little travels and roadside sketches-第2节
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regard to the ducks； I saw the animals gobbled up before my eyes by
an old widow lady and her party just as I was shrieking to the
steward to bring a knife and fork to carve them。 The fellow！ （I
mean the widow lady's whiskered companion）I saw him eat pease
with the very knife with which he had dissected the duck！
After dinner （as I need not tell the keen observer of human nature
who peruses this） the human mind； if the body be in a decent state；
expands into gayety and benevolence； and the intellect longs to
measure itself in friendly converse with the divers intelligences
around it。 We ascend upon deck； and after eying each other for a
brief space and with a friendly modest hesitation； we begin anon to
converse about the weather and other profound and delightful themes
of English discourse。 We confide to each other our respective
opinions of the ladies round about us。 Look at that charming
creature in a pink bonnet and a dress of the pattern of a
Kilmarnock snuff…box： a stalwart Irish gentleman in a green coat
and bushy red whiskers is whispering something very agreeable into
her ear； as is the wont of gentlemen of his nation； for her dark
eyes kindle； her red lips open and give an opportunity to a dozen
beautiful pearly teeth to display themselves； and glance brightly
in the sun； while round the teeth and the lips a number of lovely
dimples make their appearance； and her whole countenance assumes a
look of perfect health and happiness。 See her companion in shot
silk and a dove…colored parasol； in what a graceful Watteau…like
attitude she reclines。 The tall courier who has been bouncing
about the deck in attendance upon these ladies （it is his first day
of service； and he is eager to make a favorable impression on them
and the lady's…maids too） has just brought them from the carriage a
small paper of sweet cakes （nothing is prettier than to see a
pretty woman eating sweet biscuits） and a bottle that evidently
contains Malmsey madeira。 How daintily they sip it； how happy they
seem； how that lucky rogue of an Irishman prattles away！ Yonder is
a noble group indeed： an English gentleman and his family。
Children； mother； grandmother； grown…up daughters； father； and
domestics； twenty…two in all。 They have a table to themselves on
the deck； and the consumption of eatables among them is really
endless。 The nurses have been bustling to and fro； and bringing；
first； slices of cake； then dinner； then tea with huge family jugs
of milk； and the little people have been playing hide…and…seek
round the deck； coquetting with the other children； and making
friends of every soul on board。 I love to see the kind eyes of
women fondly watching them as they gambol about； a female face； be
it ever so plain； when occupied in regarding children； becomes
celestial almost； and a man can hardly fail to be good and happy
while he is looking on at such sights。 〃Ah； sir！〃 says a great big
man； whom you would not accuse of sentiment； 〃I have a couple of
those little things at home；〃 and he stops and heaves a great big
sigh and swallows down a half…tumbler of cold something and water。
We know what the honest fellow means well enough。 He is saying to
himself； 〃God bless my girls and their mother！〃 but； being a
Briton； is too manly to speak out in a more intelligible way。
Perhaps it is as well for him to be quiet； and not chatter and
gesticulate like those Frenchmen a few yards from him； who are
chirping over a bottle of champagne。
There is； as you may fancy； a number of such groups on the deck；
and a pleasant occupation it is for a lonely man to watch them and
build theories upon them； and examine those two personages seated
cheek by jowl。 One is an English youth； travelling for the first
time； who has been hard at his Guidebook during the whole journey。
He has a 〃Manuel du Voyageur〃 in his pocket： a very pretty； amusing
little oblong work it is too； and might be very useful； if the
foreign people in three languages； among whom you travel； would but
give the answers set down in the book； or understand the questions
you put to them out of it。 The other honest gentleman in the fur
cap； what can his occupation be？ We know him at once for what he
is。 〃Sir；〃 says he； in a fine German accent； 〃I am a brofessor of
languages； and will gif you lessons in Danish； Swedish； English；
