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own valley; where you will buy a property; and settle down; and try 
to recover your language; sir; and your health; sir; for you are 
not the person you pretend to be; sir:  I know you very well; and 
shall be happy to work for you。〃

〃Well;〃 said I; 〃if I ever settle down here; I shall be happy to 
employ you。  Farewell。〃

I went back the way I had come; till I reached the little hamlet。  
Seeing a small public…house; I entered it。  A good…looking woman; 
who met me in the passage; ushered me into a neat sanded kitchen; 
handed me a chair and inquired my commands; I sat down; and told 
her to bring me some ale; she brought it; and then seated herself 
by a bench close by the door。

〃Rather a quiet place this;〃 said I; 〃I have seen but two faces 
since I came over the hill; and yours is one。〃

〃Rather too quiet; sir;〃 said the good woman; 〃one would wish to 
have more visitors。〃

〃I suppose;〃 said I; 〃people from Llangollen occasionally come to 
visit you。〃

〃Sometimes; sir; for curiosity's sake; but very rarely … the way is 
very steep。〃

〃Do the Tylwyth Teg ever pay you visits?〃

〃The Tylwyth Teg; sir?〃

〃Yes; the fairies。  Do they never come to have a dance on the green 
sward in this neighbourhood?〃

〃Very rarely; sir; indeed; I do not know how long it is since they 
have been seen。〃

〃You have never seen them?〃

〃I have not; sir; but I believe there are people living who have。〃

〃Are corpse candles ever seen on the bank of that river?〃

〃I have never heard of more than one being seen; sir; and that was 
at a place where a tinker was drowned a few nights after … there 
came down a flood; and the tinker in trying to cross by the usual 
ford was drowned。〃

〃And did the candle prognosticate; I mean foreshow his death?〃

〃It did; sir。  When a person is to die his candle is seen a few 
nights before the time of his death。〃

〃Have you ever seen a corpse candle?〃

〃I have; sir; and as you seem to be a respectable gentleman; I will 
tell you all about it。  When I was a girl I lived with my parents a 
little way from here。  I had a cousin; a very good young man; who 
lived with his parents in the neighbourhood of our house。  He was 
an exemplary young man; sir; and having a considerable gift of 
prayer; was intended for the ministry; but he fell sick; and 
shortly became very ill indeed。  One evening when he was lying in 
this state; as I was returning home from milking; I saw a candle 
proceeding from my cousin's house。  I stood still and looked at it。  
It moved slowly forward for a little way; and then mounted high in 
the air above the wood; which stood not far in front of the house; 
and disappeared。  Just three nights after that my cousin died。〃

〃And you think that what you saw was his corpse candle?〃

〃I do; sir! what else should it be?〃

〃Are deaths prognosticated by any other means than corpse candles?〃

〃They are; sir; by the knockers; and by a supernatural voice heard 
at night。〃

〃Have you ever heard the knockers; or the supernatural voice?〃

〃I have not; sir; but my father and mother; who are now dead; heard 
once a supernatural voice; and knocking。  My mother had a sister 
who was married like herself; and expected to be confined。  Day 
after day; however; passed away; without her confinement taking 
place。  My mother expected every moment to be summoned to her 
assistance; and was so anxious about her that she could not rest at 
night。  One night; as she lay in bed; by the side of her husband; 
between sleeping and waking; she heard of a sudden a horse coming 
stump; stump; up to the door。  Then there was a pause … she 
expected every moment to hear some one cry out; and tell her to 
come to her sister; but she heard no farther sound; neither voice 
nor stump of horse。  She thought she had been deceived; so; without 
awakening her husband; she tried to go to sleep; but sleep she 
could not。  The next night; at about the same time; she again heard 
a horse's feet come stump; stump; up to the door。  She now waked 
her husband and told him to listen。  He did so; and both heard the 
stumping。  Presently; the stumping ceased; and then there was a 
loud 〃Hey!〃 as if somebody wished to wake them。  〃Hey!〃 said my 
father; and they both lay for a minute expecting to hear something 
more; but they heard nothing。  My father then sprang out of bed; 
and looked out of the window; it was bright moonlight; but he saw 
nothing。  The next night; as they lay in bed both asleep; they were 
suddenly aroused by a loud and terrible knocking。  Out sprang my 
father from the bed; flung open the window; and looked out; but 
there was no one at the door。  The next morning; however; a 
messenger arrived with the intelligence that my aunt had had a 
dreadful confinement with twins in the night; and that both she and 
the babes were dead。〃

