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rest upon: the ten thousand wax…candles; for instance; in their

numberless twinkling chandeliers; the raw tranchant colors of the

new banners; wreaths; bees; N's; and other emblems dotting the place

all over; and incessantly puzzling; or rather BOTHERING the beholder。



High overhead; in a sort of mist; with the glare of their original

colors worn down by dust and time; hung long rows of dim ghostly…

looking standards; captured in old days from the enemy。  They were;

I thought; the best and most solemn part of the show。



To suppose that the people were bound to be solemn during the

ceremony is to exact from them something quite needless and

unnatural。  The very fact of a squeeze dissipates all solemnity。

One great crowd is always; as I imagine; pretty much like another。

In the course of the last few years I have seen three: that

attending the coronation of our present sovereign; that which went

to see Courvoisier hanged; and this which witnessed the Napoleon

ceremony。  The people so assembled for hours together are jocular

rather than solemn; seeking to pass away the weary time with the

best amusements that will offer。  There was; to be sure; in all the

scenes above alluded to; just one momentone particular moment

when the universal people feels a shock and is for that second

serious。



But except for that second of time; I declare I saw no seriousness

here beyond that of ennui。  The church began to fill with personages

of all ranks and conditions。  First; opposite our seats came a

company of fat grenadiers of the National Guard; who presently; at

the word of command; put their muskets down against benches and

wainscots; until the arrival of the procession。  For seven hours

these men formed the object of the most anxious solicitude of all

the ladies and gentlemen seated on our benches: they began to stamp

their feet; for the cold was atrocious; and we were frozen where we

sat。  Some of them fell to blowing their fingers; one executed a

kind of dance; such as one sees often here in cold weatherthe

individual jumps repeatedly upon one leg; and kicks out the other

violently; meanwhile his hands are flapping across his chest。  Some

fellows opened their cartouche…boxes; and from them drew eatables of

various kinds。  You can't think how anxious we were to know the

qualities of the same。  〃Tiens; ce gros qui mange une cuisse de

volaille!〃〃Il a du jambon; celui…la。〃  〃I should like some; too;〃

growls an Englishman; 〃for I hadn't a morsel of breakfast;〃 and so

on。  This is the way; my dear; that we see Napoleon buried。



Did you ever see a chicken escape from clown in a pantomime; and hop

over into the pit; or amongst the fiddlers? and have you not seen

the shrieks of enthusiastic laughter that the wondrous incident

occasions?  We had our chicken; of course: there never was a public

crowd without one。  A poor unhappy woman in a greasy plaid cloak;

with a battered rose…colored plush bonnet; was seen taking her place

among the stalls allotted to the grandees。  〃Voyez donc l'Anglaise;〃

said everybody; and it was too true。  You could swear that the

wretch was an Englishwoman: a bonnet was never made or worn so in

any other country。  Half an hour's delightful amusement did this

lady give us all。  She was whisked from seat to seat by the

huissiers; and at every change of place woke a peal of laughter。  I

was glad; however; at the end of the day to see the old pink bonnet

over a very comfortable seat; which somebody had not claimed and she

had kept。



Are not these remarkable incidents?  The next wonder we saw was the

arrival of a set of tottering old Invalids; who took their places

under us with drawn sabres。  Then came a superb drum…major; a

handsome smiling good…humored giant of a man; his breeches

astonishingly embroidered with silver lace。  Him a dozen little

drummer…boys followed〃the little darlings!〃 all the ladies cried

out in a breath: they were indeed pretty little fellows; and came

and stood close under us: the huge drum…major smiled over his little

red…capped flock; and for many hours in the most perfect contentment

twiddled his moustaches and played with the tassels of his cane。



Now the company began to arrive thicker and thicker。  A whole covey

of Conseillers…d'Etat came in; in blue coats; embroidered with blue

silk; then came a crowd of lawyers in toques and caps; among whom

were sundry venerable Judges in scarlet; purple velvet; and ermine

a kind of Bajazet costume。  Look there! there is the Turkish

Ambassador in his red cap; turning his solemn brown face about and

looking preternaturally wise。  The Deputies walk in in a body。

Guizot is not there: he passed by just now in full ministerial

costume。  Presently little Thiers saunters back: what a clear; broad

sharp…eyed face the fellow has; with his gray hair cut down so

demure!  A servant passes; pushing through the crowd a shabby wheel…

chair。  It has just brought old Moncey the Governor of the Invalids;

