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第101节

wild wales-第101节

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Asking about his dwelling fair;
Tell him it under the bank doth lie;
And its brow the mark of the coal doth bear。〃


Dafydd remained confined till the fall of Glendower; shortly after 
which event he followed Henry the Fifth to France; where he 
achieved that glory which will for ever bloom; dying; covered with 
wounds; on the field of Agincourt after saving the life of the 
king; to whom in the dreadest and most critical moment of the fight 
he stuck closer than a brother; not from any abstract feeling of 
loyalty; but from the consideration that King Henry the Fifth was 
the son of King Henry the Fourth; who was the son of the man who 
received and comforted him in his house; after his own countrymen 
had hunted him from house and land。

Connected with Machynlleth is a name not so widely celebrated as 
those of Glendower and Dafydd Gam; but well known to and cherished 
by the lovers of Welsh song。  It is that of Lawdden; a Welsh bard 
in holy orders; who officiated as priest at Machynlleth from 1440 
to 1460。  But though Machynlleth was his place of residence for 
many years; it was not the place of his birth; Lychwr in 
Carmarthenshire being the spot where he first saw the light。  He 
was an excellent poet; and displayed in his compositions such 
elegance of language; and such a knowledge of prosody; that it was 
customary; long after his death; when any masterpiece of vocal song 
or eloquence was produced; to say that it bore the traces of 
Lawdden's hatchet。  At the request of Griffith ap Nicholas; a 
powerful chieftain of South Wales; and a great patron of the Muse; 
he drew up a statute relating to poets and poetry; and at the great 
Eisteddfodd; or poetical congress; held at Carmarthen in the year 
1450; under the auspices of Griffith; which was attended by the 
most celebrated bards of the north and south; he officiated as 
judge; in conjunction with the chieftain; upon the compositions of 
the bards who competed for the prize … a little silver chair。  Not 
without reason; therefore; do the inhabitants of Machynlleth 
consider the residence of such a man within their walls; though at 
a far by…gone period; as conferring a lustre on their town; and 
Lewis Meredith has probability on his side when; in his pretty poem 
on Glen Dyfi; he says:…


〃Whilst fair Machynlleth decks thy quiet plain;
Conjoined with it shall Lawdden's name remain。〃



CHAPTER LXXX



The Old Ostler … Directions … Church of England Man … The Deep 
Dingle … The Two Women … The Cutty Pipe … Waen y Bwlch  … The Deaf 
and Dumb … The Glazed Hat。


I ROSE on the morning of the 2nd of November intending to proceed 
to the Devil's Bridge; where I proposed halting a day or two; in 
order that I might have an opportunity of surveying the far…famed 
scenery of that locality。  After paying my bill I went into the 
yard to my friend the old ostler; to make inquiries with respect to 
the road。

〃What kind of road;〃 said I; 〃is it to the Devil's Bridge?〃

〃There are two roads; sir; to the Pont y Gwr Drwg; which do you 
mean to take?〃

〃Why do you call the Devil's Bridge the Pont y Gwr Drwg; or the 
bridge of the evil man?〃

〃That we may not bring a certain gentleman upon us; sir; who 
doesn't like to have his name taken in vain。〃

〃Is their much difference between the roads?〃

〃A great deal; sir; one is over the hills; and the other round by 
the valleys。〃

〃Which is the shortest?〃

〃Oh; that over the hills; sir; it is about twenty miles from here 
to the Pont y Gwr Drwg over the hills; but more than twice that by 
the valleys。〃

〃Well; I suppose you would advise me to go by the hills?〃

〃Certainly; sir … that is; if you wish to break your neck; or to 
sink in a bog; or to lose your way; or perhaps; if night comes on; 
to meet the Gwr Drwg himself taking a stroll。  But to talk soberly。  
The way over the hills is an awful road; and; indeed; for the 
greater part is no road at all。〃

〃Well; I shall go by it。  Can't you give me some directions?〃

〃I'll do my best; sir; but I tell you again that the road is a 
horrible one; and very hard to find。〃

He then went with me to the gate of the inn; where he began to give 
me directions; pointing to the south; and mentioning some names of 
places through which I must pass; amongst which were Waen y Bwlch 
and Long Bones。  At length he mentioned Pont Erwyd; and said:  〃If 
you can but get there; you are all right; for from thence there is 
a very fair road to the bridge of the evil man; though I dare say 
if you get to Pont Erwyd … and I wish you may get there … you will 
have had enough of it and will stay there for the night; more 
especially as there is a good inn。〃

