the golden chersonese and the way thither-第69节

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colorless　shade。　To　and　fro；　up　and　down；　we　poled　over　the　tragic
waters　till　I　actually　felt　a　terror　far　beyond　eeriness　taking
possession　of　me。

It　grew　grayer　and　darker；　and　we　went　back　for　Captain　Walker；　who；
with　the　absorption　of　a　true　sportsman；　had　hardly　noticed　the　falling
shadows。　It　was　a　relief　to　hear　the　human　voice　once　more。　It　broke
the　worst　spell　I　was　ever　bound　by。　As　he　came　out　on　the　branch　to
get　into　the　canoe　it　gave　way；　and　he　fell　into　the　water　up　to　his
chin。　Then　the　boat　pole　broke；　so　that　when　we　got　back　to　the　padi　it
was　obvious　that　〃the　dark〃　was　coming　〃at　one　stride；〃　and　I　suggested
that；　as　we　had　two　miles　to　walk　and　a　river　to　cross　at　night；　and　we
should　certainly　be　very　late　for　dinner；　Mr。　Low　might　become　uneasy
about　us；　as　we　were　both　strangers　and　unable　to　speak　the　language；
but　Captain　Walker　thought　differently。

There　had　been　so　much　rain　that　it　was　heavy　wading　through　the　padi；
and　it　was　quite　dark　when　we　reached　the　jungle；　in　which　the　rain　had
made　the　footing　very　precarious；　and　in　darkness　we　forded　the　swollen
stream；　and　stumbled　along　the　shore　of　the　Perak；　where　fireflies　in
thousands　were　flashing　among　the　bushesa　beautiful　sight。　When　we
reached　the　bank　of　the　river　where　we　had　left　the　canoe　we　found
several　Malays；　who　laughed　and　seemed　singularly　pleased　to　see　us；
and　talked　vociferously　to　our　men；　i。e。；　vociferously　for　Malays；　who
are　in　the　habit　of　speaking　quietly。　It　was　very　difficult　to　get　down
the　steep；　slippery　bank；　into　a　precarious　canoe　which　I　could　not
see；　and　so　thick　was　the　darkness　that　I　sat　down　in　the　water　between
the　two　gridirons；　and　had　to　remain　there　during　the　crossing；　which
took　a　long　time；　being　against　the　stream。

When　we　landed；　a　Sikh　sergeant　met　us；　very　much　excited。　　He　spoke
Malayan；　and　I　guessed　from　a　few　words　that　I　knew　that　there　was　a
hue　and　cry　at　the　Residency。　You　know　how　all　pleasure　is　at　once
spoiled　when；　after　you　have　been　enjoying　yourself　very　much；　you　find
that　people　at　home　have　been　restless　and　uneasy　about　you；　and　as　it
is　one　of　my　traveling　principles　to　avoid　being　a　bother　to　people；　I
was　very　sorry。　We　found　a　general　state　of　perturbation。　Major
Swinburne；　who　was　leaning　over　the　veranda；　received　us　with　some　very
pungent　objurgations；　and　told　us　that　Mr。　Low　was　out　and　very
anxious。　I　was　covered　with　mire；　and　wet　from　head　to　foot；　and
disappeared；　but　when　we　sat　down　to　the　long…delayed　dinner　I　saw　from
Mr。　Low's　silence　and　gloomy　manner　that　he　had　been　really　much
annoyed；　however；　he　recovered　himself；　and　we　had　a　very　lively
evening　of　conversation　and　discussion；　though　I　had　a　good　deal　of
pain　from　the　inflamed　bites　of　the　bloodsuckers　in　the　swamp。　Malay
scouting　parties　had　been　sent　in　various　directions。　Rajah　Dris　was
away　with　one；　and　the　Sikh　police　were　all　ready　to　do　nobody　knows
what；　as　there　were　no　dogs。　Major　Swinburne　said　that　his　fears　did
not　travel　farther　than　the　river；　which　he　thinks　is　dangerous　to
cross　at　night　in　a　〃dug…out；〃　but　Mr。　Low　had　before　him　the
possibility　of　our　having　been　assailed　by　bad　characters；　or　of　our
having　encountered　a　tiger　in　the　jungle；　and　of　my　having　been　carried
off　from　my　inability　to　climb　a　tree！

