wild wales-第91节

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


the　waters　discharged　by　the　Rhyadr。　　The　south…west　side　of　the　
vale　is　steep；　and　from　a　cleft　of　a　hill　in　that　quarter　a　slender　
stream　rushing　impetuously　joins　the　brook　of　the　Rhyadr；　like　the　
rill　of　the　northern　glen。　　The　principal　object　of　the　whole　is　of　
course　the　Rhyadr。　　What　shall　I　liken　it　to？　　I　scarcely　know；　
unless　to　an　immense　skein　of　silk　agitated　and　disturbed　by　
tempestuous　blasts；　or　to　the　long　tail　of　a　grey　courser　at　
furious　speed。　　Through　the　profusion　of　long　silvery　threads　or　
hairs；　or　what　looked　such；　I　could　here　and　there　see　the　black　
sides　of　the　crag　down　which　the　Rhyadr　precipitated　itself　with　
something　between　a　boom　and　a　roar。

After　sitting　on　the　verge　of　the　hollow　for　a　considerable　time　I　
got　up；　and　directed　my　course　towards　the　house　in　front　of　the　
grove。　　I　turned　down　the　path　which　brought　me　to　the　brook　which　
runs　from　the　northern　glen　into　the　waters　discharged　by　the　
Rhyadr；　and　crossing　it　by　stepping…stones；　found　myself　on　the　
lowest　spur　of　the　hog…backed　hill。　　A　steep　path　led　towards　the　
house。　　As　I　drew　near　two　handsome　dogs　came　rushing　to　welcome　
the　stranger。　　Coming　to　a　door　on　the　northern　side　of　the　house　I　
tapped；　and　a　handsome　girl　of　about　thirteen　making　her　
appearance；　I　inquired　in　English　the　nearest　way　the　waterfall；　
she　smiled；　and　in　her　native　language　said　that　she　had　no　Saxon。　　
On　my　telling　her　in　Welsh　that　I　was　come　to　see　the　Pistyll　she　
smiled　again；　and　said　that　I　was　welcome；　then　taking　me　round　the　
house；　she　pointed　to　a　path　and　bade　me　follow　it。　　I　followed　the　
path　which　led　downward　to　a　tiny　bridge　of　planks；　a　little　way　
below　the　fall。　　I　advanced　to　the　middle　of　the　bridge；　then　
turning　to　the　west；　looked　at　the　wonderful　object　before　me。

There　are　many　remarkable　cataracts　in　Britain　and　the　neighbouring　
isles；　even　the　little　Celtic　Isle　of　Man　has　its　remarkable　
waterfall；　but　this　Rhyadr；　the　grand　cataract　of　North　Wales；　far　
exceeds　them　all　in　altitude　and　beauty；　though　it　is　inferior　to　
several　of　them　in　the　volume　of　its　flood。　　I　never　saw　water　
falling　so　gracefully；　so　much　like　thin　beautiful　threads；　as　
here。　　Yet　even　this　cataract　has　its　blemish。　　What　beautiful　
object　has　not　something　which　more　or　less　mars　its　loveliness？　　
There　is　an　ugly　black　bridge　or　semi…circle　of　rock；　about　two　
feet　in　diameter　and　about　twenty　feet　high；　which　rises　some　
little　way　below　it；　and　under　which　the　water；　after　reaching　the　
bottom；　passes；　which　intercepts　the　sight；　and　prevents　it　from　
taking　in　the　whole　fall　at　once。　　This　unsightly　object　has　stood　
where　it　now　stands　since　the　day　of　creation；　and　will　probably　
remain　there　to　the　day　of　judgment。　　It　would　be　a　desecration　of　
nature　to　remove　it　by　art；　but　no　one　could　regret　if　nature　in　
one　of　her　floods　were　to　sweep　it　away。

