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第113节

wild wales-第113节

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〃This does not seem to be a country of much society;〃 said I to my 
guide。

〃It is not; sir。  The nearest house is the inn we came from; which 
is now three miles behind us。  Straight before you there is not one 
for at least ten; and on either side it is an anialwch to a vast 
distance。  Plunlummon is not a sociable country; sir; nothing to be 
found in it; but here and there a few sheep or a shepherd。〃

〃Now;〃 said I; descending from the carn; 〃we will proceed to the 
sources of the rivers。〃

〃The ffynnon of the Rheidol is not far off;〃 said the guide; 〃it is 
just below the hill。〃

We descended the western side of the hill for some way; at length; 
coming to a very craggy and precipitous place; my guide stopped; 
and pointing with his finger into the valley below; said:…

〃There; sir; if you look down you can see the source of the 
Rheidol。〃

I looked down; and saw far below what appeared to be part of a 
small sheet of water。

〃And that is the source of the Rheidol?〃 said I。

〃Yes; sir;〃 said my guide; 〃that is the ffynnon of the Rheidol。〃

〃Well;〃 said I; 〃is there no getting to it?〃

〃Oh yes! but the path; sir; as you see; is rather steep and 
dangerous。〃

〃Never mind;〃 said I。  〃Let us try it。〃

〃Isn't seeing the fountain sufficient for you; sir?〃

〃By no means;〃 said I。  〃It is not only necessary for me to see the 
sources of the rivers; but to drink of them; in order that in after 
times I may be able to harangue about them with a tone of 
confidence and authority。〃

〃Then follow me; sir; but please to take care; for this path is 
more fit for sheep or shepherds than gentlefolk。〃

And a truly bad path I found it; so bad indeed that before I had 
descended twenty yards I almost repented having ventured。  I had a 
capital guide; however; who went before and told me where to plant 
my steps。  There was one particularly bad part; being little better 
than a sheer precipice; but even here I got down in safety with the 
assistance of my guide; and a minute afterwards found myself at the 
source of the Rheidol。

The source of the Rheidol is a small beautiful lake; about a 
quarter of a mile in length。  It is overhung on the east and north 
by frightful crags; from which it is fed by a number of small 
rills。  The water is of the deepest blue; and of very considerable 
depth。  The banks; except to the north and east; slope gently down; 
and are clad with soft and beautiful moss。  The river; of which it 
is the head; emerges at the south…western side; and brawls away in 
the shape of a considerable brook; amidst moss; and rushes down a 
wild glen tending to the south。  To the west the prospect is 
bounded; at a slight distance; by high; swelling ground。  If few 
rivers have a more wild and wondrous channel than the Rheidol; 
fewer still have a more beautiful and romantic source。

After kneeling down and drinking freely of the lake I said:

〃Now; where are we to go to next?〃

〃The nearest ffynnon to that of the Rheidol; sir; is the ffynnon of 
the Severn。〃

〃Very well;〃 said I; 〃let us now go and see the ffynnon of the 
Severn!〃

I followed my guide over a hill to the north…west into a valley; at 
the farther end of which I saw a brook streaming apparently to the 
south; where was an outlet。

〃That brook;〃 said the guide; 〃is the young Severn。〃  The brook 
came from round the side of a very lofty rock; singularly 
variegated; black and white; the northern summit presenting 
something of the appearance of the head of a horse。  Passing round 
this crag we came to a fountain surrounded with rushes; out of 
which the brook; now exceedingly small; came murmuring。

〃The crag above;〃 said my guide; 〃is called Crag y Cefyl; or the 
Rock of the Horse; and this spring at its foot is generally called 
the ffynnon of the Hafren。  However; drink not of it; master; for 
the ffynnon of the Hafren is higher up the nant。  Follow me; and I 
will presently show you the real ffynnon of the Hafren。〃

I followed him up a narrow and very steep dingle。  Presently we 
came to some beautiful little pools of water in the turf; which was 
here remarkably green。

〃These are very pretty pools; an't they; master?〃 said my 
companion。  〃Now; if I was a false guide I might bid you stoop and 
drink; saying that these were the sources of the Severn; but I am a 
true cyfarwydd; and therefore tell you not to drink; for these 
pools are not the sources of the Hafren; no more than the spring 
below。  The ffynnon of the Severn is higher up the nant。  Don't 
fret; however; but follow me; and we shall be there in a minute。〃