Eblis　is　surely　dying。　He　went　to　the　roof；　where　the　half…tamed
siamang　was　supporting　him　hour　after　hour　as　gently　as　a　mother　would
support　a　sick　child。　This　wild　ape　has　been　very　gentle　and　good　to
Eblis　ever　since　he　became　ill。　I　went　out　for　a　short　time　with　Mr。
Low；　and　on　returning　he　called　Eblis；　but　the　little　thing　was　too
weak　to　come；　and　began　to　cry　feebly；　on　which　the　wild　ape　took　him
by　one　of　his　hands；　put　an　arm　round　him；　gently　led　him　to　a　place
from　which　he　could　drop　upon　Mr。　　Low's　chair；　and　then　darted　away；
but　while　daylight　lasted　was　looking　anxiously　at　Eblis；　and　at　6　A。M。
had　so　far　conquered　his　timidity　that　he　sat　on　the　window…sill　behind
Mr。　Low；　that　he　might　watch　his　sick　friend。　The　little　bewitching
thing；　which　is　much　emaciated；　clings　to　its　master　now　the　whole
time；　unlike　other　animals；　which　hide　themselves　when　they　are　ill；
puts　out　its　feeble　little　arms　to　him　with　a　look　of　unspeakable
affection　on　its　poor；　pinched　face；　and　murmurs　in　a　feeble　voice　ouf！
ouf！　Mr。　Low　pours　a　few　drops　of　milk　down　its　throat　every　half　hour；
and　if　he　puts　it　down　for　a　moment；　it　screams　like　a　baby　and
stretches　out　its　thin　hands。

It　is　very　interesting　and　pleasant　to　see　the　relations　which　exist
between　Mr。　Low　and　the　Malays。　At　this　moment　three　Rajahs　are　lying
about　on　the　veranda；　and　their　numerous　followers　are　clustered　on　and
about　the　stairs。　　He　never　raises　his　voice　to　a　native；　and　they　look
as　if　they　like　him；　and　from　their　laughter　and　cheeriness　they　must
be　perfectly　at　ease　with　him。　He　is　altogether　devoted　to　the
interests　of　Perak；　and　fully　carries　out　his　instructions；*　which
were；　〃to　look　upon　Perak　as　a　native　State　ultimately　to　be　governed
by　native　Rajahs；〃　whom　he　is　to　endeavor　to　educate　and　advise
〃without　interfering　with　the　religion　or　custom　of　the　country。〃　He
obviously　attempts　to　train　and　educate　these　men　in　the　principles　and
practice　of　good　government；　so　that　they　shall　be　able　to　rule　firmly
and　justly。　Perak　is　likely　to　become　the　most　important　State　of　the
Peninsula；　and　I　earnestly　hope　that　Mr。　Low's　wise　and　patient　efforts
will　bring　forth　good　fruit；　at　all　events　in　Rajah　Dris。　　
＇*See　Appendix　A。＇

Mr。　Low　is　only　a　little　over　fifty　now；　and　when　he　first　came　the
Rajahs　told　him　that　they　were　〃glad　that　the　Queen　had　sent　them　an
_old_　gentleman！〃　He　is　excessively　cautious；　and；　like　most　people　who
have　had　dealings　with　Orientals；　is　possibly　somewhat　suspicious；　but
his　caution　is　combined　with　singular　kindness　of　heart；　and　an　almost
faulty　generosity　regarding　his　own　concerns；　as；　for　instance；　he
refuses　to　send　his　servants　to　prison　when　they　rob　him；　saying：　〃Poor
fellows！　they　know　no　better。〃　He　is　just　as　patiently　forbearing　to
the　apes。　Mr。　…　told　me　that　he　had　made　a　very　clean　and　careful
copy　of　a　dispatch　to　Lord　Carnarvon；　when　Mahmoud　dipped　his　fingers
in　the　ink　and　drew　them　over　a　whole　page；　and　he　only　took　him　in　his
arms　and　said：　〃Poor　creature；　you've　given　me　a　great　deal　of　trouble；
but　you　know　no　better。〃

