wild wales-第31节

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in　these　parts；　before；　however；　I　could　do　so　he　turned　down　a　
road　to　the　right　which　led　towards　a　small　bridge；　and　saying　that　
was　his　way　home；　bade　me　farewell　and　departed。

I　arrived　at　Corwen　which　is　just　ten　miles　from　Llangollen　and　
which　stands　beneath　a　vast　range　of　rocks　at　the　head　of　the　
valley　up　which　I　had　been　coming；　and　which　is　called　Glyndyfrdwy；　
or　the　valley　of　the　Dee　water。　　It　was　now　about　two　o'clock；　and　
feeling　rather　thirsty　I　went　to　an　inn　very　appropriately　called　
the　Owen　Glendower；　being　the　principal　inn　in　the　principal　town　
of　what　was　once　the　domain　of　the　great　Owen。　　Here　I　stopped　for　
about　an　hour　refreshing　myself　and　occasionally　looking　into　a　
newspaper　in　which　was　an　excellent　article　on　the　case　of　poor　
Lieutenant　P。　　I　then　started　for　Cerrig…y…Drudion；　distant　about　
ten　miles；　where　I　proposed　to　pass　the　night。　　Directing　my　course　
to　the　north…west；　I　crossed　a　bridge　over　the　Dee　water　and　then　
proceeded　rapidly　along　the　road；　which　for　some　way　lay　between　
corn…fields；　in　many　of　which　sheaves　were　piled　up；　showing　that　
the　Welsh　harvest　was　begun。　　I　soon　passed　over　a　little　stream；　
the　name　of　which　I　was　told　was　Alowan。　　〃Oh；　what　a　blessing　it　
is　to　be　able　to　speak　Welsh！〃　said　I；　finding　that　not　a　person　to　
whom　I　addressed　myself　had　a　word　of　English　to　bestow　upon　me。　　
After　walking　for　about　five　miles　I　came　to　a　beautiful　but　wild　
country　of　mountain　and　wood　with　here　and　there　a　few　cottages。　　
The　road　at　length　making　an　abrupt　turn　to　the　north；　I　found　
myself　with　a　low　stone　wall　on　my　left；　on　the　verge　of　a　profound　
ravine；　and　a　high　bank　covered　with　trees　on　my　right。　　Projecting　
out　over　the　ravine　was　a　kind　of　looking　place；　protected　by　a　
wall；　forming　a　half…circle；　doubtless　made　by　the　proprietor　of　
the　domain　for　the　use　of　the　admirers　of　scenery。　　There　I　
stationed　myself；　and　for　some　time　enjoyed　one　of　the　wildest　and　
most　beautiful　scenes　imaginable。　　Below　me　was　the　deep　narrow　
glen　or　ravine；　down　which　a　mountain　torrent　roared　and　foamed。　　
Beyond　it　was　a　mountain　rising　steeply；　its　nearer　side；　which　was　
in　deep　shade；　the　sun　having　long　sunk　below　its　top；　hirsute　with　
all　kinds　of　trees；　from　the　highest　pinnacle　down　to　the　torrent's　
brink。　　Cut　on　the　top　surface　of　the　wall；　which　was　of　slate；　and　
therefore　easily　impressible　by　the　knife；　were　several　names；　
doubtless　those　of　tourists；　who　had　gazed　from　the　look…out　on　the　
prospect；　amongst　which　I　observed　in　remarkably　bold　letters　that　
of　T　。　。　。　。

〃Eager　for　immortality；　Mr　T。；〃　said　I；　〃but　you　are　no　H。　M。；　no　
Huw　Morris。〃

Leaving　the　looking　place　I　proceeded；　and；　after　one　or　two　
turnings；　came　to　another；　which　afforded　a　view　if　possible　yet　
more　grand；　beautiful　and　wild；　the　most　prominent　objects　of　which　
were　a　kind　of　devil's　bridge　flung　over　the　deep　glen　and　its　
foaming　water；　and　a　strange…looking　hill　beyond　it；　below　which；　
with　a　wood　on　either　side；　stood　a　white　farm…house　…　sending　from　
a　tall　chimney　a　thin　misty　reek　up　to　the　sky。　　I　crossed　the　
bridge；　which；　however　diabolically　fantastical　it　looked　at　a　
distance；　seemed　when　one　was　upon　it；　capable　of　bearing　any　
weight；　and　soon　found　myself　by　the　farm…house　past　which　the　way　
led。　　An　aged　woman　sat　on　a　stool　by　the　door。

