the salt water of the ocean。 Large flocks of geese and ducks were seen upon the quiet waters of the sound。 Pursuing my southward course across Indian River Sound three miles； I entered a small creek with a wide mouth； which flows north from the cedar swamp； known as White's Creek； which I ascended until the stream became so narrow that it seemed almost lost in the wilderness； when suddenly an opening in the forest showed me a clearing with the little buildings of a farm scattered around。 It was the home of a Methodist exhorter； Mr。 Silas J。 Betts。 I told him how anxious I was to make a quick portage to the nearest southern water； Little Assawaman Bay； not much more than three miles distant by road。
After calmly examining my boat； he said： 〃It is now half…past eleven o'clock。 Wife has dinner about ready。 I'll hurry her up a little； and while she is putting it on the table we will get the cart ready。〃 The cart was soon loaded with pine needles as a bed for the canoe。 We lashed her into a firm position with cords； and went in to dinner。
In a short time after； we were rattling over a level； wooded country diversified here and there by a little farm。 The shallow bay； the east side of which was separated from the ocean by sandy hills； was bounded by marshes。 We drove close to the water and put the Maria Theresa once more into her true element。 A friendly shake of the hand as I paid the conscientious man his charge of one dollar for his services； with many thanks for his hospitality； for which he would accept nothing and the canoe was off； threading the narrow and very shallow channel…way of this grassy…bottomed bay。
The tall tower of Fenwick's Island Light； located on the boundary line of Delaware and Maryland； was now my landmark。 It rises out of the low land that forms a barrier against which the sea breaks。 The people on the coast pronounce Fenwick 〃Phoenix。〃 Phoenix Island； they say； was once a part of the mainland； but a woman； wishing to keep her cattle from straying； gave a man a shirt for digging a narrow ditch between Little and Great Assawaman bays。 The tide ebbed and flowed so strongly through this new channel…way that it was worn to more than a hundred feet in width； and has at high tide a depth in places of from ten to fifteen feet of water。 The opening of this new thoroughfare so diminished the flow of water through the Little Assawaman Inlet to the sea； that it became closed。 The water was almost fresh here； as the nearest inlet which admits salt water at high tide is at Chincoteague Island； some fifty miles distant。
Passing to the west of the light…house through this passage； I thought of what a woman could do； and almost expected to hear from the rippling waters the 〃Song of the Shirt；〃 which would have been in this case a much more cheerful one than Hood's。 I now entered Great Assawaman Bay； the waters of which lay like a mirror before me； and nearly five miles away； to the southwestern end； the tall forests of the Isle of Wight loomed up against the setting sun。 Ducks rose in flocks from the quiet waters as my canoe glided into their close vicinity。 If I could have taken less cargo； I should have carried a light gun； but this being impossible； a pocket revolver was my only fire…arm： so the ducks and other wild…fowl along my route had reason to hold the paper canoe in grateful remembrance。
Upon reaching the shores of the Isle of Wight I entered the mouth of St。 Martin's River； which is； at its confluence with Isle of Wight Bay； more than two miles wide。 I did not then possess the fine Coast Chart No。28； or the General Chart of the Coast； No。4； with the topography of the land clearly delineated； and showing every man's farm…buildings； fields； landings； &c。； so plainly located as to make it easy for even a novice to navigate these bays。 Now； being chartless so far as these waters were concerned； I peered about in the deepening twilight for my friend's plantation buildings； which I knew were not far off； but the gloomy forests of pine upon the upland opened not the desired vista I so longed to find。
Crossing the wide river； I came upon a long point of salt…marsh； which I hoped might be Keyser's Point； for I knew that to the west of this point I should find Turval's Creek。 While rowing along the marsh I came upon two duck…shooters in their punt； but so enveloped were they in the mist that it was impossible to do more than define their forms。 I； however； ventured a question as to my locality； when； to my utter astonishment； there came back to me in clear accents my own name。 Never before had it sounded so sweet to my ears。 It was the voice of my friend； who with a companion was occupied in removing from the water the flock of decoys which they had been guarding since sunrise。 Joyful was the unexpected meeting。
We rowed around Keyser's Point； and up Turval's Creek； a couple of miles to the plantation landing。 There； upon the old estate in the little family burial…ground； slept； 〃each in his narrow cell；〃 the children of four generations。 Our conversation before the blazing wood…fire that night related to the ground travelled over during the day； a course of about thirty…five miles。 Mr。 Taylor's father mentioned that a friend； during one week in the previous September； had taken upon his hook； while fishing from the marshes of Rehoboth Bay； five hundred rock…fish； some of which weighed twenty pounds。 The oysters in Rehoboth and Indian River bays had died out； probably from the decrease in the amount of salt water now entering them。 A delightful week was spent with my friends at Winchester Plantation； when the falling of the mercury warned me to hurry southward。
On Wednesday； November 25； I descended the plantation creek and rowed out of St。 Martin's River into the Bay。 My course southward led me past 〃the Hommack；〃 an Indian mound of oyster…shells； which rises about seven feet above the marsh on the west side of the entrance to Sinepuxent bay； and where the mainland approaches to within eight hundred feet of the beach。 This point； which divides the Isle of Wight Bay from Sinepuxent； is the terminus of the Wicomico and Pocomoke Railroad； which has been extended from Berlin eastwardly seven miles。 A short ferry conveys the passengers across the water to a narrow island beach； which is considered by Bayard Taylor； the author； the finest beach he has ever visited。 This new watering…place is called Ocean City； and my friend； B。 Jones Taylor； was treasurer of the company which was engaged in making the much…desired improvements。 The shallow bays in the vicinity of Ocean City offer safe and pleasant sailing…grounds。 The summer fishing consists chiefly of white perch； striped bass； sheep's…head； weak…fish； and drum。 In the fall； bluefish are caught。 All of these；
