wild wales-第41节

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Pointing　with　my　finger　to　the　head　of　Snowdon　towering　a　long　way　
from　us　in　the　direction　of　the　east；　I　said　to　Henrietta：…

〃Dacw　Eryri；　yonder　is　Snowdon。　　Let　us　try　to　get　to　the　top。　　The　
Welsh　have　a　proverb：　　'It　is　easy　to　say　yonder　is　Snowdon；　but　
not　so　easy　to　ascend　it。'　　Therefore　I　would　advise　you　to　brace　
up　your　nerves　and　sinews　for　the　attempt。〃

We　then　commenced　the　ascent；　arm…in…arm；　followed　by　the　lad；　I　
singing　at　the　stretch　of　my　voice　a　celebrated　Welsh　stanza；　in　
which　the　proverb　about　Snowdon　is　given；　embellished　with　a　fine　
moral；　and　which　may　thus　be　rendered：…


〃Easy　to　say；　'Behold　Eryri；'
But　difficult　to　reach　its　head；
Easy　for　him　whose　hopes　are　cheery
To　bid　the　wretch　be　comforted。〃


We　were　far　from　being　the　only　visitors　to　the　hill　this　day；　
groups　of　people；　or　single　individuals；　might　be　seen　going　up　or　
descending　the　path　as　far　as　the　eye　could　reach。　　The　path　was　
remarkably　good；　and　for　some　way　the　ascent　was　anything　but　
steep。　　On　our　left　was　the　Vale　of　Llanberis；　and　on　our　other　
side　a　broad　hollow；　or　valley　of　Snowdon；　beyond　which　were　two　
huge　hills　forming　part　of　the　body　of　the　grand　mountain；　the　
lowermost　of　which　our　guide　told　me　was　called　Moel　Elia；　and　the　
uppermost　Moel　y　Cynghorion。　　On　we　went　until　we　had　passed　both　
these　hills；　and　come　to　the　neighbourhood　of　a　great　wall　of　rocks　
constituting　the　upper　region　of　Snowdon；　and　where　the　real　
difficulty　of　the　ascent　commences。　　Feeling　now　rather　out　of　
breath　we　sat　down　on　a　little　knoll　with　our　faces　to　the　south；　
having　a　small　lake　near　us；　on　our　left　hand；　which　lay　dark　and　
deep；　just　under　the　great　wall。

Here　we　sat　for　some　time　resting　and　surveying　the　scene　which　
presented　itself　to　us；　the　principal　object　of　which　was　the　
north…eastern　side　of　the　mighty　Moel　y　Cynghorion；　across　the　wide　
hollow　or　valley；　which　it　overhangs　in　the　shape　of　a　sheer　
precipice　some　five　hundred　feet　in　depth。　　Struck　by　the　name　of　
Moel　y　Cynghorion；　which　in　English　signifies　the　hill　of　the　
counsellors；　I　enquired　of　our　guide　why　the　hill　was　so　called；　
but　as　he　could　afford　me　no　information　on　the　point　I　presumed　
that　it　was　either　called　the　hill　of　the　counsellors　from　the　
Druids　having　held　high　consultation　on　its　top；　in　time　of　old；　or　
from　the　unfortunate　Llewelyn　having　consulted　there　with　his　
chieftains；　whilst　his　army　lay　encamped　in　the　vale　below。

Getting　up　we　set　about　surmounting　what　remained　of　the　ascent。　　
The　path　was　now　winding　and　much　more　steep　than　it　had　hitherto　
been。　　I　was　at　one　time　apprehensive　that　my　gentle　companion　
would　be　obliged　to　give　over　the　attempt；　the　gallant　girl；　
however；　persevered；　and　in　little　more　than　twenty　minutes　from　
the　time　when　we　arose　from　our　resting…place　under　the　crags；　we　
stood；　safe　and　sound；　though　panting；　upon　the　very　top　of　
Snowdon；　the　far…famed　Wyddfa。

