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the golden chersonese and the way thither-及3准


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are the elephant察the one´horned rhinoceros察the Malayan tapir察and the
wild hog察the last held in abomination by the Malays察but constituting
the chief animal food of some of the wild tribes。

A small bear with a wistful face represents the Plantigrade family。 The
Quadrumana are very numerous。 There are nine monkeys察one察if not two
apes察and a lemur or sloth察which screens its eyes from the light。

Of the Digitigrada there are the otter or water´dog察the musang and
climbing musang察the civet cat察the royal tiger察the spotted black
tiger察in whose glossy raven´black coat the characteristic markings are
seen in certain lights察the tiger cat察the leopard察the Java cat察and
four or five others。 Many of these feline animals abound。

Among the ruminants are four species of deer察two smaller than a hare
and one as large as an elk察a wild goat similar to the Sumatran
antelope察the domestic goat察a mean little beast察the buffalo察a great
nearly hairless察gray or pink beast察bigger than the buffalo of China
and India察a short´legged domestic ox察and two wild oxen or bisons
which are rare。

The bat family is not numerous。 The vampire flies high察in great
flocks察and is very destructive to fruit。 This frugiverous bat察known
popularly as the ;flying fox察─is a very interesting´looking animal
and is actually eaten by the people of Ternate。 At the height of the
fruit season察thousands of these creatures cross from Sumatra to the
mainland察a distance never less than forty miles。 Their strength of
wing is enormous。 I saw one captured in the steamer Nevada察forty´five
miles from the Navigators察with wings measuring察when extended察nearly
five feet across。  These are formed of a jet black membrane察and have a
highly polished claw at the extremity of each。 The feet consist of five
polished black claws察with which the bat hangs on察head downward察to
the forest trees。 His body is about twice the size of that of a very
large rat察black and furry underneath察and with red foxy fur on the
head and neck。 He has a pointed face察a very black nose察and prominent
black eyes察with a remorseless expression in them。 An edible bat of
vagrant habits is also found。

Ponies are imported from Sumatra察and a few horses from Australia察but
the latter do not thrive。

The domestic cat always looks as if half his tail had been taken off in
a trap。 The domestic dog is the Asiatic察not the European dog察a leggy
ugly察vagrant察uncared´for fellow察furnishing a useful simile and
little more。

Weasels察squirrels察polecats察porcupines察and other small animals exist
in numbers察and the mermaid察of the genus Halicore察connects the
inhabitants of the land and water。  This Duyong察described as a
creature seven or eight feet long察with a head like that of an elephant
deprived of its proboscis察and the body and tail of a fish察frequents
the Sumatran and Malayan shores察and its flesh is held in great
estimation at the tables of sultans and rajahs。 Besides these and the
list is long enough there are many small beasts。

The reptiles are unhappily very numerous。 Crawfurd mentions forty
species of snakes察including the python and the cobra。 Alligators in
great numbers infest the tidal waters of the rivers。 Iguanas and
lizards of several species察marsh´frogs察and green tree´frogs abound。
The land´leeches are a great pest。 Scorpions and centipedes are
abundant。  There are many varieties of ants察among them a formidable´
looking black creature nearly two inches long察a large red ant察whose
bite is like a bad pinch from forceps察and which is the chief source of
formic acid察and the termes察or white ant察most destructive to timber。

The carpenter beetle is also found察an industrious insect察which
riddles the timber of any building in which he effects a lodgment察and
is as destructive as dry rot。 There are bees and wasps察and hornets of
large size察and a much´dreaded insect察possibly not yet classified
said to be peculiar to the Peninsula察which inflicts so severe a wound
as to make a strong man utter a cry of agony。 But of all the pests the
mosquitoes are the worst。 A resident may spend some time in the country
and know nothing from experience of scorpions察centipedes
land´leeches察and soldier ants察but he cannot escape from the mosquito
the curse of these well´watered tropic regions。 In addition to the
night mosquito察there is a striped variety of large size察known as the
;tiger mosquito察─much to be feared察for it pursues its bloodthirsty
work in the daytime。

