wild wales-第134节

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


grimy　fellows；　who　said　nothing　to　me　and　to　whom　I　said　nothing　…　
their　discourse　was　in　Welsh　and　English。　　Of　their　Welsh　I　
understood　but　little；　for　it　was　a　strange　corrupt　jargon。　　In　
about　half…an…hour　after　leaving　this　place　I　came　to　the　beginning　
of　a　vast　moor。　　It　was　now　growing　rather　dusk；　and　I　could　see　
blazes　here　and　there；　occasionally　I　heard　horrid　sounds。　　Came　to　
Irvan；　an　enormous　mining…place　with　a　spectral…looking　chapel；　
doubtless　a　Methodist　one。　　The　street　was　crowded　with　rough；　
savage…looking　men。　　〃Is　this　the　way　to　Merthyr　Tydvil？〃　said　I　to　
one。

〃Yes！〃　bawled　the　fellow　at　the　utmost　stretch　of　his　voice。

〃Thank　you！〃　said　I；　taking　off　my　hat　and　passing　on。

Forward　I　went；　up　hill　and　down　dale。　　Night　now　set　in。　　I　passed　
a　grove　of　trees　and　presently　came　to　a　collection　of　small　houses　
at　the　bottom　of　a　little　hollow。　　Hearing　a　step　near　me　I　stopped　
and　said　in　Welsh：　　〃How　far　to　Merthyr　Tydvil？〃

〃Dim　Cumrag；　sir！〃　said　a　voice；　seemingly　that　of　a　man。

〃Good　night！〃　said　I；　and　without　staying　to　put　the　question　in　
English；　I　pushed　on　up　an　ascent；　and　was　presently　amongst　trees。　　
Heard　for　a　long　time　the　hooting　of　an　owl　or　rather　the　frantic　
hollo。　　Appeared　to　pass　by　where　the　bird　had　its　station。　　Toiled　
up　an　acclivity　and　when　on　the　top　stood　still　and　looked　around　
me。　　There　was　a　glow　on　all　sides　in　the　heaven；　except　in　the　
north…east　quarter。　　Striding　on　I　saw　a　cottage　on　my　left　hand；　
and　standing　at　the　door　the　figure　of　a　woman。　　〃How　far　to　
Merthyr？〃　said　I　in　Welsh。

〃Tair　milltir　…　three　miles；　sir。〃

Turning　round　a　corner　at　the　top　of　a　hill　I　saw　blazes　here　and　
there；　and　what　appeared　to　be　a　glowing　mountain　in　the　south…
east。　　I　went　towards　it　down　a　descent　which　continued　for　a　long；　
long　way；　so　great　was　the　light　cast　by　the　blazes　and　that　
wonderful　glowing　object；　that　I　could　distinctly　see　the　little　
stones　upon　the　road。　　After　walking　about　half…an…hour；　always　
going　downwards；　I　saw　a　house　on　my　left　hand　and　heard　a　noise　of　
water　opposite　to　it。　　It　was　a　pistyll。　　I　went　to　it；　drank　
greedily；　and　then　hurried　on。　　More　and　more　blazes；　and　the　
glowing　object　looking　more　terrible　than　ever。　　It　was　now　above　
me　at　some　distance　to　the　left；　and　I　could　see　that　it　was　an　
immense　quantity　of　heated　matter　like　lava；　occupying　the　upper　
and　middle　parts　of　a　hill；　and　descending　here　and　there　almost　to　
the　bottom　in　a　zigzag　and　tortuous　manner。　　Between　me　and　the　
hill　of　the　burning　object　lay　a　deep　ravine。　　After　a　time　I　came　
to　a　house；　against　the　door　of　which　a　man　was　leaning。　　〃What　is　
all　that　burning　stuff　above；　my　friend？〃