〃A　fine　evening；〃　said　I　in　English。

〃Dim　Saesneg；〃　said　the　aged　woman。

〃Oh；　the　blessing　of　being　able　to　speak　Welsh；〃　said　I；　and　then　
repeated　in　that　language　what　I　had　said　to　her　in　the　other　
tongue。

〃I　daresay；〃　said　the　aged　woman；　〃to　those　who　can　see。〃

〃Can　you　not　see？〃

〃Very　little。　　I　am　almost　blind。〃

〃Can　you　not　see　me？〃

〃I　can　see　something　tall　and　dark　before　me；　that　is　all。〃

〃Can　you　tell　me　the　name　of　the　bridge？〃

〃Pont　y　Glyn　bin　…　the　bridge　of　the　glen　of　trouble。〃

〃And　what　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃

〃Pen　y　bont　…　the　head　of　the　bridge。〃

〃What　is　your　own　name？〃

〃Catherine　Hughes。〃

〃How　old　are　you？〃

〃Fifteen　after　three　twenties。〃

〃I　have　a　mother　three　after　four　twenties；　that　is　eight　years　
older　than　yourself。〃

〃Can　she　see？〃

〃Better　than　I　…　she　can　read　the　smallest　letters。〃

〃May　she　long　be　a　comfort　to　you！〃

〃Thank　you　…　are　you　the　mistress　of　the　house？〃

〃I　am　the　grandmother。〃

〃Are　the　people　in　the　house？〃

〃They　are　not　…　they　are　at　the　chapel。〃

〃And　they　left　you　alone？〃

〃They　left　me　with　my　God。〃

〃Is　the　chapel　far　from　here？〃

〃About　a　mile。〃

〃On　the　road　to　Cerrig　y　Drudion？〃

〃On　the　road　to　Cerrig　y　Drudion。〃

I　bade　her　farewell；　and　pushed　on　…　the　road　was　good；　with　high　
rocky　banks　on　each　side。　　After　walking　about　the　distance　
indicated　by　the　old　lady；　I　reached　a　building；　which　stood　on　the　
right…hand　side　of　the　road；　and　which　I　had　no　doubt　was　the　
chapel；　from　a　half…groaning；　half…singing　noise　which　proceeded　
from　it。　　The　door　being　open；　I　entered；　and　stood　just　within　it；　
bare…headed。　　A　rather　singular　scene　presented　itself。　　Within　a　
large　dimly…lighted　room；　a　number　of　people　were　assembled；　partly　
seated　in　rude　pews；　and　partly　on　benches。　　Beneath　a　kind　of　
altar；　a　few　yards　from　the　door；　stood　three　men　…　the　middlemost　
was　praying　in　Welsh　in　a　singular　kind　of　chant；　with　his　arms　
stretched　out。　　I　could　distinguish　the　words；　〃Jesus　descend　among　
us！　sweet　Jesus　descend　among　us　…　quickly。〃　　He　spoke　very　slowly；　
and　towards　the　end　of　every　sentence　dropped　his　voice；　so　that　
what　he　said　was　anything　but　distinct。　　As　I　stood　within　the　
door；　a　man　dressed　in　coarse　garments　came　up　to　me　from　the　
interior　of　the　building；　and　courteously；　and　in　excellent　Welsh；　
asked　me　to　come　with　him　and　take　a　seat。　　With　equal　courtesy；　
but　far　inferior　Welsh；　I　assured　him　that　I　meant　no　harm；　but　
wished　to　be　permitted　to　remain　near　the　door；　whereupon　with　a　
low　bow　he　left　me。　　When　the　man　had　concluded　his　prayer；　the　
whole　of　the　congregation　began　singing　a　hymn；　many　of　the　voices　
were　gruff　and　discordant；　two　or　three；　however；　were　of　great　
power；　and　some　of　the　female　ones　of　surprising　sweetness。　　At　the　
conclusion　of　the　hymn；　another　of　the　three　men　by　the　altar　began　
to　pray；　just　in　the　same　manner　as　his　comrade　had　done；　and　
seemingly　using　much　the　same　words。　　When　he　had　done；　there　was　
another　hymn；　after　which；　seeing　that　the　congregation　was　about　
to　break　up；　I　bowed　my　head　towards　the　interior　of　the　building；　
and　departed。

