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mouths; like a sort of poor old Cows。  In some of these wards; it

was good to see a few green plants; in others; an isolated

Refractory acting as nurse; who did well enough in that capacity;

when separated from her compeers; every one of these wards; day

room; night room; or both combined; was scrupulously clean and

fresh。  I have seen as many such places as most travellers in my

line; and I never saw one such; better kept。



Among the bedridden there was great patience; great reliance on the

books under the pillow; great faith in GOD。  All cared for

sympathy; but none much cared to be encouraged with hope of

recovery; on the whole; I should say; it was considered rather a

distinction to have a complication of disorders; and to be in a

worse way than the rest。  From some of the windows; the river could

be seen with all its life and movement; the day was bright; but I

came upon no one who was looking out。



In one large ward; sitting by the fire in arm…chairs of

distinction; like the President and Vice of the good company; were

two old women; upwards of ninety years of age。  The younger of the

two; just turned ninety; was deaf; but not very; and could easily

be made to hear。  In her early time she had nursed a child; who was

now another old woman; more infirm than herself; inhabiting the

very same chamber。  She perfectly understood this when the matron

told it; and; with sundry nods and motions of her forefinger;

pointed out the woman in question。  The elder of this pair; ninety…

three; seated before an illustrated newspaper (but not reading it);

was a bright…eyed old soul; really not deaf; wonderfully preserved;

and amazingly conversational。  She had not long lost her husband;

and had been in that place little more than a year。  At Boston; in

the State of Massachusetts; this poor creature would have been

individually addressed; would have been tended in her own room; and

would have had her life gently assimilated to a comfortable life

out of doors。  Would that be much to do in England for a woman who

has kept herself out of a workhouse more than ninety rough long

years?  When Britain first; at Heaven's command; arose; with a

great deal of allegorical confusion; from out the azure main; did

her guardian angels positively forbid it in the Charter which has

been so much besung?



The object of my journey was accomplished when the nimble matron

had no more to show me。  As I shook hands with her at the gate; I

told her that I thought justice had not used her very well; and

that the wise men of the East were not infallible。



Now; I reasoned with myself; as I made my journey home again;

concerning those Foul wards。  They ought not to exist; no person of

common decency and humanity can see them and doubt it。  But what is

this Union to do?  The necessary alteration would cost several

thousands of pounds; it has already to support three workhouses;

its inhabitants work hard for their bare lives; and are already

rated for the relief of the Poor to the utmost extent of reasonable

endurance。  One poor parish in this very Union is rated to the

amount of FIVE AND SIXPENCE in the pound; at the very same time

when the rich parish of Saint George's; Hanover…square; is rated at

about SEVENPENCE in the pound; Paddington at about FOURPENCE; Saint

James's; Westminster; at about TENPENCE!  It is only through the

equalisation of Poor Rates that what is left undone in this wise;

can be done。  Much more is left undone; or is ill…done; than I have

space to suggest in these notes of a single uncommercial journey;

but; the wise men of the East; before they can reasonably hold

forth about it; must look to the North and South and West; let them

also; any morning before taking the seat of Solomon; look into the

shops and dwellings all around the Temple; and first ask themselves

'how much more can these poor people … many of whom keep themselves

with difficulty enough out of the workhouse … bear?'



I had yet other matter for reflection as I journeyed home; inasmuch

as; before I altogether departed from the neighbourhood of Mr。

Baker's trap; I had knocked at the gate of the workhouse of St。

George's…in…the…East; and had found it to be an establishment

highly creditable to those parts; and thoroughly well administered

by a most intelligent master。  I remarked in it; an instance of the

collateral harm that obstinate vanity and folly can do。  'This was

the Hall where those old paupers; male and female; whom I had just

seen; met for the Church service; was it?' … 'Yes。' … 'Did they

sing the Psalms to any instrument?' … 'They would like to; very

much; they would have an extraordinary interest in doing so。' …

'And could none be got?' … 'Well; a piano could even have been got

for nothing; but these unfortunate dissensions … '  Ah! better; far

better; my Christian friend in the beautiful garment; to have let

the singing boys alone; and left the multitude to sing for

themselves!  You should know better than I; but I think I have read

that they did so; once upon a time; and that 'when they had sung an

hymn;' Some one (not in a beautiful garment) went up into the Mount

of Olives。



It made my heart ache to think of this miserable trifling; in the

streets of a city where every stone seemed to call to me; as I

walked along; 'Turn this way; man; and see what waits to be done!'

So I decoyed myself into another train of thought to ease my heart。

But; I don't know that I did it; for I was so full of paupers; that

it was; after all; only a change to a single pauper; who took

possession of my remembrance instead of a thousand。



'I beg your pardon; sir;' he had said; in a confidential manner; on

another occasion; taking me aside; 'but I have seen better days。'



'I am very sorry to hear it。'



'Sir; I have a complaint to make against the master。'



'I have no power here; I assure you。  And if I had … '



'But; allow me; sir; to mention it; as between yourself and a man

who has seen better days; sir。  The master and myself are both

masons; sir; and I make him the sign continually; but; because I am

in this unfortunate position; sir; he won't give me the counter…

sign!'







CHAPTER IV … TWO VIEWS OF A CHEAP THEATRE







As I shut the door of my lodging behind me; and came out into the

streets at six on a drizzling Saturday evening in the last past

month of January; all that neighbourhood of Covent…garden looked

very desolate。  It is so essentially a neighbourhood which has seen

better days; that bad weather affects it sooner than another place

which has not come down in the World。  In its present reduced

condition it bears a thaw almost worse than any place I know。  It

gets so dreadfully low…spirited when damp breaks forth。  Those

wonderful houses about Drury…lane Theatre; which in the palmy days

of theatres were prosperous and long…settled places of business;

and which now change hands every week; but never change their

character of being divided and sub…divided on the ground floor into

mouldy dens of shops where an orange and half…a…dozen nuts; or a

pomatum…pot; one cake of fancy soap; and a cigar box; are offered

for sale and never sold; were most ruefully contemplated that

evening; by the statue of Shakespeare; with the rain…drops coursing

one another down its innocent nose。  Those inscrutable pigeon…hole

offices; with nothing in them (not so much as an inkstand) but a

model of a theatre before the curtain; where; in the Italian Opera

season; tickets at reduced prices are kept on sale by nomadic

gentlemen in smeary hats too tall for them; whom one occasionally

seems to have seen on race…courses; not wholly unconnected with

strips of cloth of various colours and a rolling ball … those

Bedouin establishments; deserted by the tribe; and tenantless;

except when sheltering in one corner an irregular row of ginger…

beer bottles; which would have made one shudder on such a night;

but for its being plain that they had nothing in them; shrunk from

the shrill cries of the news…boys at their Exchange in the kennel

of Catherine…street; like guilty things upon a fearful summons。  At

the pipe…shop in Great Russell…street; the Death's…head pipes were

like theatrical memento mori; admonishing beholders of the decline

of the playhouse as an Institution。  I walked up Bow…street;

disposed to be angry with the shops there; that were letting out

theatrical secrets by exhibiting to work…a…day humanity the stuff

of which diadems and robes of kings are made。  I noticed that some

shops which had once been in the dramatic line; and had struggled

out of it; were not getting on prosperously … like some actors I

have known; who took to business and failed to make it answer。  In

a word; those streets looked so dull; and; considered as theatrical

streets; so broken and bankrupt; that the FOUND DEAD on the black

board at the police station might have announced the deceas

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