〃Dross　from　the　iron　forges；　sir！〃

I　now　perceived　a　valley　below　me　full　of　lights；　and　descending　
reached　houses　and　a　tramway。　　I　had　blazes　now　all　around　me。　　I　
went　through　a　filthy　slough；　over　a　bridge；　and　up　a　street；　from　
which　dirty　lanes　branched　off　on　either　side；　passed　throngs　of　
savage…looking　people　talking　clamorously；　shrank　from　addressing　
any　of　them；　and　finally；　undirected；　found　myself　before　the　
Castle　Inn　at　Merthyr　Tydvil。



CHAPTER　CIV



Iron　and　Coal　…　The　Martyred　Princess　…　Cyfartha　Fawr　…　Diabolical　
Structure。


MERTHYR　TYDVIL　is　situated　in　a　broad　valley　through　which　roll　the　
waters　of　the　Taf。　　It　was　till　late　an　inconsiderable　village；　but　
is　at　present　the　greatest　mining　place　in　Britain；　and　may　be　
called　with　much　propriety　the　capital　of　the　iron　and　coal。

It　bears　the　name　of　Merthyr　Tydvil；　which　signifies　the　Martyr　
Tydvil；　because　in　the　old　time　a　Christian　British　princess　was　
slain　in　the　locality　which　it　occupies。　　Tydvil　was　the　daughter　
of　Brychan；　Prince　of　Brecon；　surnamed　Brycheiniawg；　or　the　
Breconian；　who　flourished　in　the　fifth　century　and　was　a　
contemporary　of　Hengist。　　He　was　a　man　full　of　Christian　zeal；　and　
a　great　preacher　of　the　Gospel；　and　gave　his　children；　of　which　he　
had　many；　both　male　and　female；　by　various　wives；　an　education　
which　he　hoped　would　not　only　make　them　Christians；　but　enable　them　
to　preach　the　Gospel　to　their　countrymen。　　They　proved　themselves　
worthy　of　his　care；　all　of　them　without　one　exception　becoming　
exemplary　Christians；　and　useful　preachers。　　In　his　latter　days　he　
retired　to　a　hermitage　in　Glamorganshire　near　the　Taf；　and　passed　
his　time　in　devotion；　receiving　occasionally　visits　from　his　
children。　　Once；　when　he　and　several　of　them；　amongst　whom　was　
Tydvil；　were　engaged　in　prayer；　a　band　of　heathen　Saxons　rushed　in　
upon　them　and　slew　Tydvil　with　three　of　her　brothers。　　Ever　since　
that　time　the　place　has　borne　the　name　of　Martyr　Tydvil。　（21）

The　Taf；　which　runs　to　the　south　of　Merthyr；　comes　down　from　
Breconshire；　and　enters　the　Bristol　Channel　at　Cardiff；　a　place　the　
name　of　which　in　English　is　the　city　on　the　Taf。　　It　is　one　of　the　
most　beautiful　of　rivers；　but　is　not　navigable　on　account　of　its　
numerous　shallows。　　The　only　service　which　it　renders　to　commerce　
is　feeding　a　canal　which　extends　from　Merthyr　to　Cardiff。　　It　is　
surprising　how　similar　many　of　the　Welsh　rivers　are　in　name：　　Taf；　
Tawey；　Towey；　Teivi；　and　Duffy　differ　but　very　little　in　sound。　　
Taf　and　Teivi　have　both　the　same　meaning；　namely　a　tendency　to　
spread　out。　　The　other　names；　though　probably　expressive　of　the　
properties　or　peculiarities　of　the　streams　to　which　they　
respectively　belong；　I　know　not　how　to　translate。

The　morning　of　the　fourteenth　was　very　fine。　　After　breakfast　I　
went　to　see　the　Cyfartha　Fawr　iron　works；　generally　considered　to　
be　the　great　wonder　of　the　place。　　After　some　slight　demur　I　
obtained　permission　from　the　superintendent　to　inspect　them。　　I　was　
attended　by　an　intelligent　mechanic。　　What　shall　I　say　about　the　
Cyfartha　Fawr？　　I　had　best　say　but　very　little。　　I　saw　enormous　
furnaces。　　I　saw　streams　of　molten　metal。　　I　saw　a　long　ductile　
piece　of　red…hot　iron　being　operated　upon。　　I　saw　millions　of　
sparks　flying　about。　　I　saw　an　immense　wheel　impelled　round　with　
frightful　velocity　by　a　steam…engine　of　two　hundred　and　forty　horse　
power。　　I　heard　all　kinds　of　dreadful　sounds。　　The　general　effect　
was　stunning。　　These　works　belong　to　the　Crawshays；　a　family　
distinguished　by　a　strange　kind　of　eccentricity；　but　also　by　genius　
and　enterprising　spirit；　and　by　such　a　strict　feeling　of　honour　
that　it　is　a　common　saying　that　the　word　of　any　one　of　them　is　as　
good　as　the　bond　of　other　people。