the honest old man who defended Paris so stoutly in 1814。  He has

been very ill; and is worn down almost by infirmities: but in his

illness he was perpetually asking; 〃Doctor; shall I live till the

15th?  Give me till then; and I die contented。〃  One can't help

believing that the old man's wish is honest; however one may doubt

the piety of another illustrious Marshal; who once carried a candle

before Charles X。 in a procession; and has been this morning to

Neuilly to kneel and pray at the foot of Napoleon's coffin。  He

might have said his prayers at home; to be sure; but don't let us

ask too much: that kind of reserve is not a Frenchman's

characteristic。



Bangbang!  At about half…past two a dull sound of cannonading was

heard without the church; and signals took place between the

Commandant of the Invalids; of the National Guards; and the big

drum…major。  Looking to these troops (the fat Nationals were

shuffling into line again) the two Commandants tittered; as nearly

as I could catch them; the following words



〃HARRUM HUMP!〃



At once all the National bayonets were on the present; and the

sabres of the old Invalids up。  The big drum…major looked round at

the children; who began very slowly and solemnly on their drums;

Rub…dub…dubrub…dub…dub(count two between each)rub…dub…dub; and

a great procession of priests came down from the altar。



First; there was a tall handsome cross…bearer; bearing a long gold

cross; of which the front was turned towards his grace the

Archbishop。  Then came a double row of about sixteen incense…boys;

dressed in white surplices: the first boy; about six years old; the

last with whiskers and of the height of a man。  Then followed a

regiment of priests in black tippets and white gowns: they had black

hoods; like the moon when she is at her third quarter; wherewith

those who were bald (many were; and fat too) covered themselves。

All the reverend men held their heads meekly down; and affected to

be reading in their breviaries。



After the Priests came some Bishops of the neighboring districts; in

purple; with crosses sparkling on their episcopal bosoms。



Then came; after more priests; a set of men whom I have never seen

beforea kind of ghostly heralds; young and handsome men; some of

them in stiff tabards of black and silver; their eyes to the ground;

their hands placed at right angles with their chests。



Then came two gentlemen bearing remarkable tall candlesticks; with

candles of corresponding size。  One was burning brightly; but the

wind (that chartered libertine) had blown out the other; which

nevertheless kept its place in the processionI wondered to myself

whether the reverend gentleman who carried the extinguished candle;

felt disgusted; humiliated; mortifiedperfectly conscious that the

eyes of many thousands of people were bent upon that bit of

refractory wax。  We all of us looked at it with intense interest。



Another cross…bearer; behind whom came a gentleman carrying an

instrument like a bedroom candlestick。



His Grandeur Monseigneur Affre; Archbishop of Paris: he was in black

and white; his eyes were cast to the earth; his hands were together

at right angles from his chest: on his hands were black gloves; and

on the black gloves sparkled the sacred episcopalwhat do I say?

archiepiscopal ring。  On his head was the mitre。  It is unlike the

godly coronet that figures upon the coach…panels of our own Right

Reverend Bench。  The Archbishop's mitre may be about a yard high:

formed within probably of consecrated pasteboard; it is without

covered by a sort of watered silk of white and silver。  On the two

peaks at the top of the mitre are two very little spangled tassels;

that frisk and twinkle about in a very agreeable manner。



Monseigneur stood opposite to us for some time; when I had the

opportunity to note the above remarkable phenomena。  He stood

opposite me for some time; keeping his eyes steadily on the grou

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