This　is　my　last　evening　here；　and　I　am　so　sorry。　It　is　truly　〃the
wilds。〃　There　is　rest。　Then　the　apes　are　delightful　companions；　and
there　are　all　sorts　of　beasts；　and　birds；　and　creeping　things；　from
elephants　downward。　　The　scenery　and　vegetation　of　the　neighborhood　are
beautiful；　the　quiet　Malay　life　which　passes　before　one　in　a　series　of
pictures　is　very　interesting；　and　the　sight　of　wise　and　righteous　rule
carried　on　before　one's　eyes；　with　a　total　absence　of　humbug　and
red…tapeism；　and　which　never　leaves　out　of　sight　the　training　of　the
Malays　to　rule　themselves；　is　always　pleasing。　I　like　Kwala　Kangsa
better　than　any　place　that　I　have　been　at　in　Asia；　and　am
proportionately　sorrier　to　leave　it。　Mr。　Low　would　have　sent　me　up　the
Perak　in　the　Dragon　boat；　and　over　the　mountains　into　Kinta　on
elephants；　if　I　could　have　stayed；　but　I　cannot　live　longer　without
your　letters；　and　they；　alas！　are　at　Colombo。　Mr。　Low　kindly　expresses
regret　at　my　going；　and　says　he　has　got　quite　used　to　my　being　here；
and　added：　〃You　never　speak　at　the　wrong　time。　When　men　are　visiting　me
they　never　know　when　to　be　quiet；　but　bother　one　in　the　middle　of
business。〃　This　is　most　amusing；　for　it　would　be　usually　said：　〃Women
never　know　when　to　be　quiet。〃　Mr。　Maxwell　one　day　said；　that　when　men
were　with　him　he　could　〃get　nothing　done　for　their　clatter。〃　I　wished
to　start　at　4　A。M。　to…morrow；　to　get　the　coolness　before　sunrise；　but
there　are　so　many　tigers　about　just　now　in　the　jungle　through　which　the
road　passes；　that　it　is　not　considered　prudent　for　me　to　leave　before
six；　when　they　will　have　retired　to　their　lairs。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XXII

A　Pleasant　CanterA　Morning　HymnThe　Pass　of　Bukit　BerapitThe
〃Wearing　World〃　Again！A　Bad　SpiritMalay　Demonology〃Running
Amuck〃An　Amok…Runner's　CareerThe　Supposed　Origin　of　AmokJungle
Openings　in　PerakDebt…SlaveryThe　Fate　of　Three　Runaway
SlavesMoslem　Prayers〃Living　Like　Leeches〃Malay　ProverbsA
〃Ten…Thousand…Man　Umbrella〃


BRITISH　RESIDENCY；　TAIPENG；　February　21。

I　am　once　again　on　this　breezy　hill；　watching　the　purple　cloud…shadows
sail　over　the　level　expanse　of　tree…tops　and　mangroves；　having
accomplished　in　about　four　hours　the　journey；　which　took　nearly　twelve
in　going　up。　The　sun　was　not　up　when　I　left　the　bungalow　at　Kwala
Kangsa　this　morning。　I　rode　a　capital　pony；　on　Mr。　Low's　English
saddle；　a　Malay　orderly　on　horseback　escorting　me；　and　the　royal
elephant　carried　my　luggage。　It　was　absurd　to　see　this　huge　beast　lie
down　merely　to　receive　my　little　valise　and　canvas　roll；　with　a　small
accumulation　of　Malacca　canes；　mats；　krises；　tigers'　teeth　and　claws；
and　an　elephant's　tusk；　the　whole　not　weighing　100　lbs。

Mr。　Low　was　already　at　his　work；