So I did as he bade me; following him without fretting higher up 
the nant。  Just at the top he halted and said:  〃Now; master; I 
have conducted you to the source of the Severn。  I have considered 
the matter deeply; and have come to the conclusion that here; and 
here only; is the true source。  Therefore stoop down and drink; in 
full confidence that you are taking possession of the Holy Severn。〃

The source of the Severn is a little pool of water some twenty 
inches long; six wide; and about three deep。  It is covered at the 
bottom with small stones; from between which the water gushes up。  
It is on the left…hand side of the nant; as you ascend; close by 
the very top。  An unsightly heap of black turf…earth stands right 
above it to the north。  Turf…heaps; both large and small; are in 
abundance in the vicinity。

After taking possession of the Severn by drinking at its source; 
rather a shabby source for so noble a stream; I said; 〃Now let us 
go to the fountain of the Wye。〃

〃A quarter of an hour will take us to it; your honour;〃 said the 
guide; leading the way。

The source of the Wye; which is a little pool; not much larger than 
that which constitutes the fountain of the Severn; stands near the 
top of a grassy hill which forms part of the Great Plynlimmon。  The 
stream after leaving its source runs down the hill towards the 
east; and then takes a turn to the south。  The Mountains of the 
Severn and the Wye are in close proximity to each other。  That of 
the Rheidol stands somewhat apart front both; as if; proud of its 
own beauty; it disdained the other two for their homeliness。  All 
three are contained within the compass of a mile。

〃And now; I suppose; sir; that our work is done; and we may go back 
to where we came from;〃 said my guide; as I stood on the grassy 
hill after drinking copiously of the fountain of the Wye。

〃We may;〃 said I; 〃but before we do I must repeat some lines made 
by a man who visited these sources; and experienced the hospitality 
of a chieftain in this neighbourhood four hundred years ago。〃  Then 
taking off my hat; I lifted up my voice and sang:…


〃From high Plynlimmon's shaggy side
Three streams in three directions glide;
To thousands at their mouths who tarry
Honey; gold and mead they carry。
Flow also from Plynlimmon high
Three streams of generosity;
The first; a noble stream indeed;
Like rills of Mona runs with mead;
The second bears from vineyards thick
Wine to the feeble and the sick;
The third; till time shall be no more;
Mingled with gold shall silver pour。〃


〃Nice pennillion; sir; I daresay;〃 said my guide; 〃provided a 
person could understand them。  What's meant by all this mead; wine; 
gold; and silver?〃

〃Why;〃 said I; 〃the bard meant to say that Plynlimmon; by means of 
its three channels; sends blessings and wealth in three different 
directions to distant places; and that the person whom he came to 
visit; and who lived on Plynlimmon; distributed his bounty in three 
different ways; giving mead to thousands at his banquets; wine from 
the vineyards of Gascony to the sick and feeble of the 
neighbourhood; and gold and silver to those who were willing to be 
tipped; amongst whom no doubt was himself; as poets have never been 
above receiving a present。〃

〃Nor above asking for one; your honour; there's a prydydd in this 
neighbourhood who will never lose a shilling for want of asking for 
it。  Now; sir; have the kindness to tell me the name of the man who 
made those pennillion。〃

〃Lewis Glyn Cothi;〃 said I; 〃at least; it was he who made the 
pennillion from which those verses are translated。〃

〃And what was the name of the gentleman whom he came to visit?〃

〃His name;〃 said I; 〃was Dafydd ab Thomas Vychan。〃

〃And where did he live?〃

〃Why; I believe; he lived at the castle; which you told me once 
stood on the spot which you pointed out as we came up。  At any 
rate; he lived somewhere upon Plynlimmon。〃

〃I wish there was some rich gentleman at present living on 
Plynlimmon;〃 said my guide; 〃one of that sort is much wanted。〃

〃You can't have everything at the same time;〃 said I; 〃formerly you 
had a chieftain who gave away wine and mead; and occasionally a bit 
of gold or silver; but then no travellers and tourists came to see 
the wonders of the hills; for at that time nobody cared anything 
about hills; at present you have no chieftain; but plenty of 
visitors; who come to see the hills and the sources; and scatter 
plenty of gold about the neighbourhood。〃

We now bent our steps homeward; bearing slight

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