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calmer。  By degrees he became so; and tranquilly walked back with

me to the hotel。  There; I sat down before I went to bed and wrote

a faithful account of him to the Englishman:  which I concluded by

saying that I would bring the wine home; against any difficulties;

every drop。



Early next morning; when I came out at the hotel door to pursue my

journey; I found my friend waiting with one of those immense

bottles in which the Italian peasants store their wine … a bottle

holding some half…dozen gallons … bound round with basket…work for

greater safety on the journey。  I see him now; in the bright

sunshine; tears of gratitude in his eyes; proudly inviting my

attention to this corpulent bottle。  (At the street…comer hard by;

two high…flavoured; able…bodied monks … pretending to talk

together; but keeping their four evil eyes upon us。)



How the bottle had been got there; did not appear; but the

difficulty of getting it into the ramshackle vetturino carriage in

which I was departing; was so great; and it took up so much room

when it was got in; that I elected to sit outside。  The last I saw

of Giovanni Carlavero was his running through the town by the side

of the jingling wheels; clasping my hand as I stretched it down

from the box; charging me with a thousand last loving and dutiful

messages to his dear patron; and finally looking in at the bottle

as it reposed inside; with an admiration of its honourable way of

travelling that was beyond measure delightful。



And now; what disquiet of mind this dearly…beloved and highly…

treasured Bottle began to cost me; no man knows。  It was my

precious charge through a long tour; and; for hundreds of miles; I

never had it off my mind by day or by night。  Over bad roads … and

they were many … I clung to it with affectionate desperation。  Up

mountains; I looked in at it and saw it helplessly tilting over on

its back; with terror。  At innumerable inn doors when the weather

was bad; I was obliged to be put into my vehicle before the Bottle

could be got in; and was obliged to have the Bottle lifted out

before human aid could come near me。  The Imp of the same name;

except that his associations were all evil and these associations

were all good; would have been a less troublesome travelling

companion。  I might have served Mr。 Cruikshank as a subject for a

new illustration of the miseries of the Bottle。  The National

Temperance Society might have made a powerful Tract of me。



The suspicions that attached to this innocent Bottle; greatly

aggravated my difficulties。  It was like the apple…pie in the

child's book。  Parma pouted at it; Modena mocked it; Tuscany

tackled it; Naples nibbled it; Rome refused it; Austria accused it;

Soldiers suspected it; Jesuits jobbed it。  I composed a neat

Oration; developing my inoffensive intentions in connexion with

this Bottle; and delivered it in an infinity of guard…houses; at a

multitude of town gates; and on every drawbridge; angle; and

rampart; of a complete system of fortifications。  Fifty times a

day; I got down to harangue an infuriated soldiery about the

Bottle。  Through the filthy degradation of the abject and vile

Roman States; I had as much difficulty in working my way with the

Bottle; as if it had bottled up a complete system of heretical

theology。  In the Neapolitan country; where everybody was a spy; a

soldier; a priest; or a lazzarone; the shameless beggars of all

four denominations incessantly pounced on the Bottle and made it a

pretext for extorting money from me。  Quires … quires do I say?

Reams … of forms illegibly printed on whity…brown paper were filled

up about the Bottle; and it was the subject of more stamping and

sanding than I had ever seen before。  In consequence of which haze

of sand; perhaps; it was always irregular; and always latent with

dismal penalties of going back or not going forward; which were

only to be abated by the silver crossing of a base hand; poked

shirtless out of a ragged uniform sleeve。  Under all

discouragements; however; I stuck to my Bottle; and held firm to my

resolution that every drop of its contents should reach the

Bottle's destination。



The latter refinement cost me a separate heap of troubles on its

own separate account。  What corkscrews did I see the military power

bring out against that Bottle; what gimlets; spikes; divining rods;

gauges; and unknown tests and instruments!  At some places; they

persisted in declaring that the wine must not be passed; without

being opened and tasted; I; pleading to the contrary; used then to

argue the question seated on the Bottle lest they should open it in

spite of me。  In the southern parts of Italy more violent

shrieking; face…making; and gesticulating; greater vehemence of

speech and countenance and action; went on about that Bottle than

would attend fifty murders in a northern latitude。  It raised

important functionaries out of their beds; in the dead of night。  I

have known half…a…dozen military lanterns to disperse themselves at

all points of a great sleeping Piazza; each lantern summoning some

official creature to get up; put on his cocked…hat instantly; and

come and stop the Bottle。  It was characteristic that while this

innocent Bottle had such immense difficulty in getting from little

town to town; Signor Mazzini and the fiery cross were traversing

Italy from end to end。



Still; I stuck to my Bottle; like any fine old English gentleman

all of the olden time。  The more the Bottle was interfered with;

the stauncher I became (if possible) in my first determination that

my countryman should have it delivered to him intact; as the man

whom he had so nobly restored to life and liberty had delivered it

to me。  If ever I had been obstinate in my days … and I may have

been; say; once or twice … I was obstinate about the Bottle。  But;

I made it a rule always to keep a pocket full of small coin at its

service; and never to be out of temper in its cause。  Thus; I and

the Bottle made our way。  Once we had a break…down; rather a bad

break…down; on a steep high place with the sea below us; on a

tempestuous evening when it blew great guns。  We were driving four

wild horses abreast; Southern fashion; and there was some little

difficulty in stopping them。  I was outside; and not thrown off;

but no words can describe my feelings when I saw the Bottle …

travelling inside; as usual … burst the door open; and roll obesely

out into the road。  A blessed Bottle with a charmed existence; he

took no hurt; and we repaired damage; and went on triumphant。



A thousand representations were made to me that the Bottle must be

left at this place; or that; and called for again。  I never yielded

to one of them; and never parted from the Bottle; on any pretence;

consideration; threat; or entreaty。  I had no faith in any official

receipt for the Bottle; and nothing would induce me to accept one。

These unmanageable politics at last brought me and the Bottle;

still triumphant; to Genoa。  There; I took a tender and reluctant

leave of him for a few weeks; and consigned him to a trusty English

captain; to be conveyed to the Port of London by sea。



While the Bottle was on his voyage to England; I read the Shipping

Intelligence as anxiously as if I had been an underwriter。  There

was some stormy weather after I myself had got to England by way of

Switzerland and France; and my mind greatly misgave me that the

Bottle might be wrecked。  At last to my great joy; I received

notice of his safe arrival; and immediately went down to Saint

Katharine's Docks; and found him in a state of honourable captivity

in the Custom House。



The wine was mere vinegar when I set it down before the generous

Englishman … probably it had been something like vinegar when I

took it up from Giovanni Carlavero … but not a drop of it was

spilled or gone。  And the Englishman told me; with much emotion in

his face and voice; that he had never tasted wine that seemed to

him so sweet and sound。  And long afterwards; the Bottle graced his

table。  And the last time I saw him in this world that misses him;

he took me aside in a crowd; to say; with his amiable smile:  'We

were talking of you only to…day at dinner; and I wished you had

been there; for I had some Claret up in Carlavero's Bottle。'







CHAPTER XVIII … THE CALAIS NIGHT MAIL







It is an unsettled question with me whether I shall leave Calais

something handsome in my will; or whether I shall leave it my

malediction。  I hate it so much; and yet I am always so very glad

to see it; that I am in a state of constant indecision on this

subject。  When I first made acquaintance with Calais; it was as a

maundering young wretch in a clammy perspiration and dripping

saline particles; who was conscious of no extremities but the one

great extremity; sea…sickness … who was a mere bilious torso; with

a mislaid headache somewhere in its stomach … who had been put in

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