After　seeing　the　Cyfartha　I　roamed　about；　making　general　
observations。　　The　mountain　of　dross　which　had　startled　me　on　the　
preceding　night　with　its　terrific　glare；　and　which　stands　to　the　
north…west　of　the　town；　looked　now　nothing　more　than　an　immense　
dark　heap　of　cinders。　　It　is　only　when　the　shades　of　night　have　
settled　down　that　the　fire　within　manifests　itself；　making　the　hill　
appear　an　immense　glowing　mass。　　All　the　hills　around　the　town；　
some　of　which　are　very　high；　have　a　scorched　and　blackened　look。　　
An　old　Anglesea　bard；　rather　given　to　bombast；　wishing　to　extol　the　
abundant　cheer　of　his　native　isle　said：　　〃The　hills　of　Ireland　are　
blackened　by　the　smoke　from　the　kitchens　of　Mona。〃　　With　much　more　
propriety　might　a　bard　of　the　banks　of　the　Taf；　who　should　wish　to　
apologise　for　the　rather　smutty　appearance　of　his　native　vale　
exclaim：　　〃The　hills　around　the　Taf　once　so　green　are　blackened　by　
the　smoke　from　the　chimneys　of　Merthyr。〃　　The　town　is　large　and　
populous。　　The　inhabitants　for　the　most　part　are　Welsh；　and　Welsh　
is　the　language　generally　spoken；　though　all　have　some　knowledge　of　
English。　　The　houses　are　in　general　low　and　mean；　and　built　of　
rough　grey　stone。　　Merthyr；　however；　can　show　several　remarkable　
edifices；　though　of　a　gloomy　horrid　Satanic　character。　　There　is　
the　hall　of　the　Iron；　with　its　arches；　from　whence　proceeds　
incessantly　a　thundering　noise　of　hammers。　　Then　there　is　an　
edifice　at　the　foot　of　a　mountain；　half　way　up　the　side　of　which　is　
a　blasted　forest　and　on　the　top　an　enormous　crag。　　A　truly　
wonderful　edifice　it　is；　such　as　Bos　would　have　imagined　had　he　
wanted　to　paint　the　palace　of　Satan。　　There　it　stands：　　a　house　of　
reddish　brick　with　a　slate　roof　…　four　horrid　black　towers　behind；　
two　of　them　belching　forth　smoke　and　flame　from　their　tops　…　holes　
like　pigeon　holes　here　and　there　…　two　immense　white　chimneys　
standing　by　themselves。　　What　edifice　can　that　be　of　such　strange　
mad　details？　I　ought　to　have　put　that　question　to　some　one　in　
Tydvil；　but　did　not；　though　I　stood　staring　at　the　diabolical　
structure　with　my　mouth　open。　　It　is　of　no　use　putting　the　question　
to　myself　here。

After　strolling　about　for　some　two　hours　with　my　hands　in　my　
pockets；　I　returned　to　my　inn；　called　for　a　glass　of　ale；　paid　my　
reckoning；　flung　my　satchel　over　my　shoulder；　and　departed。



CHAPTER　CV



Start　for　Caerfili　…　Johanna　Colgan　…　Alms…Giving　…　The　Monstrous　
Female　…　The　Evil　Prayer　…　The　Next　Day　…　The　Aifrionn　…　Unclean　
Spirits　…　Expectation　…　Wreaking　Vengeance　…　A　decent　Alms。


I　LEFT　Merthyr　about　twelve