As　I　was　standing　on　the　planks　a　woman　plainly　but　neatly　dressed　
came　from　the　house。　　She　addressed　me　in　very　imperfect　English；　
saying　that　she　was　the　mistress　of　the　house　and　should　be　happy　
to　show　me　about。　　I　thanked　her　for　her　offer；　and　told　her　that　
she　might　speak　Welsh；　whereupon　she　looked　glad；　and　said　in　that　
tongue　that　she　could　speak　Welsh　much　better　than　Saesneg。　　She　
took　me　by　a　winding　path　up　a　steep　bank　on　the　southern　side　of　
the　fall　to　a　small　plateau；　and　told　me　that　was　the　best　place　to　
see　the　Pistyll　from。　　I　did　not　think　so；　for　we　were　now　so　near　
that　we　were　almost　blinded　by　the　spray；　though；　it　is　true；　the　
semicircle　of　rock　no　longer　impeded　the　sight；　this　object　we　now　
saw　nearly　laterally　rising　up　like　a　spectral　arch；　spray　and　foam　
above　it；　and　water　rushing　below。　　〃That　is　a　bridge　rather　for　
ysprydoedd　（9）　to　pass　over　than　men；〃　said　I。

〃It　is；〃　said　the　woman；　〃but　I　once　saw　a　man　pass　over　it。〃

〃How　did　he　get　up？〃　said　I。　　〃The　sides　are　quite　steep　and　
slippery。〃

〃He　wriggled　to　the　sides　like　a　llysowen；　（10）　till　he　got　to　the　
top；　when　he　stood　upright　for　a　minute；　and　then　slid　down　on　the　
other　side。〃

〃Was　he　any　one　from　these　parts？〃　said　I。

〃He　was　not。　　He　was　a　dyn　dieithr；　a　Russian；　one　of　those　with　
whom　we　are　now　at　war。〃

〃Was　there　as　much　water　tumbling　then　as　now？〃

〃More；　for　there　had　fallen　more　rain。〃

〃I　suppose　the　torrent　is　sometimes　very　dreadful？〃　said　I。

〃It　is　indeed；　especially　in　winter；　for　it　is　then　like　a　sea；　and　
roars　like　thunder　or　a　mad　bull。〃

After　I　had　seen　all　I　wished　of　the　cataract；　the　woman　asked　me　
to　come　to　the　house　and　take　some　refreshment。　　I　followed　her　to　
a　neat　little　room　where　she　made　me　sit　down　and　handed　me　a　bowl　
of　butter…milk。　　On　the　table　was　a　book　in　which　she　told　me　it　
was　customary　for　individuals　who　visited　the　cataract　to　insert　
their　names。　　I　took　up　the　book　which　contained　a　number　of　names　
mingled　here　and　there　with　pieces　of　poetry。　　Amongst　these　
compositions　was　a　Welsh　englyn　on　the　Rhyadr；　which；　though　
incorrect　in　its　prosody；　I　thought　stirring　and　grand。　　I　copied　
it；　and　subjoin　it　with　a　translation　which　I　made　on　the　spot。


〃Crychiawg；　ewynawg　anian　…　yw　y　Rhyadr
Yn　rhuo　mal　taran；
Colofn　o　dwr；　gloyw…dwr　glan；
Gorwyllt；　un　lliw　ag　arian。〃

Foaming　and　frothing　from　mountainous　height；
Roaring　like　thunder　the　Rhyadr　falls；
Though　its　silvery　splendour　the　eye　may　delight；
Its　fury　the　heart　of　the　bravest　appals。



CHAPTER　LXXI



Wild　Moors　…　The　Guide　…　Scientific　Discourse　…　The　Land　of　Arthur　
…　The　Umbrella　…　Arrival　at　Bala。


WHEN　I　had　rested　myself　and　finished　the　buttermilk；　I　got　up；　and　
making　the　good　woman　a　small　compensation　for　her　civility；　
inquired　if　I　could　get　to　Bala　without　returning　to　Llan　Rhyadr。

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　she；　〃if　you　cross　the　hills　for　about　five　miles　
you　will　find　yourself　upon　a　road　which　will　take　you　straight　to　
Bala。〃

〃Is　there　anyone　here；〃　said　I；　〃who　will　guide　me　over　the　hills；　
provided　I　pay　him　for　his　trouble？〃

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　she；　〃I　know　one　who　will　be　happy　to　guide　you　
whether　you　pay　him　or　not。〃