Among the harmless insects may be mentioned the cicada察which fills the
forest with its cheery din察the green grasshopper察spiders察and flies
of several species察dragon´flies of large size and brilliant coloring
and butterflies and moths of surpassing beauty察which delight in the
hot察moist察jungle openings察and even surpass the flowers in the glory
and variety of their hues。 Among them the atlas moth is found
measuring from eight to ten inches across its wings。 The leaf insects
are also fascinating察and the fire´flies in a mangrove swamp on a
dark察still night察moving in gentle undulations察or flashing into
coruscations after brief intervals of quiescence察are inconceivably
beautiful。

The birds of the Peninsula are many and beautiful。 Sun´birds rival the
flashing colors of the humming´birds in the jungle openings
king´fishers of large size and brilliant blue plumage make the river
banks gay察shrieking paroquets with coral´colored beaks and tender
green feathers察abound in the forests察great察heavy´billed hornbills
hop cumbrously from branch to branch察rivaling in their awkward gait
the rhinoceros hornbills察the Javanese peacock察with its gorgeous tail
and neck covered with iridescent green feathers instead of blue ones
moves majestically along the jungle tracks察together with the ocellated
pheasant察the handsome and high´couraged jungle cock察and the glorious
Argus pheasant察a bird of twilight and night察with ;a hundred eyes; on
each feather of its stately tail。

According to Mr。 Newbold察two birds of paradise Paradisea regia and
Paradisea gularis are natives of the Peninsula* and among other
bright´winged creatures are the glorious crimson´feathered pergam察the
penciled pheasant察the peacock pheasant察the blue pheasant partridge
the mina察and the dial bird察with an endless variety of parrots
lories察green´feathered pigeons of various sizes察and wood´peckers。
Besides these there are falcons察owls察or ;spectre birds察─sweet´voiced
butcher birds察storks察fly´catchers察and doves察and the swallow which
builds the gelatinous edible nest察which is the foundation of the
expensive luxury ;Bird's Nest Soup察─frequents the verdant islands on
the coast。  
*Mr。 Newbold is ordinarily so careful and accurate that it is almost
presumptuous to hint that in this particular case he may not have been
able to verify the statements of the natives by actual observation。

Nor are our own water birds wanting。 There are bitterns察rails
wild´duck察teal察snipes察the common察gray察and whistling plover察green
black察and red quails察and the sport on the plains and reedy marshes
and along the banks of rivers察is most excellent。

Turtles abound off the coast察and tortoises察one variety with a hard
shell察and the other with a soft one and a rapid movement察are found in
swampy places。 The river fish are neither abundant nor much esteemed
but the sea furnishes much of the food of both Malays and Chinese察and
the dried and salted fish prepared on the coast is considered very
good。

At European tables in the settlements the red mullet察a highly prized
fish察the pomfret察considered more delicious than the turbot察and the
tungeree察with cray´fish察crabs察prawns察and shrimps察are usually seen。
The tongue´fish察something like a sole察the gray mullet察the
hammer´headed shark察and various fish察with vivid scarlet and yellow
stripes alternating with black察are eaten察along with cockles察 razor
shells察─and king´crabs。 The lover of fishy beauty is abundantly
gratified by the multitudes of fish of brilliant colors察together with
large medusae察which dart or glide through the sunlit waters among the
coral´groves察where every coral spray is gemmed with zoophytes察whose
rainbow´tinted arms sway with the undulations of the water察and where
sea´snakes writhe themselves away into the recesses of coral caves。

Nature is so imposing察so magnificent察and so prolific on the Malay
Peninsula察that one naturally gives man the secondary place which I
have assigned to him in this chapter。 The whole population of the
Golden Chersonese察a region as large as Great Britain察is not more than
three´quarters of a million察and less than a half of this is Malay。
Neither great wars察nor an ancient history察nor a valuable literature
nor stately ruins察nor barbaric splendors察attract scholars or
sight´seers to the Peninsula。

The Malays are not the Aborigines of this singular spit of land察and
they are its colonists rather than its conquerors。 Their histories
which are chiefly traditional察state that the extremity of the
Peninsula was peopled by a Malay emigration from Sumatra about the
middle of the twelfth century察and that the de

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