Emerging　from　the　hollow　way；　I　found　myself　on　a　moor；　over　which　
the　road　lay　in　the　direction　of　the　north。　　Towards　the　west；　at　
an　immense　distance；　rose　a　range　of　stupendous　hills；　which　I　
subsequently　learned　were　those　of　Snowdon　…　about　ten　minutes'　
walking　brought　me　to　Cerrig　y　Drudion；　a　small　village　near　a　
rocky　elevation；　from　which；　no　doubt；　the　place　takes　its　name；　
which　interpreted；　is　the　Rock　of　Heroes。



CHAPTER　XXIV



Cerrig　y　Drudion　…　The　Landlady　…　Doctor　Jones　…　Coll　Gwynfa　…　The　
Italian　…　Men　of　Como　…　Disappointment　…　Weather　…　Glasses　…　
Southey。


THE　inn　at　Cerrig　y　Drudion　was　called　the　Lion　…　whether　the　
white；　black；　red　or　green　Lion；　I　do　not　know；　though　I　am　certain　
that　it　was　a　lion　of　some　colour　or　other。　　It　seemed　as　decent　
and　respectable　a　hostelry　as　any　traveller　could　wish；　to　refresh　
and　repose　himself　in；　after　a　walk　of　twenty　miles。　　I　entered　a　
well…lighted　passage；　and　from　thence　a　well…lighted　bar　room；　on　
the　right　hand；　in　which　sat　a　stout；　comely；　elderly　lady；　dressed　
in　silks　and　satins；　with　a　cambric　coif　on　her　head；　in　company　
with　a　thin；　elderly　man　with　a　hat　on　his　head；　dressed　in　a　
rather　prim　and　precise　manner。　　〃Madam！〃　said　I；　bowing　to　the　
lady；　〃as　I　suppose　you　are　the　mistress　of　this　establishment；　I　
beg　leave　to　inform　you　that　I　am　an　Englishman；　walking　through　
these　regions；　in　order　fully　to　enjoy　their　beauties　and　wonders。　　
I　have　this　day　come　from　Llangollen；　and　being　somewhat　hungry　and　
fatigued；　hope　I　can　be　accommodated　here　with　a　dinner　and　a　bed。〃

〃Sir！〃　said　the　lady；　getting　up　and　making　me　a　profound　curtsey；　
〃I　am；　as　you　suppose；　the　mistress　of　this　establishment；　and　am　
happy　to　say　that　I　shall　be　able　to　accommodate　you　…　pray　sit　
down；　sir；〃　she　continued；　handing　me　a　chair；　〃you　must　indeed　be　
tired；　for　Llangollen　is　a　great　way　from　here。〃

I　took　the　seat　with　thanks；　and　she　resumed　her　own。

〃Rather　hot　weather　for　walking；　sir！〃　said　the　precise…looking　
gentleman。

〃It　is；〃　said　I；　〃but　as　I　can't　observe　the　country　well　without　
walking　through　it；　I　put　up　with　the　heat。〃

〃You　exhibit　a　philosophic　mind；　sir；〃　said　the　precise…looking　
gentleman　…　〃and　a　philosophic　mind　I　hold　in　reverence。〃

〃Pray；　sir；〃　said　I；　〃have　I　the　honour　of　addressing　a　member　of　
the　medical　profession？〃

〃Sir；〃　said　the　precise…looking　gentleman；　getting　up　and　making　me　
a　bow；　〃your　question　does　honour　to　your　powers　of　discrimination　
…　a　member　of　the　medical　profession　I　am；　thou