She　went　out　and　presently　returned　with　a　man　about　thirty…five；　
stout　and　well…looking；　and　dressed　in　a　waggoner's　frock。

〃There；〃　said　she；　〃this　is　the　man　to　show　you　over　the　hills；　few　
know　the　paths　better。〃

I　thanked　her；　and　telling　the　man　I　was　ready；　bade　him　lead　the　
way。　　We　set　out；　the　two　dogs　of　which　I　have　spoken　attending　us；　
and　seemingly　very　glad　to　go。　　We　ascended　the　side　of　the　hog…
backed　hill　to　the　north　of　the　Rhyadr。　　We　were　about　twenty　
minutes　in　getting　to　the　top；　close　to　which　stood　a　stone　or　
piece　of　rock；　very　much　resembling　a　church　altar；　and　about　the　
size　of　one。　　We　were　now　on　an　extensive　moory　elevation；　having　
the　brook　which　forms　the　Rhyadr　a　little　way　on　our　left。　　We　went　
nearly　due　west；　following　no　path；　for　path　there　was　none；　but　
keeping　near　the　brook。　　Sometimes　we　crossed　water…courses　which　
emptied　their　tribute　into　the　brook；　and　every　now　and　then　
ascended　and　descended　hillocks　covered　with　gorse　and　whin。　　After　
a　little　time　I　entered　into　conversation　with　my　guide。　　He　had　
not　a　word　of　English。

〃Are　you　married？〃　said　I。

〃In　truth　I　am；　sir。〃

〃What　family　have　you？〃

〃I　have　a　daughter。〃

〃Where　do　you　live？〃

〃At　the　house　of　the　Rhyadr。〃

〃I　suppose　you　live　there　as　servant？〃

〃No；　sir；　I　live　there　as　master。〃

〃Is　the　good　woman　I　saw　there　your　wife？〃

〃In　truth；　sir；　she　is。〃

〃And　the　young　girl　I　saw　your　daughter？〃

〃Yes；　sir；　she　is　my　daughter。〃

〃And　how　came　the　good　woman　not　to　tell　me　you　were　her　husband？〃

〃I　suppose；　sir；　you　did　not　ask　who　I　was；　and　she　thought　you　did　
not　care　to　know。〃

〃But　can　you　be　spared　from　home？〃

〃Oh　yes；　sir；　I　was　not　wanted　at　home。〃

〃What　business　are　you？〃

〃I　am　a　farmer；　sir。〃

〃A　sheep　farmer？〃

〃Yes；　sir。〃

〃Who　is　your　landlord。〃

〃Sir　Watkin。〃

〃Well；　it　was　very　kind　of　you　to　come　with　me。〃

〃Not　at　all；　sir；　I　was　glad　to　come　with　you；　for　we　are　very　
lonesome　at　Rhyadr；　except　during　a　few　weeks　in　the　summer；　when　
the　gentry　come　to　see　the　Pistyll。　　Moreover；　I　have　sheep　lying　
about　here　which　need　to　be　looked　at　now　and　then；　and　by　coming　
hither　with　you　I　shall　have　an　opportunity　of　seeing　them。〃

We　frequently　passed　sheep　feeding　together　in　small　numbers。　　In　
two　or　three　instances　my　guide　singled　out　individuals；　caught　
them；　and　placing　their　heads　between　his　knees　examined　the　
insides　of　their　eyelids；　in　order　to　learn　by　their　colour　whether　
or　not　they　were　infected　with　the　pwd　or　moor　disorder。　　We　had　
some　discourse　about　that　malady。　　At　last　he　asked　me　if　there　was　
a　remedy　for　it。

〃Oh　yes；〃　said　I；　〃a　decoction　of　hoarhound。〃

〃What　is　hoarhound？〃　said　he。

〃Llwyd　y　Cwn；〃　said　I。　　〃Pour　some　of　that　down　the　sheep's　throat　
twice　a　day；　by　means　of　a　horn；　and　the　sheep　will　recover；　for　
the　bitterness；　do　you　see；　will　destroy　the　worm　（11）　in　the　
liver；　which　learned　men　say　is　the　cause　of　the　dis