Leaving Machynlleth; I ascended a steep hill which rises to the 
south of it。  From the top of this hill there is a fine view of the 
town; the river; and the whole valley of the Dyfi。  After stopping 
for a few minutes to enjoy the prospect I went on。  The road at 
first was exceedingly good; though up and down; and making frequent 
turnings。  The scenery was beautiful to a degree:  lofty hills were 
on either side; clothed most luxuriantly with trees of various 
kinds; but principally oaks。  〃This is really very pleasant;〃 said 
I; 〃but I suppose it is too good to last long。〃  However; I went on 
for a considerable way; the road neither deteriorating nor the 
scenery decreasing in beauty。  〃Surely I can't be in the right 
road;〃 said I; 〃I wish I had an opportunity of asking。〃  Presently 
seeing an old man working with a spade in a field near a gate; I 
stopped and said in Welsh:  〃Am I in the road to the Pont y Gwr 
Drwg?〃  The old man looked at me for a moment; then shouldering his 
spade he came up to the gate; and said in English:  〃In truth; sir; 
you are。〃

〃I was told that the road thither was a very bad one;〃 said I; 〃but 
this is quite the contrary。〃

〃This road does not go much farther; sir;〃 said he; 〃it was made to 
accommodate grand folks who live about here。〃

〃You speak very good English;〃 said I; 〃where did you get it?〃

He looked pleased; and said that in his youth he had lived some 
years in England。

〃Can you read?〃 said I。

〃Oh yes;〃 said he; 〃both Welsh and English。〃

〃What have you read in Welsh?〃 said I。

〃The Bible and Twm O'r Nant。〃

〃What pieces of Twm O'r Nant have you read?〃

〃I have read two of his interludes and his life。〃

〃And which do you like best … his life or his interludes?〃

〃Oh; I like his life best。〃

〃And what part of his life do you like best?〃

〃Oh; I like that part best where he gets the ship into the water at 
Abermarlais。〃

〃You have a good judgment;〃 said I; 〃his life is better than his 
interludes; and the best part of his life is where he describes his 
getting the ship into the water。  But do the Methodists about here 
in general read Twm O'r Nant?〃

〃I don't know;〃 said be; 〃I am no Methodist。〃

〃Do you belong to the Church?〃

〃I do。〃

〃And why do you belong to the Church?〃

〃Because I believe it is the best religion to get to heaven by。〃

〃I am much of your opinion;〃 said I。  〃Are there many Church people 
about here?〃

〃Not many;〃 said he; 〃but more than when I was young。〃

〃How old are you?〃

〃Sixty…nine。〃

〃You are not very old;〃 said I。

〃An't I?  I only want one year of fulfilling my proper time on 
earth。〃

〃You take things very easily;〃 said I。

〃Not so very easily; sir; I have often my quakings and fears; but 
then I read my Bible; say my prayers; and find hope and comfort。〃

〃I really am very glad to have seen you;〃 said I; 〃and now can you 
tell me the way to the bridge?〃

〃Not exactly; sir; for I have never been there; but you must follow 
this road some way farther; and then bear away to the right along 
yon hill〃 … and he pointed to a distant mountain。

I thanked him; and proceeded on my way。  I passed through a deep 
dingle; and shortly afterwards came to the termination of the road; 
remembering; however; the directions of the old man;; I bore away 
to the right; making for the distant mountain。  My course lay now 
over very broken ground where there was no path; at least that I 
could perceive。  I wandered on for some time; at length on turning 
round a bluff I saw a lad tending a small herd of bullocks。  〃Am I 
in the road;〃 said I; 〃to the Pont y Gwr Drwg?〃

〃Nis gwn!  I don't know;〃 said he sullenly。  〃I am a hired servant; 
and have only been here a little time。〃

〃Where's the house;〃 said I; 〃where you serve?〃

But as he made no answer I left him。  Some way farther on I saw a 
house on my left; a little way down the side of a deep dingle which 
was partly overhung with trees; and at the bottom of which a brook 
murmured。  Descending a steep path; I knocked at the door。  After a 
little time it was opened; and two women appeared; one behind the 
other。  The first was about sixty; she was very powerfully made; 
had stern grey eyes and harsh features; and was dressed in the 
ancient Welsh female fashion; having a kind of riding…habit of blue 
and a high conical hat like that of the Tyrol。  The other seemed 
about twenty years younger; she had dark features; was dressed like 
the o

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