〃Thank you;〃 said I; and paying for my ale; I returned to 
Llangollen。



CHAPTER XII



A Calvinistic…Methodist … Turn for Saxon … Our Congregation … Pont 
y Cyssyltau … Catherine Lingo。


I HAD inquired of the good woman of the house; in which we lived; 
whether she could not procure a person to accompany me occasionally 
in my walks; who was well acquainted with the strange nooks and 
corners of the country; and who could speak no language but Welsh; 
as I wished to increase my knowledge of colloquial Welsh by having 
a companion who would be obliged; in all he had to say to me; to 
address me in Welsh; and to whom I should perforce have to reply in 
that tongue。  The good lady had told me that there was a tenant of 
hers who lived in one of the cottages; which looked into the 
perllan; who; she believed; would be glad to go with me; and was 
just the kind of man I was in quest of。  The day after I had met 
with the adventures; which I have related in the preceding chapter; 
she informed me that the person in question was awaiting my orders 
in the kitchen。  I told her to let me see him。  He presently made 
his appearance。  He was about forty…five years of age; of middle 
stature; and had a good…natured open countenance。  His dress was 
poor; but clean。

〃Well;〃 said I to him in Welsh; 〃are you the Cumro who can speak no 
Saxon?〃

〃In truth; sir; I am。〃

〃Are you sure that you know no Saxon?〃

〃Sir!  I may know a few words; but I cannot converse in Saxon; nor 
understand a conversation in that tongue。〃

〃Can you read Cumraeg?〃

〃In truth; sir; I can。〃

〃What have you read in it?〃

〃I have read; sir; the Ysgrythyr…lan; till I have it nearly at the 
ends of my fingers。〃

〃Have you read anything else besides the holy Scripture?〃

〃I read the newspaper; sir; when kind friends lend it to me。〃

〃In Cumraeg?〃

〃Yes; sir; in Cumraeg。  I can read Saxon a little but not 
sufficient to understand a Saxon newspaper。〃

〃What newspaper do you read?〃

〃I read; sir; Yr Amserau。〃

〃Is that a good newspaper?〃

〃Very good; sir; it is written by good men。〃

〃Who are they?〃

〃They are our ministers; sir。〃

〃Of what religion are you?〃

〃A Calvinistic Methodist; sir。〃

〃Why are you of the Methodist religion?〃

〃Because it is the true religion; sir。〃

〃You should not be bigoted。  If I had more Cumraeg than I have; I 
would prove to you that the only true religion is that of the 
Lloegrian Church。〃

〃In truth; sir; you could not do that; had you all the Cumraeg in 
Cumru you could not do that。〃

〃What are you by trade?〃

〃I am a gwehydd; sir。〃

〃What do you earn by weaving?〃

〃About five shillings a week; sir。〃

〃Have you a wife?

〃I have; sir。〃

〃Does she earn anything?〃

〃Very seldom; sir; she is a good wife; but is generally sick。〃

〃Have you children?〃

〃I have three; sir。〃

〃Do they earn anything?〃

〃My eldest son; sir; sometimes earns a few pence; the others are 
very small。〃

〃Will you sometimes walk with me; if I pay you?〃

〃I shall be always glad to walk with you; sir; whether you pay me 
or not。〃

〃Do you think it lawful to walk with one of the Lloegrian Church?〃

〃Perhaps; sir; I ought to ask the gentleman of the Lloegrian Church 
whether he thinks it lawful to walk with the poor Methodist 
weaver。〃

〃Well; I think we may venture to walk with one another。  What is 
your name?〃

〃John Jones; sir。〃

〃Jones! Jones!  I was walking with a man of that name the other 
night。〃


〃The man with whom you walked the other night is my brother; sir; 
and what he said to me about you made me wish to walk with you 
also。〃

〃But he spoke very good English。〃

〃My brother had a turn for Saxon; sir; I had not。  Some people have 
a turn for the Saxon; others have not。  I have no Saxon; sir; my 
wife has digon iawn … my two youngest children speak good Saxon; 
sir; my eldest son not a word。〃

〃Well; shall we set out?〃

〃If you please; sir。〃

〃To what place shall we go?〃

〃Shall we go to the Pont y Cyssylltau; sir?〃

〃What is that?〃

〃A mighty bridge; sir; which carries the Camlas over a valley on 
its back。〃

〃Good! let us go and see the bridge of the junction; for that I 
think is the meaning in Saxon of Pont y Cyssylltau。〃

We set out; my guide conducted me along the bank of the Camlas in

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