The　Wyddfa　is　about　thirty　feet　in　diameter　and　is　surrounded　on　
three　sides　by　a　low　wall。　　In　the　middle　of　it　is　a　rude　cabin；　in　
which　refreshments　are　sold；　and　in　which　a　person　resides　through　
the　year；　though　there　are　few　or　no　visitors　to　the　hill's　top；　
except　during　the　months　of　summer。　　Below　on　all　sides　are　
frightful　precipices　except　on　the　side　of　the　west。　　Towards　the　
east　it　looks　perpendicularly　into　the　dyffrin　or　vale；　nearly　a　
mile　below；　from　which　to　the　gazer　it　is　at　all　times　an　object　of　
admiration；　of　wonder　and　almost　of　fear。

There　we　stood　on　the　Wyddfa；　in　a　cold　bracing　atmosphere；　though　
the　day　was　almost　stiflingly　hot　in　the　regions　from　which　we　had　
ascended。　　There　we　stood　enjoying　a　scene　inexpressibly　grand；　
comprehending　a　considerable　part　of　the　mainland　of　Wales；　the　
whole　of　Anglesey；　a　faint　glimpse　of　part　of　Cumberland；　the　Irish　
Channel；　and　what　might　be　either　a　misty　creation　or　the　shadowy　
outline　of　the　hills　of　Ireland。　　Peaks　and　pinnacles　and　huge　
moels　stood　up　here　and　there；　about　us　and　below　us；　partly　in　
glorious　light；　partly　in　deep　shade。　　Manifold　were　the　objects　
which　we　saw　from　the　brow　of　Snowdon；　but　of　all　the　objects　which　
we　saw；　those　which　filled　us　with　delight　and　admiration；　were　
numerous　lakes　and　lagoons；　which；　like　sheets　of　ice　or　polished　
silver；　lay　reflecting　the　rays　of　the　sun　in　the　deep　valleys　at　
his　feet。

〃Here；〃　said　I　to　Henrietta；　〃you　are　on　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　
which　the　Welsh　consider；　and　perhaps　with　justice；　to　be　the　most　
remarkable　crag　in　the　world；　which　is　mentioned　in　many　of　their　
old　wild　romantic　tales；　and　some　of　the　noblest　of　their　poems；　
amongst　others　in　the　'Day　of　Judgment；'　by　the　illustrious　Goronwy　
Owen；　where　it　is　brought　forward　in　the　following　manner：


〃'Ail　i'r　ar　ael　Eryri；
Cyfartal　hoewal　a　hi。'

〃'The　brow　of　Snowdon　shall　be　levelled　with　the　ground；　and　the　
eddying　waters　shall　murmur　round　it。'


〃You　are　now　on　the　top　crag　of　Snowdon；　generally　termed　Y　Wyddfa；　
（6）　which　means　a　conspicuous　place　or　tumulus；　and　which　is　
generally　in　winter　covered　with　snow；　about　which　snow　there　are　
in　the　Welsh　language　two　curious　englynion　or　stanzas　consisting　
entirely　of　vowels　with　the　exception　of　one　consonant；　namely　the　
letter　R。


〃'Oer　yw'r　Eira　ar　Eryri；　…　o'ryw
Ar　awyr　i　rewi；
Oer　yw'r　ia　ar　riw　'r　ri；
A'r　Eira　oer　yw　'Ryri。

〃'O　Ri　y'Ryri　yw'r　oera；　…　o'r　ar；
Ar　oror　wir　arwa；
O'r　awyr　a　yr　Eira；
O'i　ryw　i　roi　rew　a'r　ia。'

〃'Cold　is　the　snow　on　Snowdon's　brow
It　makes　the　air　so　chill；
For　cold；　I　trow；　there　is　no　snow
Like　that　of　Snowdon's　hill。

〃'A　hill　most　chill　is　Snowdon's　hill；
And　wintry　is　his　brow；
From　Snowdon's　hill　the　breezes　chill
Can　freeze　the　very　snow。'〃


Such　was　the　harangue　which　I　uttered　on　the　top　of　Snowdon；　to　
which　Henrietta　listened　with　attention；　three　or　four　English；　who　
stood　nigh；　with　grinning　scorn；　and　a　Welsh　gentleman　with　
considerable　interest。　　The　latter　coming　forward　shook　me　by　the　
hand　exclaiming　…

