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第87节

wild wales-第87节

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loud shouts of laughter; which roused the echoes of the 
neighbouring hills。

〃Genuine descendants; no doubt;〃 said I to myself as I walked 
briskly on; 〃of certain of the old heathen Saxons who followed Rag 
into Wales and settled down about the house which he built。  
Really; if these two are a fair specimen of the Wrexham population; 
my friend the Scotch policeman was not much out when he said that 
the people of Wrexham were the worst people in Wales。〃



CHAPTER LXVI



Sycharth … The Kindly Welcome … Happy Couple … Sycharth … Recalling 
the Dead … Ode to Sycharth。


I WAS now at the northern extremity of the valley near a great 
house past which the road led in the direction of the north…east。  
Seeing a man employed in breaking stones I inquired the way to 
Sychnant。

〃You must turn to the left;〃 said he; 〃before you come to yon great 
house; follow the path which you will find behind it; and you will 
soon be in Sychnant。〃

〃And to whom does the great house belong?〃

〃To whom? why; to Sir Watkin。〃

〃Does he reside there?〃

〃Not often。  He has plenty of other houses; but he sometimes comes 
there to hunt。〃

〃What is the place's name?〃

〃Llan Gedwin。〃

I turned to the left; as the labourer had directed me。  The path 
led upward behind the great house round a hill thickly planted with 
trees。  Following it I at length found myself on a broad road on 
the top extending east and west; and having on the north and south 
beautiful wooded hills。  I followed the road which presently began 
to descend。  On reaching level ground I overtook a man in a 
waggoner's frock; of whom I inquired the way to Sycharth。  He 
pointed westward down the vale to what appeared to be a collection 
of houses; near a singular…looking monticle; and said; 〃That is 
Sycharth。〃

We walked together till we came to a road which branched off on the 
right to a little bridge。

〃That is your way;〃 said he; and pointing to a large building 
beyond the bridge; towering up above a number of cottages; he said; 
〃that is the factory of Sycharth;〃 he then left me; following the 
high road; whilst I proceeded towards the bridge; which I crossed; 
and coming to the cottages entered one on the right hand of a 
remarkably neat appearance。

In a comfortable kitchen by a hearth on which blazed a cheerful 
billet sat a man and woman。  Both arose when I entered:  the man 
was tall; about fifty years of age; and athletically built; he was 
dressed in a white coat; corduroy breeches; shoes; and grey worsted 
stockings。  The woman seemed many years older than the man; she was 
tall also; and strongly built; and dressed in the ancient female 
costume; namely; a kind of round; half Spanish hat; long blue 
woollen kirtle or gown; a crimson petticoat; and white apron; and 
broad; stout shoes with buckles。

〃Welcome; stranger;〃 said the man; after looking me a moment or two 
full in the face。

〃Croesaw; dyn dieithr … welcome; foreign man;〃 said the woman; 
surveying me with a look of great curiosity。

〃Won't you sit down?〃 said the man; handing me a chair。

I sat down; and the man and woman resumed their seats。

〃I suppose you come on business connected with the factory?〃 said 
the man。

〃No;〃 said I; 〃my business is connected with Owen Glendower。〃

〃With Owen Glendower?〃 said the man; staring。

〃Yes;〃 said I; 〃I came to see his place。〃

〃You will not see much of his house now;〃 said the man … 〃it is 
down; only a few bricks remain。〃

〃But I shall see the place where his house stood;〃 said I; 〃which 
is all I expected to see。〃

〃Yes; you can see that。〃

〃What does the dyn dieithr say?〃 said the woman in Welsh with an 
inquiring look。

〃That he is come to see the place of Owen Glendower。〃

〃Ah!〃 said the woman with a smile。

〃Is that good lady your wife?〃 said I。

〃She is。〃

〃She looks much older than yourself。〃

〃And no wonder。  She is twenty…one years older。〃

〃How old are you?〃

〃Fifty…three。〃

〃Dear me;〃 said I; 〃what a difference in your ages。  How came you 
to marry?〃

〃She was a widow and I had lost my wife。  We were lone in the 
world; so we thought we would marry。〃