Bortuguese； Spanish and Bersian。〃 Thus occupied in meditations；
the rapid hours and the rapid steamer pass quickly on。 The sun is
sinking； and； as he drops； the ingenious luminary sets the Thames
on fire： several worthy gentlemen； watch in hand； are eagerly
examining the phenomena attending his disappearance；rich clouds
of purple and gold； that form the curtains of his bed；little
barks that pass black across his disc； his disc every instant
dropping nearer and nearer into the water。 〃There he goes！〃 says
one sagacious observer。 〃No； he doesn't；〃 cries another。 Now he
is gone； and the steward is already threading the deck； asking the
passengers； right and left； if they will take a little supper。
What a grand object is a sunset； and what a wonder is an appetite
at sea！ Lo！ the horned moon shines pale over Margate； and the red
beacon is gleaming from distant Ramsgate pier。
。 。 。 。 。 。
A great rush is speedily made for the mattresses that lie in the
boat at the ship's side； and as the night is delightfully calm；
many fair ladies and worthy men determine to couch on deck for the
night。 The proceedings of the former； especially if they be young
and pretty； the philosopher watches with indescribable emotion and
interest。 What a number of pretty coquetries do the ladies
perform； and into what pretty attitudes do they take care to fall！
All the little children have been gathered up by the nursery…maids；
and are taken down to roost below。 Balmy sleep seals the eyes of
many tired wayfarers； as you see in the case of the Russian
nobleman asleep among the portmanteaus； and Titmarsh； who has been
walking the deck for some time with a great mattress on his
shoulders； knowing full well that were he to relinquish it for an
instant； some other person would seize on it； now stretches his bed
upon the deck； wraps his cloak about his knees； draws his white
cotton nightcap tight over his head and ears； and； as the smoke of
his cigar rises calmly upwards to the deep sky and the cheerful
twinkling stars； he feels himself exquisitely happy； and thinks of
thee； my Juliana！
。 。 。 。 。 。
Why people； because they are in a steamboat； should get up so
deucedly early I cannot understand。 Gentlemen have been walking
over my legs ever since three o'clock this morning； and； no doubt；
have been indulging in personalities （which I hate） regarding my
appearance and manner of sleeping； lying； snoring。 Let the wags
laugh on； but a far pleasanter occupation is to sleep until
breakfast…time； or near it。
The tea； and ham and eggs； which； with a beefsteak or two； and
three or four rounds of toast； form the component parts of the
above…named elegant meal； are taken in the River Scheldt。 Little
neat； plump…looking churches and villages are rising here and there
among tufts of trees and pastures that are wonderfully green。 To
the right； as the 〃Guide…book〃 says； is Walcheren； and on the left
Cadsand； memorable for the English expedition of 1809； when Lord
Chatham； Sir Walter Manny； and Henry Earl of Derby； at the head of
the English； gained a great victory over the Flemish mercenaries in
the pay of Philippe of Valois。 The cloth…yard shafts of the
English archers did great execution。 Flushing was taken； and Lord
Chatham returned to England； where he distinguished himself greatly
in the debates on the American war； which he called the brightest
jewel of the British crown。 You see； my love； that； though an
artist by profession； my education has by no means been neglected；
and what； indeed； would be the pleasure of travel； unless these
charming historical recollections were brought to bear upon it？
ANTWERP。
As many hundreds of thousands of English visit this city （I have
met at least a hundred of them in this half…hour walking the
streets； 〃Guide…book〃 in hand）； and as the ubiquitous Murray has
already depicted the place； there is no need to enter into a long
description of it； its neatness； its beauty； and its stiff antique
splendor。 The tall pale houses have many of them crimped gables；
that look like Queen Elizabeth's ruffs。 There are as many people
in the streets as in London at three o'clock in the morning； the
market…women wear bonnets of a flower…pot shape； and have shining
brazen milk…pots； which are delightful to the eyes of a painter。
Along the quays of the lazy Scheldt are innumerable good…natured
groups of beer…drinkers （small…beer is the most good…natured drink
in the world）