〃Wyt　ti　Lydaueg？〃

〃I　am　not　a　Llydauan；〃　said　I；　〃I　wish　I　was；　or　anything　but　what　
I　am；　one　of　a　nation　amongst　whom　any　knowledge　save　what　relates　
to　money…making　and　over…reaching　is　looked　upon　as　a　disgrace。　　I　
am　ashamed　to　say　that　I　am　an　Englishman。〃

I　then　returned　his　shake　of　the　hand；　and　bidding　Henrietta　and　
the　guide　follow　me；　went　into　the　cabin；　where　Henrietta　had　some　
excellent　coffee　and　myself　and　the　guide　a　bottle　of　tolerable　
ale；　very　much　refreshed　we　set　out　on　our　return。

A　little　way　from　the　top；　on　the　right…hand　side　as　you　descend；　
there　is　a　very　steep　path　running　down　in　a　zigzag　manner　to　the　
pass　which　leads　to　Capel　Curig。　　Up　this　path　it　is　indeed　a　task　
of　difficulty　to　ascend　to　the　Wyddfa；　the　one　by　which　we　mounted　
being　comparatively　easy。　　On　Henrietta's　pointing　out　to　me　a　
plant；　which　grew　on　a　crag　by　the　side　of　this　path　some　way　down；　
I　was　about　to　descend　in　order　to　procure　it　for　her；　when　our　
guide　springing　forward　darted　down　the　path　with　the　agility　of　a　
young　goat；　in　less　than　a　minute　returned　with　it　in　his　hand　and　
presented　it　gracefully　to　the　dear　girl；　who　on　examining　it　said　
it　belonged　to　a　species　of　which　she　had　long　been　desirous　of　
possessing　a　specimen。　　Nothing　material　occurred　in　our　descent　to　
Llanberis；　where　my　wife　was　anxiously　awaiting　us。　　The　ascent　and　
descent　occupied　four　hours。　　About　ten　o'clock　at　night　we　again　
found　ourselves　at　Bangor。



CHAPTER　XXX



Gronwy　Owen　…　Struggles　of　Genius　…　The　Stipend。


THE　day　after　our　expedition　to　Snowdon　I　and　my　family　parted；　
they　returning　by　railroad　to　Chester　and　Llangollen　whilst　I　took　
a　trip　into　Anglesey　to　visit　the　birth…place　of　the　great　poet　
Goronwy　Owen；　whose　works　I　had　read　with　enthusiasm　in　my　early　
years。

Goronwy　or　Gronwy　Owen；　was　born　in　the　year　1722；　at　a　place　
called　Llanfair　Mathafarn　Eithaf　in　Anglesey。　　He　was　the　eldest　of　
three　children。　　His　parents　were　peasants　and　so　exceedingly　poor　
that　they　were　unable　to　send　him　to　school。　　Even；　however；　when　
an　unlettered　child　he　gave　indications　that　he　was　visited　by　the　
awen　or　muse。　　At　length　the　celebrated　Lewis　Morris　chancing　to　be　
at　Llanfair　became　acquainted　with　the　boy；　and　struck　with　his　
natural　talents；　determined　that　he　should　have　all　the　benefit　
which　education　could　bestow。　　He　accordingly；　at　his　own　expense　
sent　him　to　school　at　Beaumaris；　where　he　displayed　a　remarkable　
aptitude　for　the　acquisition　of　learning。　　He　subsequently　sent　him　
to　Jesus　College；　Oxford；　and　supported　him　there　whilst　studying　
for　the　church。　　Whilst　at　Jesus；　Gronwy　distinguished　himself　as　a　
Greek　and　Latin　scholar；　and　gave　such　proofs　of　poetical　talent　in　
his　native　language；　that　he　was　looked　upon　by　his　countrymen　of　
that　Welsh　college　as　the　rising　Bard　of　the　age。　　After　completing　
his　collegiate　course　he　returned　to　Wales；　where　he　was　ordained　a　
minister　of　the　Church　in　the　year　1745。　　The　next　seven　years　of　
his　life　were　a　se