〃Do you live happily together?〃

〃Very。〃

〃Then you did quite right to marry。  What is your name?〃

〃David Robert。〃

〃And that of your wife?〃

〃Gwen Robert。〃

〃Does she speak English?〃

〃She speaks some; but not much。〃

〃Is the place where Owen lived far from here?〃

〃It is not。  It is the round hill a little way above the factory。〃

〃Is the path to it easy to find?〃

〃I will go with you;〃 said the man。  〃I work at the factory; but I 
need not go there for an hour at least。〃

He put on his hat and bidding me follow him went out。  He led me 
over a gush of water which passing under the factory turns the 
wheel; thence over a field or two towards a house at the foot of 
the mountain where he said the steward of Sir Watkin lived; of whom 
it would be as well to apply for permission to ascend the hill; as 
it was Sir Watkin's ground。  The steward was not at home; his wife 
was; however; and she; when we told her we wished to go to the top 
of Owain Glendower's Hill; gave us permission with a smile。  We 
thanked her and proceeded to mount the hill or monticle once the 
residence of the great Welsh chieftain; whom his own deeds and the 
pen of Shakespear have rendered immortal。

Owen Glendower's hill or mount at Sycharth; unlike the one bearing 
his name on the banks of the Dee; is not an artificial hill; but 
the work of nature; save and except that to a certain extent it has 
been modified by the hand of man。  It is somewhat conical and 
consists of two steps or gradations; where two fosses scooped out 
of the hill go round it; one above the other; the lower one 
embracing considerably the most space。  Both these fosses are about 
six feet deep; and at one time doubtless were bricked; as stout 
large; red bricks are yet to be seen; here and there; in their 
sides。  The top of the mount is just twenty…five feet across。  When 
I visited it it was covered with grass; but had once been subjected 
to the plough as various furrows indicated。  The monticle stands 
not far from the western extremity of the valley; nearly midway 
between two hills which confront each other north and south; the 
one to the south being the hill which I had descended; and the 
other a beautiful wooded height which is called in the parlance of 
the country Llwyn Sycharth or the grove of Sycharth; from which 
comes the little gush of water which I had crossed; and which now 
turns the wheel of the factory and once turned that of Owen 
Glendower's mill; and filled his two moats; part of the water by 
some mechanical means having been forced up the eminence。  On the 
top of this hill or monticle in a timber house dwelt the great 
Welshman Owen Glendower; with his wife; a comely; kindly woman; and 
his progeny; consisting of stout boys and blooming girls; and 
there; though wonderfully cramped for want of room; he feasted 
bards who requited his hospitality with alliterative odes very 
difficult to compose; and which at the present day only a few book…
worms understand。  There he dwelt for many years; the virtual if 
not the nominal king of North Wales; occasionally no doubt looking 
down with self…complaisance from the top of his fastness on the 
parks and fish…ponds of which he had several; his mill; his pigeon 
tower; his ploughed lands; and the cottages of a thousand 
retainers; huddled round the lower part of the hill; or strewn 
about the valley; and there he might have lived and died had not 
events caused him to draw the sword and engage in a war; at the 
termination of which Sycharth was a fire…scathed ruin; and himself 
a broken…hearted old man in anchorite's weeds; living in a cave on 
the estate of Sir John Scudamore; the great Herefordshire 
proprietor; who married his daughter Elen; his only surviving 
child。

After I had been a considerable time on the hill looking about me 
and asking questions of my guide; I took out a piece of silver and 
offered it to him; thanking him at the same time for the trouble he 
had taken in showing me the place。  He refused it; saying that I 
was quite welcome。

I tried to force it upon him。

〃I will not take it;〃 said he; 〃but if you come to my house and 
have a cup of coffee; you may give sixpence to my old woman。〃

〃I will come;〃 said I; 〃in a short time。  In the meanwhile do you 
go; I wish to be alone。〃

〃What do you want to do?〃

〃To sit down and endeavour to recall Glendower; and the times that 
are past。〃

The fine fellow looked puzzled; at last he said; 〃Very well;〃 
shrugged his shoulders; and descended the hill。

When he was gone I sat down on the brow of the hill; and with my 
face turned to the east began slowly to chant a translation made by 
myself in the days of my boyhood of an ode to Sycharth composed by 
Iolo Goch when upwards of a hundred years old; shortly after his 
arrival at that place; to which he had been invited by Owen 
Glendower:…


Twice have I pledg'd my word to thee
To come thy noble face to see;
His promises let every man
Perform as far as e'er he 

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